





W'/ V^V V^>V v^v %^^> ..., V s 




s*v 



• ♦♦■ 






*9 *L^Lr» *> 



' »i*^« ^ .1.9 .' 







,.. V^V %'^V V^V V^V V^*> 



ADVKRTISEMRNT. 



Knowles Loom Works 

WORCESTER, MASS., U. S. A. 

Hue Awards 




AT THE 



World's 

Columbian 

Exposition. 



Makers 



fLPower Looms of Every Description, 
Also Jacquards and Dobbies. 



The extraordinary demand for our 

Rise aqd Fall $ingle-Lever Jacquards 

is sufficient evidence that they are superior to all others. 
They can be operated at a Higher Rate of Speed than 
any other (Rotary not excepted). 

We manufacture Jacquards for 
every class of Weaving for which such ^5 








machines can be used. 

The plGjjOrd UOUUlj is too well known to need more 
than mere reference, over 16,000 being in use. It is adapted for 
U Lenos, Double Weaves, Towels, or any class of goods requiring 
fancy effects, not sufficiently elaborate to require Jacquards. 
SEND FOR CATALOGUES AND PRICES OF ALL OUR MACHINERY. 



THE "KNOWLES LOOM" FOR FOREIGN COUNTRIES 

uBuiitbyHHTrHiN^OM HOLLINQWORTH & CO., 

DOBCROSS, ENCLHND. 
WE ALSO HAVE BRANCH WORKS LOCATED AT PROVIDENCE, R. I., U. S. A. 

(See also Outside Back Cover.) 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



of every description. 



Silk Yarns 

In Gray or absolutely Fast ColOfS, 

WARRANTED TO STAND FULLING. 

In Skein or Chain Warps and on Spools, Cops, Cones and 

Shuttle Bobbins. 

S. Friedberger, 

435 Bourse Building, Philadelphia. 

LONG DISTANCE TELEPHONE CONNECTION. CORRESPONDENCE SOLICITED. 



ESTABLISHED 1831. 



CURTIS & MARBLE MACHINE COMPANY, 

MANUFACTURERS OF 

Wool Burring, Picking and Mixing Machinery. 

Cloth Finishing Machinery, 

For Cotton, Woolen, Worsted, Plush Goods, Etc. 
SHEARINC MACHINES A SPECIALTY. 

Office and Works, Webster Square, WORCESTER, MASS. 



WOOL PREPARING MACHINERY. 

Shake Willows or Dusters ; Fearnoughts or Tenter Hook Pickers ; Goddard Burr Pickers ; Steel Ring 
and Solid Packing Burring Machines, with Steel Ring Feed Rolls, for Woolen and Worsted Cards. 

FINISHING MACHINERY. 

Shearing Machines for all kinds of Cotton, Woolen and Worsted Goods, Plushes, Carpets, Rugs, 
Mats, etc ; Up and Down, Double Acting, Steam, and Gessner Gigs ; Gessner Rolling Teasel Gigs ; Endless 
Felt Gigs ; Wire Nappers for Satinets, Blankets, Knit Fleecings, etc.; Single and Double Acting Brushing 
Machines ; Cotton Brushing Machines ; Gas Singeing Machines ; Steam Finishing Machines ; Stretching 
and Rolling Machines ; Patent Doubling and Tacking Machines ; Gessner Rotary Steam Cloth Press ; 
Reversible Flock Cutters ; Flock Renovators ; Rag Cutters ; Cloth Winders and Measurers ; Cloth Folding 
and Measuring Machines ; Shear Grinders ; Railway Sewing Machines, etc., etc. 

Machine Brushes of all kinds made and repaired. 

Particular attention paid to repairing and grinding Shear Blades and Burr Cylinders. 

SEND FOR CATALOGUE. 



ADVERTISEMENT 



JAMES BARKER, cotton and woolen machinery 

S. E. Cor. 2d and Somerset Sts., Philadelphia, Pa. 

Double Apron Condenser 

. Increases production 10-40%. 
. Improves quality. 
. Adaptable to fine or coarse numbers 
of yarn. 
Equipped with perfect aprons, plain 

or "pocket." 
Now working on every grade of 
stock carded. 
6. Necessary to profitable yarn making. 

Fast Running Non-Oil- 
Leaking Doffing Comb 

1. For cotton, woolen and 
worsted cards. 

2. Can be run at highest speed. 

3. Working parts always in oil. 

4. Adjusted by single screw. 

5. Durable and cheap. 




3t» &,& sag. 




New Automatic Spur-Gear Cutter 



1. Compact and sturdy construction. 

2. Driven by one belt. 

3. Speed limited only by strength of cutter. 

4. Minimum amount of over-run. 

5. Cutter table returns at rate of 90 inches a minute. 

6. Perfect spacer, steady cutter. 

7. Entirely automatic. 



Moulders' Improved Flask 

1. Prevents shifted or shotover castings. 

2. Saves time and labor. 

3. Increases production. 

4. Perfect lift, less patching. 

5. All parts renewable. 

6. More work done by hinge lift. 

7. Positive pin guide. 

8. No fins — less work in cleaning shed. 



JV 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



Gris wold Wonted Co. 



LIMITED. 



Worsted Yarns 



a "-"T"" w orsted Y arns ^ 



Spun Silk Yarns 



SUITABLE FOR 



HOSIERY, UNDERWEAR, UPHOLSTERY FABRICS, 
WARPS FOR PLUSHES AND DRESS GOODS ON 
CONES OR SPOOLS 

Cassimere Silk yarns-SfL£±l_£^ 

= - Office, 322 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, Pa. 

Josiah Qates & Sons 



MANUFACTURERS OF 



Oak Tanned • • • 



Leather Belting 



Lace Leather, Worsted Apron Leather, Picker Leather, 
Loom Strapping and Worsted Aprons, 

[Rubber Bating and J*lill 3 u PP^ e5 - 

307 Market St., Lowell, Mass. 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



Fairmount Machine Co 

Twenty=second and Wood Sts., 

PHILADELPHIA, PA. 



Textile Machinery: 

Patent Looms, of superior merit, entirely new, patent of 1895. 

Patent Harness Motions, best for the manufacturer, best for the weaver, can be fitted 

to any loom. 
Patent Warp Tension Attachment, absolutely prevents "smashes" and makes 

even cloth, applicable to any loom. 
Patent Cop and Bobbin Winding Machines, save yarn and give perfect bobbins. 

Plain and Pressure Beaming Machines. 

Plain and Pressure Spoolers. 

__ — ^^— — — ^ _ _ 

Dyeing and Sizing Hachines. 

■ i 

" Bridesburg" Looms and flachinery. 

Power Transmitting Hachinery: 

Self-Oiling Bearings, cleanly, most economical. 

Patent Friction Pulleys, simple, efficient, can be depended upon. 

Vertical Shaft Transmission, the bearings will run cool. 
Patent Huley Driving, adjustable, self-oiling. 

Patent Belt Tighteners, capable of fine adjustment. 

Special Forms of Driving, for difficult situations. 
Rope Transmission. 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



VTlfOOLENS <^_^£ 




ORSTEDS <t 





UALITY / 
UANTITY 



PRODUCED ON THE.. 



Qrompton High Speed 

Close Shed Looms 




Willi " 1895 " Patent Harness Motion :— 

Giving absolute freedom from mispicks. 

Willi " 1 89."» " Positive Take-up :— 

The number of teeth in the ratchet indicat- 
ing the exact and corresponding number 
of picks. 

With Patent Adjustable Driving 1 Motion: — 

Allowing quick change of speed without 
removal of pulleys or belt. 



CROMPTON " 1895" WOOLEN AND WORSTED LOOM. 



QROMPTON pANCY (j INGHAM [^OOMS 

ALL OTHER MAKERS TAKE AS THEIR STANDARD. 
Are built with a Positive Take-up Motion. 



Number of teeth in gear produces correspond- 
ing number of picks in cloth. 

WEAR and TEAR 



guaranteed at a minimum point. 

Onr Patent Positive Compound Lever 

Slidiug Tooth Box Motion, 

'jas no rival for maximum speed and accuracy. 

All Combinations of Shuttle Boxes. 




CROMPTON STANDARD OINQMAM LOOM 4 x 1 BOX. 



Crompton Loom Works, 

WORCESTER, MASS. 



Correspondence Solicited. 



IPosselt's Textile Library, Volume I. 




CALCULATIONS 

Being a Guide to Calculations relating to 

The Construction of all kinds of Yarns and Fabrics, 

The Analysis of Cloth, 
Speed, Power and Belt Calculations. 

For the use of Students, Operatives, Overseers and Manufacturers, 

—BY— 

E. A. POSSBLT, 

Consulting Expert on Textile Designing and Manufacturing. Editor of " The Textile 
Record." Editor of Textile Terms in " Standard Dictionary"; " Iconographic 
Encyclopedia of the Arts and Sciences.'''' Author and Publisher of " Technology of 
Textile Design""; " The facquard Machine Analyzed and Explained" ; " Structure of 
Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics." Principal of PosseW s Private School of Textile Design ; 
formerly Head Master of the Textile Department of The Pennsylvania Museum and 
School of Industrial Art, Philadelphia. 



WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. 



PHILADELPHIA : 
E- A. POSSELT, Author and Publisher, l-jQ^, I4*J -" $X' 

2152 N. Twenty-first Street. 

LONDON : 

SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON AND COMPANY, LIMITED, 

St. Dunstan's House, Fetter Lane, Fleet Street. 

1896. 

[Copyrighted 1896, by B. A. Posselt.] 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



A* 



HI. A. FURBUSH & SON MACHINE CO 

PHILADELPHIA 



MAKERS OF 



WOOLEN 



CARDING, SPINNING AND WEAVING 



MACHINERY 



ALSO 



WORSTED CARDING MACHINES, 
MURKLAND INGRAIN CARPET LOOM. 



ILLUSTRATED CATALOGUE WITH FULL PARTICULARS ON APPLICATION. 



vm 



<*7 



LIST OF ADVERTISERS. 



Altemus, W. W. & Son . . 
American Drosophore Co. . 

Barker, James 

Beer Paul 

B£nazet Heddle Co. . . 
Borchers & Co., Richard C. . 
Branson Machine Co. . . . 
Brophey, D 

Crehore, C. F. & Son . . . 
Crompton Loom Works . . 
Curtis & Marble 

Danforth Belting Co. . . . 

Dolau, Thomas E 

Draper, George & Sons . . . 

Elliott & Hall 

Entwistle, T. C 

pairmount Machine Co. . . 

Firth, William 

Fleming & Chapin 

Friedberger, S 

Funk & Wagnalls Co. ... 

Fnrbush, M. A. & Son Mach. 

Co 

Gallagher, D J. & Co. . . . 
Gates, Josiah & Sous .... 
Globe Machine Works . . . 

Gould, M. A 

Griswold Worsted Co. . . . 
Griibnau, Carl 

Hall, Amos H 

Hall, I. A. & Co 

Halto^, Tiioiiias 

Holbrook M'n'f'g. Co. . . . 
Houghton, E. F. & Co. . . 
Howson & Howson . . . . 
Howard & Bullough . . 
Hunter Machine Co., James . 

|nsinger & Co 

Janes, S. Walker 

Jones, F. & Co 

Kitson Machine Co 

Knowles Loom Works . . . 



Philadelphia . . . 


ix 


Leigh, Evan Arthur . . . 






xxiii 


Philadelphia . . . 


xxiv 


Philadelphia . . . 


iv 




Frankford, Pa. . . 


xxiv 


Philadelphia . . . 


XXXI 






XXX 




XXIV 


McCloud, C 


Philadelphia . . . 


XXIV 


Philadelphia . . . 


XXXIX 


Muhlhauser, F. Co 


Boston and 




Phila. (506 St. John 


St.) 




Cleveland, O. 


XXX 


Philadelphia . . . 


XXV11 


Nye&Tredick 


Phila. (606 Arch st. 1 






xvm 










vii 


Parks & Woolson Mach. Co 


Springfield, Vt. . . 


XV11 


Worcester .... 


i II" 


Paterson Reed and 










Harness Co. 


Paterson, N. J. . . 


XXU1 


Philadelphia . . . 


XXXVIU 




Boston . . . 


XXX 


Philadelphia . . . 


XXV11 


Pettee Machine Works . . 


Newton Up'r Falls, 




Hopedale, Mass. . 


Xlll 












Phila Photo. Engraving Co 


Philadelphia . . . 


XXIX 


Worcester, Mass. . 


xvm 


Posselt, E. A (Publisher) . 


Philadelphia . . 


XXV 


Lowell, Mass. . . . 


XVI 


" 


IC 


XXX 


Philadelphia . . . 


vi 
xvi 


Posselt's Textile School . . 


" xxxiii-xxxvi 

Philadelphia . . . xxviii 


Philadelphia . . . 


xxiv 




Philadelphia . . . 


xviii 


Philadelphia . . . 


111 






New York .... 


XXXI 


Rhoads, J. E. & Sons . . 


Phila. (239 Market) 
and Wilmington, 


Del 


Philadelphia . . . 


VI 11 






XXX 






Rogers, Gorham & Co. . . . 


Boston 


XXX 


Phila. (245-7 N. Broad St.) 


Royle, John & Sons . . . . 


Paterson, N. J. . . 




Lowell, Mass. . . . 


V 




inside back cover 


Frankford, Pa. . . 


XX11 








Philadelphia . . . 


xviii 


Schaum & Uhlinger . . . 


. Philadelphia . . . 




Philadelphia . . . 
Philadelphia . . . 


v 


Schnitzler, Charles H. . . 


Philadelphia . . . 


XXII 


xxii 




Philadelphia . . . 


xvm 




Sellers, Wm. & Co. ... 


Philadelphia . . . 


Xll 


Philadelphia . . . 


xxiv 


Sprowles & Houseman . . 


Frankford Pa. . . 


XXXVIU 


Paterson, N. J. . . 
Philadelphia . . . 


xxxviii 




Philadelphia . . . 


XV1U 


xxxx 


Sturtevant Co., B. F. . . . 




XV 


New York .... 


XX 


Sullivan, Richard T. . . . 


Boston 


XXX 


Philadelphia . . . 
Philadelphia . . . 
Pawtucket, R. I. . 


X 

xxii 
xiv 




Philadelphia . . . 
Philadelphia . . . 


xxxii 
xviii 


North Adams, Mass. 


XVII 




Paterson, N. J. . . 


xxxi 






WhitinsvilleSpin'g Ring Co 


Whitinsville, Mass. 


XIX 


Philadelphia . . 


XI 


Wilson, D. H 


Lowell, Mass. . . 


XVI 






Wiudle, J. E 


Worcester, Mass. . 


XV11 




XXX 




Boston .... 


XXX 


Philadelphia . . . 


XXIV 


Woonsocket Machine anc 


Philadelphia . . . 


XXIV 


Lowell 


XIX 




Woonsocket, R. I. . 


XXI 


Worcester 










ii and back cover 




Philadelphia . . , 


XXVI 



CLASSIFIED INDEX. 



Belting 
Danforth Beltiug Co. 
Josiah Gates & Sons 
J. E Rhoads & Sons 
Geo. L. Schofield 

Blowers 
Chas H. Schnitzler 
B. F. Sturtevant Co. 

Boiler Compound 
Geo. W. Lord 

Books 
E. A. Posselt 



Burlaps 

Gorham Rogers & Co. 

Carbonizing Machines 

Kitson Machine Co. 

Card Clothing 

E. A. Leigh 

Card Cutting and Lacing 
Machinery 

John Royle & Sons 
Schaum & Uhlinger 



Card Grinders 

T. C. Entwistle 
E. A. Leigh 

Cards for Jacquard Looms 

C. F. Crehore & Son 

Coal 

D. Brophey 

Colors 

Queen & Co. 

Condensers 

James Barker 

M. A. Furbush & Son Mach. Co. 







CLASSIFIED INDEX— Continued. 



Coppersmiths 

Paul Beer 

D. H. Wilson 

Cranes 
Wm. Sellers & Co. 

Dictionaries 

Funk & Wagnalls Co 

Design Papers 
F Jones & Co. 
Queen & Co. 

Dyeing. Printing, and Sizing 
Machines 

Fairuiount Machine Co. 
Sprowles & Houseman 

Dryers 

Kitson Machine Co. 

E. A. Leigh 

Dye Kettles 

D. H. Wilson & Co. 

Edgings 

S. Friedberger 
Fleming & Chapin 

Engraving 

Phila. Photo-Engraving Co. 

Finishing Machinery 

W W. Altemus & Son 

Richard C. Borchers & Co. 

Curtis & Marble 

Elliott & Hall 

James Hunter Machine Co. 

E. A. Leigh 

Parks & Woolson Mach. Co. 

J. E. Windle 

Woonsocket Mach. and Press Co 

Jacquards and Dobbies 

Crompton Loom Works 

M. A. Furbush & Son Mach. Co. 

Thomas Halton 

Iusinger & Co. 

Knowles Loom Works 

John Royle & Sons 

Schauni & Uhlinger 

Heating and Ventilating 
American Drosophore Co. 
B. F. Sturtevant Co. 

Hydro-Extractors 

Schaum & Uhlinger 

Journals 

Textile Record Co. 

Knitting Machinery 

Branson Mach. Co. 
E. A. Leigh 
Nye & Tredick 

Looms 

Crompton Loom Works 
Geo. Draper & Sons 
Fairmount Machine Co. 



M. A. Furbush & Son Mach. Co. 
Insinger & Co 
Knowles Loom Works 
Schaum & Uhlinger 
Woonsocket Mach. & Press Co 

Machinery (Cotton and Woolen) 

W. W. Altemus & Son 

James Barker 

Richard C. Borchers & Co. 

Crompton Loom Works 

Curtis & Marble 

Geo. Draper & Sons 

Fairmount Machine Co. 

Wm Firth 

M. A. Furbush & Son Mach. Co. 

Globe Machine Works 

Howard & Bullough 

James Hunter Machine Co. 

Insinger & Co. 

Kitson Machine Co. 

Knowles Loom Works 

Evan Arthur Leigh 

Parks & Woolson Machine Co. 

Pettee Machine Works 

Schaum & Uhlinger 

Geo. L. Schofield 

Sprowles & Houseman 

J.E. Windle 

Woonsocket Machine Co. 

Machine Tools 
Wm. Sellers & Co. 

Microscopes 
Queen & Co. 
Joseph Zentmayer 

Mill Supplies 
Benazet Heddle Co. 
Danforth Belting Co. 
Geo. "Draper & Sons 
Josiah Gates & Sons 
M. A. Gould 
I. A. Hall & Co. 
Thomas Halton 
Paterson Reed and Harness Co. 
J. E. Rhoads & Sons 
Thomas Stewart 
Jacob Walder 

Moulder's Flasks 

James Barker 

Oils 
E. F. Houghton & Co. 

Patent Solicitors 

Howson & Howson 

Pick Measures 

See Microscopes 

Pnenmatlc Conveyors 

Charles H. Schnitzler 

Press Papers 

C. F. Crehore & Son 

Printing 

D. J. Gallagher & Co. 



Publications 

See Books and Journals 

Raw Materials 
Carl Grubnau 
S. Walker Janes 
Mauger & Avery 
The F. Muhlhauser Co 
James H Paton 
Thomas F. Ring 
Richard T. Sullivan 
VV. Wolf & Sons. 

Scales 
Henry Troemner 

Schools 

Posselt's Private School of Textile 
Design 

Shafting, Pulleys, and Couplings 
Fairmount Machine Co. 
James Hunter Mach Co. 
Geo. L. Schofield 
Wm. Sellers & Co. 
Woonsocket Machine and Press Co. 

Slasher and Dresser Cylinders 
D. H. Wilson & Co. 

Silk Yarns 
S. Friedberger 
Griswold Worsted Co. 
Chas. McCloud 

Soaps 
Holbrook Mfg. Co. 

Spinning king's 
Geo. Draper & Sons 
Whitinsville Spinning Ring Co 

Spur Gear Cutters 
James Barker & Co. 

Stokers 

Wm. Sellers & Co. 

Tanks 

Geo. Woolford 
Amos H. Hall 

Warping, Beaming, and Winding 
Machinery 
W. W. Altemus 
Geo. Draper & Sons 
T. C. Entwistle 
Fairmount Machine Co. 
M. A. Furbush & Son Machine Co. 
Globe Machine Works 
Insinger & Co. 
Schaum & Uhlinger 
John Royle & Sons 

Wool-Scouring Machinery 
Wm Firth 

James Hunter Mach. Co. 
Kitson Machine Co. 
E*A Leigh 

Yarns 
Fleming & Chapin 
S. Friedberger 
Griswold Worsted Co. 
Chas. McCloud 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



W. W. ALTEMUS. 



J. K. ALTEMUS. 



ESTSBLISHED 1565, 



W.W. ALTEMUS & SON, 



Textile . . 



Machinery 



2816 North Fourth St., 



Philadelphia. 




BOBBIN WINDING MACHINE 

Patented November 23, 188T, and Variable Motion Patented September 6, 1893. 



BUILDERS OF ALL KINDS OF 

COP AND BOBBIN WINDING MACHINES, 
.^ SPOOLERS, WARPERS, BEAMERS, 

.jS). CHENILLE CUTTING, CARPET ROLLING, 

^^ SINGEING MACHINES, AND 

SPECIAL MACHINERY TO ORDER. 



WE MAKE MACHINERY FOR ALL KINDS OF YARN. 



Correspondence Solicited. 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



E. F. HOUGHTON & CO. 

OILS: 

211 S. FRONT ST. 

PHILADELPHIA, PA. 



To Textile Manufacturers. 

Gentlemen: 

For over a quarter of a century we have made a 
careful study of the requirements of the textile in- 
dustries in oils and greases. 

Commencing with the steam cylinder of the engine, 
we have ascertained the exact requirements necessary 
for a lubricating oil to reduce the coefficient of 
friction on all classes of textile machinery to the 
lowest possible minimum, thereby effecting for our 
customers a large saving in fuel and repairs. 

We have studied the best and most economical oils 
for oiling wool, softening cotton, counteracting the 
effect of harsh dyes, etc. 

In fact, there is nothing pertaining to oils and 
greases for textile mills to which we have not given 
much time and attention, and, as a result, we are 
making special oils for the various special purposes, 
which are superior in quality and more economical 
than oils made for general purposes. 

Do not worry along with oils that are • ' good 
enough," when you can easily obtain perfect oils and 
save money in the bargain. 

It is always a pleasure for us to respond to in- 
quiries and give to the textile manufacturers the 
benefit of our extensive experience. 

Yours respectfully, 

E. F. HOUGHTON & CO. 




General Manager. 



TABLE OF CONTENTS. 



Yarn and Cloth Calculations. 



PAGE 

Grading of the Various Yarns Used in the Manufacture of Textile Fabrics According to 

Size or Counts 5 

Cotton Yarns 5 

Table of Lengths from No. 1 to 240's : 5 

Grading of Two-Ply, Three-Ply, etc. , Yarns 5 

To Find Weight in Ounces of a Given Number of Yards of a Known Count 6 

To Find Weight in Pounds of a Given Numberof Yards of a Known Count 6 

To Find the Equivalent Size in Single Yarn for Two, Three or More Ply Yarn Composed of Minor Threads of 

Unequal Counts 7 

Woolen Yarns 8 

A. "Run" System 8 

Table of Lengths from J4-run to 15-run 8 

To Find the Weight in Ounces of a Given Numberof Yards of a Known Count 8 

To Find the Weight in Pounds of a Given Number of Yards of a Known Count 9 

B. " Cut" System 9 

Table of Lengths from i-cut to 50-cut Yarn 9 

To Find the Weight in Ounces of a Given Number of Yards of a Known Count 9 

To Find the Weight in Pounds of a Given Number of Yards of a Known Count 9 

Grading of Double and Twist or More Ply Yarns 10 

Worsted Yarns II 

Table of Lengths from No. I to 200's II 

Grading of Two-ply, Three-ply, etc., Yarns II 

To Find the Weight in Ounces of a Given Number of Yards of a Known Count 11 

To Find the Weight in Pounds of a Given Numberof Yards of a Known Count 12 

To Find the Equivalent Size in Single Yarn of Two, Three or More Ply Yarn Composed of Minor Threads of 

Unequal Counts 12 

Silk Yarns, 13 

A. Spun Silks 13 

B. Raw Silks 13 

Length of raw Silk Yarns per Pound and per Ounce from 1 to 30 Drams 14 

Linen Yarns, Jute Yarns, China Grass and Ramie 14 

To Find the Equivalent Counts of a Given Thread in Another System 14 

A. Cotton, Woolen and Worsted Yarns 14 

B. Spun Silk Yarns Compared to Cotton, Woolen or Worsted Yarns 16 

C. Linen Yarns, Jute and Ramie 16 

D. Raw Silk Yarns Compared to Spun Silk, Cotton, Woolen or Worsted Yarn* 16 

To Ascertain the Counts of Twisted Threads Composed of Different Materials 17 

If Compound Thread is Composed of Two Minor Threads of Different Materials 17 

If Compound Thread is Composed of Three Minor Threads of Two or Three Different Materials 17 

To Ascertain the Counts for a Minor Thread to Produce, with Other Given Minor 

Threads, Two, Three or More Ply Yarn of a Given Count 18 

A. One System of Yarn 18 

£. Two Systems of Yarns 19 



2 

PAGE 

To Ascertain the Amount of Material Required for Each Minor Thread in Laying Out 

Lots for Two, Three or More Ply Yarn i 9 

A. Double and Twist Yarn 19 

Composed of Minor Threads of the Same Material 19 

Composed of Minor Threads of Different Materials 20 

B. Three or More Ply Yarns 20 

Composed of Minor Threads of the Same Material 20 

Composed of Minor Threads of Different Materials 21 

To Ascertain the Cost of Two, Three or More Ply Yarn 22 

Composed Either of Different Qualities of Yarn only, or of the Latter Item in Addition to Different Counts of 

Minor Threads 22 

If One of the Minor Threads is of a Different Material than the Other 22 

If a Three-ply Yarn is Composed of Minor Threads of Unequal Counts as well as of a Different Price 23 

If a Three-ply Yarn is Composed of Minor Threads of different Materials as well as of Different Prices 24 

To Find the Mean or Average Value of Yarns of Mixed Stocks 24 

To Ascertain Medium Price of a Mixture when Price and Quantity of Each Ingredient are Given 24 

To Fiud Quantity of Each Kind Wool to Use in a Mixture of a Given Value 25 

To Fiud Quantity of Each Kind to Use when the Quantity of One Kind, the Different Prices of Each Kind and 

the Prices of the Mixture are Given , 26 

Reed Calculations 27 

To Ascertain Ends in Warp Knowing Reed Number, Threads per Dent and Width of Warp in Reed 27 

To Ascertain Reed Number if Number of Ends in Warp and Width in Reed are Known 27 

To Ascertain Width of Warp in Reed if Reed Number, Threads per Dent and Threads in Warp are Known 28 

Warp Calculations 29 

To Find Weight of Warp if Number of Ends, Counts and Length are given 29 

If Two or More Different Kinds of Yarn are Used 29 

If Weight of Warp is Required to be Found for One Yard only 31 

When Required to Ascertain the Weight of a Warp Dressed with Yarns of Various Counts and Answer Required 

is for the Total Weight of Warp 31 

To Find the Counts for Warp Yarn if Number of Ends in Warp and Amount of Material, Length and Weight to 

be Used are Given 33 

To Find Threads to Use if Counts of Yarns, Lengths and Weight of Warp are Given 34 

To Find Length of Warp if Number of Ends, Counts and Weight of Yarn are Given 34 

When Two or More Different Materials are Used in the Construction of Cloth 35 

Filling Calculations 37 

To Find the Length of Filling Yarn Required for Producing One or a Given Number of Yards of cloth, if Picks 

per Inch and Width of Cloth in Reed are Known 37 

To Find Weight of Filling Yarn Required, Expressed in Ounces, producing One Yard of Cloth, if Picks per Inch, 

Width of Cloth in Reed and the Counts of Yarn are Known 37 

To Find Weight of Filling Yarn Required, Expressed in Pounds or Fraction Thereof, for any Number of Yards 

if Picks per Inch, Width of Cloth in Reed and Counts of Yarn are Known 37 

If Two or More Different Kinds of Filling Yarn are Used, and it is Required to Ascertain Weight of Material for 

Each Kind 38 

If the Counts are Equal, and Lots Differ ouly in Color or Twist 38 

If Filling Yarns of Different Counts of Materials are Used 39 

To Find Counts for a Filling Yarn Required to Produce a Given Weight per Yard Cloth 40 

If Such Example Refers to Weight Given in Ounces for One Yard 40 

If Example Refers to a Given Number of Yards and Weight is Expressed in rounds 40 

To Find the Picks per Inch for a Piece of Cloth of which Counts of Yarn, Length of Cloth to be Woven, Width 

in Reed and the Amount of Material to be Used are Given 41 

If Two or More Different Counts of Filling Yarn are Used 41 

If Arrangement as to Counts of the Filling is of a Simple Form 41 

If Arrangement of Filling has a Large Number of Picks iu Repeat 42 

To Ascertain Number of Yards of Cloth Woven for a Certain Amount of Yarn on Hand 42 

To Ascertain the Amount and Cost of the Materials Used in the Construction of 

Fabrics 44 

A. Find the Total Cost of Materials Used, and B. Find the Cost of the Same per Yard Finished Cloth 44 

Fancy Cassimere 44 

Worsted Suiting , 44 



PAGE 

Cotton Dress Goods 45 

Woolen Tricot Suiting 46 

Worsted Suiting 46 

Fancy Cassimere 48 

Fancy Cotton Dress Goods 50 

Worsted Suiting 52 

Beaver Overcoating 53 

Ingrain Carpet (Extra Fine ; Cotton Chain ; Worsted Filling) 54 

Ingrain Carpet (Extra .Super ; Worsted Chain) 55 



Structure of Textile Fabrics. 

The Purpose of Wear that the Fabric will Be Subject to 57 

The Nature of Raw Materials 57 

Counts of Yarn Required to Produce a Perfect Structure of Cloth 58 

To Find the Number of Ends which, in Cotton, Woolen, Worsted, Linen and Silk Yarns, can Lie Side by Side in 

One Inch 5& 

Table Showing the Number of Ends of Cotton Yarn from Single 5's to 2/160's that will Lie Side by Side in One 

Inch 60 

Table Showing Number of Ends of Woolen Yarn "Run Basis," from i-run to 10-run, that will Lie Side by 

Side in One Inch 60 

Table Showing the Number of Ends of Woolen Yarn "Cut Basis" from 6-cut to 50-cut, that will Lie Side by 

Side in One Inch ~. 61 

Table Showing the Number of Ends of "Worsted Yarn," from 5's to 2/160's that will Lie Side by Side in One 

Inch 61 

Table Showing the Number of Ends of Raw Silk Yarn, from 20 Drams to 1 dram, that will Lie Side by Side in 

One Inch 6l 

Table Showing the Number of Ends of Linen Yarns, from io's to ioo's, that will Lie Side by Side iu One Inch... 62 

To Find the Diameter of a Thread by Means of a Given Diameter of Another Count of Yarn 62 

To Find the Counts of Yarn Required for a Given Warp Texture by Means of a Known Warp Texture with the 

Respective Counts of the Yarn Given 63 

A. Dealing with One Material b 3 

B. Dealing with Two or More Materials 64 

Influence of the Twist of Yarns upon the Texture of a Cloth 64 

To Find the Amount of Twist Required for a Yarn if the Counts and Twist of a Yarn of the Same System, but 

of Difnerent Counts, are Known • 65 

Influence of the Weave upon the Texture of a Fabric 66 

To Find the Texture of a Cloth 67 

To Change the Texture for Given Counts of Yarn from one Weaver to Another 70 

To Change the Weight of a Fabric without Influencing its General Appearance 70 

1. Given Cloth 7 1 

2. Required Cloth " 2 

1. Given Cloth I 2 

2. Required Cloth 73 

To Find number of Ends Per Inch in Required Cloth 73 

Weaves which will Work with the Same Texture as the 2 2 Twill 74 

Weaves which will Work with the Same Texture as the ' — - - — - etc. Twill 74 

Selections of the Proper Texture for Fabrics Interlaced with Satin Weaves 75 

Selection of the Proper Texture for Fabrics Interlaced with Rib Weaves 75 

Warp Effects 75 

Filling Effects 7 6 

Figured Rib Weaves 7" 

Selections of the Proper Texture for Fabrics Interlaced with Corkscrew Weaves 76 

Selection of the Proper Texture for Fabrics Constructed with Two Systems Filling and One System Warp 77 

Selection of the Proper Texture for Fabrics Constructed with Two Systems Warp and One System Filling 79 

Selection of the Proper Texture for Fabrics Constructed with Two Systems Warp and Two Systems Filling 82 

One End Face, to Alternate with One End Back in Warp and Filling 82 

Two Ends Face, to Alternate with One End Back iu Warp and Filling 83 



4 
Analysis. 

PAGE 

How to Ascertain the Raw Materials Used in the Construction of Textile Fabrics S5 

Microscopical Appearance of Fibres 85 

Cotton 85 

Silk, Wild Silk, Weighted Silk S6 

Wool, Untrue Fibres, Kemps, Shoddy, Mungo, Extract, Foreign Wools, Mohair, Cashmere, Alpaca, Vicugna, 

Llama, Camel's Hair, Cow's Hair S6 

Flax, Hemp, Jute and China Grass 90 

Tests for Ascertaining the Raw Materials Used in the Construction of Yarns or Fabrics 91 

Cotton, Linen, Jute, China Grass, Silk and Wool 91 

How to Ascertain the Percentage of Each Material Constituting the Fabric 93 

Wool and Cotton, Silk and Cotton, Percentage, Wool and Silk, Cotton Wool and Silk 93 

How to Test the Soundness of Fibres or Yarns 94 

Illustration and Description of a Testing Machine 95 

How to Test Given Counts of Yarn 96 

How to Ascertain the Weight of Cloth per Yard from a Small Sample 96 

How to Calculate the Weight of Finished Cloth 97 

How to Test and Analyze the Various Finishes of Cotton Goods 98 

The Best Size for Cotton Goods 99 

To Ascertain the Percentage of Size 100 

Substances Used in Finishing Cotton Cloth 100 

Cotton Spinning 101 

Power Required to Drive the Various Machines in a Cotton Mill — Speed of the Various Machines in a Cotton 
Mill— Heat and Moisture Required for Good Cotton Spinning and Weaving— Sliver Table— Roving Table — 
Calculation for Yarns 20's to 26's from the Lap to the Yarn— How to Ascertain the Capacity of a Carding 
Engine — How to Find the Number of Carding Engines to Give a Regular Supply of Cotton to Each Drawing 
Frame — How to Find the Quantity of Filleting Required to Cover a Card Cylinder or Doffer — Traveler 
Table for Spinning at Medium Speeds— To Calculate Loss of Twist in Ring Spinning— To Find the Per- 
centage Cotton Yarn Contracts in Twisting— How to Ascertain the Number of Yards of Cotton Yarn on 
Bobbin— Twist Table— Draper's Table of the Breaking Weight of American Warp Yarns per Skein— Table 
Giving the Amount of Twist for the Various Kinds of Twisted Yarns — Production of Drawing Frames- 
Table Giving Production per Spindle for Warp and Filling Yarn from 4's to 6o's— Production of Cards at 
Various Speeds with Various Weights of Slivers. 

Speed, Belting, Power, Etc. 

Speed 107 

How to Find the Circumference of a Circle or of a Pulley— How to Compute the Diameter of a Circle or of a 
Pulley — How to Compute the Area of a Circle — How to Determine the Speed of a Driven Shaft— A Pair of 
Mitre Wheels— How to Compute the Velocities, etc., of Toothed Gears— The Pitch of a Gear— Bevel Gears 
— The Pitch Line of a Gear— To Measure the Diameter of a Gear— To Ascertain the Pitch of a Gear — 
Driving-Driven — How to Distinguish the Driver from the Driven Wheel — How to Find the Speed of the 
Driving Wheel— How to Obtain the Size of the Driving Wheel— How to Obtain the Size of the Driven 
Wheel— Worm Wheels— A Mangle Wheel— How to Change the Speed of a Driven Pulley, Shaft or Wheel- 
To Increase the Speed by Increasing the Size of the Driver— To Increase the Speed by Decreasing the Size 
of Driven Wheel— How to Ascertain the Circumferential Velocity of a Wheel, Driver or Cylinder— How 
to Find the Speed of Last Shaft— How to Ascertain the Number of Revolutions of the Last Wheel at the End 
of a Train of Spur Wheels— How to Ascertain the Number of Teeth in Each Wheel for a Train of Spur Wheels 
— How to Find the Number of Revolutions of the Last Wheel of a Train of Wheels— How to Straighten a 
Crooked Shaft— How to Cool a Hot Shaft— Cooling Compound— Steel and Iron— How to Harden Cast Iron. 

Belting : rn 

Rules for Calculating the Width of Leather Belting (Single) Required for Given Power— Table of Safe, Actual 
Width of Single Belts to Transmit Given Power at Given Speeds— To Find the Length of a Driving Belt 
Before the Pulleys are in Position — How to Find Where to Cut Belt-Holes in Floors. 

How to Manage Belts 112 

Water Power 114 

Steam Power 114 

Heat 115 

Arithmetic 116 

U. S. Measures : 43 

Metric System J 44 



YARN AND CLOTH CALCULATIONS. 



Grading of the Various Yarns Used in the Manufacture of 
Textile Fabrics According to Size or Counts. 



The size of the yarns, technically known as their "Counts" or numbers, are based for the different 
raw materials (with the exception of raw silks) upon the number of yards necessary to balance one (1) 
lb. avoirdupois. The number of yards thus required (to balance ] lb.) are known as the "Standard" 
and vary accordingly for each material. The higher the count or number, the finer the yarn according 
to its diameter. 

COTTON YARNS. 

Cotton yarns have for their standard 840 yards (equal to 1 hank) and are graded by the number 
of hanks 1 lb. contains. Consequently if 2 hanks, or 2 X 840 yards = 1G80 yards are necessary to 
balance 1 lb. we classify the same as number 2 cotton yarn If 3 hanks or 3 X 840 or 2520 yards are 
necessary to balance 1 lb., the thread is known as number 3 cotton yarn. Continuing in this manner, 
always adding 840 for each successive number gives the yards the various counts or numbers of cotton 
yarn contain for 1 lb. 

Table of Lengths for Cotton Yarns. 

(From number I to 240's.) 



No. 


Yds. to 1 lb. 




No. 


Yds. to 1 lb. 




No. 


Yds. to 1 lb 




No. 


Yds. to 1 lb. 




No. 


Yds. to 1 lb. 


1 


840 


17 


14,280 


33 


27,720 


50 


42,000 


85 


71,400 


2 


1,680 




18 


15,120 




34 


2S,56o 




52 


43,680 




90 


75,6oo 


3 


2,520 




19 


15,960 




35 


29,400 




54 


45,36o 




95 


79,8oo 


4 


3,36o 




20 


16,800 




36 


30,240 




56 


47,040 




100 


84,000 


5 


4,200 




21 


17,640 




37 


31,080 




58 


48,720 




no 


92,400 


6 


5.040 




22 


18,480 




33 


31,920 




60 


50,400 




120 


100,800 


7 


5,88o 




23 


19,320 




39 


32,760 




62 


52,080 




130 


109,200 


8 


6,720 




24 


20,160 




40 


33,6oo 




64 


53,76o 




140 


117,600 


9 


7,56o 




25 


21,000 




41 


34,44o 




66 


55,440 




150 


126,000 


10 


8,400 




26 


21,840 




42 


35,28o 




68 


57,120 




160 


134,400 


11 


9,240 




27 


22,68o 




43 


36.120 




70 


58,800 




170 


142,800 


12 


10,080 




2S 


23,520 




44 


36,960 




72 


60,480 




180 


151,200 


13 


10,920 




29 


24,360 




45 


37,800 




74 


62,160 




190 


159,600 


14 


11,760 




30 


25, 200 




46 


38,640 




76 


63,840 




200 


168,000 


15 


12,600 




31 


26,040 




47 


39,43o 




7S 


65,520 




220 


184,800 


16 


i3,44o 




32 


26,880 




48 


40,320 




80 


67,200 




240 


201,600 



Grading of 2-ply, 3-ply, etc., Cotton Yarns. 

Cotton Yarns are frequently manufactured into 2-ply. In such cases the number of yards required 
for 1 lb. is one-half the amount called for in the single thread. 

For Example. — 20's cotton yarn (single) equals 16,800 yards per pound, while a 2-ply thread of 
20's cotton, technically indicated as 2/20's cotton, requires only 8400 yards, or equal to the amount 
called for in single 10's cotton (technically represented as 10's cotton). Single 7's cotton yarn has 5,880 
yards to 1 lb., and thus equals 2-ply 14's cotton yarn ; or 2/14's cotton yarn equals one-half the count 
(14-^2=7), or number 7 in single yarn. 

5 



6 

If the yarn be more than 2-ply, divide the number of the single yarn in the required counts by 
the number of ply, and the result will be the equivalent counts in a single thread. 

Example. — Three-ply 60's, or 3/60's cotton yarn, equals in size 

[Number of single yarn) ( N , , , ( j Equivalent counts in al 

\ in required counts. ) \ mmoer 01 P x 3 ■ ( | single thread / 

(60 ■+■ 3 = 20) 

single 20's cotton yarn, or 16,800 yards of single 20's cotton yarn weigh 1 lb., and 16,800 yards of 

3/60's cotton yarn weigh also 1 lb. Again, 4-ply 60's or 4/60's cotton yarn equals in size 

I Number of single yarn 1 f ,,,„„, " . , 1 /Equivalent counts in a) 

\ in required counts. } \ Number of ply. ^ j single thread. \ 

(60 -h 4 = 15) 

single 15's cotton yarn ; or single 15's cotton yarn has 12.600 yards, weighing 1 lb., which is also the 
number of yards required for 4/60's cotton yarn. 

Rule for finding the Weight in Ounces of a given Number of Yards of Cotton Yarn 

of a known Count. 

Multiply the given yards by 16, and divide the result by the number of yards of the known 
count required to balance 1. lb. 

Example (single yarn). — Find weight of 12,600 yards of 30's cotton yarn. 12,600x16= 
201,600 ; 1 lb. 30's cotton yarn=25,200 yards. Thus, 201,600-^25,200=8. 
Answer. — 1 2,600 yards of 30's cotton yarn weigh 8 oz. 

Example (2-ply yarn).— Find the weight of 12,600 yards of 2/30's cotton yarn. 12,600x16= 
201,600 ; 1 lb. 2/30's cotton yarn=12,600 yards. Thus, 201, 600h- 12,600= 16. 
Answer. — 12,600 yards of 2/30's cotton yarn weigh 16 oz. 

Example— (3-ply yarn).— Find the weight of 12,600 yards of 3/30's cotton yarn. 12,600x16= 
201,600 ; 1 lb. 3/30's cotton yani=8,400 yards. Thus, 201,600-^8,400=24 oz. 
Answer. — 12,600 yards of 3/30's cotton yarn weigh 24 oz. 

Another rule for ascertaining the weight in ounces for a given number of yards of cotton yarn of 
a known count is as follows : Divide the given yards by the number of yards of the known count 
required to balance one ounce (being yards per lb. -^-16). 

Example (single yarn). — Find the weight of 12,600 yards of 30's cotton yarn. 25,200-=- 16 = 
1,575 yards 30's cotton yarn=l oz.; 12,600^-1,575=8. 
Answer. — 1 2,600 yards of 30's cotton yarn weigh 8 oz. 

Example (2-ply yarn). — Find the weight of 12,600 yards of 2/30's cotton yarn. 12,600-^-16 = 
787J yards 2/30's cotton yarn=l oz.; 12,600-^7871=16. 

Answer. — 12,600 yards of 2/30's cotton yarn weigh 16 oz. 

Example (3-ply yarn).— Find the "weight for 12,600 yards of 3/30's cotton yarn. 8,400-=- 16=525 
yards 3/30's cotton yarn=l oz. ; 12,600-^-525=24. 

Ansicer. — 12,600 yards of 3/30's cotton yarn weigh 24 oz. 

Rule for finding the Weight in Pounds of a given Number of Yards of Cotton Yarn 

of a known Count. 

Divide the given yards by the number of yards of the known count required to balance 1 lb. 

Example (single yarn). — Find the weight of 1,260,000 yards of 30's cotton yarn. 30's cotton 
yarn=25,200 yards to 1 lb. Thus, l,260,000-=-25,200=50. 
Answer. — 1,260,000 yards of 30's cotton yarn weigh 50 lbs. 



Example (2-ply yarn).— Find the weiglit of 1,260,000 yards of 2 30's cotton yarn. 2/30 ? S cotton 
yarn=12,600 yards to 1 lb. Tims, 1,260,000-^-12,600=100. 

Answer.— 1,260,000 yards of 2/30's cotton yarn weigh 100 lbs. 

Ei-ample (3-ply yarn).— Find the weight of 1,260,000 yards of 3/30's cotton yarn. 3/30's cotton 
yarn=8,400 yards to 1 lb. Thus, 1,260,000-^-8,400=150. 

Answer. — 1,260,000 yards of 3/30's cotton yarn weigh 150 ll>s. 

To find the Equivalent Size in Single Yarn for Two, Three, or More, Ply Yarn Composed 

of Minor Threads of Unequal Counts. 

jlII the manufacture of fancy yarns the compound thread is often composed of two or more 
minor threads of unequal counts. If so, the rules for finding the equivalent in single yarn is as follows : 

Rule. — If the compound thread is composed of two minor threads of unequal counts, divide the 
product of the counts of the minor threads by their sum. 

Example. — Find the equal in single yarn to a two-fold thread composed of single 40's and 6<»'s. 
40x60=2400-4-100 (40 + 60)=24. 

Answer. — A two-fold cotton thread composed of single 40's and 60's equals a single 24's. 

Rule. — If the compound thread is composed of three minor threads of unequal counts, com- 
pound any two of the minor threads into one, and apply the previous rule to this compound thread and 
the third minor thread not previously used. 

Example. — Find equal counts in a single thread to a 3-ply yarn composed of 20's, 30's and 50's. 
20x30=600-^50 (20+30)=12; 12x50=600-=-62 (12+50)=9fr. 

Answer. — A 3-ply cotton yarn composed of 20's, 30's and 50's equals in size a single 91 Fs thread. 

A second rule for finding the equivalent counts for a yarn when three or more minor threads are 
twisted together is as follows : Divide one of the counts by itself, and by the others in succession, and 
afterwards by the sum of the quotients. To prove the accuracy of this rule we give again the previ- 
ously given example. 

Example. — Find equai counts in a single thread to a 3-ply yarn composed of 20's, 30's and 50's. 
50^-50=1 

50-^-30=11 50-h5J=9s} 

50-f-20=2f 

5i 

Answer. — A 3-ply cotton thread composed of 20's, 30's and 50's equals in size a single 9fi's thread. 
Example. — Find equal counts in a single yarn for the following 3-ply yarn composed of 40's, 

30's, and 20's cotton threads. 

40-h40=1 

40h-30=1£ 40-h4£=9A 

40^-20=2 

Answer. — The 3-ply yarn given in the example equals a single 9A cotton thread. 

Memo. — In the manufacture of twisted yarns (composed either out of two, three, or more minor 
threads) a certain amount of shrinkage will take place by means of the twisting of the threads around 
each other. No doubt if both minor threads are of equal counts this shrinkage will be equal for both, 
but if the sizes of the yarns, or the raw materials of which they are composed, are different, such 
"take-up" will be different for each minor thread. For example: a strong and heavy minor thread 
twisted with a fine soft thread; in this case the finer thread will wind itself (more or less) around the 
thick or heavy thread, not having sufficient strength to bend the latter, thus the finer thread will take 



8 

Up more in proportion than the heavy thread. Twisting a woolen thread with a cotton thread, both 
supposed to be of the same counts, will stretch the former more than the latter; i. e. it will lose less in 
length during twisting compared to the latter. Again two or more minor threads twisted with differ- 
ent turns per inch will accordingly take up differently. In giving rules for any of the yarn calcula- 
tions in 2, 3, or more ply yarn, no notice of shrinkage or take-up by means of twisting the minor 
threads is taken in account, since otherwise an endless number of rules of the most complicated char- 
acter would be required with reference to raw materials, the different counts of threads, turns of twist 
per inch and tension for each individual minor thread during the twisting operation. Such rules would 
thus be of little value to the manufacturer since his practical experience regarding this subject will 
readily assist him to calculate quickly and exactly by rules given, with a proportional allowance for a 
take up of minor threads as the case may require. 

WOOLEN YARNS. 

A. "Run" System. 

Woolen yarns are with the exception of the mills in Philadelphia and vicinity, graded by "runs" 
which have for their standard 1600 yards. Consequently 1 run yarn requires 1600 yards to 1 lb., 2 
run yarn — 3200 yards to 1 lb., 3 run yarn — 4800 yards to 1 lb., etc., always adding 1600 yards for 
each successive run. In addition to using whole numbers only as in the case of cotton and worsted 
yarn, the run is divided into halves, quarters, and occasionally into eighths, hence — 



&c. 



200 yards 


equal ^ 


run 


1000 yards equal f run 


400 " 


« i 
I 


u 


1200 " " f " 


600 " 


" 3 
8 


u 


1400 " " | " 


800 " 


'< 1 
2 


it 


1600 " " 1 " 



Table of Lengths for Woolen Yarns (Run System). 

(From oue-fourth Run to fifteen Run) 



Run. 


Yds. to i lb. 




Run. 


Yds. to 1 lb. 




Run. 


Yds to 1 lb 




Run 


Yds to 1 lb 


% 


400 


3 


4,Soo 


Mi 


9,200 


8'A 


13,600 


y* 


800 




M4 


5,200 




6 


9,600 




w 


14,000 


h 


1, 200 




Mi 


5,600 




0% 


10,000 




9' 


14,400 


i 


1,600 




3* 


6,000 




654 


10,400 




9'A 


15,200 


i* 


2,000 




4 


6,400 




eu 


10,800 




10 


16,000 


i% 


2,400 




Art 


6,800 




7 


11,200 




io}4 


i 6, 800 


iU 


2,800 




aVz 


7,200 




7'4 


11,600 




11 


17,600 


2 


3,200 




AH 


7,600 




MA 


12,000 




12 


19,200 


2>A 


3,600 




5 


8,000 




7U 


12 400 




13 


20,800 


2% 


4,000 




MA 


8,400 




8 


12,800 




14 


22,400 


2K 


4,400 




MA 


8,800 




sy 4 


13,200 




15 


24,000 



Rule for Finding the Weight in Ounces of a Given Number of Yards of Woolen Yarn of a 
Known Count Graded After the Run System. 

The run basis is very convenient for textile calculations by reason of the standard number equaling 
100 times the number of ounces that 1 lb. contains ; thus by simply multiplying the size of the yarn 
given in run counts by 100, and dividing the result into the number of yards given (for which we have 
to find the weight), gives us as the result the weight expressed in ounces 

Example.— Find the weight of 7200 yards of 4 run yarn— 4 X 1 00=400. 7200-^-400=18. 
Answer. — 7200 yards 4 run yarn weigh 18 ounces. 

Example. — Find the weight of 3750 yards of 3| run woolen yarn — 3750-^375=10. 
Answer. — 3750 yards of 3f run woolen yarn weigh 10 ounces. 



Rule for Finding the Weight in Pounds of a Given Number of Yards of Woolen Yarn of a 

Known Count Graded After the Run System. 

If the weight of a given number of yards and of a given size of woolen yarn, run system, is 
required to be calculated in pounds, transfer the result obtained in ounces into pounds or fractions thereof. 

Example.— Find the weight of 100,000 yards of 6£ run yarn — 100,000-^625=160 oz. -r-16=10. 
Answer. — 100,000 yards of 6£ run yarn weigh 10 lbs. 

B. "Cut" System. 

As heretofore mentioned, woolen yarn is also graded by the " cut " system. 300 yards is the basis or 
standard, consequently if 300 yards of a given woolen yarn weigh 1 lb., we classify it as 1 cut yarn ; 
if 600 yards weigli 1 lb. we classify it as 2 cut yarn; if 900 yards weigh 1 lb. we classify it as 3 cut 
yarn, and so on ; hence the count of the woolen yarn expressed in the cut multiplied by 300 gives as 
the result the number of yards of respective yarn that 1 lb. contains. 

Table of Lengths for Woolen Yarns (Cut System). 
(From I cut to 50 cut Yarn.) 



Cut. 


Yards to lb. 




Cut. 


Yards to lb. 




Cut. 


Yards to lb. 




Cut. 


Yards to lb. 




Cut. 


Yards to lb. 


1 


300 


12 


3,600 


23 


6,900 


34 


10,200 


45 


13,500 


2 


600 




13 


3.9°° 




24 


7 200 




35 


10,500 




46 


13,800 


3 


900 




14 


4,200 




25 


7,500 




36 


10,800 




48 


14,400 


4 


1,200 




15 


4.500 




26 


7,800 




37 


11, 100 




50 


15,000 


5 


1,500 




16 


4,Soo 




27 


S, 100 




3« 


11,400 




54 


16,200 


6 


1, 80c 




17 


5,100 




28 


8,400 




39 


11,700 




58 


17,400 


7 


2,100 




18 


5,4oo 




29 


8,700 




40 


12,000 




60 


18,000 


8 


2,400 




19 


5.7oo 




30 


9,000 




41 


12,300 




65 


19,500 


9 


2,700 




20 


6,000 




31 


9,3oo 




42 


12,600 




7o 


21,000 


10 


3,000 




21 


6,300 




32 


9,600 




43 


12,900 




75 


22,500 


11 


3.300 




22 


6,600 




33 


9,900 




44 


13,200 




So 


24,000 



Rule for Finding the Weight in Ounces for a Given Number of Yards of Woolen Yarn of 
a Known Count Figured by the "Cut" Basis. 

This rule is similar to the one given for cotton yarn. " Multiply the given yards by 16 and divide 
the result by the original number of yards for the given count of cotton yarn that 1 lb. contains." 

Example. — Find the weight of 12,600 yards of 40-cut woolen yarn. 12,600x16=201,600; 1 
lb. of 40-cut woolen yarn=12,000 yards. Thus, 201, 600-h 12,000=1 6.8. 
Answer. — 12,600 yards of 40-cut woolen yarn weigh 16.8 oz. 

The other rule for ascertaining the weight in ounces for a number of yards of cotton yarn of 
a known count is as follows: Divide the given yards by the number of yards of the known count 
required to balance one ounce. 

Example.— Find the weight for 12,600 yards of 40-cut woolen yarn. 12,000-^16=750 
12,600-f-750=16.8. 

Answer. — 12,600 yards of 40-cut woolen yarn weigh 16.8 oz. 

Rule for Finding the Weight in Pounds of a Given Number of Yards of Woolen Yarn 
of a Known Count, Graded by the Cut Basis. 

This rule is also similar to the one previously given for cotton yarn. Divide the given yards 
by the original number of yards for the given count of woolen yarn (cut basis) in 1 lb. The 
result expresses the weight in pounds, or fractions thereof. 



10 

Example. — Find the weight of 1,260,000 yards of 40-cut woolen yarn. 40-cut woolen yarn= 
12,000 yards to 1 lb. Thus, 1,260,000^-12,000=105. 

Answer. — 1 ,260,000 yards of 40-cut woolen yarn weigh 105 lbs. 

Grading of Double and Twist or more Ply Woolen Yarn. 

Woolen yarns are sometimes manufactured in double and twist (d&liv.), seldom in a more ply. 

If produced in d&tw, and if both single threads are of the same counts, the established custom 
is to consider the compound thread one half the count of the minor. Thus, a d&tw. 6-run woolen yarn 
will equal a single 3-run ; or either yarn figures 4,800 yards to a lb. A d&tw. 7J-run woolen yarn will 
equal a single 3J-run woolen yarn ; or either yarn requires 6,000 yards per lb. A d&tw. 30-cut woolen 
yarn equals a single 15-cut, or both kinds of yarn required 4,500 yards per lb. 

If the compound thread is composed of three or more single threads, divide the number of the 
single yarn by the number of ply, and the result will be the required counts in a single thread. 

Examples. — Three-ply 10-run woolen yarn equals a (10-^3) 3J-run single thread, or requires 
5,333J yards per lb. A 3-ply 45-cut woolen yarn equals a (45-8-3) 15-cut single yarn, or requires 
4,500 yards per lb. 

Double and twisted woolen yarns, used in the manufacture of " fancy cassimeres," are frequently 
composed of two minor threads of unequal counts. If so, the rule for finding the equal in a sin- 
gle thread as compared with the compound thread is as follows: Divide the product of the counts of 
the minor threads by their sum. 

Example. — Find the equal counts in single woolen yarn (run basis) for a double and twist 
thread composed of single 3-run and 6-run woolen yarn. 3X6=18-f-9(3-|-6)=2. 

Answer. — A 3-run and 6-run woolen thread being twisted equal a single 2-run woolen thread. 

Example. — Find the equal counts in single woolen yarn (cut basis) for a double and twist thread 
composed of single 20-cut and 30-cut yarn. 20x30=600-8-50 (20+30)=12. 

Answer. — A 20-cut and 30-cut woolen yarn twisted equal single 12-cut woolen yarn. 

As previously mentioned, we may in a few instances be called on to calculate for a 3-ply yarn. If 
such a compound thread is composed of three minor threads of unequal counts, compound any of the 
minor threads into one, and apply the previously-given rule for d&tw. 

Ecample. — A 3-run, 6-run and 8-run thread beiDg twisted together, what are the equal counts in 
one thread for the compound thread? 

3X6=18-8-9(3 + 6)=2. (A 3-run and a 6-run thread compounded equal a 2-ruu single thread) 
Thus, 2x8=16-8-10(2+8)=l r fi 5 =H. 

Answer. — Compound thread given in example equals \\ run. 

Example. — A 20-cut, 30-cut and a 36 -cut thread, being twisted together, what is its equal size in a 
single yarn? 20x30=600-8-50(20 + 30)=12, and 12x36=432-8-48(12 + 36)=9. 
Answer. — Compound thread given in example equals a single 9-cut thread. 

As already mentioned, under the head of cotton yarns, a second rule for finding the equivalent 
counts for a yarn where three or more minor threads are twisted together is as follows : Divide one of 
the counts by itself, and by the others in succession, and afterwards by the sum of the quotients. 

To prove this rule, we will use examples heretofore given. 

Example. — Find equal counts in one thread for the following compound thread, composed of a 
3-run, 6-run and 8-run thread. 

8-4-8 = 1 

8 -r- 6 =,1J 8-s-5 = l! 

8 -*- 3 = 2§ 



11 

Ansieer. — Compound thread given in example equals 1 ■. run. 

Example. — A 20-cut. 30-eut and 36-cut thread, being twisted together, what is its equal size in a 
single yarn ? 



36-^.3(3 = 1 

36-^30=U 

36-=-20=H 



30^-4=9 



Anstoer. — Compound thread given in example equals a single 9-cut thread. 

WORSTED YARNS. 

Worsted yarns have for their standard measure 500 yards to the hank. The number of hanks 
that balance one pound indicate the number or the count by which it is graded. Hence if 40 hanks 
each 560 yards long, weigh 1 lb. such a yarn is known as 40's worsted. If 48 hanks are required to 
balance 1 lb. it is known as 48's worsted. In this manner the number of yards for any si/e or count 
of worsted varns is found by simply multiplying the number or count by 560. 

Table of Lengths for 'Worsted Yarn. 

(From No. I to 200's). 



No. 


Yds. to 1 lb. 




No 


Yds. to 1 lb. 




No. 


Yds. to 1 lb. 




No. 


Yds to 1 lb. 




No. 


Yds. to 1 lb. 


I 


560 


15 


8,400 


29 


16,240 


46 


25,760 


74 


41,440 


2 


1,120 




16 


S,96o 




30 


16,800 




48 


26,880 




76 


42,560 


3 


i,6So 




17 


9.520 




31 


17,360 




50 


28,000 




80 


44,800 


4 


2,240 




18 


10,080 




32 


17,920 




52 


29,12a 




85 


47,600 


5 


2,800 




19 


10,640 




33 


18,480 




54 


30, 240 




90 


50,400 


6 


3.36o 




20 


1 1 , 200 




34 


19,040 




56 


31,360 




95 


53.200 


7 


3.92o 




21 


11,760 




35 


19,600 




58 


32,480 




100 


56,000 


S 


4,480 




22 


12,320 




36 


20,160 




60 


33,6oo 




no 


61,600 


9 


5.040 




23 


12,880 




37 


20,720 




62 


34,72o 




120 


67,200 


IO 


5,600 




24 


13.440 




3S 


2I,2So 




64 


35,840 




130 


72,800 


ii 


6,160 




25 


14,000 




39 


21,840 




66 


36,960 




140 


78, 400 


12 


6,720 




26 


14.560 




40 


22,40O 




68 


38,080 




160 


89,600 


13 


7,280 




27 


15,120 




42 


23.520 




70 


39,200 




1 So 


100,800 


14 


7,840 




28 


15,680 




44 


24,640 




72 


40,320 




200 


112,000 



Grading of 2-ply, 3-ply, etc. Worsted Yarns. 

Worsted yarn is like cotton yarn, very frequently produced in 2-ply. If such is the case, only 
one-half the number of yards as required per pound for the single yarn are required to balance the 
pound of 2-ply yarn. Hence 40's worsted (technically for single 40's worsted) requires 22,400 yards 
per lb. and 2/80's worsted (technically for 2-ply 80's worsted) requires also 22,400 yards per pound. 
2/60's worsted has 16,800 yards per pound corresponding to single 30's worsted. 

If the yarn be more than 2-ply, divide the number of yards of single yarn by the number of ply. 

Examples. — 3-ply 90's (3/90's) worsted yarn equals in size (90-^3) a single 30's thread ; or both 
kinds of yarn require 16,800 yards to balance 1 lb. — 4'80's worsted yarn equals a (80-^4) single 20's. 

Rule for Finding Weight in Ounces for a Given Number of Yards of Worsted Yarn of a 

Known Count. 

Multiply the given yards by 16, and divide the result by the number of yards the given count of 
worsted yarn contains balancing 1 lb. 



12 

Example (single yarn). — Find the weight for 12,600 yards of 40's worsted. 12,600X16=201,- 
600. 1 lb. of 40's worsted =22,400 yards, thus :— 201,600-^-22,400=9. 
Answer. — 12,600 of 40's worsted weigh 9 oz. 

Example (2-ply yarn). — Find the weight of 12,600 yards of 2/40's worsted. 12,600x16= 
201,600. 1 lb. of 2/40's=ll,200 yards. Hence 201,600-5-11,200=18 
Answer. — 12,600 yards of 2/40's worsted weigh 18 oz. 

Example (3-ply yarn).— Find the weight of 12,600 yards of 3/40's worsted. 12,600X16=201,- 
600. 1 lb of 3/40's=7,466f yards, thus 201,600-5-7,466f =27. 
Answer. — 1 2,600 yards of 3/40's worsted weigh 27 oz. 

Another rule for ascertaining the weight in ounces for a given number of yards of worsted yarn 
of a known count is as follows : Divide the given yards by the number of yards of the known count 
required to balance 1 oz. 

Example (single yarn). — Find the weight for 12,600 yards of 40's worsted. 22,400-5-16= 
1,400. 12,600-5-1,400=9. 

Answer. — 12,600 yards of 40's worsted weigh 9 oz. 

Example (2-ply yarn).— Find the weight of 12,600 yards of 2/40's worsted. 11,200-5-16=700 
12,600-5-700=18. 

Answer. — 12,600 yards of 2/40's worsted weigh 18 oz. 

Example (3-ply yarn).— Find the weight of 12,600 yards of 3/40's worsted. 7466f-5-16= 
466| and 12,600^466f=12600^V m =Hm x - JL =27. 

Answer. — 1 2,600 yards of 3/40's worsted weigh 27 ounces. 

Rule for Finding the 'Weight in Pounds of a Given Number of Yards of Worsted Yarn 

of a Known Count. 

Divide the given yards by the number of yards of the known count required to balance 1 lb. 

Example (single yarn). — Find the weight of 1,260,000 yards of 40's worsted yarn, 40's worsted= 
22,400 yds. to 1 lb. Thus, 1,260,000-5-22,400=56} . 

Answer. — 1,260,000 yds. of 40's worsted weigh 56} lbs. 

Example (2-ply yarn). — Find the weight of 1,260,000 yards of 2/40's yarn. 2/40's worsted= 
11,200 yards to 1 lb. Thus, 1,260,000-5-11,200=1121 

Answer. — 1,260,000 yards of 2/40's worsted yarn weigh 112J lbs. 

Example (3-ply yarn).— Find the weight of 1,260,000 yards of 3/40's worsted yarn. 3/40's 
worsted=7,467 yards to 1 lb. Hence, l,260,000-5-7,467=168f. 

Answer. — 1,260,000 yards of 3/40's worsted yarn weigh 168| lbs. 

To Find the Equivalent Size in Single Yarn of Two, Three or More Ply Yarn Composed 

of Minor Threads of Unequal Counts. 

Worsted yarn is also occasionally manufactured in 2, 3, or more ply yarn in which the minor 
threads are of unequal counts; if so the rules for finding the equivalent in a single yarn are similar to 
those given for cotton and woolen yarns. 

If the compound thread is composed of two minor threads of unequal counts, divide the product of 
the counts of the minor threads by their sum. 



13 

Example. — Find the equal in single yarn to a 2-fold thread composed of single 20's and 60's. 
20x60=1200-s-80 (20+60)=15. 

Answer. — A 2-fold worsted yarn composed of 20's and 60's equals a single 15's, 

If the compound thread is composed of 3 minor threads of unequal counts, compound any two of 
the minor threads into one, and apply the rule given previously to this thread and the third minor 
thread not previously used. 

Example. — Find equal counts in a single thread to a 3-ply yarn composed of 20's, 40's, and 60's. 
20x40=800^-60 (2D+40) =13£. 13£x60=800-=-73£ (13^+60) =10M % . 

Answer. — A 3-ply 20's, 40's, and 60's worsted thread equals in size a single 10r?'s. 

These examples can be proved by the second rule, viz. : Divide one of the counts by itself and by 
the others in succession, and after this by the sum of the quotients. 

Example. — Find equal counts in a single thread to a 3-ply yarn composed of 60's, 40's and 20's 
worsted. 

60-5-60=1 

60-5-40=li 60-5-5i=10M. 

60^-20=3 

•H 

Answer. — A 3-ply 20's, 40's and 60's worsted thread equals in size a single IOti's. 

SILK YARNS. 
A. Spun Silks. 

Spun silks are calculated as to the size of the thread, on the same basis as cotton (840 yards to 1 
hank), the number of hanks one pound requires indicating the counts. In the calculation of cotton, 
woolen or worsted, double and twist yarn, the custom is to consider it as twice as heavy as single ; thus 
double and twisted 40's (technically 2/40's) cotton, equals single 20's cotton for calculations. In the 
calculation of spun silk the single yarn equals the two-fold ; thus single 40's and two-fold 40's require 
the same number of hanks (40 hanks equal 33,600 yards). The technical indication of two-fold in 
spun silk is also correspondingly reversed if compared to cotton, wool and worsted yarn. In cotton, 
wool and worsted yarn the 2 indicating the two-fold is put in front of the counts indicating the size of 
the thread (2/40's), while in indicating spun silk this point is reversed (40/2's), or in present example 
single 80's doubled to 40's. 

B. Raw Silks. 

The adopted custom of specifying the size of raw silk yarns is in giving the weight of the 1000 
yards hank in drams avoirdupois ; thus if one hank weighs 5 drams it is technically known as " 5 dram 
silk," and if it should weigh 81 drams it is technically known as " 8J dram silk." As already men- 
tioned the length of the skeins is 1000 yards, except in fuller sizes where 1000 yard skeins would be 
rather bulky, and apt to cause waste in winding. Such are made into skeins of 500 and 250 yards in 
length and their weight taken in proportion to the 1000 yards; thus if the skein made up into 500 
yards weighs 8|- drams, the silk would be 17-dram silk ; if a skein made up into 250 yards weighs 4 
drams the silk would be 16-dram silk. The size of yarn is always given for their "gum" weight; 
that is their condition " before boiling off," in which latter process yarns lose from 24 to 30 per cent, 
according to the class of raw silk used ; China silks losing the most and European and Japan silks the 
least. The following table shows the number of yards to the pound and ounce from 1 dram 
silk to 30 dram silk. The number of yards given per pound in the table is based on a pound of 
gum silk. 



14 
Length of Gum Silk Yarn per Pound and per Ounce. 

(From I dram to 30 drams.) 



Drams per 


Yards 


Yards 




Drams per 


Yards 


Yards 




Drams per 


Yards 


Yards 


1000 yards. 


per lb. 


per oz. 




1000 yards 


per lb. 


per oz. 




1000 yards. 


per lb. 


per oz. 


1 


256,000 


16,000 


5 


51,200 


3.200 


16 


16,000 


1,000 


i'A 


204, Soo 


r2,8oo 




5Vz 


46,545 


2,909 




17 


15,058 


941 


i'. 


170,666 


10,667 




6 


42,667 


2,667 




18 


14,222 


889 


i# 


146,286 


9 T 43 




6^ 


39,385 


2.462 




19 


13,474 


842 


2 


128,000 


8,000 




7 


36,571 


2,2S6 




20 


12,800 


800 


2'A 


113.777 


7, 1 1 1 




r/z 


34,133 


2,133 - 




21 


12,190 


762 


2/2 


102,400 


6,400 




8 


32,000 


2,000 




22 


11,636 


727 


2% 


93.09 1 


5,818 




8/ 2 


30,118 


1,882 




23 


11,130 


696 


3 


85.333 


5,333 




9 , 


28,444 


1,778 




24 


10,667 


666 


3)4 


78,769 


4.923 




9% 


26,947 


1,684 




25 


10,240 


640 


3'A 


73.143 


4,57i 




10 


25,600 


1.600 




26 


9,846 


615 


zX 


68,267 


4,267 




11 


23,273 


1.455 




27 


9,481 


592 


4 


64,000 


4,000 




12 


21,333 


1,333 




28 


9 M3 


57i 


\% ' 


60,235 


3,765 




13 


19,692 


1,231 




29 


8,827 


55i 


4'A 


56,889 


3,556 




14 


i8,2S6 


i,M3 




30 


8,533 


533 


AH 


53,368 


3,368 




15 


17,067 


1,067 











LINEN YARNS. 

Linen yarns are graded, or have for their standard 300 yards to the hank or " lea," which is the 
same basis for calculations with reference to size, count, or diameter of thread, as the one given for the 
woolen yarn, viz., (cut system) ; hence, rules given for woolen yarn (cut system), will also apply to linen 
yarns by simply changing the denomination. 

Jute Yarns, Chinagrass and Ramie 

Are also graded similar to the woolen yarn (cut system), with 300 yards to the hank, the number of 
hanks required to balance 1 lb. indicating the size or count of the yarn. 



For Reproducing Fabrics in a Required Material From a Given Fabric Made Out of 
Another Material it is Often Necessary to Find the Equivalent Counts, Thus we Give 

Rules for Finding the Equivalent Counts of a Given Thread in 

Another System. 



A. COTTON, WOOLEN AND WORSTED YARN. 

Rule. — The counts of a given thread are the counts of an equal thread (in size) of a different 
material, or a thread of the same material but figured after the different " standard " in the same pro- 
portion as the " standard number " of the one to be found is to the "standard number" of the one 
given. 

Example. — Cotton-Worsted. Find equal size in worsted yarn to 20's cotton yarn. 
(Cotton standard.) : (Worsted standard). 

840 : 560 =3:2 

Thus 20: x: : 2:3 and 3X20=60-4-2=30. 
Answer. — A thread of 20's cotton yarn equals (in size) a thread of 30's worsted yarn. 



15 

Example. — Cotton-Wool (run system). , Find equal size in woolen yarn (runs) to 10's cotton 
yarn. 

(Cotton standard.) : (Run standard.) 

840 : 1,600 =21 : 40 

Thus 10:x: :40:21 and 21x10=210-^40=5^. 
Answer. — A thread of 10's cotton equals (in size) a thread of (i{-run (wool). 

Example. — Cotton-Wool (cut system). Find equal size in woolen yarn (cut basis) to 10's 
cotton yarn. 

(Cotton standard.) : (Cut standard.) 

840 : 300 = 14 : 5 

Thus 10: x :: 5:14 and 14x10=140-^-5=28. 
Answer. — A thread of 10's cotton yarn equals (in size) a thread of 28-cut woolen yarn. 

Example. — Worsted-Wool (run system). Find equal size in woolen yarn (run basis) to 
20's worsted yarn. 

(Worsted standard.) : (Run standard.) 

560 : 1,600 =7.20 

Thus 20 :x:: 20:7 and 7x20=140-^20=7. 
Answer. — A thread of 20's worsted equals (in size) a thread of 7-run woolen yarn. 

Example. — Worsted- Wool (cut system). Find equal size in woolen yarn (cut basis) to lo's 

worsted yarn. 

(Worsted standard.) : (Cut standard.) 

560 : 300 =28:15 

Thus 15 :x:: 15:28 and 15x28=428-^15=28. 
Answer. — A thread of lo's worsted equals (in size) a thread of 28-cut woolen yarn. 

Example. — 'Worsted-Cotton. Find equal size in cotton yarn to 30's worsted. 

30 : x : : 3 : 2and 30 X 2=60-^3=20. 
Ansiver. — A thread of 30's worsted equals (in size) a thread of 20 s cotton yarn. 

Example. — Wool (run system) -Cotton. Find equal size in cotton yarn to a 5^-run woolen 

yarn 

5.25:x::21:40a D d 5.25x40=210^-21 = 10. 

Ansioer. — A 5J-ruu woolen yarn equals (in size) a 10's cotton yarn. 

Example. — 'Wool (run system) -Worsted. Find equal size in worsted yard to a 7-run woolen 

yarn. 

7:x:: 7:20 and 7X2=1404-7=20. 

Answer. — A 7-run woolen yarn equals in size a 20's worsted yarn. 

Example. — Wool (run system) -Wool (cut system). Find equal size in the cut basis for a li- 

.run woolen thread. 

6:x :: 3: 16 and 6X16=96^-3=32. 

Answer. — A 6-ruu woolen thread equals (in size) a 32-cut thread of the same material. 

Example. — 'Wool (eut system) -Cotton. Find equal size of cotton yarn to a 28-cut woolen yarn. 

28:x:: 14:5 and 5x28=140^-14=10. 
Ansioer. — A 28-cut woolen yarn equals (in size) a 10's cotton yarn. 



16 

Example. — Wool (cut system) -Worsted. Find equal size worsted yarn to a 28-cut woolen 
yarn. 

28 :x:: 28:15 and 28X15=420-5-28=15. 
Answer. — A 28-cut woolen yarn equals (in size) a 15's worsted yarn. 

Example. — Wool (cut system) -Wool (run system). Find equal size of the run basis for a 32- 
cut woolen yarn. 

32:x:: 16:3 and 3x32=96-5-16=6. 
Answer. — A 32-cut woolen yarn equals (in size) a 6-run woolen yarn. 

B. SPUN SILK YARNS COMPARED TO COTTON, WOOLEN 

OR WORSTED YARNS. 

As already stated in a previous chapter the basis of spun silk is the same as that of cotton ; 
therefore the rules and examples given under the heading of " Cotton " refer at the same time to spun 
silk. 

C. LINEN YARNS, JUTE AND RAMIE. 

These yarns have the same standard of grading as woolen yarn (cut system) ; thus examples given 
under the latter basis will also apply to the present kind of yarns. 

D. RAW SILK YARNS COMPARED TO SPUN SILK, COTTON, WOOLEN OR 

WORSTED YARNS. 

Rule. — Find the number of yards per pound (in table previously given) in raw silk and divide 
the same by the standard size of the yarn basis to be compared with. 

Example. — Raw Silk- Cotton (or spun silk). Find equal size in cotton yarn to 9-dram raw 
silk. 9-dram raw silk=28,444 yds. per lb. Thus 28,444-5-840 (cotton standard)=33f. 
Answer. — 2-dram raw silk equals (nearly) 34's cotton. 

Or if calculating without a table proceed as follows: 1 lb.=16 oz. 1 oz.=16 drams. Thus 
16X16=256 drams per lb. 

(Counts given.) : (Yards in I hank.) (Drams per lb.) (Yards per lb.) 

9 : 1000 :: 256 : x 

256Xl000=256,000-i-9=28,444i yds. per lb. of 9 drams raw silk. 
(Yards per lb. ) ; : (Basis of yarn to compare with.) 

28,444 -f- 840 =33? 

being with the same result as before. 

Example. — Spun Silk or Cotton to Raw Silk. Find equal size in raw silk to 38's cotton. 
38's cotton=(38 X 840) 31,920 yds. per lb. Refer to previously given table for raw silk, where you 
will find 8 drams to equal 32,000 yards per lb. 

Answer. — A 38's cotton thread equals (nearly) an 8-dramraw silk thread. 

Or if calculating without table find result by : 

Rule. — Divide the standard measure (number of yards per lb.) of the given yarn by 1000 (yards 
in one hank) and the quotient thus obtained into 256. (drams in 1 lb.) 

Example. — Find the answer by this rule for previously given question. 38's eotton=31,920 
yards. Thus 31,920-5-1000=31.92 and 256-5-31,92=8.02. 

Answer. — A 38's cotton thread equals (nearly) an 8-dram raw silk thread. 



17 

Ascertaining the Counts of Twisted Threads Composed of 

Different Materials. 



The above question may often arise when manufacturing fancy yarns and of which it is requisite 
to know the compound size for future calculations. 

RULE A. — If the compound thread is composed of two minor threads of different 
materials, one must be reduced to the relative basis of the other thread and the resulting count found 
in this system. 

Example. — Find equal counts in a single worsted thread to a 2-ply thread composed of 30's 
worsted and 40's cotton yarn. 

40's cotton=60's worsted. Thus, 30X60=1800-^90 (30+60)=20. 
Answer. — Compound thread given in example equals a single 20's worsted thread. 

Example. — Find the equal counts in single cotton yarn to a 2-ply thread composed of single 30's 
worsted and 40's cotton yarn. 

30's worsted=20's cotton. Thus, 40x20=800-=-60 (40-f-20)=13£. 
Answer. — Compound thread given in example equals a single cotton thread of number 13£. 

Example. — Find the equal counts in single woolen yarn (run basis) to a 2-ply thread composed of 
single 20's cotton yarn and 6-run woolen yarn. 

20's cotton=10i-run woolen yarn. Thus, 10|X6=63-=-16| (10A+6)=3t 9 t. 
Answer. — Compound thread given in example equals a single woolen thread of 3 T T-run. 

Example. — Find the equal counts in single woolen yarn (cut basis) to a 2-ply thread composed of 
single 40's cotton and 28-cut woolen yarn. 

40's cotton=112-cut. Thus, 28X112=3136^-140 (28 + 112)=22&. 
Answer. — Compound thread given in example equals a single woolen yarn of 22|-cut. 

Example. — Find the equal counts in single worsted yarn to a 2-ply thread composed of single 20's ' 
worsted and 60's spun silk. 60's silk=90's worsted. Thus, 20X90=1800^110 (204-90) 16A. 
Answer. — Compound thread given in example equals a single 16tVs worsted. 

RULE B.— If the compound thread is composed of three minor threads of two or 
three different materials, they must by means of their relative length be transferred in one basis 
and the resulting count found in this system. 

Example. — Find equal counts in single woolen yarn, run basis, for the following compound thread 
composed of a 3-run, a 6-run woolen thread, and a single 20's cotton twisted together. 

3x6=18-^9 (3+6)=2. 
(3-run and-6 run threads compounded, equal a single 2-run thread.) 
20's cotton equals 10i-run, thus 2 X 101=21 -=-12J (2+10J) =111. 

Answer. — The three-fold thread given in example equals in count a single woolen yarn of lil 
(nearly If) run. 

The previously given example may also be solved as follows : — 20's cotton=10i-run woolen yarn, 
thus, 

10£h-10J=1 

10J-4- 6 =lf l0J-s-6i=liJ. 



10i-s- 3 =3 



_• 



i 



6i 
Answer. — A 3-run, a 6-run woolen thread, and a single 20's cotton twisted together equal in size 
a lU-run woolen thread. 



18 



Ascertaining the Counts for a Minor Thread to Produce, with 

Other Given Minor Threads, Two, Three, or More 

Ply Yarn of a Given Count. 



A. ONE SYSTEM OF YARN. 

In some instances it may be required that the compound thread produced out of two, three, or 
more, minor threads must be of a certain count. We may be requested to twist with a minor thread 
of a given count a minor thread of unknown count (to be ascertained) ; both threads to produce a com- 
pound thread of known count. If such is the case proceed after the following Rule : Multiply the 
counts of the given single thread by the counts of the compound thread, and divide the product by the 
remainder obtained by subtracting the counts of the compound threads from the counts of the given 
single thread. 

Example. — Find size of single yarn required (run basis) to produce with a 4-run woolen yarn a 
compound thread of 3-run. 4x3=12-^1(4— 3)=12. 

Answer. — The minor thread required in the present example is a 12-run thread, or a 4-run and 
a 12-run woolen thread compounded into a 2-fold yarn, are equal in counts to a 3-run single woolen 
thread. 

Proof. — 4Xl2=48-4-16=3-run, or compound thread, as required. 

Example. — Find size of single yarn required (worsted numbers) to produce with a 48's worsted 
thread a compound thread the equal of 16's worsted yarn. 48x16=768-^32(48 — 16)= 24. 

Answer. — The minor thread required in the present example is a 24's worsted thread, or a 48's 
worsted thread and a 24's worsted thread compounded into a two-fold yarn, are equal in counts to a 
single 16's worsted thread. 

Proof. — 48X24=1152-f-72=16's worsted or compounded size required. 

Example. — Find size of single yarn required (cotton numbers) to produce with an 80's cotton 
thread a 2-fold yarn of a compound size of equal 30's cotton yarn. 80X30=2400-^50(80— 30)=48. 

Answer. — The minor thread required in the present example is a 48's cotton thread compounded 
into a 2-fold yarn equal in this compound size to a single 30's cotton thread. 

Proof. — 80x48=3840-^128=30's cotton, or compound size required. 

If one of the minor threads is to be found for a 3-ply thread of which two minor threads are 
known, use the following Rule : Compound the two minor threads given into their equal in a single 
thread, and solve the question by the previously given rule. 

Example. — Find minor thread required to produce with single 30's and single 60's worsted a 3- 
ply yarn to equal single 12's worsted. 60's and 30's worsted compound = (60x30=1800-h90-(60+ 
30)=20) single 20's worsted. 

Thus 20 12 =240-^8 (20 — 12) =30 

( Compound two minor") fw rl f Compound two minor \ f — r ) 

threads of which X Kuo . wn slze of \ threads of which I — Kn ? wn Slze of 3- I 

1 size is known. J \ P^ yarn. J j size is known. j \ P^ y arn - j 

Answer. — The size of the third minor required to be ascertained in the given example is single 
30's worsted yarn, or a 3-ply thread composed of single 30's, 60's, and 30's worsted yarn equals single 
12's worsted counts as shown by the 

Proof— 60 -=- 60 = 1 

60 -=- 30 = 2 60-h5=1 2's worsted. 

60 h- 30 = 2 



19 

B. TWO SYSTEMS OF YARNS. 

Iu the manufacture of fancy yarns we may be called on to select the proper minor thread required 
in another material. This, however, will not change previously given rules, for after finding the counts 
in the given system we only have to transfer the same to the required system. 

Example (2-ply yarn). — Find the size of single worsted yarn required to produce witli an 8-run 
woolen yarn a compound thread of 6-run yarn. 

8x6=48-^2 (8— 6)=24-run woolen yarn required. 
24-run woolen yarn=38,40Q yards per lb. and 38,400h-56O=68t. 
Answer. — The single worsted thread required in given example is 6'8f's. 

Example (3-ply yarn). — Find the size of the spun silk required to produce with a 4U's and liO's 
worsted a 3-ply yarn of equal count to single 1 2's worsted. 40 X 60=2,400h- 100 (40 + 60)=24=com- 
pound size of 40's and 60's. 24x12=288^-12 (24— 12)=24's worsted size required to be trans- 
ferred in spun silk. 

24X560=13,440-^840=16 

Answer. — 16'sspuu silk is required in present example. 



Ascertaining the Amount of Material Required for Each Minor 
Thread in Laying Out Lots for Two, Three, or More Ply Yarn. 



A. DOUBLE AND TWIST YARN. 

Composed of Minor Threads of the Same Material. 

For producing a certain amount of fancy double and twist yarn it is necessary to ascertain the 
amount of stock required for each minor thread. This question will readily be solved by — 

Rule. — The sum of both counts is to the one of the counts, in the same proportion as the amount 
of double and twist yarn required is to the amount of the yarn required for producing, the other minor 
thread. 

Example. — Find amount of material required for each minor thread for producing 1000 lbs. of 
double and twist yarn made out of 6 and 7-run minor threads. 

(6+7)=13:6:: 1,000: x 
(6 + 7)=13:7::l,000:x 

6 x 1,000=6,000 h-13=461A 

7 X 1,000=7,000^13=538A 



1,000 
Answer. — In previously given example the following amount of yarn (of minor threads) is 
required : — 461tV lbs. of 7-run yarn. 
536A " " 6-run yarn. 
Proof.— 461tV lbs. of 7-run yarn=(461 T 'yX ll,200)=5,169,230i? yds. 

538-rV lbs. of 6-run yarn=(538AX 9,600)=5,169,230H yds. 

Example. — Find amount of material required for each minor thread for producing 250 lbs. of 
double and twist yarn made out of 32's and 40's worsted for the minor threads. 

(32+40)=72:32::250:x 

(32 + 40)=72:40::250:x 

32x250= 8,000-^72=1 Hi 

40x250=10,000-^72=138! 

250 



20 

Answer. — For producing 250 lbs. of double and twist worsted yarn composed of 32's and 40's 
for minor threads, 

1111 lbs. of 40's and 1381 lbs. of 32's are required. 
Proof.— lllHbs. of 40's worsted equal (llUx22,400)=2,488,888t yds. 

1381 lbs. of 32's worsted equal (138tXl7,920)=2,488,888! yds. 

Example. — Find amount of material required for each minor thread for producing 1,000 lbs. of 
double and twist cotton yarn made with 60's and 80's for minor threads. 

- (60 + 80) = 140 : 60 :: 1,000 : x 
(60 + 80) = 140 : 80 :: 1,000 : x 

60 X 1,000 = 60,000 -*- 140 = 428f 
80 X 1,000 = 80,000 -*- 140 = 571? 



1,000 
Answer. — For producing 1,000 lbs. of double and twist cotton yarn made out of single 60's and 
80's the following amount of each are required : 

428* lbs. of 80's 
5711 lbs. of 60's 
Proof.— 428* lbs. of 80's cotton equal (428* X 67,200)=28,800,000 yards. 

571? lbs. of 60's cotton equal (571? X 50,400)=28,800,000 yards. 

Composed of Minor Threads of Different Materials. 

If the minor threads are of different materials transfer either one to the relative length of the 
other, and solve example by previously given rule. 

Example. — Find amount of material required for each minor thread to produce 100 lbs. double 
and twist yarn made out of 40-cut woolen yarn and 60's spun silk. 
60's spun silk equals 168-cut. Thus, 

(40 + 168) = 208 : 40 :: 100 : x 
(40 + 168) = 208 : 168 :: 100 : x 

40 X 100 = 4,000 h- 208 = 19A 
168 X 100 = 16,800 -h 208 = 801? 

100 
Answer. — To produce 100 lbs. of double and twist yarn as mentioned in example, 19i? lbs. of 
60's spun silk and 801° lbs. of 40- cut woolen yarn are required. 

Proof— 19A lbs. of 60's spun silk equal to (19rVx50,400)=969,2301! yards. 

8011 lbs. of 40-cut woolen yarn equal (8018 X12,000)=969,230{§ yards. 

As already mentioned in a previous chapter, if twisting silk yarn with a woolen yarn the former 
thread will twist proportionately more around the latter, thus we must add an allowance for it to the 
silk yarn, which in turn we must deduct from the woolen yarn. But as this difference (or allowance) 
is regulated by the turns of twist per inch, also the tension of the yarn when twisting it will vary (as 
little as it will be) in each different d & tw. yarn ; but will be readily ascertained by the manufacturer 
in his practical work. 

B. THREE-PLY YARN. 

Composed of Minor Threads of the Same Material. 

Sometimes it maybe required to find the amount of material for each minor thread for a given 
weight of a 3-ply yarn. If so the example must be solved by 



21 

Jftile. — Transfer the given three counts to their equivalent in a single thread and find number of 
yards required to balance given weight. Afterwards divide each standard (number of yards necessary 
to balance 1 lb.) of the three given minor threads in the number of yards required, the result being 
pounds necessary for each count. 

Example. — Find amount of material required for each minor thread for 100 lbs. of 3-ply yarn, 
produced out of 5, 6 and 7-run woolen yarn for the minor threads. 
5, 6, and 7-run. 
7-5-7=1 
7-5-6=lA 
7h-5=1H 

3M 7 -5-3B= HSf equivalent count in a single thread for 5, 6 and 7-run. 
H§?X1,600=3,140 t Vt yards per lb., X100 lbs. (total amount of yarn wanted) =314,018-r'A total 
number of yards of 3-ply yarn required. 

314,018-5- 8,000 (Standard for 5-run)=39.25 
314,018-5- 9,600 (Standard for 6-run)=32.71 
314,01 8 -5-1 1,200 (Standard for 7-run)=28.04 

100.00 
Answer. — The amount of yarn for each minor thread in given example is as follows: 

39.25 lbs. of 5-run woolen yarn. 
32.71 lbs. of 6-run woolen yarn. 
28.04 lbs. of 7-run woolen yarn. 



100 lbs. Total amount of yarn wanted. 

Composed of Minor Threads of Different Materials. 

If in a 3-ply yarn one of the minor threads is of a different material (compared to the other two), 
transfer this thread to its equivalent count of the other basis, and solve example by previously given rule. 

Example. — Find amount of material required to produce 1,000 lbs. of 3-ply yarn made out of 30's 
worsted, 45's worsted and 60's spun silk. 

60's spun silk equals 90's worsted yarn, thus : 

30—45—90 90-5-90=1 

90-5-45=2 90-5-6=1 5's equivalent count in single thread. 

90-5-30=3 

6 
15X560=8,400 yards per lb. X 1,000 lbs. (total amount of yarn wanted) =8,400,000 total number 
of yards of 3-ply yarn required. 

8,400,000-5-16,800 (Standard for 30's worsted)=500.00 
8,400,000-5-25,200 (Standard for 45's worsted)=333.33 + (£) 
8,400,000-5-50,400 (Standard for 90's worsted)=166.66 + (f) 

1000.00 
Answer. — The amount for each minor thread in given example is as follows : 

500 lbs. of 30's worsted. 
333J lbs. of 45's worsted. 
166$ lbs. of 60's spun silk. 

1,000 lbs. Total amount of yarn wanted. 



22 

Ascertaining the Cost of Two, Three, or More Ply Yarn. 



COMPOSED EITHER OF DIFFERENT QUALITIES (AS TO PRICE) OF YARN 

ONLY, OR OF THE LATTER ITEM IN ADDITION TO DIFFERENT 

COUNTS OF THE MINOR THREADS. 

If a 2-ply yarn is composed of minor threads of equal counts, but different qualities, (as to cost) 
the average between the two prices will be the cost of the 2-ply thread. 

Example. — Find the price for 2/40's worsted composed of minor threads worth respectively $1.00 

and $1.36. 

$1.00+$1.36=$2.36-f-2=$1.18. 

Answer. — The price of the yarn in question is $1.18 per pound. 

By means of the average we will also find the price for a three or more ply yarn provided the 
counts of each minor thread are the same. 

Example. — Find the price for a 3-ply yarn composed of minor threads of equal counts, but costing 
respectively 60 cts., 80 cts. and $1.00 per pound. 

$0.60+$0.80+$1.00=$2.40-^3=$0.80. 

Answer. — The price for the yarn in question is 80 cents. 

If a 2-ply yarn is composed of minor threads of unequal counts as well as of different price we 
must find the cost per pound of the compound thread by — 

Rule. — Multiply each count by the price of the other yarn, next divide the sum of the products 
by the sum of the counts. 

Example. — Find cost per pound for 2-ply yarn composed of 32's and 40's worsted. The price of 
the 32's to be $1.04 and that of the 40's $1.60. 

40X$1.04=$41.60 

32X 160= 51.20 $92.80-w2 — $1.28» 



72 $92.80 

Answer. — The price for the yarn in question is $1.28! or nearly $1.29. 
Proof.— 40's and 32's. 

40X32=1,280-h72(40+32)=17J compound size of thread. 

171X560=9,957 standard number of yards in compound thread, or number of yards of each 
minor thread required. 

40's worsted = 22,400 yards per lb. 

32's worsted = 17,920 yards per lb., thus: 

q Q57 y i an 
22,400:1.60 :: 9,957 :x or 99 4 00 = $0.7112— = 71.12 cents. 

17,920:1.04:: 9,957:x or ' ' ^ ' = $0.5777— = 57.77 " 



Answer.— 128t¥j cents = $1.29. 

If one of the minor threads is of a different material than the other, reduce the one 
thread to its equivalent counts in the basis of the other and find the cost per pound of compound yarn 
by previously given rule. 

Example. — Find cost per pound for 2-ply fancy cassimere yarn, composed of 5-run woolen yarn 
and 40's cotton yarn for minor threads. Value of the single woolen yarn 86 cents per pound, and 
value of the cotton yarn 36 cents. 



23 

40's cotton equals 21-run woolen yarn thus : 

5-run at 86 cents, and 21-run at 36 cents. 

21X86=1,806 1,986+28=76.88 



26 1,986 

Ansicer. — The price of given 2-ply fancy cassimere yarn is 76fVor cents (or about 76 J cents.) 
Proof. — 5 and 21-run. 

5 X 21= 105+26(5+21)=4& compound size. 

4^; X 1,600= 6,461.5 yards length of each minor thread. 

5 run = 8,000 yards per lb. 

21 " =33,600 " " " thus: 

8,000:86:: 6,461.5: x or 86X6,46L5 = 69.46 cents. 

8,000 

33,600:36:: 6,461.5: x or 36 >< 6 _>igli 5 6.92 cents. 

33,600 

Answer. — 76tW cents. 

If a 3-ply yarn is composed of minor threads of unequal counts as well as of a differ- 
ent price, we must find the cost of the compound yarn by 

Rule. — Find average price and compound counts between any two minor threads given, and after- 
wards proceed in the same manner between the respective results and the third minor thread. 

Example. — Find cost per pound of 3-ply fancy yarn composed of the following minor threads : 
60's worsted costing $2.00 per pound ; 40's worsted costing $1.50 per pound ; and 30's worsted costing 
$1.00 per pound. 

60's at $2.00. 40's at $1.50 

60X1.50=90 170.00^100=1.70. 

40X2.00=80 



100 170.00 
$1.70 average price between 60's worsted at $2.00, and 40's at $1.50. 
60X40=2,400-^100 (60+40)=24. 24's worsted compound counts for 60's and 40's worsted ; thus: 

24's worsted at $1.70. 30's worsted at $1.00. 

24X1.00=24.00 75.00^-54=1.3888. 

30X1.70=51.00 



54 75.00 

Answer. — The price for the 3-ply yarn given in the example is $1.3888 or nearly $1.39. 
Proof.— 60's, 40's and 30's worsted. 
60^-60=1 
60+40=1$ 
60+30=2 

\\ 60+4J=13£'s worsted compound counts for 60's, 40's and 30's. 

13£ worsted=13jX560=7,466| yards per pound. 

60's worsted=33,600 yards per lb. at $2.00 
40's worsted=22,400 yards per lb. at $1.50 
30's worsted= 16,800 yards per lb. at $1.00 



24 
33,600:2.00:: 7,4661: x ^^J^ 66 * = $0.4444 
22,400:1.50 :: 7,466f: x h^l^3 = $0.5000 

16,800:1.00:: 7,466|: x l^Z^I = $0.4444 

lb, 800 



Answer:— $1.3888 
Answer. — The price as found before ($1.38) is correct. 

If a 3-ply yarn is composed of minor threads of different materials as well as different 
prices, and we must find the cost per pound for the compound yarn, reduce the different counts to 
their equivalent counts in one basis and find the result by previously given rule. 



To Find the Mean or Average Value of Yarns of Mixed Stocks. 



In the manufacture of mixed yarns wools of different price are frequently mixed together. 
To ascertain the medium price of a mixture when the price and quantity of each ingredient 
are given, use — 

Rule. — Divide the cost of all the ingredients by the sum of the quantities mixed, the quotient will 
be the average value. 

Example. — Find the mean or average value of the following wool mixture: 

160 lbs. costing 75/ per lb. 
160 " " 86/ " " 
40 " " $1.10 " " 
40 " " 1.16 " " 

400 lbs. total amount of wool used in this lot. 

75/ X 160 lbs.=$l 20.00 

85/X160 lbs.= 136.00 
$1.10 X 40 1bs.= 44.00 
$1.16 X 40 1bs.= 46.40 



400 lbs. $346.40 
(Cost of all the Ingredients.) (Sum of the Quantities.) 

$346.40 -r- 400 lbs. =$0,866 

Answer. — The value of the wool mixture is 861V per lb. 

Example. — Find the value per lb. for the following mixture of wool. 

680 lbs. costing 65/ per lb. 

300 " " 68/ " " 

20 " " 98/ " " 



1,000 lbs. in lot. 
65/x680=$442.00 

68/x300= 204.00 $665.60-h1,000=$0.6656 

98/ X 20= 19.60 



$665.60 
Answer. — Wool mixture in question is worth 66^A/' per lb. 



60 



25 

Another question frequently appearing in the mixing of lots for the manufacture of " Mixed 
Yarns" is — 

To Find the Quantity of Each Kind of Wool to Use in a Mixture of a Given Value. 

In such a mixture the total loss on the kinds of wool used of the several prices or qualities must 
equal the total gain. 

Rule. — Arrange the prices of the different kinds of wool, we have at our disposal, in a vertical 
column with the mean price at the left. Next find the gain or loss on one unit of each ; take such an 
additional portion of any as will make the losses balance the gains or vice versa. 

Example. — Two kinds of wool at respective values of 56/ and 63/ per pound are required to be 
mixed to produce a mixture worth 60/. Find quantities of each kind wanted. 

56 + 4X1 =4 gain. 
63— 3Xli=4 loss. 

Answer. — 1 part of the wool costing 56/ and 

1 1 " " " " 63/ are required for 

2J parts to produce a mixture of the required value of 60/. 
Proof.— 1 lb. @ 56/=56/ 

H " @ 63/=84/ 

2 J 140/ 

140-h2£=140-^1= — m =420-^7=60/ average price of mixture per lb. 

Example — Three different qualities of wool at respective values of 60/, 68/ and 70/ per lb. are 
required to be mixed to produce a mixture worth 64/ per lb. Find quantities of each kind required. 

70—6X1 =6 
64 68—4X1 =4_ 10/ loss. 
60+4x2J= 10/ gain. 

Answer.— To produce mixture of a value of 64/ per lb., use — 

1 part from the wool costing 70/ 
1 part from the wool costing 68/ 
1\ parts from the wool costing 60/ in 

4J parts. 

Proof.— 1 lb. @ 70/= 70/ 

1 " @ 68/= 68/ 
21 " @ 60/=150/ 



4| lbs. 288/ 

288h-4.5==64/ average price of mixture per lb. 

Example. — Four different qualities of wool at respective values of 80/, 85/, 96/ and 98/ per lb. 
are required to be mixed to produce a mixture worth 92/. Find quantities of each kind required. 

80 + 12X1 =12 

85+ 7X1 =J7 19/ gain. 

96— 4X1—4 

98— 6X2J— 15 19/ 



26 

Answer. — To produce mixture of wool of a value of 92/ use — 

1 part of the wool costing 80,0 
1 part of the wool costing 85 
1 part of the wool costing 92 
2i parts of the wool costing 98 



Proof.— 



5J parts. 

1 lb. @ 80/= 800 

1 lb. @ 85 = 85 

1 lb. @ 96 = 96 

2| lbs. @ 98 =245 



in 



5 J lbs. 506/ 

506/-j-5.5=92/ being the average price of mixture per lb. 

Another question frequently arising in laying out "wool-lots" is- 



To Find the Quantity of Each Kind to Use When the Quantity of One Kind, the Different 
Prices of Each Kind and the Prices of the Mixture, are Given. 

Example. — What quantity of each kind of wool costing 60/, 80/ and 90^ must be mixed with 20 
lbs. at 71/ so as to bring the mixture to a value of 75/ per lb. 

/ / lbs. 



75, 



60 + 15X 1=15/ 

71+ 4X20=80 

80— 5X 1— ')<■ 
90— 15 X 6—90 

28 



95/ gain. 



95/ loss. 



Answer. — Use 



Proof.- 



1 part or lb. of the wool costing 60/ 
20 parts or lbs. " " " 71 

1 part or lb. " " " 80 

6 parts or lbs. " " " 90 

28 parts or lbs. Mixture so as to bring the price of the latter to 75/ per lb. 

1 lb. @ 60/= 60/ 

20 lbs. @ 71 =1,420 

1 lb. @ 80 = 8 

6 lbs. @ 90 = 540 or 



28 lbs. at 



2,100^'. Hence 2,100/ -7-28=75/ average price of mixture per lb. 



Example. — Having four different lots of wool at respective values of 70/, 74/, 82/ and 84/ on 
hand, how many lbs. of each kind must we use to make up a lot of 500 lbs. costing us 78/ per lb. 

70+ 8X1 =8 
74+ 4X1 =4 

— ■ 12/ gain. 
82— 4XH=6 
84— 6X1 =6 

12/ loss. 

4* 



78 



500-s-4*=lll-J. 



27 



1X1114=1114 lbs. (3 70 

1X1114=1114 " 0< 74 

1X1114=166! " (5 82 

1X1114=1114 " (3 si 



500 lbs. 

j4nsioer. — We must use 1114 lbs. of the lot valued at 70/ per lb. 

1114 " " " " 74 " 

166! " " " " 82 " 

1114 " " " " 84 « 



to make up a lot of 500 lbs. at a value of 7S' - per lb. 

Proof.— 11 14 X 70/=$77.77£ 

1114x74 = 82.221 . 
166SX82 =136.66S 
11HX84 = 92.334 



$390.00— and 500 lbs. at 78/ = also $390.00. 



Reed Calculations. 



The reed is named by numbers, the number in each ease indicating how many splits are in each inch, 
Thus a number 8-reed means a reed with 8 splits in every inch over the required width. If we 
call for number 16J-reed, we want a reed having 16J splits in one inch, equal to 33 dents in every 2 
inches over the entire width of the fabric. Whole numbers or half numbers alone are used for grading 
of reeds. 

Example. — Suppose we have a number 9-reed, four threads in one split or dent, how many 
ends are in one inch ? How many are in full warp if 70 inches wide in reed ? 
Answer. — 9X4=36 ends of warp in one inch. 

X70 width of warp in reed. 



2,520 ends in warp. 

Rule for ascertaining the number of ends in the warp if the reed number, the threads 
per dent and the width of the warp in the reed are known : Multiply the reed number by the 
threads per dent and multiply the result by the width of the warp in reed. 

Example. — How many ends are in the warp if using 131-reed, 6 threads per dent, 80 inches wide 
in reetl ? 

13JX 6=81X80=6,480. 
Ansu'er. — 6,480 ends are in warp. 

Rule for ascertaining the reed number, if the number of ends in the warp and the width 
in the reed are known, the threads per dent, either given or to be selected, according to the 
fabric : Divide the number of ends in the warp by the width in the reed, which gives the number of 
threads per inch ; divide this result again by the number of threads in one dent according to the weave 
or pattern required, the answer being the reed (number) required. 



28 

Example. — 6,480 ends in warp, 80 inches wide in reed. How many ends per inch and what reed is 
required if 6 ends per dent are to be used ? 

6,480-5-80=81 -5-6=1 3|. 
Answer. — 81 ends per inch and 13| is the reed number required. 

Rule for ascertaining the width of the warp in the reed if the reed number, the threads 
per dent, and the number of threads in the warp are known : Divide the number of ends in 
the warp by the number of ends per inch, giving as the result the number of inches the warp will 
be in the reed. 

Example. — Find width in reed for fabric made with 3,600 ends in warp, reeded 3 threads per dent 

in a number 12-reed. 

12X3=36 3,600-5-36=100. 

Answer. — The width of the fabric in reed is 100 inches. 

Example. — Find width in reed for fabric made with 4,752 ends in warp, reeded 4 threads per 

dent in a number 16^-reed. 

16|X4=66 4,752-5-66=72 

Answer. — The width of the fabric in reed is 72 inches. 

The number of ends to put in one dent has to be regulated according to the fabric and the weave. 
Experience is- the only guide for this. The coarser the reed, to a certain extent, the easier the picks go 
into the fabric. The finer the reed, the smoother the goods, and with perfect reeds, the less reed marks. 

The same number of ends are not always used in each dent, but in such a case the preceding rules 
may be used with the average number of threads per dent. 

Example. — What are the threads per inch ? Reed number 20, using one dent, 4 ends — one dent 

5 ends. 

(Average threads per dent.) (Number of reed.) 

4+5=9-5-2 = 4i X 20 = 90 

Answer. — 90 threads per inch. 

Example. — What are the threads per inch? Reed number 18, using 1 dent, 3 ends — 1 dent, 4 
ends — 1 dent, 3 ends — 1 dent, 6 ends. 

(Threads in four dents.) (Average thread per dent.) (Number of reed.) 
3+4+3+6 =16-5- 4 x 18 = 72 

Answer. — 72 threads per inch. 

Sometimes it happens that the average number of threads includes an inconvenient fraction. To 
avoid a calculation with this fraction, multiply the sum of the contents of the dents by the dents per 
inch, and then divide by the dents per set. 

Example. — What are the threads per inch, warp reeded as follows in number 12-reed : 1 dent, 5 
threads — 1 dent, 3 threads — 1 dent, 3 threads. 

3+3+5=11X12=132-5-3=44. 
Answer. — 44 threads per inch. 

Example. — What are the threads per inch, warp reeded as follows in a number 15-reed: — 1 deut, 
4 threads — 1 dent, 4 threads — 1 dent 5 threads. 

4+4+5=13X15=195-5-3=65 

Answer. — 65 threads per inch. 



29 

Warp Calculations. 



TO FIND WEIGHT OF WARP IF NUMBER OF ENDS, COUNTS AND LENGTH 

ARE GIVEN. 

Multiply number of ends in the width of the cloth by yards in length (dressed), and divide pro- 
duct by the number of yards of the given count per pound. 

Example. — Cotton Yarn. Find weight of warp, 50 yards long, 2,800 ends, single 40's cotton in 
warp. 

2,800 X 50=140,000 yards. 40 X 840=33,600 yards per lb. in 40's cotton. 

140,000 -r-33,600=4L 

Answer. — The weight of the warp in the present example is 41 lbs. 

Example. — Woolen Yarn (run system). Find weight of warp, 40 yards long, 3,(500 ends, 4|- 
run woolen yarn. 

3,600X40=144,000 yards. 4J-run= 7,200 yards. 144,000^-7,200=20. 

Answer. — The weight of the warp in present example is 20 lbs. 

Example — Woolen Yarn (cut system). Find weight of warp, 45 yards long, 4,800 ends, 32-cut 
woolen yarn. 

4,800X45=216,000 yards. 32-cut=9,600 yards. 216,000h-9,600=22± 

Answer. — The weight of the warp in the present example is 22 J lbs. 

Example. — Worsted Yarn. Find weight of warp. 60 yards long, 6,000 ends, 2/60's worsted yarn. 

2/60's worsted=16,800 yards. 6,000X60=360,000 yards. 360,000-^16,800=21?. 
Answer. — The weight of the warp in present example is 21? lbs. 

If two or more different kinds of yarn are used, ascertain number of threads iu warp for each 
kind by proportion, and solve answer (for each kind) by previously given rule. 

Example. — Find weight of warp, 50 yards long, 6,000 ends. 

Dressed. — 2 ends 2/60's worsted. 
1 end 2/50's cotton. 

3 ends in repeat. 
6,000-^3=2,000 

2,000X2=4,000 ends 2/60's worsted in warp. 
2,000X1=2,000 ends 2/50's cotton in warp. 



6,000, complete number of ends in warp. 

4,000X50=200,000 yards. 2/60's worsted=l 6,800 yards. 200,000^-16,800=ll*f. 
2,000X50=100,000 2/50's cotton=21, 000 yards. 100,000-^21,000=4^ 

Answer. — The weights of the warp in present example are : 

1H! lbs. of 2/60's worsted. 
4H " " 2/50's cotton. 

16W lbs.=16§ lbs. total weight of both kinds of yarn. 



30 



Example. — Find weight of warp for each kind of yarn separately in the following example: 



Lengths of warp 50 yards. 
Dressing. — 4 ends 4-run woolen yarn 



4 
4 
4 
16 
2 
2 
2 
2 



4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 
4 



Number of ends 4,800. 
blue 
black 
brown 
black 
olive mix 
blue 
black 
brown 
black 
olive mix 



48 threads in repeat of pattern. 

(Number of ends in warp.) (Threads in one repeat of pattern.) (Number of repeats of patterns in warp.) 



4,800 -s- 

J Ends of each kind ) 
\ of yarn in one pattern, f 

6 ends blue 
6 " brown 
12 " black 
24 " olive mix 



48 

I Number of repeats 1 
i of patterns in warp. ) 



X 


100 


X 


100 


X 


100 


X 


100 



100 

J Threads of each 1 

\ kind of yarn in full warp. ) 

600 

■600 

1,200 

2,400 



48 threads in one repeat of pattern. 
4-run woolen yarn=6,400 yards per lb. 

600X50= 30,000-^6,400= 4H 
i;(K)X50= 30,000-=-6,400= 4H 
1,200X50= 60,000-^-6,400= 9A (or 9 I) 
2,400X50=120,000-=-6,400=18ii (or 181) 



4,800 threads in warp. 



Proof.— 4,800 X 50=240,000 -=-6,400=37 A (or 371) 

Answer. — The different amounts of yarn required for given example are: 

4ts lbs. of 4-run blue woolen yarn. 
4tt " 4 " brown " " 
91 " 4 " black " " 
18! " 4 " olive mix " " 

This method of finding the weight for different warp yarns is no doubt the easiest to understand 
by any student, and will solve the most complicated arrangements of dressings and variety of yarns 
used. 

The latter example can also be solved by — 

Rule. — Find total weight of warp yarn required and divide in proportion to each kind of yarn 
used. 

4,800 X 50=240,000-=-6,400=37A lbs. total weight. 

6 blue =1 

6 brown =1 
12 black =2 
24 olive =4 



37fV-=-8=4U for each part. 



8 



31 

Answer. — 1X41 1 ! .', lbs. of 4-run blue woolen 

1X4!' m " " 4 " brown " 

2X4M= 91 " " 4 " black " 

4X4ti=18f " " 4 " olive mix " 



37A (or 37|) lbs. total weight. 

If weight of warp is required to be found for one yard only, the answer may be required 
expressed in ounces; if so, change fraction of pounds in ounces, or use rules given previously under 
"Grading of the Various Yarns," after finding the number yards of yarn required. 

When required to ascertain the weight of a warp dressed with yarns of various counts, 
and answer required is for the total weight of warp only, we may solve question by finding the 
average counts of the threads in question, and deal with this average count and the entire number of 
ends dressed, the same as if all the yarns used are of one count. 

The average counts of two or more threads we find by — 

Rule A. — Multiply the compound size of the given counts of yarn by number of threads com- 
pounded, or we may use 

Rule B. — Divide any one of the given counts by itself and by the others given in rotation, multiply 
each quotient by the numbers of threads of the kind used in one repeat of pattern ; next multiply pre- 
viously used common dividend with the numbers of threads in one repeat of pattern, and divide the pro- 
duct by the sum of the quotients obtained. Either of these two rules will fiud the average counts. 
Rule A answers when using short repeats of patterns, and Rule B is adopted for large repeats. 

Example. — Find average counts for the following dressing of a warp : 

2 ends 30-cut woolen yarn. 
1 end 20-cut " " 

3 ends in repeat of pattern. 
Using Rule A, we get 

30-^30=1 30-^-3|=8* compound size. 

30^30=1 

30-r-20=l| 8* X 3=25} average counts. 

Answer. — The average counts are 25f-cut. 

Using Rule B, we get 

j 
I 

30h-30 = 

30-^20 li 



Quotient. 




Threads of each kind 
in pattern. 


1 


X 


2 


1* 


X 


1 



30x3=90-H-3i=25f 
Answer. — The average counts by Rule B are also 2o?-cut. 
Example. — Find weight per yard for a. warp of 3,600 ends, 

Dressed. — 2 ends face 30-cut woolen yarn. 
1 end back 20-cut woolen yarn. 

3 ends in pattern. 
2/30-cut and l/20-cut=25y-cut average size. 
25fX300= 7,714= yards per lb. 
3,600 X 16=57,600-h7,714|=7.46 



6 2 



32 

Answer. — Weight of warp per yard is 7.46 oz. 

Proof. — 

3,600 ends, dressed : ( ? ^ l®'™ 1 ' 3,600-s-3=l,200 

I 1 end 20-cnt. 

1,200X2=2,400 yards of 30-cnt (9,000 yards per lb.) 2,400x16=38,400—9,000=4.26 oz. 
1,200X1=1,200 yards of 20-cnt (6,000 yards per lb.) 1,200 X 16=19,200-^6,000=3.20 oz. 



7.46 oz. 
Example. — Find weight, per yard, for a warp of 4,800 threads, dressed as follows : 

2 ends face 6-run. 6-^6=1 X2=2 
1 end back 4-run. 6-=-4=l|Xl = H 

3 ends in pattern. 3£ 
6 X 3=18 -^3i=5f-run X 1,600=8,228.57 yards. 

4,800 X 16=76,800^-8,228.57=9.33. 

Answer. — Weight of warp, per yard is 9.33 oz. 

Proof. — 

4,800 ends, dressed: { 2 . eD( J S < j" rUD- 4,800-^3=1,600 

{ 1 end 4-run. ' 

1,600 X 2=3,200 yards of 6-run (9,600 yards per lb.). 
1,600 X 1 = 1,600 yards of 4 run (6,400 yards per lb.). 

3,200x16=51,200^-9,600=5.33 oz. 

1,600 Xl6=25,600-=-6,400=4.00 oz. 



9.33 oz. 

Example. — Find the average counts for the following dressing of a warp : 

2ends60's 60-^60=1x2=2 

lend 20's 60-^20=3x1=3 

lend 10's . 60^-10=6X1=6 

4 ends in repeat of pattern. 11 

60 X 4=240-^1 1=21i 9 t 

Answer. — The average counts are 21tYs. 

Proof — (Using the same rule, but a different count, for dividend.) 

10-60= iX2= i 
10—20= iXl= i 
10-10=1 Xl=l 

K 

10 X 4=40— 11=¥^-V =¥ Xt 6 t=240-4-1 1 =21tVs. 

Proof. — (Using Rule A.) 

60—60= 1 
60-f-60= 1 
60 -20= 3 60h-11=5Ax4=21tVs. 

60-=-10= 6 
11 



33 

Example. — Find weight per yard for a warp of 2,850 ends, dressed as follows . 

20 ends 40's cotton 

1 end 50's " 

16 ends 30's " 

1 end 50's " 

38 ends in repeat of pattern. 
40-f-40=l X 20=20 =20 
40-5-30=11 x16=2U=21tV 
40-5-50= IX 2= 11= 1A 



40x38=1,520-s-42tS=35AVs average counts. 
35^X840=29,869.56 yards per lb. 
2,850 X 16=45,600-5-29,869.56=1.52 oz. 



38 42H 

Answer. — The weight of given warp in example is 1.52 oz. 
Proof. — 2,850-7-38=75 repeats of pattern in warp. 

20X75=1,500 ends of 40's cotton. (33,600 yards per lb.) 

16 X 75=1,200 ends of 30's cotton. (25,200 yards per lb.) 

2x75= 150 ends of 50's cotton. (42,000 yards per lb.) 

1,500 X 16=24,000-8-33,600=0.71 

1,200 X 16=19,200-5-25,200=0.76 

150X16= 2,400-5-42,000=0.05 



1.52 oz. (being the same answer.) 
Rules given refer to finding the weight of a warp in its original length, technically known as 
" dressed." During weaving and the process of finishing, in most cases, the warp will shrink or " take 
up," thus if figuring for weight of warp in a cloth from loom, or also when finished, we must calculate 
back to the original number of yards required dressed, to produce a certain number of yards of cloth 
either woven or finished ; or in other words, take the percentage for either or both " take ups," as the 
case may require, into consideration. Rules governing the "take ups" in a fabric cannot be given. 
They are guided by the cloth required, nature of material, twist, amount of intersections in weave, pro- 
cess of finishing, etc., in fact, practical experience is necessary to designate accurately these points. 

A table of relative lengths of inches dressed, and one yard woven, with reference to a "take up" 
during weaving, from 1 per cent, to 50 per cent., (which also can be used for " take up " of warps during 
finishing) is found in my " Technology of Textile Design," on page 266, in the chapter on "Ascertain- 
ing the weight of cloth per yard from the loom. 

TO FIND THE COUNTS FOR WARP YARN IF NUMBER OF ENDS IN WARP, 

AND AMOUNT OF MATERIAL, LENGTH AND WEIGHT 

TO BE USED, ARE GIVEN. 

Multiply the ends in warp by the length, multiply the basis of the yarn in question bv the weight, 
next divide the latter product in the one previously obtained. 

Example. — Cotton Yarn. Find counts of yarn required — 2,800 ends in warp, 50 yards long, 
weight 4f lbs. 

2,800 X 50=140,000-=-3,500 (4$ X 840) =40 

Answer. — 40's cotton yarn is required. 

Example. — Woolen Yarn (run system). Find counts of yarns required — 3,600 ends in warp, 
40 yards long, weight 20 lbs. 

3,600X40=144,000-5-32,000 (1,600X20) =4J 
Answer, — The yarn required to be used in example given, is 4|-run, 



34 

Example. — Woolen Yarn (cut system). Find counts of yarn required — 4,800 ends in warp, 
15 yards long, weight 22J lbs. 

4,800 X 45=216,000 -=-6,750 (300 X22|)=32 
Answer. — 32-cut yarn is required. 

Example. — 'Worsted Yarn. Find counts of yarn required — 6,000 ends in warp, 60 yards long, 

weight of warp 21 f lbs. 

6,000X60=360,000 -=-12,000 (2HX560) =30 

Answer. — Single 30's (or 2/60's) worsted yarn are required. 

TO FIND NUMBER OF THREADS IN WARP TO USE, IF COUNTS OF YARN, 
LENGTHS AND WEIGHT OF WARP, ARE GIVEN. 

Multiply counts by basis of yarn and weight of warp, and divide product by length of warp. 

Example. — Cotton Yarn. Find number of ends for warp, 40's cotton, 50 yards long to dress, 
weight of yarn on hand 4i lbs. 

40 X 840 X 4i= 140,000 -=- 50= 2,800 

Answer. — Use 2,800 ends in warp. 

Example. — Woolen Yarn (run system). Find number of ends for warp 4J-run woolen yarn, 40 
yards long to dress, weight of yarn to use 20 lbs. 

41 X 1,600 X 20= 144,000^40=3,600 

Answer. — Use 3,600 threads in warp. 

Example. — Woolen Yarn (cut system). Find number of ends for warp, 32-cut yarn, 45 yards 
long to dress, 22J lbs. weight of yarn on hand. 

32X300X221=216,000 -=-45=4,800 
Answer. — Use 4,800 threads in warp. 

Example. — Worsted Yarn. Find number of ends for warp, 2/60's worsted, 60 yards length of 
warp required, 21 f lbs. amount of yarn on hand. 

2/60's worsted=l/30's ; thus: 30x560x211=360,000-^-60=6,000. 

Answer. — Use 6,000 threads in warp. 

TO FIND THE LENGTH FOR A WARP, IF NUMBER OF ENDS IN WARP, 
COUNTS AND WEIGHT OF YARN, ARE GIVEN. 

Multiply counts by basis of yarn and weignt oi\ warp, and divide product by number of ends 
in warp. 

Example. — Cotton Yarn. Find length of warp, 2,800 threads in width, 40's cotton yarn, weight 

of yarn on hand 4\ lbs. 

40 X 840 X 4i=140,000-=- 2,800=50. 

Answer. — The length for the warp is 50 yards. 

Example. — Woolen Yarn (run system). Find length of warp, 3,600 threads in width, 4i-run 
woolen yarn, weight of yarn on hand 20 lbs. 

4 1 X 1 ,600 X 20=144,000 -=-3,600=40. 

Answer. — The length for the warp is 40 yards. 



35 

Example. — Woolen Yarn (cut system). Find length of warp, 4,800 threads in width, 32-cut 
yarn, 221 lbs. weight of yarn on hand. 

32 X 300 X 22 1=2 1 6,000-5-4,800=45. 
Answer. — The length for the warp is 45 yards. 

Example. — Worsted Yarn. Find length of warp, 6,000 threads in width, 2/60's worsted, 
21? lbs. weight of yarn on hand. 

2/60's worsted=l/30's worsted; thus: 30x560x21?=360,000-5-6,000=60. 
Answer. — The length for the warp is 60 yards. 

Example. — Cotton Yarn (2-ply). Find length of warp (for extra super in^ain rarpet) 1,072 ends, 
2/14's cotton yarn, weight of yarn on hand 50 lbs. 

2/14's cotton=l/7's cotton. Thus: 7 X 840X50=294,000-^1,072=274^ 
Answer. — The length for the warp is 274{ (actual 274U) yards. 

Proo/ — 274if X l,072 =2?4ij 2 72=294 b amount f lbs. of yarn on 

5,880(7X840) 8 J 

hand. 

Example. — Worsted Yarn (3-ply). Find length of warp 4,800 ends in width of fabric, 3/60's 
worsted yarn, weight of yarn on hand 80 lbs. 

3/60's worsted=l/20's worsted. Thus : 20x560x80=896,000-5-4,800=186f. 
Answer. — The length for the warp is 186f yards. 

1 86 2 y4 fiOO 
Proof.— 2 1 OHO (30 560 = 1 86fX4,800=2,688,000-5-ll,200=80, being the amount of pounds 

of yarn on hand. 

When two or more different materials are used in the construction of a cloth, previously 
given rules for warp must be solved by combining one repeat, or the average of one repeat, of pattern 
in a compound thread ; and if required by question, after finding answer in such a compound thread, 
we must transfer the same to the respective minor threads. 

To give a clear understanding to the student, we give, correspondingly to previously given rules, 
one example in three different changes. 



Example. — Find counts of yarn required, 4,800 ends in warp. 
Dressed. — 2 ends face. 
1 end back, 



I Woolen yarn, run basis. 



3 ends in repeat. 
Back-warp threads to be twice as heavy as to size as face warp threads. Length of warp, 50 
yards. Weight of same to be 40 lbs. 

4,800-5-3=1,600 repeats of pattern, or 1,600 compound threads. 
1,600x50=80,000-5-64,000 (l,600X40)=l£-run compound size. 
1|X4=5 liX2=2J 

2 ends face @ 5-run. 



Answer. — The dressing in example given will be 
Proof.— 5_5_2J 



1 end back @ 2J-run. 
3 ends in repeat. 



5-5-5 =1 

5-5-5 =1 5-5-4=1^ compound size. 

5-5-21=2 



36 

4,800 ends in warp-5-3 ends in repeat of dressing=l,600 compound threads of 1 j-run. 

1,600X50 yards long. 
80)000 3 ^ UX 1,600=2,000. 

2,000: 1 :: 80,000: x =80,000-5-2,000=40 lbs.=the weight given in the example. 

Example. — Find number of ends for the following warp : 

Dressing. — 2 ends face warp, 5-rtin. . 

., iii. r.i Length of warp 50 yards. Weight of same, 40 lbs. 

1 end backing warp, 2J-run. b L J ° 

3 ends in repeat. 

5-5-5 =1 

5-5-5 =1 5-^4=1^ compound size of the 3 threads in repeat of pattern. 

5-r-2i=2 

— l£-run=2,000 yards per lb., hence 
4 

40X2,000= 80,000 yards of the compound thread in the amount of weight required. 
8,000-5-50 (Length of warp.) =1,600 
1,600 X 3 (Number of threads in compound count.) =4,800 

Answer. — 4,800 threads are required for warp given in example. 

Proof.— 4,800 threads, dressed : 2 fac ^ . 5 " r ™' 

1 backing 2|-run. 

3 threads in repeat. 
4,800-j-3=1,600 

1,600X2=3,200 threads 5-run (8,000 yards per lb.) 
1,600X1 = 1,600 threads 2^-run (4,000 yards per lb.) 

3,200X50 (length of warp) 160,000-5-8,000=20 lbs. 
1,600X50 (length of warp) 80,000-5-4,000=20 lbs. 

40 lbs. weight given in example. 

Example. — Find length of warp required — 4,800 threads in width of cloth. 

Dressing. — 2 ends face 5-run woolen yarn I w . , . c , . .„ ,. 

- , , , , Weight of complete warp 40 lbs. 

1 end back 2i-run woolen yarn I 



5-5-5 *=1 
5-5-5 =1 
5^2J=2 



3 ends in repeat. 
5 -5-4=1 J compound size. 
l|;-run=2,000 yards per lb. 
2,000 X 40=80,000 yards of the compound thread in the amount of weight required. 



80,000-5-1,600 (Number of compound threads in width.) =50. 
Answer. — 50 yards, length of warp required in given example. 

Proof. — 

(2 face, 5-run 1 

, , , 01 > =1,600 threads li-run. 

1 back, 2i-run / 

3 threads repeat. 

{Length of warp re- ) f Number of yards in "l , A ,, . , , c , , 

quired by answer \ =80 000-5-2 000 iX-mn or com- [ = 40 lbs - weight of complete warp, 
in example. J ( pound count. ) as given in example. 



37 

Filling Calculations. 



TO FIND LENGTH OF FILLING YARN REQUIRED FOR PRODUCING ONE OR 
A GIVEN NUMBER OF YARDS OF CLOTH, IF PICKS PER INCH 
AND WIDTH OF CLOTH IN REED, (INCLUDING 
SELVAGE) ARE KNOWN. 

Rule. — Multiply picks per inch by width of fabric in reed, the product will be number of inches 
of filling yarn required for one inch cloth, or, at the same time, number of yards of filling yarn 
required for one yard of cloth. By simply multiplying yards of filling required for one yard of cloth, 
with the yards of cloth given in example, we get in product number of yards of filling yarn required 
for given yards of cloth. 

Example. — Find yards of filling required for a, one yard 6, 8 yards of cloth woven 72 inches 
wide in reed, with 52 picks per inch. 

52X72=3,744 | 3,744x8=29,952 

Ansioer. — One yard cloth requires 3,744 yards filling. Eight yards cloth require 29,952 yards filling. 

TO FIND WEIGHT OF FILLING YARN REQUIRED, EXPRESSED IN OUNCES, 

PRODUCING ONE YARD OF CLOTH, IF PICKS PER INCH, 

WIDTH OF CLOTH IN REED, AND THE COUNTS 

OF YARN ARE KNOWN. 

Rule. — Multiply picks by width of warp in reed, and divide product by number of yards of the 
known count required to balance 1 oz. 

Example. — Cotton Yarn. Find weight of filling required for one yard cloth of the following 
description : 64 picks per inch, 6S inches reed space occupied, single 20's cotton yarn. 

64X68=4,352 yards. 1/20's cotton= 16,800 yards per lb. or 1,050 yards per oz. 

4,352^1,050=4.14. 

Answer. — The weight of filling required is 4.14 oz. per yard. 

Example. — Woolen Yarn. Find weight of filling required for one yard cloth having 52 picks 
per inch, 72 inches reed space, 4-run yarn. 

4-run=(4 X 100)=400 yards per oz. 52 X 72=3,744-=-400=9.36 
Ansioer. — 9.36 oz. is the weight of the filling required per yard. 

Example. — Worsted Yarn. Find weight of filling necessary for one yard cloth having 68 picks 
per inch, 61 inches reed space, 2/36's worsted yarn. 

68 X 61 =4,148. 2/36's worsted =10,080 yards per lb. or 630 yards per oz. 4,148^-630=6.59 oz. 

Answer. — The weight of filling required is 6.59 oz. 

TO FIND WEIGHT OF FILLING YARN REQUIRED (expressed in pounds or frac- 
tion thereof,) FOR ANY NUMBER OF GIVEN YARDS, IF PICKS PER 
INCH, WIDTH OF CLOTH IN REED, AND THE 
COUNTS OF YARN, ARE KNOWN. 

Rule. — Multiply picks by width in reed and the number of given yards, next divide product thus 
derived by the number of yards of the known count per pound. 



38 

Example. — Cotton Yarn. Find weight of filling required for 40 yards of cloth woven with 68 
picks per inch, 70 inches reed space and 30's cotton yarn. 

68X70=4,760X40=190,400 30X840=25,200 190,400^-25,200=71. 

Ansioer. — Weight of filling required in given example is 71 lbs. 

Example. — 'Woolen Yarn. Find weight of filling required for 120 yards of cloth woven with 
44 picks per inch, 71 inches reed space and 22-cut woolen yarn. 

44X71=3,124X120=374,880 22X300=6,600 374,880n-6,600=56.8. 

Answer. — Weight of filling required in given example is 56.8 pounds. 

Example. — 'Worsted Yarn. Find weight of filling required for 600 yards of cloth, woven with 
64 picks per inch, 62 inches reed space, 2/32's worsted. 

64X62=3,968X600=2,380,800. 16X560=8,960 2,380,800h-8,960=265?. 

Answer. — Weight of filling required in given example is 265!lbs. 

If two or more different kinds of filling yarn are used, and it is required to ascertain 
weight of material for each kind, the solving of the example depends entirely on the arrangement 
of colors used and their respective counts. 

If the counts are equal, and lots differ only in color or twist, ascertain the weight for the 
entire filling required by previously given rules, and find answer for each kind by proportion of picks 
as used of each kind. 

Example. — Find weight (in ounces) for filling required per yard in the following fabric : 

Arrangement of filling. — 4 picks brown 6-run woolen yarn. 

6 " black 6-run " " 

4 " blue 6-run " " 

6 " black 6-run " " 

20 picks in repeat of pattern. 

72 inches reed space of fabric. 84 picks per inch. 

84X72=6,048 yards of filling per yard cloth. 

6,048-^600 | ar in s 6_ r un T y^ r ° Z ' [ =10.08 oz. complete weight of filling required per yard cloth. 



thus: 10.08-^5=2.016 



Brown 4 picks=l 

In one repeat we find : Blue 4 picks=l 

Black 12 picks=3 

20 picks. 5 

Answer. — 2.016X1 or 2.016 oz. brown filling ^ 

2.016X1 or 2.016 oz. blue ,( V required per yard of cloth woven. 

2.016X3 or 6.048 oz. black " j 



Proof. — (+) 10.080 total weight of filling required for one yard cloth woven. 



39 

Example. — Find weight in pounds of filling required for weaving 2,000 yards of cloth of the 
following dimensions : Reed space 64 inches — picks per inch 66. 

Arrangement. — 2 picks 2/32's worsted black. 

2 " 2/32's " brown. 

2 " 2/32's " black. 

2 " 2/32's " olive. 

8 picks in repeat of pattern. 

66X64=4,224X2,000=8,448,000 yards of filling required for 2,000 yards of cloth. 

2/32's worsted=8,960 yards and 8,448,000^-8,960=942? lbs. total weight of filling required for 
the 2,000 yards cloth. 

Black 4 picks in one repeat of color arrangement =2 
Brown 2 " " " " " =1 

Olive 2 " " " " " =1 

8 picks. 4 Thus: 

942?h-4=235? 



Answer. — 235? X 1 =235? lbs. 2/32's olive worsted ~) Amount of filling required 

2351X1=2351 " 2/32's brown " - for weaving 2,000 yards 

235?X2=471? " 2/32's black " j cloth. 



Proof.— ( + ) 942? lbs. total weight of all 3 kinds filling for 2,000 yards cloth. 

If filling yarns of different counts or materials are used, find number of yards of yarn of 
each kind required for given number of yards, and transfer the same to their respective weight (in oz. 
or lbs. as required) by means of rules given previously under the heading of " Grading Yarns." 

Example. — Find weight in ounces for filling required per yard in the following fabric : 

Arrangement. — 10 picks black 4- run woolen yarn. 
2 " blue 6 " " " 

12 picks in repeat of pattern. 

70 inches reed space of fabric. 64 picks per inch. 

64X70=4,480 yards of filling required per yard of cloth. 

10 picks black =5 
2 picks blue =1 

12 picks in repeat 6 Thus : 4,480-r-6=746f 

746§X1= 746| yards blue 6-run l 

746f X 5=3,733 J " black 4-run } filhn S re< * uired for oue ^ ard of cloth ' 

746j yards 6-run=( 746 § -^600)= 1.24 oz. 
3,733£ " 4-run=(3,733|^-400)=9.33 oz. 

Arwver. — 1.24 oz. 6-run blue filling and 
9.33 " 4-run black filling, or 



10.57 oz. complete weight of filling required for weaving one yard cloth. 



40 

Example. — Find weight in pounds of filling required for weaving 3,500 yards of cloth of the 
following details : Reed space 72 inches, 84 picks per inch. 

Arrangement. — 2 picks 32-cut woolen yarn, brown. 

1 pick 14 " " " black. 

2 picks 32 " " " blue. 
1 pick 14 " « " black. 

6 picks in repeat. 

84X72=6,048X3,500=21,168,000 complete yards of filling required. 

2 picks 32-cut brown=l 
2 " 32 " blue =1 
2 " 14 " black =1 

6 picks in repeat. 3 Thus : 

21,168,000^-3=7,056,000 yards of filling required of each kind. 

7,056,000-=-9,600 (standard of 32-cut)=735 lbs. 
7,056,000=4,200 (standard of 14-cut)=l,680 lbs. 

Answer. — In given example the following amounts of filling are required : 

735 lbs. 32-cut brown woolen yarn. 
735 " 32-cut blue " " 



3,150 lbs. complete weight of filling required for weaving the 3,500 yards of cloth. 

TO FIND THE COUNTS FOR A FILLING YARN REQUIRED TO PRODUCE A 
CERTAIN GIVEN WEIGHT PER YARD CLOTH (in which also 
the picks per inch and width in reed are known). 

If such example refers to weight given in ounces for one yard, use — 

Rule. — Multiply picks by width of fabric in reed, and divide product by number of oz. given, 
and the quotient by the sixteenth part of the number of yards in the basis of the yarn in question. 

Example. — Worsted Yarn. Find counts for filling yarn required of following cloth. 90 picks 
per inch, 58J inches width of fabric in reed. 5 oz. weight for filling to be used. 

90X58|=5,250 -=-5=1,050 --35(560 ^-16 =35) =30. 

Answer. — The counts for filling yarn required are either single 30's or 2/60's worsted yarn. 

Proof. — 90x58^=5,250(yards wanted) -4- l,050(yards per oz.)=5 oz. weight of filling per yard. 

Example. — Woolen Yarn (cut basis). Find counts for filling yarn required of following cloth : 
45 picks per inch, 75 inches width of fabric in reed, 9 oz. weight for filling to be used. 

45 X 75=3,375^9=375^18|=20. 

Answer. — The counts for filling yarn required are 20-cut woolen yarn. 

If example refers to a given number of yards and weight is expressed in pounds, use — 

Rule. — Multiply width of fabric (in loom or in reed) with the number of picks per inch, and the 
result with the given yards of cloth to be woven ; the result thus obtained divide by the given weight, 
and the quotient by the basis of the yarn. 



41 

Example. — Woolen Yarn (run basis), rind counts for filling yam required of following cloth: 
Reed space occupied 663 inches, 72 picks per inch, 40 yards length of cloth to be woven, 30 lbs. 
amount of filling to be used. 

66|X72=4,800X40= 192,000-8-30=6,400 -5-1, 600=4. 

Answer. — Counts for yarn required are 4-run woolen yarn. 

Example. — Cotton Yarn. Find counts for filling yarn required for following cloth. Heed space 

occupied 30 inches, 80 picks per inch, 70 ya«ds length of cloth to be woven, 10 lbs. amount of filling 

to be used. 

30X 80=2,400 X 70=168,000 -=-10=16,800-5-840=20 

Answer. — Counts for yarn required are 20's cotton yarn. 

TO FIND THE PICKS PER INCH FOR A CERTAIN PIECE OF GOODS OF 

WHICH THE COUNTS OF THE YARN, LENGTH OF CLOTH TO BE 

WOVEN, ITS WIDTH IN REED, AND THE AMOUNT OF 

MATERIAL TO BE USED, ARE GIVEN. 

In such a case use — 

Rule. — Multiply counts by basis of yarn and amount of material to be used, the product thus 
obtained divide by the yards given and the quotient by width of fabric in reed. 

Example. — Woolen Yarn (run basis). Find number of picks necessary to produce the follow- 
ing fabric : 6-ruu woolen yarn, 80 inches width of cloth in reed, 40 yards length of cloth woven, 20 
lbs. weight of filling to be used. 

6 X 1,600=9,600 X 20=192,000-5-40=4,800-5-80=60 

Answer. — 60 picks are required. 

Proof.— 60X80=4,800X40=192,000 yards required. 

6X1,600=9,600. Thus: 192,000-5-9,600=20 lbs., weight' of filling to be used. 

Example. — Worsted Yarn. Find number of picks required to produce the following fabric: 
Single 15's worsted filling, 60 inches width of cloth in reed, 40 yards length of cloth woven, 22 H>s. 
weight of filling to be used. 

1 5 X 560=8,400 X 22=184,800-5-40=4.620-5-60=77 

Answer. — 77 picks are required. 

In some instances there may be two or more different counts of filling used. For example 
in fabrics made with one system of warp and two or more fillings, or fabrics made on the regular 
double cloth system, etc. If the arrangement as to counts of a filling is of a simple form, com- 
pound the counts of the respective number of threads in one thread, and solve answer in compound 
size by previously given rule. Next multiply compound number thus derived by number of picks 
compounded, and the result will be the answer for picks wanted in fabric. 

Example. — Woolen Yarn (cut basis). Find number of picks. necessary to produce the following 

fabric. 

Arrangement of filling. — 2 picks 32-cut woolen yarn (face). 

1 pick 18 " " " (back). 

3 picks in repeat. 
36 yards length of cloth woven, 26 h lbs. weight of filling to be used, 74 inches reed space to 
be occupied. 



42 

32-^32=1 32-s-35=8iV-eut compound size. 

32h-32=1 8t 8 7X300=2,541t 3 tX26A=66,600 

32h-18=13 66,600-^36=1,850-^74=25, compound number of picks required. 

25 X 3 (number of minor picks compounded) = 75 
3J 

Answer. — 75 picks are required. 

Proof. — 2 picks 32-cut. 75 picks per inch. 

1 pick 18-cut. I 36 yards length of cloth. 

3 picks iu repeat. 74 inches reed space occupied. Find weight (26ii). 

75x74=5,550^-3=1,850. 1,850— 18-cut— (18x300=5,400 yards per lb.) 

3,700— 32-cut— (32X300=9,600 yards per lb.) 

1,850X36= 66,600-s-5,400=12|=12& lbs. 
3,700 X 36=133,200^-9,600=13|=13IJ lbs. 

26A lbs., being the same weight as given in example. 

If the arrangement of filling has a large number of picks in repeat proceed as follows : 
Ascertain weight of filling for one repeat of number of yards required woven and find answer by pro- 
portion, for picks in one repeat are to their weight in the same proportion, as picks required (or x) to 
given weight. 

Example. — Cotton Yarn. Find number of picks required for the following cloth: 



Width of fabric in reed 30 inches. 
Length of cloth woven 60 yards. 
Weight of filling to be used 12 lbs. 



Arrangement of filling. — 20 picks single 20's cotton. 

24 " " 12's " 

44 picks in repeat. 



20X30=600X60=36,000 1 

24 X 30=720 X 60=43,200 J for one repeat of 

44 picks. 

20's cotton=16,800 yards per lb. and 36,000 yards are required. 
12's " =10,080 " " " 43,200 " " " 

36,000^-16,800=2} lbs. 

43,200-^-10,080=4! lbs. 

+— 

6f lbs., weight required for one repeat (=44 picks) of given counts of cotton yarn. 

44:6!:: x:12 44Xl2=528--6?=82i% 

Answer. — 82 picks (actually 82A picks) are required. 

Proof.— 82& X 30=2,464 X 60=147,840 h-44=3,360. 

3,360X20=67,200^16,800=4 lbs. 
3,360x24=80,640-^-10,080=8 lbs. 

12 lbs., weight of filling to be used in given example. 

To ascertain the number of yards of cloth woven, a certain amount of yarn on hand 
will give. Such examples will frequently arise in working up old lots on hand ; again every time at 
weaving the last pieces cloth of large orders, where the superintendent wants a final review before the 



43 

last or last few looms may have to wait for filling, or cut warps short. In such instances, width of 
fabric in reed, counts of yarn, and picks per inch are known. Thus : find number of yards for which 
material on hand by — 

Ride. — Ascertain weight of filling required per yard, and divide the latter into the total weight of 
yarn on hand. 

Example. — Woolen Yarn (run system). Find number of yards of cloth we can weave with 92 
His. 4-run woolen yarn filling in a fabric, which is set 70 inches wide in reed and for which we use GO 
picks per inch. 

Picks ) ( Width of) ( Yds of filling ) f 6,400 -f-i6] 

per J- < fabric > -I wanted for j- ■! or yards [■ 

inch ) ( in reed ) ( 1 yard cloth. ) ( per oz J 

60 X 70 = 4,200 -5- 400 =10J oz., weight of filling wanted per yard cloth woven. 

( Lbs. of filling M Oz. in ) ( Total amount } ( Oz of filling in ) 
/ on hand. f } 1 lb j ( of oz j" j 1 yard of cloth, f 

92 x 16 = 1,472 -- 10.5 =140.19 yards. 

Answer. — Filling in hand will weave 140 yards (140.19) of cloth. 

Example. — Woolen Yarn (cut system). Find number of yards of cloth we can weave with 42 

lbs. 32-cut woolen yarn filling in a fabric, which is set 72 inches in reed and for which we use 84 picks 

per inch. 

("Picks) (Width of) I Yds. of filling ] (9.600^-16 
■j per - 1 fabric [- -j wanted for V ■ or yards 
1 inch. ) ( in reed. ) ( 1 yard cloth J ( per oz. 

84 X 72 = 6,048 -=- 600 =10.08 oz., weight of filliug wanted per yard cloth woven. 

I Lbs. of filling ) j Oz. in M Total amount"! j Oz. of filling in ) 
I on hand. ( ( lib. J ( ofoz. J j 1 yard of cloth f 

42 x 16 = 672 -5- 10.08 =66 f yards. 

Answer. — Filling on hand will weave 66 yards (665) of cloth. 

Example. — Worsted Yarn. Find number of yards of cloth we can weave with 52 lbs. of 2/36's 
worsted filling in a fabric, which is set 62 inches wide in reed and for which we use 70 picks per inch. 

("Picks") (Width of") ( Yds. of filling "1 f 10,080-^16 
j per \ \ fabric > i wanted for Y < or yards 
I inch.) (. in reed. J ( 1 yd. of cloth. J [ per oz. 

70 X 62 = 4,340 -5- 630 =6.888 oz.,weight of filling wanted per yard cloth woven. 

f Lbs. of filling 1 f Oz. in ) f Total amount \ f Oz. of filling in ) 
\ on hand. ] \ I lb. f \ of oz ill yard of cloth ) 

52 x 16 = 832 h- 6.888 =120.79 yards. 

Answer. — Filling on hand will weave 120 yards (120!) of cloth. 

Example. — Cotton Yarn. Find number of yards of cloth we can weave with 18 lbs. of single 
40's cotton filling in a fabric, which is set 30 inches in reed and for which we use 60 picks per inch. 

I" Picks] f Width of] f Yds. of filling ] f33,6oo-Hi6] 
■I per > i fabric - -j wanted for )■ -j or yards > 
[ inch. J [_ in reed J [ 1 yard of cloth. J [ per oz. J 

60 X 30 = 1,800 -j- 2,100 =foz., weight of filling wanted per yard cloth woven. 

j Lbs. of filling "I ( Qz in ) ( Total amount ) j Oz. of filling in j 
j on hand. J ) lib. \ \ ofoz. j" ( 1 yard of cloth j 

18 X 16 = 288 h- * =336 yards. 

Answer. — Filling on hand will weave 336 yards of cloth. 

(Answers are given in these examples without reference to any waste of material during the weaving process.) 



44 

Ascertaining the Amount and Cost of the Materials used in the 

Construction of Fabrics. 



A. FIND THE TOTAL COST OF MATERIALS USED, and 

B. FIND THE COST OF THE SAME PER YARD, FINISHED CLOTH. 

Fancy Cassimere. 

Warp. — 3,600 ends 4-run brown mix. Price of yarn, 85 cents per lb. Length dressed, 50 yards. 
Reed, 12* X 4. 

Selvage. — 40 ends, 2-ply 4-run. Reeded, 4 ends per dent. Price of yarn, 50 cents. 

Filling. — 52 picks, 3f-run gray mix. Price of yarn, G5 cents per lb. 

Length of fabric from loom, 43 yards. Length of fabric finished, 40 yards. 

| ^ds. | {Yards. J j ££ [ j V-J.,- J j Total lbs . | { Price per j. 

Warp.— 3,600X50 _( 18 q )(XX j ^ 6)40 o) = 28£ X 85/ = $23,905, price of warp. 

f Total \ f Yards \ ( Price per 1 

\ yards, j \ per lb. J '( lb. J 

Selvage.— 40X2=80 ends X 50 yds. =4,000 -h 3,200=1 £ lbs. X 50^ = 62|/, price of selvage. 

Filling. — 3,600-7-50=72 inches, width of warp in reed. 

f 1! " width of selvage (80-^4=20-=-12|=lf). 

731 inches, width of warp and selvage. 

( n ,-jM ( ( t,- i ) ( Yards filling ) t Yards ) ( Total yards ) ( Yards per / ( Weight of > 
| Wtdth. | j Picks J j peryardclot i;- {woven. | ( filling. \\ lb. M filling. \ 

73,1 X 52 = 3,8271 X 43 = 164,582i -*- 6,000 = 27.43 lbs. 

X65/, price per lb. 



$23,901, price of warp. 
62|, price of selvage. 
17.83, price of filling. 



$17.8295, price of filling. 
$42.36-=-40=$1.059 or $1.06, price of material per yard finished. 



$42.36, total cost of all. 

Answer. — A. $42.36, total cost of all materials. 

Answer. — B. $1.06, cost of materials per yard of finished cloth. 

■Worsted Suiting. 

Warp. — 3,968 ends, 2/32's worsted. Price of yarn, $1.05 per lb. Length dressed, 45 yards. 
Reed, 16x4. 

Selvage. — 30 double ends, 2/30's worsted, 3 double ends per dent. Price of yarn, 75 cents per lb. 
Filling. — 66 picks, 2/32's worsted. Price of yarn, 95 cents. 

Length of fabric from loom, 40 yards. Length of fabric finished, 39£ yards. 
Warp. — 3,968X45=178,560 yards of warp wanted. 
2/32's worsted=l/16's=8,960 yards per lb. 178,560-^8,960=19r! lbs., weight of warp. 

070 07QV 1 ()5 

1911X1.05=^- X 1.05=^j^ •=292.95-s-14=$20.921, cost of warp. 



45 

Selvage. — 60X2=120X45=5,400 yards of selvage arc wanted. 

2/30's=l/15's=8,400 yards per lb. 

r . o (Price per lb.) 

5,400-=-8,4U0= —-or ,-j- X 75^ = 675-=-14=48tV, cost of selvage. 
)^4 14 

Filling.— 3,968^-64=62 inches width of warp. 

10 dents each side for selvage=20 (both sides) -h16=14; inches, width of selvage. 

62 inches, width of warp. 

1£ " " selvage. < Yards filling | 
j wanted per yard, f 

634;, total width of fabric in reed, and 63^X66=4,174.5 

X40 length of cloth from loom. 



166,980 yards of filling wanted. 
166,980^-8,960=18111 lbs. of filling wanted. 

J Price ) 

\ per lb. f 

18fU X 95^ = 17.70Ht-^100=$17.70i, cost of filling. 

Warp, $20,921 

Selvage, 0.48fV $39.1175-f-39.25=$0.996 or 991/, cost of material per yard. 

Filling, 17.701 

$39.11 rV, total cost of materials. 

Answer A. — $39,111, (practically $39.12) total cost of all materials. 

Answer B. — $ 0.99s, (practically $1.00) cost of materials per yard of finished cloth. 

Cotton Dress Goods. 

Warp. — 1,392 ends, single 18's cotton. Price of yarn, 22 cents per lb. Length dressed, 60 
yards. Reed, 24 X 2. 

Selvage. — 12 ends, 2/20's cotton, 3 ends per dent. Price, 20 cents per lb. 

Filling. — 54 picks, single 26's cotton. Price, 24 cents per lb. 

Length of cloth from loom, 56 yards. Length of cloth finished, 561 yards. 

Warp.— 1,392x60=83,520-=-15,120(840X18)=5tV5 lbs.X22/=$1.20Hi, price of warp. 

Selvage.— 24 X60=1,440h-8,400=U* or A lbs. 

Ax20=(120-=-35)=3?^, price of selvage. 

Filling.— 1,392-^48=29 inches, width of fabric in reed. 
£ inch " " both selvages. 

294; inches, total width of fabric and selvages. 

29^X54=1,584 yards of filling wanted per yard. 
X56 " length of cloth from loom. 



88,704, total number of yards wanted. 



j Yards per lb. / 
( it 



in 26's cotton. \ (lbs.) 
88,704 -=- 21,840 = 4.061 X24^=.97iW, price of filling. 



46 



1.21, price of warp 
.03J, " " selvage 
.97J, " " filling 



$2.22-^56 J=3tt 3 or nearly 3| ?, price of material per yard finished. 



$2.22, total price of material used in the fabric. 
Answer A. — $2.22, total cost of material used. 
Answer B. — $ .03§, (practically 4 cents) cost of materials per yard finished cloth. 

Woolen Tricot Suiting. 

Warp. — 4,608 ends, 32-cut woolen yarn. Price of yarn, $1.15 per lb. Length dressed, 40 
yards. Reed, 16X4. 

Selvage. — 40 ends, single 10-cut, 2 ends per dent. Price, 54 cents per lb. 

Filling. — 76 picks, 36-cut woolen yarn. Price, $1.08 per lb. 

Length of cloth from loom, 36 yards. Length of cloth finished, 32 yards. 

Warp.— 4,608X40=184,320-^9,600(300X32)=19.2 lbsX$U5=$22.08, price of warp. 

Selvage.— 40X2=80 X 40=3,200^3,000(300 X10)=1tV lbs.X$0.54=$0.576, price of selvage. 

Filling.— 4,608-^64=72 inches, width of warp. 

2| " " " selvage. (40x2=80^2=40h-16=2J) 

74J inches, total width of fabric. 
74JX 76=5,662 yards filling per yard. 
X36 yards of cloth woven. 



Warp, $22.08 
Selvage, ' .576 
Filling, 20.383 



203,832, total yards filling wanted. 
203,832-=-10,800=18,873 lbs., weight of filling. 
18,873 lbs.X$1.08=$20.383, cost of filling. 

$43.039 --32=$1. 345, or $1.34J, cost of materials per 
yard finished. 



$43,039, total cost. 

Answer A. — $43,039, (practically $43.04) is the total cost of the materials used ; and, 
Answer B. — $1.34J, is the cost of the same per yard finished. 

Worsted Suiting. 

Warp. — 3,960 ends. Length dressed, 45 yards. Reed, 16x4. Take up of warp during weaving, 
12 per cent. 

Dressed. — 4 ends black 2/3 2 's \ ... , , 

', . > 4 times over=24 ends. 
2 " slate 2/36'sJ 

4 " black 2/32's = 4 " 

1 " 30/2's lavender spun silk = 1 " 

1 " 30/2's red " " =1 " 

30 ends in pattern. 
Price of black worsted, $1.05. Price of slate worsted, $1.12. Price of silk, $6.50. 
Selvage. — 30double ends, 2/30's worsted each side, 3 double ends per dent. Price of yarn, 75/ per lb, 



47 

Filling. — G6 picks per inch, 2/32's worsted. 

Arrangement of colors. — 28 picks black worsted 2/32's (price 95f' per lb.) 

1 pick lavender spun silk 30/2's (price $6.50 per lb.) 

1 pick red " " 30/2's (price 6.50 per lb.) 

30 picks in repeat. Loss in length during finishing, li per cent. 

20 ends black 2/32's worsted = 10 

8 " slate 2/36's " = 4 

2 " spun silk 30/2's " = 1 

30 ends in pattern =15 

3,960-h15=264 repeats (of half patterns.) 

264X10= 2,640 ends of 2/32's black worsted X 45= 11 8,800 yards. 

264X 4=1,056 " " 2/36's slate " X45= 47,520 " 

0(54 1= f 132 " « 30/2's lavender silk X45= 5,940 " 
\ 132 " " 30/'2s red silk X45= 5,940 " 



3,960 ends of warp X 45=178,200 yards. 

2/32's=l/16's=16 X 560=8,960 yards per lb. 

118,800-^8,960=13rMbs.X$1.05=^^Xl.05=(l,485x 1.05=155,925^-112=) $13,921. 

1 1 z 

Price of 118,800 yards 2/32's black worsted is $13.92. 

2/36's=l/18's=18 X 560=10,080 yards. 

47,520-^10,080=4f lbs. X $1.1 2=$5.28, price of 47,520 yards 2/36's slate worsted. 

30/2's silk=25,200 yards per lb. 5.940-^25,200=0.235 lbs. X$6.50=$l .52750. 

Price of 5,940 yards 30/2's lavender silk=$1.527. Price of 5,940 yards 30/2's red silk=$1.527. 

Black worsted, $13.92 

Slate, " 5.28 

Lavender silk, 1.527 

Red silk, 1.527 



$22,254, total cost of warp. 

Selvage.— 2/30's=l/5's=15X 560=8,400 yards per lb. 

54 9 
120X45=5,400 yards. 5,400^-8,400=-^=^ lbs. X 75^=48.2/, price of selvage 

Filling.— 3,960-^64=611! inches, width of cloth in reed. 

60^3=20 dents-=-16=lT 4 5=H inch, width of selvage. 
61H, width of cloth. 
1A, width of selvage. 

621! inches=631 inches, width of cloth and selvage. 

505 
631 X66=-g-X66=(505X66=33,330--8=)4;i66i yards filling wanted for 1 yard cloth from loom. 

45 yards length dressed. 
— 5.4 " 12 per cent, take up. 



39.6 yards, length of cloth woven. 
4,166.25X39.6=164,983.5 yards, total amount of filling wanted. 



48 

1AQ09 O ,/ 

164,983.5h-15=10,998.9 



10,998.9X14=153,984.6 yards of 2/32's worsted wanted. 
10,998.9 X 1= 10.998.9 " " 30/2's silk wanted. 



164,983.5 
153,984.6-^8,960=17.185 lbs.X95/=$16.326, price of the black worsted filling. 
30/2's silk=25,200 yards per lb. 10,998.9-^25,200=0.436 lbs. X$6.50=$2.834, total price of silk. 

$2.834-=-2=$1.417, price for each kind silk. 

$16,326 black worsted filling. 
1.417 lavender silk " 
1.417 red " " 



Cost of warp, 
" " selvage, 
" " filling, 


$22,254 

.482 

19.160 



$19,160, total cost of filling. 

39.6 yards, length of cloth woven. 
.594 " 1 J percent, loss in finishing. 



39.006 yards, finished length. 



$41,896, total cost of materials. 

41.896-^39.006=1.074, cost of materials per 
finished yard. 



Answer. — A. Total cost of material, $41.90. 

Answer. — B. Cost of materials per yard finished cloth, $1.07£. 

Fancy Cassimere. 

"Warp. — 4,032 ends. Eeed, 14X4. Length of warp dressed, 50 yards. Take-up of warp 
during weaving, 10 per cent. 

Dressed. — 4 ends 5-run black 1 . ,. „„ , 

,, _ ,. , > 4 times over ------ =32 ends. 

4 " 5 brown J 

4 ends 5-run black - - - - - - - -=4 ends. 

3 " 5 " brown -.--.----=3 ends. 

{5-run black wool and 30's blue spun silk twisted together ~» 
take up of silk, 12 per cent. ") >~1 en ^« 

« '< "wool, 3percent.} duriu g twistln g- J 



2 ends 5-run black 1 „ ,. „„ , 

„„_.,, > 9 times over ------ =3b ends. 

2 " 5 " brown J 

2 ends 5-run black - - - - - - - - -=2 ends. 

1 end 5 " brown - - - - - - - - - ■ = 1 end. 

1 " twist (the same as above) - - - - - - -=1 end. 



In jiattem 80 ends. 

Price of the 5-run warp yarn, 96 cents per lb. Price of the 5-run woolen yarn (soft-twist) as used 
in twist, 96 cents per lb. Price of the spun-silk as used in twist, $5.60 per lb. 

Selvage. — 40 ends of 2- ply 4-run listing yarn for each side, 4 ends per dent. Price of yarn, 50 cents. 

Filling. — The same arrangement as the warp, only using 5|-run yarn in place of the 5-rim. For 
twist use the same material for both minor threads as in warp. 60 picks per inch. Price of the 5J-run 
filling yarn, 85 cents. Loss in length of fabric at finishing (fulling), 6 per cent. 

, „„„ f 78 ends 5-run 

Warp.-4 ; 032ends.{ 2 „ ^ 



4,032-5-80=50 repeats plus 32 ends. 



80 ends in repeat. 
50 X 78-3,900+32=3,932 ends of 5-run 50 X 2=100 ends twist. 



49 

(Kn.ls in warp.) (Yards long.) (Yards wanted.) (5X1,600) 

3,932 50 = 196,600 -=- 8,000 =24,575 lbs.@96/=$23.592,priceof 5-run warp. 

100 ends of twist X 50 yards (dressed)= 5,000 yards, total length of twist yarn wanted. 

Take-up of silk (during twisting) 12per cent. Thus: (100:88 :: x: 5,00O)=5,681.81 yards of 30's 
spun silk are wanted. 

Take-up of wool (during twisting) 3 per cent. Thus : (100: 97 :: x : 5,000)=5, 154.64 yards of 5-run 
woolen yarn are wanted. 

(30 X 840) (Weight wanted. ) ( Price per lb. ) 
5,681.81 -5- 25,200 = 0.2264 lbs. X $5.60 = $1,262, price of silk yarn used in twist for warp. 

(5X1,600) (Weight wanted.) (Price per lb.) 
5,154.64 -f- 8,000= 0.6443 lbs. X 96/ =$0,618, price of the 5-run minor yarn for twist. 

$23,592 cost of 5-run warp yarn. 

1.262 " " 30's spun silk 1 , 

r „ . } for twist. 
0.618 " " 5-run soft twist 



$25,472, total cost of warp. 

Selvage.— 80 endsX50 yards dressed=4,000 yards of yarn -^3,200 (2X 1,600) =1J lbs. 
1 J lbs @ 50/ = 62|/, price of selvage yarn us-ed. 

(Ends in warp.) (14X4) 
Filling. — 1,032 -=- 56 = 72 inches, width of cloth in reed. 

80 (ends selvage) -5-4 (ends per dent) =20 dents -5- 14=1? inches, width of selvage. 

72 inches, width of cloth, 
If " " " selvage, 

73? inches, total width. 

(Width ofl ( Picks ) 

\ cloth. J } per inch. ) (50 ^ 

73? X 60 =^ X 60=^ () ^-X45 j—J= 10 I^r cent, take up 1=198,257', total 

number of yards of filling wanted. 

198,2571-5-40=4,956.43 X 1= 4,956.43 yards of twist, 1,,,. 

and 4,956.43X39=193,300.77 " « 5J-rnn. } h " mg *"" aK ^"^ 

5|-run=8,800 yards per lb. Thus : 

193,300h-8,800=21H lbs. @ 85/=$18.671, price of the 5±-nm filling. 

T ' rn / Silk teke-up 12 P er cent -» tnus : (!°0:88 :: x:4,956.43)=5,632I1 yards are wanted. 

yai11 ' \ Wool " 3" " " (100:97 ::x:4,956.43)=5,109S? " " " 

30's spun silk= 25,200 yards per lb. Hence : 

5,632-5-25,200=0.2235 lbs., weight of silk wanted @ $5.60=$1.251, price of silk. 
5-run woolen yarn=8,000 yards per lb. Hence : 
5,109-5-8,000=0.6386 lbs., weight of woolen yarn @ 96^=61.3/, price of the woolen yarn. 

.671 cost of 5 i-run filling. 

1.251 " " 30's spun silk. 1 , 

r „ > for twist, 

0.613 " " 5-run soft twist, J 



$20,535, total cost of filling. 



50 



$25,472, cost of warp. 
0.625, " " selvage. 
20.535, " " filling. 



45 yards, woven length of cloth. 
— 2.7 '' (6 per cent, shrinkage in fnl ing). 



$46,632, total cost. 



42.3 yards, length of cloth when finished. 
46.632-5-42.3=1.124 



Answer. — A. The total cost of materials used are $46,632 ($46.64) and 
Answer. — B. The cost of the same per finished yard is $1,124 ($1.13.) 

Fancy Cotton Dress Goods. 

(27 inches finished width.) 

2,204 ends in warp. Reed, 38 X 2. Length of cloth from loom, 80 yards. 



Dressing : 








Dressing :— 


-continued. 






1 end dark blue 
1 end white 


(ground) 1 
J 


X4= 8 ends 


1/20's 


1 end dark blue (ground) \ 
1 end white 


X4= 8 ends 


1/20's 


1 end light blue 


« 


= 1 end 


2/30's 


1 end maroon 


it 


= 1 end 


2/30's 


2 ends " " 


(pile) 


= 2 ends 


2/24's 


2 ends " 


(pile) 


= 2 ends 


2/24's 


1 end " " 


(ground) 


= 1 end 


2/30's 


1 end " 


(ground) 


= 1 end 


2/30's 


8 ends tan 


tt 


= 8 ends 


1/20's 


8 ends tan 


« 


= 8 ends 


1/20's 


1 end flesh 


tt 


■= 1 end 


2/30's 


1 end white 


tt 


= 1 end 


2/30's 


2 ends " 


(pile) 


= 2 ends 


2/24's 


2 ends " 


(pile) 


= 2 ends 


2/24's 


1 end " 


(ground) 


= 1 end 


2/30's 


1 end " 


(ground) 


= 1 end 


2/30's 


1 end white 


tt 


= 1 end 


2/30's 


1 end light blue " 


= 1 end 


2/30's 


2 ends " 


(pile) 


= 2 ends 


2/24's 


2 ends " " 


(pile) 


= 2 ends 


2/24's 


1 end " 


(ground) 


= 1 end 


2/30's 


1 end " " 


(ground) 


= 1 end 


2/30's 


1 end dark bl.ue 
1 end white 


:: } 


X4= 8 ends 


1/20's 


1 end dark blue " 1 
1 end white " / 


X4= 8 ends 


1/20's 


1 end maroon 


a 


= 1 end 


2/30's 


1 end " 


tt 


= 1 end 


2/30's 


2 euds " 


(pile) 


= 2 ends 


2/24's 


2 ends " 


(pile) 


= 2 ends 


2/24's 


1 end " 


(ground) 


= 1 end 


2/30's 


1 end " 


(ground) 


= 1 end 


2/30's 


8 ends tan 


tt 


= 8 ends 


1/20's 


8 ends tan 


a 


= 8 ends 


1/20's 


1 end white 


tt 


= 1 end 


2/30's 


1 end flesh 


tt 


= 1 end 


2/30's 


2 ends " 


(pile) 


= 2 ends 


2/24's 


2 ends " 


(pile) 


= 2 ends 


2/24's 


1 end " 


(ground) 


= 1 end 


2/30's 


1 end " 


(ground) 


= 1 end 


2/30's 


24 ends tan 


a 


=24 ends 


1/20's 


24 ends tan 


tt 


=24 ends 


1/20's 



Repeat of pattern, 152 ends. 

Take-up of ground-warps during weaving, 8 per cent. 
Take-up of pile-warp during weaving, 70 per cent. 

Price of warp yarns (including coloring or bleaching) as to their respective counts, are: 

1/20's ground, 30 cents. 
2/30's ground, 38 cents. 
2/24's pile, 36 cents. 

Selvage. — 10 two-ply ends of 2/20's white cotton for each side. 2 double ends per dent. 8 per cent, 
take up during weaving. Price of yarn, 22 cents. 



51 



Pilling. — 78 picks per inch. 



Arrangement of colors. — 4 picks white 

8 " tan 



Counts for all the filling 1/20's cotton. 

Price of all the filling yarn, inclusive of coloring and bleaching, 28 cents. 

Length of cloth from loom to equal length finished. 



Warp. — 1/20's ground=112 ends in one pattern 
2/30's " = 20 " " " " 

2/24's pile = 20 " " " " 



4 


u 


maroon 


8 


a 


tan 


6 


u 


white 


8 


(t 


tan 


4 


it 


light blue 


28 


<( 


tan 



70 picks in repeat. 



152 ends in one repeat of pattern. 

2,204 (ends in warp) -i-152 (repeat of pattern) =14 J repeats of pattern in width of fabric. 
Pattern, with reference as to counts, repeats twice in one repeat of pattern. Thus : 



112xl4J=l,624endsof 1/20'scottou— 8 percent. 
20X14J= 290 " " 2/30's " — 8 " " 
20X14|= 290 " " 2/24's " —70 " " 



f Take-up dur-1 \ Y ^°[ >' £J ] [ Length of] \ Yards of y a. 
< iug weav- ^ - * - 



yard cloth 
woven. 



■n 

1,765.2174 X 
315.2174 X 
966.6666 X 



cloth 
woven. 

80 
80 
80 



) 



wanted for the 
entire piece. 



141,217.392 yds. 
25,217.392 " 
= 77,333.328 " 



Yards of yarn wanted I 
for the entire piece. | 

141,217.392 yards. 
25,217.392" " 
77,333.328 " 



J Yards per I 

1 lb - J { 



16,800 
J 2,600 
10,080 



Lbs. of yarn 1 
wanted for the V 
entire piece. J 

8.4058 
2.0013 
7.6719 



Price of 
the yarn 
per lb. 

30/ 

38 

36 



\ } 



Value of yarn 

$2.52 
0.76 
2.76 



.04, price of warp yarn. 



Filling.— 29 



A 



inches, width of fabric in reed. 
" " " selvage in reed. 



29A inches, total width of cloth in reed. 



29AX78=(^. X78 ) = 



19 



=2,282.5263 yards of filling per yard cloth woven. 



2,282.5263 X 



f Length ) 
J. of cloth V 
(. woven. ) 



20X840 



Length 

! of cloth ! 

woven . 

80 = 182,602.1040 yds. -f- 16,800 



Total yards of filling ( 
wanted. f 



f{ 



Lbs. of yarn ( 
wanted. f 

10.8691 X 



Price of yarn 
per lb. 

28/ 



f Value of 
i total fill- 
( iug yarn. 

= $3.04 



Selvage, 
cloth woven, 



ends. 8 per cent, take-up (100:92 :: x: 40) required 43.478 yards yarn per yard 



' Length ) C Yards of selvage 
of cloth - - wanted for the 



43.478 yards X 80 



eutire ptece. 

3,478.24 yards 



10X140 



8,400 



Total "J f Price •> 
weight of > ■! per j- 
selvage. J { lb. J 

0.414 lbs. X 22/=9/ ; total price of selvage. 



$6.04 cost 


of 


warp, 


3.04 


a 


u 


filling, 


0.91 


it 


ct 


selvage, 



52 



9.99-^-80=12.487. 

.99, total cost. 

Answer. — A. The total cost of materials used in fabric is $9.99, and 
Answer. — B. The value of this stock, per finished yard, is 12.487 cents, practically 12i cents. 

Worsted Suiting. 

3,968 ends 2/32's worsted. Length of warp dressed, 45 yards. Reed, 16X4. 
Arrangement of dressing. — 4 ends black, 

4 ends brown, 
4 ends black, 
4 ends indigo blue. 

16 ends in repeat. 

Price of yarn in the white, (scoured) $1.05 per lb. 

Allowance for waste during spooling, dressing and weaving, 5 per cent. 

Selvage. — 30 double ends of 2/30's white worsted for each side, 4 double ends per dent. Price, 
per lb., 75 cents. 

Filling. — 66 picks, 2/32's worsted. Same arrangement of colors as in warp. Price of yarn in the 
white, (scoured) 95 cents. 

Allowance for waste during spooling and weaving, 6 per cent. 

Length of fabric from loom, 40 yards. Length of fabric finished, 39J yards. 

Cost of coloring yarn, black, 6 cents per lb. ; brown, 6 cents per lb. ; indigo blue, 15 cents per lb. 
(Weight of yarn before coloring to equal its weight when colored.) 

Cost of weaving, 16 cents per yard, from loom. Cost of finishing, 12 cents per yard, finished. 

General mill expenses, 10 cents per yard, finished cloth. 

Warp. — 

f Yards \ ( Total \ \ Price ) 

(Ends) \ dressed. / 1 yards. / (16X560) (Lbs.) ] per lb. f (Cost.) 

3,968 X 45 = 178,560 -*- 8,960 = 19.928 X $1.05 = $20.9244 

19.928 -h 4 = 4.982 X 1 = 4.982 lbs. @ 15? (indigo blue) .7473 

4.982 X 3 = 14.946 " " 6^ (black and brown) = .8967 

$22.5684 
5 per cent, allowance for waste, 1.1284 

Total cost of warp yarn, $23.6968 

Selvage.— 60 double ends 2/30's worsted = 20 single ends 2/30's. 

120X45=5,400h-8;400=!I=A lb. @ 75^=48.214^ 
5 per cent, allowance for waste, 2.410 

Cost of selvage, $0,562 

Filling. — Reed, 16X4=64 warp threads per inch. 
(Ends in full warp. )-^(Ends per inch.) 

3,968 h- 64 =62 inches, width of cloth in reed. 

it " width of selvage (60^-4=15 dents, reed 16= is inch). 



62H inches, total width of fabric (including selvage) in reed. 



53 

l Width ) j Picks ) j Yards of filling wanted M Yards ( 
( in reed, f ( per inch. ( / per yard of cloth woven. 1 ( from loom. ) 

62M X 66 = -1,153$ 40 =166,155 yards of filling wanted in cloth. 

+ 9,960 yards, 6 per cent, allowance for 

'■ [waste 

176,124 yards, total amount of filling wanted. 
(Total length.) (15X560) (Total weight.) 

176,124 -r- 8,960 = 19.6567 lbs. @ 95^ =$18.6739, cost of filling yarn. 
19.6567-^4=4.9141x1 = 4.9141 lbs. @ 15 = 0.7371, " " indigo blue color. 

4.9141 X 3= 14.7426. lbs. @ 6 = 0.8845, " " black and brown colors. 



$20.2955, total cost of filling yarn. 
40 X W=$6.40, cost of weaving. 
394; X 12 =$4.71, " " finishing. 
39 J X 10 =$3.93, general mill expenses (office insurance, watchmen, mechanics, per cent, on capital, etc.) 

$23.70 cost of warp. 



0.51 " " selvage. 
20.30 " " filling. 
6.40 " " weaving. 
4.71 " " finishing. 
3.93 general mill expenses. 



$59.55-=-39}=$1.517. 



$59.55 
Anstve?: — A. $59.55, total cost of the fabric. 
Answer. — B. $1.52, cost of fabric per finished yard. 

Beaver Overcoating. (Piece-dyed.) 

4,800 ends in warp. Reed, 10X6. 42 yards long, dressed. 
Arrangement of dressing. — 2 ends face, 5|-run. Price of yarn per lb., $1.25. 

1 end back, 5-run " " " " " .84. 

3 ends in repeat. 

Filling. — 2 picks face, 5i-run. Price of yarn per lb., $1.18. 
1 pick back, lf-run. " " " " " .40. 

3 picks in repeat. 

16 cents for weaving. 



80 picks per inch. 



4 " general weave room expenses. 

20 cents per yard from loom for weaving. 

Selvage. — 40 ends of 2-run listing yarn (each side). Price, 50 cents per lb. 3 ends per dent 
(outside dent 4). 

Take-up of warp during weaving, 11 per cent. Take-up of cloth during finishing (fulling), 10 
per cent. Flocks used during fulling process, 20 lbs. at 8 cents per lb. Cost of finishing and dy ing, 
25 cents per yard, finished. General mill expenses, 10 cents per yard, finished. 

Warp.— 4,800-^3=1,600. 

(Yards wanted.) 

1,600X2=3,200 ends 5i-runX42= 134,400 h-8,800=15t't lbs. @ $1.25=$19.09. 
1,600X1=1,600 ends 5-run X 42= 67,200 -^8,000= 8 ! lbs. @ .84= 7.06. 



Cost of warp, $26.15. 



54 

(Yards wanted.) 
Selvage.— 80 ends 2-run X 42= 3,360 -=-3,200=1.05 lbs. @ 50^=52^/ (53^), cost of selvage. 

Filling. — Reed, 10X6=60 ends per inch and 
4,800^-60=80 inches, width of cloth in reed. 

2.6 " " " selvage (80-f-3=26 dents=2.6 inches). 



82.6 inches, total width. 

82.6X80=6,608 yards (total amount of filling per yard woven). 
6,608 n-3=2,202f and 2,202f X 2=4,405^ yards face filling. 
2,202|Xl=2,202| " backing. 

1 1 per cent, take-up of warp during weaving. 

100:89 :: 42 :x=89X 42=3,73«-h100=37.38 yards, woven length. 

Hence: 4,405JX37.38 = 164,671.35 yards 5i-run=18.712 lbs @ $1.18=$22.10 
2,202fX37.38= 82,335.67 " If " =29.456 " @ .40= 11.78 



Cost of filling, $33.88 
37.38 X 20^=$7.47, cost of weaving. 
10 per cent, shrinkage of cloth during finishing. Hence : 

100:90 :: 37.38 :x=(90X37.38=)3,360.20-=-100=33.64 yards, finished length. 
$26.15 cost of warp. ^ x ^ f=% g ^ ^ q£ ^.^ 

33.64 X 10 = 3.37 general mill expenses. 
20 X 8 = 1.60 cost of flocks. 



.53 


ii 


" selvage. 


33.88 


a 


" filling. 


7.47 


a 


" weaving. 


8.41 


a 


" finishing. 


3.37 


tt 


" general expenses 


1.60 


a 


" flocks. 



81.41 h-33.64=2.42. 
" " flocks. 

$1.41 

Answer. — A. $81.41, total cost of the fabric. 
Answer. — B. $ 2.42, cost of fabric per yard, finished. 

Ingrain Carpet. (Extra fine ; Cotton Chain, Worsted Filling) 

832 ends in warp, 2/14's cotton, 5 per cent, take-up by weaving and shrinkage in finishing, etc. 
Finished length of fabric, 60 yards. 

Cost of yarn, 17 f per lb. 

Cost of color, 5 " " (average price). 

Winding and beaming, 2\ " " 



24J^, price of warp yarn per lb. on beam. 

Selvage. — Four ends of 4/10's cotton on each side. Price, 20 ceuts per lb. (same amount of take- 
up as warp). 

Filling. — 10 pair, (in finished fabric) 36 inches, width of fabric in loom. 

Yarn used : One-half the amount 5/8's single, light colors (50 yards per oz. in the grease). Price, 
16J cents per lb. in the grease, or 26J cents per lb. scoured and colored. One4ialf the amount 5/8's 
single, dark colors (48 yards per oz. in the grease). Price, 12 cents per lb. in the grease, or 20 cents 
per lb. scoured and colored. 

Loss (average) of weight for filling in scouring and dyeing, 15 per cent. Waste of filling (average) 
in winding and weaving, 15 per cent. 



65 

Length of the yarn to remain uniform from the grease to colored. Weaving and weave-room 
expenses, 10 cents per yard finished fabric. General mill expenses, 5 cents per yard finished fabric. 

Warp. — 832 ends 2/14's cotton, 5 per cent, take-up, 60 yards finished length, 24| cents per Hi. 

100:95 :: x:832=83,200-^95=875Bx 60=52,547.37 yards, total amount of yarn wanted. 

2/14's=5,880 yards per lb. Hence : 52,547.37 -=-5,880=8.9536 lbs., total weight of yarn wanted. 

8.9536 lbs. @ 24^=$2.1936 (=$2.20) cost of warp-yarn. 

Selvage.— 4 X 2=8 X 60=480. 

100:95 : x :: 480=48,000^-95=505.26 yards, total length of selvage yarn wanted. 

4/10's=2,100 yards per lb. Hence: 505.26^-2,100=0.24 lbs., total weight. 

0.24 lbs. @ 20^=4.tV (=bf) cost of selvage. 

Filling. — 20 picks per inch in finished fabric. 36 inches, width of fabric. 

36X60=2,160X20=43,200 yards, total amount wanted in fabric. 

{21,600 yards light colored yarn, at 50 yards per oz. in the grease. 
21,600 yards dark colored yarn, at 48 yards per oz. in the grease. 
50X16=800 yards per lb. for light colors. 48 X 16=768 yards per lb. for dark colors. 

21,600-=-800=27 lbs., weight in the grease. 

85 X 27 
100:85 :: 27: x = =22.95 lbs., weight of yarn scoured and colored. 

22.95 lbs.@26i/=$6.082, cost of light colored filling used in fabric. 
21,600^-768=28.12 lbs., weight in the grease. 

85 X ^8 12 
100:85 :: 28.12 :x=— ~ ""=23.90 lbs., weight of yarn scoured and colored. 

23.9 lbs. @ 20/ ? =$4.78, cost of dark colored filling used in fabric. 

$ 6.082 light colored. 
4.780 dark " 



$10,862, total value of filling used in fabric, subjected to 15 percent, waste of material in winding 
and weaving. Hence : 

100 : 85 :: x : 10.86= — : =12.776, cost of filling, including of waste made in winding and weaving. 

85 

Cost of warp, $ 2.194 

Cost of selvage, 0.048 

Cost of filling, 12.776 

Weaving and weaveroom expenses, 6.000 (60 yards X 10 cents) 

General mill expenses, 3.000 (60 yards X 5 cents) 



24.01 h-60=0.40 



$24,018 

Answer. — A. $24.02, total cost of the fabric. 
Aivswer. — B. 40 cents, cost of fabric per yard finished. 

Ingrain Carpet. (Extra Super; Worsted Chain.) 

1,072 ends in warp, 2/14's worsted, 5 per cent, take up by weaving and shrinkage in finishing, etc 
Price of yarn, including coloring (average) and winding and beaming, 52J cents per lb. 

Selvage. — Four ends of 4/10's cotton on each side. 

Price, 20 cents per lb. (same amount of take up as warp). 

Filling. — 13 pair (in finished fabric) 36 inches, width of fabric in loom. 



56 

Arrangement. — 1 pick double reel yarn (60 yards per oz. in the grease.) Price, 22 cents 
per lb. in the grease, or 33 cents per lb. scoured and dyed. 
1 pick, 5/8's single, light color (50 yards per oz. in the grease). Price 16J 

cents per lb. in the grease, or 26J cents per lb. scoured and dyed. 
1 pick, double reel (as before). 

1 pick 5/8's, single dark color (48 yards per oz. in the grease). Price, 12 

cents per lb. in the grease, or 20 cents per lb. scoured and dyed. 

Loss of weight (average) for filling in scouring and dyeing, 12J per cent. Waste (average) of 

filling in, winding and weaving, 12J per cent. No shrinkage for yarn during scouring and coloring. 

Weaving and weaveroom expenses, 12 cents per finished yard. General mill expenses, 6 cents per 

finished yard. 

War]). — 1,072 ends, 2/14's worsted, 5 per cent, shrinkage. Price, 52 J cents per lb. 
100:95 :: x : 1,072=107,200h-95=1,128.421 X 60=67,705.26 yards, total amount of warp yarn wanted. 
2/14's=3,920 yards per lb. Hence: 67,705.26-^-3,920=17.27 lbs., total weight. 
17.27 lbs.@52J/=$9.066, value of warp yarn. 

Selvage. — (The same as in previously given Example) 5 cents. 

Filling. — 26 picks, 36 inches, 60 yards. Hence : 

26X36X60=56,160 yards, total amount of filling wanted in fabric. 
56,160-^-4=14,040. Hence : 

14,040X2=28,080 yards of double reel yarn@33/ per lb. 
14,040X1=14,040 " " 5/8's single light color@26J/ per lb. 
14,040X1=14,040 " " 5/8's single dark color@20 per lb. 
60X16=960 yards per lb. and 28,080-^960=29^ lbs. @ 33 ^=$9,652, value of double reel. 
50X16=800 yards per lb. and 14.040-^800=17.55 lbs. @ 26J =$4.65, value of 5/8's light color. 
48X16=768 yards per lb. and 14,040^-768=18.28 lbs. @ 20 =$3,656, value of 5/8's dark color. 
$9,652 value of double reel. 
4.650 " 5/8's light color. 

3.656 " 5/8's dark color. 



$17,958, total value of filling used in carpet (subject to 12J per cent, waste in winding and weaving). 

100:87.5 :: x : 17.958=1, 795.8^87.5=$20.523, cost of all the filling in fabric and waste. 

Memo. — The same answer as to the cost of filling, may be obtained by calculating the 12i per cent, loss of ma- 
terial during winding and weaving to the amount of filling wanted in the fabric, as follows : 

56,160 yards total amount of filling wanted. Thus : 

100:87.5:: x : 56,160=5,616,000-^87.5=64,182.856^-4=16,045.714. 
16,045.714X2=32,091.428^-960=33.428X33 =$11,031 
16,045.714-=-800=20.057x26.5= 5.315 
16,045.714h-768=20.891x20 = 4.178 



Cost of warp, 


$ 9.066 


Cost of selvage, 


0.048 


Cost of filling, 


20.523 



$20,523, being the same answer as before. 



Weaving and weave- 1 7 . 200 (60 yards @ 12/.) 

room expenses, J 
General mill expenses, 3.600 (60 yards @ 6f.) 

$40,437 
Answer. — A. $40.44, total cost of fabric. 
Answer. — B. 67/, cost of fabric per yard, finished. 



40.437-^-60=0.67. 



STRUCTURE OF TEXTILE FABRICS. 



To produce a perfect fabric the following points must he taken into consideration : The purpose 
of wear that the fabric will be subject to, the nature of the raw material to be used in its construc- 
tion, the size or counts of the yarns and their amount of twist, the texture (number of ends of warp 
and filling per inch) to be used, the weave and "take up" of the cloth during weaving, the process of 
finishing and the shrinkage of the cloth during this operation. 

THE PURPOSE OF WEAR THAT THE FABRIC WILL BE SUBJECT TO. 

This point must be taken into consideration when calculating for the construction of a fabric for 
the following reasons : The more wear a fabric is subject to, the closer in construction the same 
must be: also the stronger the fibres of the raw material as well as the amount of twist of the yarn. 
For this reason upholstery fabrics, such as lounge covers, must be made with a closer texture and of a 
stronger yarn than curtains. Woolen fabrics, for men's wear, are in an average more subject to wear than 
dress goods made out of the same material ; hence the former require a stronger structure. Again, 
let us consider woolen cloth for men's wear by itself, such as trouserings or chinchilla overcoatings. No 
doubt the student will readily understand that such of the cloth as is made for trouserings must be made 
of a stronger construction, to resist the greater amount of wear, compared to such cloth as made for the 
use of overcoatings which actually are subject to little wear, and for which only care must be taken to 
produce a cloth permitting air to enter and remain in its pores, assisting in this manner in producing a 
cloth with the greatest chances for retaining the heat to the human body. 

THE NATURE OF RAW MATERIALS. 

The selection of the proper quality of the material to use in the construction of a fabric is a point 
which can only be mastered by practical experience. No doubt a thorough study of the nature of raw 
materials, as well as the different processes they undergo before the thread as used by the weaver, 
(either for warp or filling) is produced, will greatly assist the novice to master this subject. For this 
reason the different raw materials, as used in the construction of textile fabrics and the different pro- 
cesses necessary for converting the same into yarn, have been previously explained. 

As known to the student every woven fabric is constructed by raising or lowering one system of 
threads (technically known as warp) over threads from another system (technically known as filling). 
This will readily illustrate that the warp threads of any woven cloth are subjected to more or less 
chafing against each other during the process of weaving. 

There will be more chafing the higher the warp texture, and the rougher the surface of the yarn. 
In some instances the manufacturer tries to reduce this roughness by means of sizing or starching the 
yarn during the process preceding weaving and known as" dressing ;" but sizing will correspondingly 
stiffen the warp yarns, and reduce their chances for bending easily around the filling, and the Warp will 
take up the filling harder than if the yarn was not sized. If, by means of sizing, the chafing is not 
dispensed with, we must reduce the warp texture to the proper point where perfect weaving is possible. 
No doubt the using of proper warp texture is so greatly neglected, that many a poor weaver's family is 
suffering by its cause. 

To illustrate the roughness of the different yarns as used in the manufacture of textile fabrics the 
five illustrations, Figs. 1 to 5 are given : Fig. 1 represents a woolen thread ; Fig. 2 represents worsted 
yarn ; Fig. 3 represents mohair; Fig. 4 represents cotton yarn ; Fig. 5 represents silk yam. 

(57) 



58 



An examination of these five illustrations shows the silk yarn to be the smoothest, followed in 
rotation, getting gradually rougher by cotton, mohair and worsted, until reaching the woolen thread which 
repiesents the roughest surface. These illustrations will also show that (in an average) a woolen fabric 
requires a lower texture than a worsted cloth, or a cotton cloth, and a silk fabric a higher texture 




Fig. 1 



Fig. 2 



Fig. 3 



Fig. 4 



Fig. 5 



compared to fabrics made out of other materials. In addition to the roughness of the surface of a thread, 
we must also take into consideration the pliability of the fibres, for the softer the pile of the yarn the 
less the chafing will influence the strength of the yarn, whereas a coarse and stiff fibre will produce the 
reverse result. 

COUNTS OF YARN REQUIRED TO PRODUCE A PERFECT STRUCTURE 

OF CLOTH. 

In speaking of the size or counts of a thread we mean the weight of solidity, or the bulkiness 
of a thread, or in other words the diameter of the same. These diameters in threads do not vary in the 
direct ratio to the respective counts, but do vary as to the square roots of their counts. Thus, if we find 
the diameter of a thread it will be easy for us to ascertain how many of those threads can rest side by 
side in one inch. 

Rule for finding the number of ends which in Cotton, Woolen, Worsted, Linen and Silk 

Yarns can lie side by side in one inch. 

Find number of yards per pound for the yarn in question and extract the square root of this 
number. From this square root deduct four per cent, for raw-silk yarns, seven per cent, for cotton, spun 
silk and linen yams, ten per cent, for worsted yarns, and sixteen per cent, for woolen yarns. The 
answer in each case indicates the number of threads that will lie side by side in one inch (without being 
interlaced at right angles by another system). 

Example. — Find number of threads of l's cotton yarn which will lie side by side in one inch. 
840 yards per lb. Thus: i/840=28.9 28.9 

— 2.0 (7 per cent.) 



26.9 



Answer.— 26A threads (practically 27) of single l's cotton yarn will rest side by side in one inch. 

Example. — Find number of threads of 2's cotton yarn which will lie side by side in one inch. 
840X2=1680 yards per lb. Thus: V 1^680=40.9 40.9 

— 2.8 (7 per cent.) 



38.1 



Answer.— 38ts threads (practically 38) of single 2's cotton yarn will rest side by side in one inch. 



59 

Example. — Find number of ends of 2/50's cotton yarn which will He side by side in one inch. 
2/50'scotton=l/25's=840X 25=21,000 yards per lb. Thus: j 21,000=144.9 144.9 

— 10.1 (7 percent.) 



134.8 
Anmoer. — 134£ threads (practically 135) of 2/50's cotton yarn will rest side by side in one inch. 

Example. — Find nnmbcr of threads of 6-run woolen yarn which will lie side by side in one inch. 

6-run=9,600 yards per lb. Thus : l/9,600=97.97 97.97 

— 15.67 (1(3 percent.) 



82.30 
Answer. — 82t 3 5 threads (practically 82) of 6-run woolen yarn will rest side by side in one inch. 

Example. — Find number of threads of 22-cut woolen yarn which will lie side by side in one inch. 
22-cut=6,600 yards per lb. Thus: •6^600 =81.24 s 81.24 

— 12.99 (16 per cent.) 



68.25 
Answer. — 684; threads (practically 68) of 22-cut woolen yarn will lie side by side in one inch. 

Example. — Find number of ends of 2/32's worsted that will lie side by side in one inch. 
2/32's=single 1 6's=560 Xl 6=8,960 yards per lb. Thus: t/8,960=94.6 94.6 

— 9.4 (10 per cent.) 

85.2 
Answer. — 85iir threads (practically 85) will lie side by side in one inch. 

Example. — Find number of threads of 40/3-ply spun silk which will lie side by side in one inch. 
40/3-ply=33,600 yards per lb. Thus: ^ 33,600=1 83.3 183.3 

— 12.8 (7 per cent.) 

170.5 
Answer. — 170J threads (practically 170) of 40/3-ply spun silk will rest side by side in one inch. 

Example. — Find number of threads of 4-dram raw silk which lie side by side in one inch. 
4-dram raw silk=64,000 yards per lb. Thus: t/64,000=252.9 252.9 

— 10.1 (4 per cent.) 

242.8 
Answer. — 242i threads (practically 243) of 4-dram silk will rest side by side in one inch. 

To illustrate clearly to the student that the diameter of a thread (i. e., respectively the number of 
threads which will lie side by side in one inch) does not vary in the direct ratio to its counts, but in the 
ratio of the square root of its counts, we give three examples, using for the first example a single yarn ; 
for the next the same number in 2-ply ; and for the third the same number in 3-ply. 

Examples. — Find number of threads that will lie side by side for the following yarns : Single 
30's cotton, 2/30's cotton, and 3/30's cotton yarn. 

30's cotton=25,200 yards per lb. 

Thus: T / 25,200=158.7 158.7 

— 11.1 (7 percent.) 

147.6 threads (practically 148) of 30's cotton yarn will lie side by side in one inch. 



60 

2/30's cotton=12,600 yards per lb. 

Thus: T / 12,600= 11 2. 2 112.2 

— 7.9 (7 per cent.) 



104.3 threads (practically 104) of 2/30's cotton yarn will lie side by side in 
one inch. 
3/30's cotton=8,400 yards per lb. 
Thus: T /^400 =91.6 1.6 

— 6.4 (7 per cent.) 

85.2 threads (practically 85) of 3/30's cotton yarn will lie side by side in 
one inch. 

Answer. — Single 30's cotton=148 threads per inch. 
2/30's " =104 " " " 
3/30's " = 85 " « " 

Table Showing the Number of Ends of Cotton Yarn from Single 5's to 2/160's that 'Will Lie 

Side by Side in One Inch. 



Counts. 


Yards per 


Square 


7 


Diameter, 

or Ends 

per iuch. 


Counts. 


Yards per 


Square 




Diameter, 
or Ends 






Pound. 


Root. 


Per Cent. 






Pound. 


Root. 


Per Cent. 


Single. 


Double. 


Single. 
22 


Double. 


per iuch. 


5 


2/10 


4,200 


64.S 


4-5 


60.3 


2/44 


18,480 


135-9 


9-5 


126.4 


6 


2/12 


5,040 


70.9 


50 


65-9 


24 


2/48 


20,160 


141. 8 


9-9 


I3I-9 


7 


2/14 


5,8So 


76.6 


5-4 


71.2 


26 


2/52 


21,840 


147-7 


10.3 


137-4 


8 


2/l6 


6,720 


81.9 


5-7 


76.2 


28 


2/56 


23,520 


153 3 


10.7 


142.6 


10 


2/20 


8,400 


91.6 


6.4 


85.2 


30 


2/60 


25,200 


158.7 


11. 1 


147.6 


11 


2/22 


9.240 


96.1 


6.7 


89.4 


32 


2/64 


26,880 


163.S 


11. 5 


152.3 


12 


2/24 


10,080 


100.3 


7.0 


93-3 


34 


2/6S 


28,560 


168.9 


11.8 


I57-I 


13 


2/26 


10,920 


104.4 


7-3 


97.1 


3& 


2/72 


30,240 


173-8 


12.2 


161.6 


14 


2/28 


11,760 


108.4 


76 


100.8 


38 


2/ 7 b 


31,920 


178.6 


12-5 


166. 1 


15 


2/30 


12,600 


112. 2 


7-9 


104.3 


40 


2/S0 


33,6oo 


183-3 


12.8 


170.5 


16 


2/32 


13.440 


"5-9 


8.1 


107.8 


45 


2/90 


37,8oo 


194.4 


13.6 


1 So. 8 


17 


2/34 


14,280 


1 19.4 


8-3 


in. 1 


50 


2/100 


42,000 


204.9 


14-3 


190.6 


18 


2/36 


15,120 


122.9 


8.6 


"4-3 


60 


2/120 


50,400 


224.4 


15-7 


208.7 


19 


2/3« 


15,960 


126.3 


8.8 


"7-5 


70 


2/140 


58,800 


242.4 


17.0 


225.4 


20 


2/40 


16,800 


129.6 


9.0 


120.6 


80 


2/160 


67,200 


259.2 


18.1 


241. 1 



For Spun Silks use also above table, but only refer to single count column for reference for any number of ply 
of spun silk. 

Table Showing the Number of Ends of Woolen Yarn "Run Basis," from i-run to 10-run, 

that Will Lie Side by Side in One Inch. 



Run. 


Yards per 
Pound. 


Square 
Root. 


16 
Per Cent. 


Diameter, 

or Ends 

Per Inch. 


Run. 


Yards per 
Pound. 


Square 
Root. 


16 
Per Cent. 


Diameter, 

or Ends 

Per Inch. 


1 


1,600 


40.0 


6.4 


33-6 


4% 


7,600 


87.2 


14.0 


73-3 


I* 


2,000 


44-7 


7.2 


37-5 


5 


8,000 


89.4 


14 3 


75-i 


I* 


2,400 


497 


8.0 


41.7 


5'A 


8,400 


91.6 


14.7 


76.9 


I* 


2,800 


52.8 


8.4 


44-4 


5/2 


8,800 


93-8 


15.0 


78.8 


2 . 


3,200 


56.5 


9.0 


47-5 


sH 


9,200 


95-8 


15-3 


80.5 


2^ 


3,600 


60.0 


9.6 


5°-4 


6 


9,600 


97-9 


15-6 


82.3 


*% 


4,000 


63.2 


10. 1 


53-i 


6% 


10,000 


100.0 


16.0 


84.0 


2^ 


4,400 


66.3 


10.6 


55-7 


(>% 


10,400 


101.9 


16.3 


S5.6 


3 


4,800 


69.2 


11. 


58.2 


6U 


10,800 


103.9 


16.6 


87 3 


i% 


5,200 


72.1 


«-5 


60.6 


7 


1 1 ,200 


105 s 


16.9 


889 


3 l A 


5,600 


74-8 


11. 9 


62.9 


7% 


12,000 


109.5 


17-5 


92.0 


1% 


6,000 


77-4 


12.3 


65.1 


8 


12,800 


113.1 


18. 1 


95 -o 


4 . 


6,400 


80.0 


12.8 


67.2 


8/z 


13,600 


116.6 


18.6 


98.0 


4% 


6,800 


82.4 


I3-I 


69-3 


9.0 


14,400 


120.0 


19.2 


100.8 


4% 


7,200 


84.8 


13-5 


7'-3 


IO 


16,000 


126.4 


20.2 


106.2 



Gl 



Table Showing the Number of Ends of Woolen Yarn " Cut Basis," 

that Will Lie Side by Side in One Inch. 



from 6-cut to 50-cut 



Cut. 


Yards per 
Pound. 


Square 
Root. 


16 
Per Cent. 


Diameter, 

or Ends 

Per Inch. 


Cut. 


Yards per 
Pouud. 


Square 

Root. 


16 
Per Cent. 


Diameter, 
or Ends 
P( t Inch. 


6 


1,800 


42.4 


6.8 


35-6 


22 


6,600 


Si. 2 


13.0 


68.2 


8 


2,400 


49-7 


8.0 


41-7 


23 


6,900 


83.0 


'3-3 


69.7 


9 


2,700 


51-9 


8-3 


43-6 


24 


7,200 


84.8 


13-5 


71-3 


10 


3,000 


54-7 


S.S 


45-9 


25 


7,50o 


86.6 


13.8 


72.8 


1 1 


3.30O 


57-4 


9.2 


48.2 


26 


7 . S. 11 . 


88.3 


14.1 


74.2 


12 


3,600 


60.0 


9.6 


50.4 


27 


8,100 


90.0 


14.4 


75-6 


13 


3.900 


62.4 


10. 


52-4 


28 


8,400 


91.6 


14-7 


77.0 


'4 


4,200 


64.8 


10.4 


544 


29 


8,700 


93-2 


14.9 


78.3 


■5 


4,5oo 


67.0 


10.7 


56.3 


30 


9,000 


94.8 


15-2 


79-6 


16 


4,800 


69.2 


11.0 


58.2 


32 


9,600 


97-9 


15-7 


82.2 


17 


5,100 


71.4 


11. 4. 


60.0 


34 


10,200 


100.9 


16 1 


84.8 


iS 


5,4oo 


73-5 


11.8 


61.7 


36 


10,800 


103.4 


16.5 


86.9 


19 


5,7oo 


75-4 


12.0 


03-4 


40 


12,000 


109-5 


17-5 


92.0 


20 


6,000 


77-4 


12.3 


65.1 


45 


13,500 


116. 1 


1 8.6 


97-5 


21 


6,300 


79-3 


12.7 


66.6 


50 


15.000 


122.4 


19.6 


102.8 



Table Showing the Number of Ends of "Worsted Yarn," from Single 5's 

Will Lie Side by Side in One Inch. 



to 2/160 that 



Counts. 








Diameter, 


Counts. 








Diameter, 




Yards per 
Pound. 


Square 
Root. 


10 
Per Cent. 


or Ends 






\ ards per 
Pound. 


Square 


10 
Per Cent. 


or Ends 


Single. 


Double. 


per Inch. 


Single. 


Double. 


Root. 


per inch. 


5 


2/lO 


2,Soo 


52.9 


5-3 


47.6 


22 


2/44 


12,320 


110.9 


11. 1 


99. S 


6 


2/12 


3,360 


57-9 


5-8 


52.1 


24 


2/48 


13,440 


U5-9 


11. 6 


1043 


7 


2/14. 


3,920 


62.6 


6-3 


56.3 


26 


2/52 


14,560 


120.6 


12. 1 


108.5 


8 


2/16 


4,4So 


66.8 


6.7 


60 1 


28 


2/56 


15,680 


125.2 


125 


112. 7 


10 


2/20 


5,6oo 


74 8 


7-5 


67.3 


30 


2/60 


16,800 


129.6 


13.0 


1 16.6 


11 


2 22 


6,160 


78.4 


7S 


70.6 


32 


2/64 


17,920 


133-8 


13-4 


120.4 


12 


2/24 


6,720 


81.9 


8.2 


73-7 


34 


2/68 


19,040 


137-9 


13.8 


124. 1 


13 


2/26 


7,280 


85.3 


8.5 


76.8 


36 


2/72 


20,160 


141. S 


14.2 


127.6 


14 


2/28 


7,840 


88.5 


8.8 


79-7 


38 


2/76 


21,280 


M5 8 


14.6 


131-2 


15 


2/30 


8,400 


91.6 


9.2 


82.4 


40 


2/80 


22,400 


149.6 


150 


134-6 


16 


2/32 


8,960 


94.6 


9-4 


852 


45 


2/90 


25,200 


158.6 


15.9 


142.7 


17 


2/34 


9,52o 


97-5 


9-7 


878 


50 


2/100 


28,000 


167.3 


16.7 


150.6 


18 


a/36 


10,080 


100.3 


10.0 


90.3 


60 


2/120 


33,6oo 


183.3 


18.3 


165.0 


19 


2/38 


10,640 


103. 1 


10.3 


92.8 


70 


2/140 


39, 200 


197.9 


19.8 


1 78. 1 


20 


2/40 


11,200 


105.8 


10.6 


95-2 


80 


2/160 


44,800 


211. 6 


21.2 


190.4 



Table Showing the Number of Ends of Raw Silk Yarn, from 20 Drams to 1 Dram, that 

will Lie Side by Side in One Inch. 























Dram. 


\ ards per 
Pound 


Square 
Root. 


4 
per Cent. 


or Ends 
per inch. 


Dram . 


Yards per 
Pound 


Square 
Root. 


11 
Per Cent. 


or Ends 
per inch. 


20 


12,800 


113.I 


4-5 


108.6. 


5 


51,200 


226 2 


9.0 


217.2 


18 


14,222 


119.2 


48 


114. 4 


4 3 A 


53,368 


231.0 


9.2 


221.8 


16 


16,000 


126.4 


5-o 


121. 4 


4/z 


56,889 


23S.5 


9-5 


229.0 


14 


18,286 


135-2 


5-4 


129.8 


A l A 


60,235 


245-4 


9.8 


235-6 


12 


21.333 


146.0 


5-8 


140.2 


4 


64,000 


252-9 


10. 1 


242.8 


10 


25,600 


160.0 


6.4 


153 6 


3X 


68,267 


261.2 


10.4 


250.8 • 


9'A 


26,947 


164. 1 


6.6 


157-5 


7>A 


73,143 


270.4 


10.8 


2596 


9 


28,444 


16S.6 


6-7 


161 9 


3* 


78,769 


280.6 


11. 2 


2694 


%A 


30,118 


173-5 


6.9 


166.6 


3 


85,333 


292.1 


11.7 


280.4 


8 


32,000 


178.8 


7-i 


I7I-7 


2 K 


93>09i 


305-1 


12.2 


292 9 


7'A 


34,133 


184.7 


7-4 


'77-3 


2'A 


102,400 


320.0 


12.8 


307.2 


7 


36,57t 


191. 2 


7.6 


183.6 


2X 


H3,777 


337-2 


13-5 


323-7 


6'A 


39,385 


198.4 


7-9 


190-5 


2 


128,000 


357-7 


14-3 


343-4 


6 


42,667 


206.5 


8.2 


I98-3 


1% 


170,666 


4I3- 1 


16.5 


396.6 


sA 


46,545 


2'5-7 


8.6 


207.1 


I 


256,600 


505-9 


20.2 


485-7 



62 



Table Showing the Number of Ends of Linen Yarns from io's to ioo's that Will Lie Side 

by Side in One Inch. 



Counts. 



10 

12 

14 
16 

iS 
20 
22 

24 
26 
28 
30 
32 
34 
36 
38 



Yards per 
Pound. 



3,000 
3,600 
4,200 
4,800 
5,4oo 
6,000 
6,600 
7,200 
7,800 
8,400 
9,000 
9,600 
10,200 
10,800 
11,400 



Square 


7 


Root. 


Per Cent 


54-7 


3-3 


60.0 


4.0 


64.8 


45 


69.2 


4.8 


73-5 


5-i 


77-4 


5-4 


81.2 


5 7 


84.8 


59 


88.3 


6.1 


91.6 


64 


94.8 


6.6 


97-9 


68 


100.9 


7.0 


103.9 


7 2 


[06. 7 


74 



Diameter, 

or Ends 

Per Inch. 



50.9 
56.0 
60.3 
64.4 
68.4 
72.0 

75-5 
789 
82.2 
85.2 
88.2 
91. 1 
93-9 
96.7 
99-3 



Counts. 



40 

42 
44 
46 
48 
50 
55 
60 

65 
70 

75 
80 

85 

90 

100 



Yards per 
Pound. 



12,000 
12,600 
13,200 
13,800 
'1.4"" 
15,000 
16,500 
18,000 
19,500 
21,000 
22,500 
24,000 
25,500 
27,000 
30,000 



Square 


7 


Root. 


Per Cent 


109-5 


76 


112. 2 


78 


114.8 


8.0 


117.4 


8.2 


120.0 


84 


122 4 


8.6 


128.4 


9.0 


134 1 


93 


t39 6 


9.8 


144.9 


10.0 


150.0 


i°5 


J54-9 


108 


'59-6 


11. a 


i64-3 


ii-5 


173.2 


12. 1 



Diameter, 

or Ends 

Per Inch. 



101.9 
1044 
106 8 
109.2 
in. 6 
113.8 
1194 
124 8 
129 8 
134-9 
139 5 
144 1 
148.4 
1528 
161. 1 



TO FIND THE DIAMETER OF A THREAD BY MEANS OF A GIVEN DIAMETER 

OF ANOTHER COUNT OF YARN. 

If the number of* threads of a given count which will lie side by side (i. c, its diameter) in one 
inch (without riding) are known, the required number of threads (which will also lie side by side) 
for another count of the same system can be found by — 

Rule. — The given counts of which we know the diameter are to the counts for which we have to 
find the diameter in the same ratio as the given diameter squared is to the required diameter squared. 

Example. — As shown in a previous example, 148 threads of single 30's cotton yarn will lie side by 
side in one inch (or the diameter of a thread of 30's cotton yarn is the tts part of one inch) ; required 
to find by rule given the number of threads that will lie side by side in one inch for 2/30's cotton yarn. 

2/30's=singlel5's. 



jo 



•1 



Given counts 

30 : 

VT5X148X148 
30 



Required counts. \ ;; j Diameter squared of) . \ Diameter squared of 

15 :: 



\ the given counts, f ' \ the required counts. J 



Thus: 15x148x148=328,560-^30=10,952, and 1 /10,952=104 



Answer. — 104 threads of 2/30's, or 1/15's cotton yarn, will lie side by side in one inch. 
Proof.— 2/30 cotton yarn= 12,600 yards per lb. 
Thus: i/T2^600=112.2 112.2 

— 7.9 (7 per cent.) 

104.3 (practically 104) being the same answer as previously received. 

Example. — 85 threads of 2/32's worsted yarn will lie side by side in one inch, required to find 
the number of threads which will lie side by side in one inch with 2/40's worsted yarn. 

2/30's=l/16's 2/40's=l/20's. 



16:20:: 85 2 



x, or y 20x85 x85 and 85x85x20=144,500-5-16=9,031 l / 9,031=95 
16 



Answer. — 95 threads of 2/40's worsted yarn will lie side by side in one inch. 



63 

Proof.— 2/40's worsted =560x20= 11, 200 yards per lb. 

Thus: ,/l 1,200=1 or, 105 

— 10 (10 per cent.) 



95, being the same answer as received by the previous process, 

Example. — 84 threads of 6£-run woolen yarn lie side by side in one inch, required to find the 
number of threads which will lie side by side in 4-run woolen yarn. 

6i:4::84 2 : x or l 4x84 <84 &nd 8 4 X 84=7,056 X4=28,224-=-6i=4,51 5 and I / 47515=67.2 

6.25 

Answer. — 67 threads (actually 67.2) of 4-run woolen yarn will lie side by side in one inch. 
JProo/— 4-run=4X 1,600=6,400 yards per lb. 



Thus: i 6,400=80.0 80.0 

—12.8 



67.2, being the same answer as previously received. 

Example. — 68£ threads per inch is the average number of threads which will lie side by side for 
22-cut woolen yarn, required to find the number of threads for 30-cut woolen yarn. 

22:30:: 68 1 2 : x or 684; X 684; X 30 , 

22 _ 8n 



68.25 X68.25x30=139,741.875h-22=6,351. 1/6,351=79 
Answer. — 79 threads of 30-cut woolen yarn will lie side by side in one inch. 
Proof. — 30-cut woolen yarn=9,000 yards per lb. 

Thus : i/9,000=94 94 

— 15 (16 per cent.) 

79, being the same answer as received by previously given process. 

TO FIND THE COUNTS OF YARN REQUIRED FOR A GIVEN WARP 

TEXTURE BY MEANS OF A KNOWN WARP TEXTURE WITH THE 

RESPECTIVE COUNTS OF THE YARN GIVEN. 

A. Dealing with One Material. 

If we know the number of ends of a given count of yarn that will lie side by side in one inch 
(technically their diameter), and we want to ascertain the counts of yarn required for a certain number 
of threads to lie side by side (diameter), we must use — 

Rule. — As the given diameter squared is to the required diameter squared, so is the given count 
to the required count. 

Example. — 85 threads of 2/32's worsted lie side by side in one inch, required to find the counts of 
yarn for 95 threads per inch. 

85 2 : 95 2 :: 16: x 
(85X85):(95X95)::16: x 
7,225 : 9,025 :: 16: x 
9,025 X 16=144,400-4-7,225=20 

Answer. — 1/20's or 2/40's worsted yarn is the number of yarn wanted. 



64 

Proof. — 2/40's or 1/ 20's wo rsted yarn =11,200 yards per lb. 
Thus : T /l 1,200=105 105 

— 10 (10 per cent.) 



95 threads of 1/20's worsted will lie side by side; being 
the same answer as texture given in example. 



6£ :x 
6J :x 
6.25: x 
7,056=4.09 



Example. — 84 threads of 6^-run woolen yarn, lie side by side in one inch, required to find the 
counts of yarn for 68 threads per inch. 

84 2 : 68 2 
(84X84): (68X68) 
7,056 : 4,624 
4,624x6.25=28,900- 

Answer. — 4-ruu (actual counts 4.1 -run) yarn must be used. 
Proof. — 4.1-run=6,560 yards per lb. 
Thus: i/6,560=81 81 
—13 

68 threads of 4-run (4.1) woolen yarn will lie side by side in 
one inch, being the same number as given in example. 

B. Dealing with Two or More Materials. 

Frequently it happens that we have to reproduce a cloth from a given sample or texture, etc., in 
another material. For example, a worsted cloth may be required to be duplicated in woolen yarn. If 
such is the case, transfer counts of yarn given, or as ascertained from sample given, into its equivalent 
counts of the required grading, and take care of the difference of 6 per cent, between the diameters of 
threads that will lie side by side in one inch of a woolen yarn compared to worsted yarn. In a similar 
manner proceed if dealing with other yarns. 

P. S. — The allowance for worsted yarn in all the samples given is based (as also previously men- 
tioned) on 10 per cent.; for cotton yarn and spun silk on 7 per cent.; for raw silk on 4 per cent, and 
for woolen yarn on 16 per cent. These allowances refer to a perfect and smooth A 1 yarn ; but if such 
should not be the case, we are required to make, according to the yarn, a proportional allowance of one, 
two, or. three per cent. more. 

INFLUENCE OF THE (AMOUNT AND DIRECTION) TWIST OF YARNS UPON 

THE TEXTURE OF A CLOTH. 

The influence of the twist of a yarn upon the number of warp threads to use per inch depends 
upon the amount of the twist, as well as the direction of the latter. It will easily be understood by 
the student that the more twist we put in a yarn the less space the same will occupy ; i. e., the smaller 
its diameter, and the less chances for a chafing; hence, we can use a "heavier" texture (more ends 
per inch) with a hard-twisted yarn compared to a soft-twisted yarn. But it must be remembered that 
the amount of twist to use is again regulated by the character of the fabric the yarn is used for, since 
the yarn will lose on softness the harder we twist it, and that a hard-twisted yarn will reduce the fulling 
properties of the cloth during the process of finishing. Again, hard-twisted yarn will not bend as easily 
around the filling during weaving as a soft yarn, which no doubt might injure the general appearance of 
the face of the cloth. This will also illustrate another point; i. <?., the width of the cloth to use in loom. 
As previously mentioned, the harder we twist a yarn the less chances there are for fulling ; hence, 
fabrics made with hard-twisted yarn must be set narrower in loom than fabrics made with a softer 
twisted yarn. Thus we will set a fancy worsted suiting (in an average) only from 60 to 62 



65 

inches wide in loom, and a fancy cassimere or fancy woolen suiting (in an average) from 70 to 72 
inches wide, and yet tlie finished width for both will lie 54 inches. 

To explain the influence of the direction of the twist of the yarn upon die texture of a cloth, 
Figs. 6 and 7 are given. Fig. illustrates the interlacing with yarns spun with its twist in the same 
direction ; i. e., from left to light (technically known as right hand twist.) Fig. 7 illustrates the inter- 
lacing of a similar cloth with right hand twist yarn for the warp, hut left hand twist yarn (the direc- 
tion of the twist being from the right to the left) for the filling. It will readily he seen by the student 
that if, using in both examples the same counts of yarn for warp and filling, the combination, as 
shown in Fig. 7, will allow a readier compressing of the filling for forming the cloth, compared to the 





using of warp and filling, as illustrated in diagram, Fig. 6 ; i. e., if using the same direction of twist 
for warp and filling yarn, larger perforations will appear in the cloth than if using opposite twist for 
both systems, since in the first instance, the twist of both yarns will cross each other, thus resisting 
compression ; whereas, if using opposite twist in the spinning of the two systems of yarns, the twist of 
both yarns will be in the same direction when interlacing, and thus a falling of the twist in each other 
be produced. 

Rule. — We may use a heavier texture for warp and filling, if using opposite twist in the spinning 
of the yarns, than if using the same direction of twist for both systems. 

The finer in quality and the longer in its staple the material is, as used in the manufacture of a 
yarn, the less twist is necessary to impart to the thread for giving it the requisite strength ; whereas, the 
shorter and coarser the material the more twist we must use. The actual amount of twist to use 
depends entirely upon the material and counts of yarn, as well as weave and process of finishing 
required. For a fabric requiring a smooth, clear face, we must use more twist in the yarn than for 
such as used in the manufacture of cloth requiring a nap; i. e., much giging, or "velvet finish." 



TO FIND THE AMOUNT OF TWIST REQUIRED FOR A YARN, IF THE 

COUNTS AND TWIST OF A YARN OF THE SAME SYSTEM, (AND 

FOR THE SAME KIND OF FABRIC) BUT OF DIFFERENT 

COUNTS ARE KNOWN. 

The points as to amount of twist to use for the different counts of yarn manufactured are based 
between each other upon the fact that the diameters of threads vary in the same ratio as the square 
roots of their counts. 

Example. — Find twist required for a 40's yarn, if a 32's yarn of the same material requires 17 
turns per inch (twist wanted in proportion the same). 



32:40 ::17 2 : x, or ' 4QXl7Xl7 ' or 1 / 361.25=19. 

32 

Answer. — 19 turns per inch are required. 

or, y'32 :l 40 ::17: x l/32 =5.65 l/40=6.32. 

Hence: 5.05:6.32 :: 17: x 6.32x17=107.44-^5.65=19. 

Answer. — 19 turns per inch are required (being the same answer as previously received. 



INFLUENCE OF THE WEAVE UPON THE TEXTURE OF A FABRIC. 

In the previous chapter we have given a clear understanding as to the number of threads of any 
counts of yarn, and of any kind of material, that will properly lie side by side in one inch. We now 
take this same item into consideration, but in addition, with reference to the different weaves as used in 
the manufacture of textile fabrics ; i. e., give rules for constructing with a given weave and given count 
of yarn, a cloth which has a proper texture. 

Rule. — The less floats of warp and filling (i. e., the greater the number of interfacings between 
both systems) in a given number of threads of each system, the lower the texture of the cloth (the less 
number ends and picks per inch) must be ; and consequently the less interfacings of warp and filling 
in a given number of threads of each system, the higher a texture in the cloth we can use. For example, 
examinino- the 8-harness twill shown in Fig. 8, we find each thread to interlace twice in one repeat of 
the weave, thus actually 8 + 2=10 threads will lie side by side for each repeat (since by means of the 
interlacing of the filling with the warp the former takes, at the places of interlacing, the place, with 
regard to its diameter, of one thread of the latter system). Suppose we used 64 warp threads to one 
inch, we find the threads that will lie side by side in one inch as follows : 



■■■ 
■■■■ 



f Warp threads in ) ( Warp ami filling ) I ,,. threads 1 \ ' nreads . lvl °S 

one repeat of I : threads in one re- :: *"? inch : } side by side in - 

( the weave. j (. peat of the weave. J I v J ( one inch. ) 



10 :: 64 



- d ^ = 80 

Answer. — 8-harness * — i twill, 64 warp threads per inch, equals 80 diameters of threads per inch. 

Example. — Find the number of diameter of threads per inch, using the same number of warp 
threads as before (64) per inch, and for weave the plain weave shown in Fig. 9. 

The repeat of the latter weave is 2 threads, = 2 interfacings in repeat ; thus, with reference to the 
64 warp threads per inch used, we find 64 interfacings of the filling. 

?gg Hence: 2:4:: 64: x and 4X64 100 

12 — - — = izs 

Fig. 9. 2 

Ansiver. — Plain weave, 64 warp threads per inch, equals 128 diameters of threads per inch. 

No doubt these two examples will readily demonstrate to the designer the value of examining the 
number of interlacings of any new weave. If, iu given examples, the first mentioned " make up" A — i 
8-harness twill, 64 warp threads per inch, using the required material and counts of yarn is producing 
a perfect fabric, and we want to change to plain weaving, using the same yarn, we must deduct I of 
the number of warp threads (and correspondingly also of the filling) to produce the same number' of 
diameters of threads side by side as in previously given example ; i. e., we must only use 40 warp 
threads per inch, since those 40 diameters of the warp yarn, plus 40 diameters of the filling, by means 
of the principle of the interlacing of the plain weave, produce the (equal number as before) 80 diameters 
of threads side by side in one inch. Hence we may put down for — 

Rule. — The weave of a cloth has an equal influence on the number of ends per inch to use 
as the counts of the yarn we are using. We mentioned previously that by the diameters of 
threads per one inch we mean the number of ends that could lie side by side per inch, providing 
there were no interlacings of both systems of threads; but since such interlacing or intertwining 
of the warp and filling must take place in order to produce cloth, we must deduct the number, 
or average number, of interlacings per inch from the originally obtained diameters of threads that will lie 
side by side per inch, to obtain the correct number of warp ends and picks we can use per inch. Thus 
far given explanations will readily assist the student to ascertain the number of threads of any material 
that will lie side by side (without riding) in one inch of the fabric (single cloth). Hence* 



67 



TO FIND THE TEXTURE OF A CLOTH USE— 

txide.. — Multiply the number of threads of :i given count of yarn that will lie side l>y side in one 
inch by the threads in one repeat of the pattern, and divide the product by the number of threads in 
repeat, plus the corresponding number of interfacings of both systems of threads found in one repeat of 
the weave. 

By the number of interfacings of a weave we understand the number of changes from riser to 
sinkers, and vice, verm, for each individual thread in each system. 



Examples. — Fig. 10 represents one pick of the common twill known as 2 --a '- z— *— a 

in one full repeat in Fig. 11. Diagram Fig. 12 illustrates 



and shown 



>■■ :. ■ ■ 

1 3 s 4 6 6 



Fig. 10. 




Fig. 



CBOg 
11. 



1 1 9 A G 6 7 9 910 
1 2 3 4 6 6 7 8 

Fig. 13 



I ■ ■ BQBaOB 


■ a b ■■ 


B B ■ ■■ 


B ■ BB B 


B B BB ■ 


B BB ■ B 


B BB B W 


urn m B B 


BB B B B 


IBBOBOBaBOd 


Fig. 15. 



the corresponding section to pick 1 shown in Fig. 10. 
TIil' full black spots represent one repeat, whereas the 
commencement of the second repeat is shown in dotted 
lines. A careful examination of both diagrams, Figs. 10 
and 12, will readily illustrate to the student the number of 
interfacings in one repeat (6), as indicated by corresponding numbers below diagram Fig. 12. Thus? 
in order to find the number of warp threads of a given count per inch for a cloth made with this 
weave, we must multiply the number of diameters of threads that will lie side by side with 10 (being one 
complete repeat of the weave) and divide the product thus derived by 16 (10 plus 6, or repeat plus 
number of interfacings). The result will be the required number of warp threads per inch. If given 

illustrations would refer to a 32-cut woolen yarn, we 
find answer as follows : 

32-cut yarn=9,600 yards per lb. 
32-cut yarn=82.2 threads will lie side by side. 
I. It" fit sT«- i- _ »• Thus: 82.2X10=822-I6=51i, or 

Fig. 14. 51 warp threads per inch (or actually 51 J per inch, or 

103 threads for every two inches; of 32-cut woolen yarn will be the proper number to use. In 
diagram Fig. 13 we illustrate a pick of another 10- harness twill weave. Fig. 14 represents the corre- 
sponding section, and Fig. 15 one complete repeat of the weave. 

All three diagrams show 8 points of interfacings for each thread in one repeat; hence, if applying 
counts of yarn from previously given example for this case we find : 

32-cut yarn=82.2 threads will lie side by side. Thus: 82.2xl0=822-=-18=45f , or 46 warp 
threads per inch (actually 45§) of 32-cut woolen yarn are the proper number of threads if using the 
2 ~r ' ~t ' i ' — j 10-harness twill. 

Answers. — For both given examples are as follows : 
Warp yarn used 32-cut woolen yarn. 

2 ■ 2 ' ~s - 1 -, 10-harness twill=6 interfacings=51 2 warp threads per inch. 

* :l '■ i- 1 - 1 *--t-10- " " =8 " =451 " " " 

A careful examination and recalculation of these two examples will readily illustrate to any 
student the entire modus operandi. 

Example. — Find number of threads for warp for a fancy worsted suiting, to be interlaced 

with the 6-harness * 1 twill (see Fig. 16) and made of 2/32's worsted yarn. (Fig. 17 illustrates 

number 1 pick separated and Fig. 18 its corresponding section.) 

■2 :!2=1/16=16X560=8,960 yards per lb. 
I 8,960 less 10 per ceut.=85 threads of 2/32's worsted yarn will lie ^ 

side by side in one inch. And 

y. j Repeat of j j repeat of jl _j_ j Interfacings 



B 
I 



• B 

B 

DOG 



Fig. 16 



ooo 



j Diameters / 
j per inch. \ 



i 



Fig. 17- 



per inch. \ ''" } weave, j" "( weave, f ~ r } in repeat. 

85 X 6 =510-5-8 (6 + 2) =64. 




68 

Answer. — 64 ends per inch is the proper warp texture for fabric given in example. 

Example. — Find proper number of threads to use for a woolen dress good, to be interlaced with the 

9-harness ^—i— 1 ' 1 -Hr twill (see Fig. 19), and for which we 
have to use 6J-run woolen yarn. 
■"■■"■388 (F'g- 20 represents pick 1 separated, and Fig. 21 its corresponding 

section.) 
FlG - 19 - 6-run=10,000 yards per lb. 

V 10 000 l ess 16 per cent.=84 threads of 6J-run woolen yarn, 
will lie side by side in one inch. 

84x9=756-s-17(9+8)=44,"r 



■ ■ ■ ■ ■ 

■ ■ ■ ■■ 

■ ■ ■ ■■ 

■ ■ ■■ ■ 

■ ■ ■■ ■ i 

■ ■■ ■ ■ 



B :f 4 5 6 7 8 9 
1 l l 3 4 5 16 

Fig. 20. 



2. 3- ■* s- 6- 7 g. Answer. — 44 threads per inch (actually 44i s ?) is the proper warp 



Fig. 21. 



texture for cloth given in example. 



_E«impfe.=Fiud the proper number of warp threads to use for a cotton dress good, using the plain 
!nm weave (see Fig. 22), with single 40's cotton yarn for warp. 
'K 40's cotton=40 X 840=33,600 yards per lb. 

T?TC OO 

l/33,600=183 — 13 (7 per cent.)=170 threads of 40's cotton yarn will lie side by side 
in one inch. 

Answer. — 85 threads of 40's cotton yarn, and interlaced with the plain, will produce a perfect texture. 

It will be proper to mention here another point which must also be more or less taken into con- 
sideration. During the process of weaving both systems of threads press more or less against each 
other, thus each thread is pushed to a certain degree out of position, consequently we may add to each 
system a slight advance, according to counts, texture and quality of material in question, without 
influencing the process of weaving or the handling of the fabric; but in all cases such an advance in 
threads (and picks) will be very small and is readily ascertained after finding, by rules given, number 
of ends and picks per inch, that could be used if no pressure from one system upon the other was exercised. 

If using a soft-twisted yarn for filling, the latter will have less influence for pressing the warp 
threads (harder-twisted yarn) out of position ; i. e., the filling will stretch and thus in proportion reduce 
the counts of the yarn, consequently a higher texture for such filling may be used. We may thus also 
mention this fact in the shape of a — 

Rule. — The softer the filling yarn is twisted, the more readily the same will interweave and the 
higher a warp texture we can use. Warp yarns are in most all cases harder twisted than the filling 
yarn as used in the same fabric, for the simple reason that the warp threads are subject to more strain 
and wear during the process of weaving compared to the filling. The softer a yarn is twisted, the 
softer the finished cloth will handle; and, if we refer, regarding this soft twist specially to the filling, the 
easier the same can be introduced in the warp during the process of weaving. This will explain 
the general method of using a few more picks per inch compared to the warp threads as used per inch 
in reed. But as everything has a limit we also must be careful not to use too many of these additional 
picks, for if " piling-in " even a soft filling too hard in a cloth during weaving, it will ultimately result 
in an imperfect fabric when finished. Frequently we would thus produce fabrics which require too 
much fulling, or which with all the fulling possible, could not be brought to its required finished width. 
The same trouble will also refer to the setting of a fabric too wide in reed, for the sake of producing 
heavier weight of cloth. Again, if setting a cloth too loose, either in warp or filling, or both 
systems, it will produce a finished fabric handling too soft, flimsy or spongy ; consequently great care must 
be exercised in the "setting of cloth " in order to produce good results, and rules given for foundation 
weaves (with reference to an average fair and most often used counts of yarn, producing what might 



69 

be termed staple textures and correspondingly staple fabrics) will form a solid basis to build upon for 
other fabrics as may be required to be made. Special fabrics, such as Union Cassi meres, Chinchillas, 
Wliitncvs, Montagnaes and other pile fabrics, are left out of question. 

Example. — -Fancy Cassimere: Weave " — 1 twill (sec Fig. 2.3). Yarn to use, 22-cut. 

'* ml Question. — -Find the proper number of threads for one inch to use. 

■ ! ■■ 22-cut=22x 300=6,600 yards per lb. And 

Fig. 23. . 

I 6,600, less 16 per cent.=68j threads of 22-cut woolen yarn will lie side by side in one inch. 

68iX4 
4+2 =68iX4=273-^6=45i. 

Answer. — 15 threads per inch (actually 91 threads for two inches) are the proper number of 

threads to use for the cloth given in example. In this weave (? twill) warp and filling interlace 

after every two threads. In previously given example (the plain weave) warp and filling interlaced 
alternately; hence, if comparing the plain weave and the 4-harness even-sided twill we find : 
Plain weave=4 points of interfacings in 4 threads. 
5 twill=2 points of interfacings in 4 threads. 

Previously we also mentioned that the space between the warp threads where the intersection takes 
place must be (or must be nearly as large) equal to the diameter of the filling yarn (also vice versa) ; 
thus, if comparing both weaves, using the same yarn for warp and filling in each example, we find in 
the plain weave : 
4 points of interfacings of the filling in 
4 warp threads, giving us 

8 diameters of threads in four threads, or two repeats of the plain weave, and in the 4-harness 

even-sided twill we only find : 
2 points of interfacings of the filling in 
4 warp threads, giving us 

6 diameters of threads iu four threads, or one repeat of the 5 twill weave. 

Again in the plain weave we find : 
4 intersections of each warp thread in 
4 picks, giving 

8 diameters of threads in four threads, or two repeats of the plain weave, and in the 4-harness 

even-sided twill we find : 
2 intersections of each warp thread in 
4 picks, giving 

6 diameters of threads in four threads, or one repeat of the twill weave. 

Hence, the proportion of the texture between a cloth woven with the plain weave and the 4-har- 
ness twill will lie as 6:8 or 3:4. 

Consequently if 60 ends per inch (in each system), woven with the plain weave, produce a well- 
balanced cloth, and we want to use the same yarn for producing a similar perfect cloth, woven with the 
? — twill, we find the number of threads required readily by the following proportion : 

) Ratio of the plain weave com- 1 . . ( Texture used with the plain ) j Texture to be used with the ) 

( pared to the 4-harciess twill. I | weave. J" j 4-haruess twill. J 

3 : 4 :: 60 : x 

4X60 
— o — —4 X 20=80 threads must be used in proportion with the 4-harness even-sided twill to 

produce a well-balanced cloth structure. 



70 

This example will also explain that the less points of intersections we find in a given number of 
threads interlaced with one weave, compared to the same number of threads interlaced with another 
weave, the higher a texture we must employ, producing at the same time a proportional heavier cloth. 

TO CHANGE THE TEXTURE FOR GIVEN COUNTS OF YARN FROM ONE 

WEAVE TO ANOTHER. 

Rule. — The repeat of the given weave multiplied by repeat plus points of intersections of the 
required weave is to repeat of the required weave, multiplied by the repeat, plus points of intersections 
of the given weave, the same as the ends per inch of the given cloth are to the ends per inch for the 
required cloth. Thus we will find answer to previously given example by this rule, as follows* 

(2X(4+2):(4X(2-r-2))::60: x and 

(2X12) : (4X4) ::60: x and 

12 : 16 :: 60: x ; hence, 

1 fi v flO 

— r^ — =16X5=80 threads must be used, being the same answer as previously received. 

Example. — Fancy Worsted Suiting. Weave * — j 6-harness twill (see Fig. 24). Warp and filling 
6 S5BBS5 2/32's worsted. Texture, 64X64. Question: Find texture required for producing a well 
!■"■" balanced cloth using the same counts of yarn with the -r — -~ 9-harness twill (see Fig. 25) 

for weave. 

(6x(9 + 4) ):(9X(6 + 2)) :: 64: x 
;■ ." _, (6X13) : (9X8) :: 64: x 

78 : 72 ::64:x 



Fig. 34. 



■ ■■■ 

UJOIIIlJOI 

.sffiV'i 72X64 _ _ 12X64 



1? '^"^ = **^»-* 12X64=768-h13=59tV 

Fig. 25. 78 13 

Answer. — The number of ends to be used with 2/32's worsted, and the ? g 2 1 twill are 59 ends 
per inch. 

TO CHANGE THE WEIGHT OF A FABRIC WITHOUT INFLUENCING ITS 

GENERAL APPEARANCE. 

Previously we mentioned " the less points of interfacings we find in a given number of threads 
the higher a texture (more threads per inch) we can use in the construction of a cloth." This will 
also apply to the use of a heavier count of yarn, or both items (higher texture and heavier yarn) at 
the same time. In the construction of a new fabric we are frequently required to produce a fabric of a 
given weight per yard ; hence, after we find by rules given that the yarn we intend to use will, with its 
corresponding texture and weave, produce a cloth either too heavy or too light, we must carefully con- 
sider how to remedy this. In some instances the difference could be balanced by either laying the 
cloth wider or narrower in the reed, or shorter or longer at the dressing, and regulate the weight during 
the finishing process ; i. c, full the flannel to the required weight. By some fabrics (of an inferior 
grade) we might also regulate the weight to some extent during the fulling process (by adding more or 
less flocks, the latter of which will felt during the fulling to the back, and partly between both sys- 
tems of threads the fabric is composed of. But in most fabrics a too heavy or too little fulling or addi- 
tional flocking (according to the class of cloth) would reduce or destroy the beauty of its face, and 
thus decrease its value ; hence we must regulate texture, weave, and counts of yarn to be used, to a cer- 
tain extent, to suit the weight per yard of the finished fabric required. Most always the heavier 
a weight is wanted, the heavier a yarn we must use, and in turn suit texture to the latter. Again, the 
lighter in weight a cloth is required, the finer counts of yarn we must" use, also with a proportional 
regulation of the texture. If the weight per yard in a given fabric is required to be changed (either 



71 

increased or reduced) without altering the weave, or the width in reed, or length dressed (i. e., want 
the now cloth to be fulled about the same amount as the given), we must alter the counts of the yarn in 
the process of spinning, producing a heavier yarn if a heavier cloth is wanted, and a lighter yarn if a 
lighter cloth is wanted. 

Rule. — The ratio between the required weight per yard squared and the given weight per yard 
squared, is in the same ratio as the counts of yarn in the given cloth are to the counts of yarn required 
for use iii the new cloth. 

Example. — Suppose we are making the following cloth : 

.;■ Fancy Cassimere : 3,240 ends in warp. 10 per cent, take-up during weaving. Weave 

1 * given in Fig. 2(3. 72 inches width in loom. Warp and filling, 22-eut woolen yarn. 
w j „ Weight of flannel from loom, 17.2 oz. 

Weave - i twill. © ' 

Question. — Find the proper counts of yarn to use if given weight, 17.2 oz., is to be changed to 
19.1 oz.; i. c, a flannel of 19.1 oz. is required (from loom). 

Memo.— In this, as well as the following example, no reference to any selvage is taken. 

{Required weight / . / 
squared. J ' \ 

19.1 2 : 

(19.1X19.1) : 

364.81 : 

29,5.84X22 

— - - 17 9 

364.81 — x '- y 

Answer. — 18-cut yarn is required. 

Example. — Prove previously given example for each texture; a, as to weight, and b, as to the 
proper construction according to rules given. 

i. Given Cloth. 

a. Ascertain given weight (17.2 oz.). 

Fancy Cassimere : 3,240 ends in warp. 10 percent, take-up during weaving. Weave, - — ; 4-har- 
ness twill. 72 inches width in loom. 48 picks per inch. Warp and filling, 22-cut woolen yarn. 3,240 
ends in warp. 10 per cent, take-up. How many yards dressed ? 

100: 90=x : 3,240 and 324,000-^90=3,600 yards of warp required dressed per yard of cloth woven. 
22-cut=300X 22=6,600 yards per lb.-5-16=412| yards per oz.; hence— 
3,600-5-412.5=8.8 oz. weight of warp. 
72X48=3,456 yards of filling required per yard. 
3,456-^-412.5=8.4 oz., weight of filling. 
Warp, 8.8 oz. 
Filling, 8.4 oz. 



Given weight / . 
squared. )' ' 

17.2 2 ; 


( Counts of yarn in / 
( given cloth. f 

22 


. 1 Required counts for 
j the new cloth. 

X 


(17.2X17.2) : 
295.84 : 


22 : 
22 : 


X 



Answer. — 17.2 oz., total weight per yard from loom. 

b. Proof of Proper Structure of Given Cloth. 

22-cut =6,600 yards per lb. and l/6,600, less 16 per cent. =68}; threads of 22-cut yarn will lie 
side by side in one inch. 
j twill =2 points of interfacings in one repeat of the weave. 

Thus: ?j|ip?=68iX4=273-s-6=45£, or practically— 



Anstoer. — 15 warp threads per inch should be used, and this is the number of ends used, since.- 



72 

(Threads in full warp.) -=- (Width of cloth.) = (Ends per inch.) 

3,240 -=- 72 = 45 

2. Required Cloth. 

b. Find Proper Texture for Warp. 



18-cut woolen yarn to be used =18x300=5,400 yards per lb., ^5,400=73.49, less 16 percent. 
(11.74)=61f threads of 18-cut woolen yarn will lie side by side in one inch. 
4-harness twill contains 2 points of intersections in one repeat. 

6 * IX4 =247-5-6=4U, or practically — 

Ansiver. — 41 threads per inch must be used. 

a. Ascertain Weight for Required Cloth. 

Using the same width in reed as in the given cloth (72 inches). 

41 X 72=2,952 eDds must be used (10 per cent, take-up). 

100:90 :: x: 2,952 and 295,200-5-90=3,280 yards warp required for one yard cloth from loom. 

18-cut yarn =5,400 yards per lb. -5-16=337| yards, per oz. 

3,280-5-337.5=9.7 oz. warp yarn required. 

44X72=3,168 yards filling required, and 3,168-5-337.5=9.4 oz., filling required. 

Warp, 9.7 oz. 

Filling, 9.4 oz. 

Answer. — 19.1 oz., total weight per yard from loom, being exactly the weight wanted. 

Memo. — In calculating weight for both fabrics we used three additional picks compared to the warp 
threads, which is done to illustrate practically the softer twist of the filling compared to the warp yarn 
(and which item has already previously been referred to). In the calculations we only used approxi- 
mately the decimal fraction of tenth, since example refers only to illustrate the procedure. In examples 
we exclude any reference to selvage. 

Example. — The following cloth we are making : Worsted Suiting. 3,840 ends in warp, 8 per cent. 
•■■qddb take-up, 60 inches width in loom, warp and filling 2/32's worsted, weight of flannel from 
mBSH loom, 14.6 oz. For weave, see Fig. 27. (No reference taken ofselvage.) 
liiSSSna Question. — Find the proper yarn to use if given weight, 14.6 oz., must be changed to 

Fig. 27. jo 3 oz (f rom loom); i. e., a flannel of 16.3 oz. is wanted (exclusive ofselvage). 
.T"tl, 16.3 2 : 14.6 2 ::16: x 

6-harness twill. * ^* 

(16.3X16.3): (14.6X14.6):: 16: x 

265.69 : 213.16 :: 16: x 
213.16 X 16=3,410.56-5-265.69=12.9 
Answer. — 1/13's or 2/26's worsted yarn is required. 

Example. — Prove previously given example for each structure; a, as to weight; b, as to the 
proper construction according to rules given. 

i. Given Cloth. 

a. Ascertain Given Weight (14.6 oz.). 

Warp. — 3,840 ends, 2/32's worsted, 8 per cent, take-up, weave 3 — § 6-harness twill. 60 inches 
width of cloth on reed. 

Filling. — 66 picks per inch, 2/32's worsted. 

3,840 ends in warp, 8 per cent, take-up, how many yards dressed ? 



73 

100:1)2 :: x :3,840 384,000-s-92=4,173ti yards (practically 4,174) of warp required dressed 
per yard of cloth woven. 

2 32's worsted=16X 560=8,900 yards per lb. -5-16=560 yards per oz. 
Hence: 4,174-5-560=7.5 oz., weight of warp. 
66X60=3,960 yards of filling required per yard. 3,960-5-560=7.1 oz., weight of filling. 
Warp, 7.5 oz. 
Filling, 7.1 " 

.1 nswer. — 14.6 oz., total weight per yard from loom. 

b. Proof for Proper Structure of Given Cloth. 



2/32's worsted =8,960 yards per lb., and 1 8,960—10 per cent. =85 threads of 2/32's worsted 

will lie side l>v side in one inch. 

.So v 6 
— - twill=2 points of interfacings in one repeat of the weave. Thus : g. g =510-5-8=64. 

Answer. — 64 threads per inch must he used, and since 3,840-5-60=64, this is the number of ends 
used per inch in given cloth, the structure of the given cloth is perfectly balanced. 

2. Required Cloth. 

h. Find the Proper Texture for Warp. 

2/26's worsted =13x560=7,280 yards per lb. 



l/7,280=85.3 less 10 percent. (8.5)=76.8 diameters of threads of 2/26's worsted will lie side by- 
side in one inch. 

3 ■„ .„.,.. m 76.8X6 

— 3 twill=2 points of interfacings in one repeat. Thus: a i o =460.8 H-8=57.6, or 

practically — 

Ansioer. — 58 threads per inch must be used. 

a. Ascertain Weight for Required Cloth. 

Using the same width in reed as in the given cloth (60 inches). 

58 X 60=3,480 ends must be used (8 per cent, take-up). 
100 : 92 : : x : 3,480. 348,000^-92=3,782 yards required for one yard cloth from loom, 
2/26's worsted=7, 280 yards per lb. -5- 16=455 yards per oz.; thus: 3,782—455=8.3 oz. warp yarn required. 

Using 61 picks we find — 
61 X 60=3,660 yards filling (2/32's worsted) wanted. 3,660-5-455=8 oz., weight of filling yarn wanted. 
Warp, 8.3 oz. 
Filling, 8.0 oz. 



Answer. — 16.3 oz., total weight of cloth (exclusive of selvage) from loom, being exactly- the 
weight wanted. 

To Find the Number of Ends per Inch in the Required Cloth. 

The two examples previously given will also assist us to illustrate the next rule; i. e., "Finding 
number of ends per inch in the required cloth." 

Rule. — The weight per yard of the required cloth is to the weight per yard of the given cloth in 
the corresponding ratio of the warp ends per inch in the given cloth to the warp ends per inch in the 
required cloth. 

Example. — Prove rule by previously given example of a fancy cassimere. 
Given Cloth. — Weight per yard = 17.2 oz. Ends per inch=45J (for 45). 



74 



Required Cloth. — Weight wanted, 19.1 oz. Find ends per inch required, or x. 

17 2 V 45 5 
19.1:17.2:: 45.5 :x. '^ ' =17.2X45.5=782. 60^-19.1=40^+, or practically— 

Answer. — 41 warp threads must be used, and this is exactly the answer previously derived in the 
same example (see page 72). 

Example. — Prove rule by previously given example of a worsted suiting. 

Given structure. — Weight per yard, 14.6 oz. Ends per inch, 64. 

Required structure. — Weight wanted, 16.3 oz. Find ends per inch required, or x. 

16.3:14.6 :: 64 :x -^-g— ==14.6X64=9,344-Al6.3==57A s * (See answer on page 73, being 57.6.) 

Answer. — 58 warp threads (practically) per inch must be used ; this being the same number as 
derived previously in the same example. (See page 73.) 

WEAVES WHICH WILL WORK WITH THE SAME TEXTURE AS THE 

? .3 4-HARNESS TWILL. 

The following few weaves (given for examples) have the same number of interlacings as the 
4-harness even-sided twill : 

Memo. — Weaves indicated by u. are uneven-sided twills. Weaves indicated 
by e. are even-sided twills. 



7 1 1 


111 
6 11 


112 
5 11 


1 1 3 
4 1 1 


114 
6 2 1 


1 1 1 
5 3 1 


1 1 1 
4 4 1 


1 1 1 
5 2 1 


2 1 1 
4 2 1 


2 1 2 
4 3 1 


2 \ 1 
3 3 1 


3 11 
4 2 1 


3 1 1 
3 2 1 


2 2 2 
3 3 2 


1 1 2 
2 2 5 


1 1 1 
2 2 4 


1 1 2 
2 2 3 


1 1 3 
2 2 3 


2 2 1 
2 2 1 


3 3 1 
2 2 1 



4-harness twills. 



5 




1 






1 




1 


4 




1 






1 




a 


3 




1 






1 




3 


4 




2 






1 




1 


3 




1 






2 




2 


3 




2 





8-harness 

twills. 



Proceeding in this manner, the student can 
readily find the different (common) twills which 
will work on the same basis of texture as the 4-har- 
ness even-sided twill. 

Amongst "derivative weaves," working on the 

same basis of texture as the ^ twill, we find — 

— j 4-harness broken twill and the following 
weaves given in my '•' Technology of TeAile Design," 
Figs. 398, 409, 411,412, 416, 417,420,421,445, 
448,449, 470 (476 h=d), 479, 482, 492, 497, 499, 
etc., etc. 



5 11 



12-harness twills. 



WEAVES WHICH WILL WORK WITH THE 



SAME TEXTURE AS THE 

4 



TWILL, 



- TWILL, Etc. 

4 



In the same manner as we previously found some of the 

different weaves to work on an equal basis with the ^ 

twill, it will be advisable for the student to use different other 
" standard foundation weaves " on the same basis. For exam- 
ple : the 3 twill, the i twill, etc. 



75 

SELECTION OF THE PROPER TEXTURE FOR FABRICS INTERLACED WITH 

SATIN WEAVES. 

As mentioned in my " Technology of Textile Design" fabrics made with satin weaves or '-'Satins" 
are characterized by a smooth face. The principles for the construction of satins are to arrange as much 
as possible distributed stitching, for the more scattered we arrange the interlacing of warp and filling the 
lesa these points of intersection will be visible in the fabric. Thus, the method of construction of this 
third class of foundation weaves is <|iiite different from the other two classes (the plain and twill weaves) ; 
hence, the setting of the warp for fabrics interlaced with satins requires a careful studying and possibly 
a slight modification towards one, two, or three threads more per inch; but such an increase is regulated 
hv the material. If we have an extra good and very smooth yarn we may do this, but if dealing with 
a rough or poorly carded yarn we must use ends per inch as found by rule. 

As previously mentioned, in cloth interlaced with satin weaves we want a smooth face ; hence, the 
warp yarn must cover the filling. Thus, as always one or the other of the threads in the repeat of the 
weave is withdrawn on every pick the remaining warp threads must cover this spot where the one warp 
thread works on the back of the cloth and the filling tries to take its place on its face ; and, as according 
to rules given, the interlacing of the filling is dealt with similar to warp threads, the remaining warp 
threads in this instance would have to be spread so as to cover the filling, which, no doubt, is more readily 
accomplished by using a heavier texture of the warp ; i. e., putting two or three more threads per inch 
than actually will lie properly side by side, less the customary deduction on account of the nap of the 
yarn. If we resort to this plan, it will be readily understood by the student that this will produce a 
closer working of the threads than they properly should ; hence, chafing or riding of threads (to a slight 
extent) will be the result. If, as previously mentioned, we are dealing with an extra good and smooth 
yarn and the warp yarn is properly sized and dressed, we may make use of those few ends, but otherwise 
in most every common fabric, threads as found by rule to lie side by side in one inch will do, since 
the nature of the weave (hence, cloth with it produced) will by itself hide the filling to a great extent by 
means of the warp being nearly all on the face, the filling forming the back and the one end warp r.s 
coming in the lower shed, having little power to pull the filling up, which for the main part forms the 
back of the structure. 

Example. — Find threads of warp to use for weaving a "Kersey," with the 7-leaf satin (see Fig. 
28), using G-run woolen yarn. Width of cloth in reed (setting) to be 84 inches (exclusive ■■■■■■ 
selvage). 6-run woolen yarn 84 ends per inch, side by side. .SI 7 588-=-9 65£, or !■"£■" 
say 66 threads per inch. 66X84=5,544. H'.lill 

Answer. — 5,544 threads texture for warp to use, but which may be increased to 5,700 Fig. 28. 
ends if dealing with a good smooth yarn. 5,700 ends in warp equals nearly 68 threads per inch. 
(68X84=5,712) which is about 2 threads per inch in excess of proper number ascertained by the reg- 
ular procedure. 

SELECTION OF THE PROPER TEXTURE FOR FABRICS INTERLACED 

WITH RIB WEAVES. 

As mentioned in my " Technology of Textile Design," fabrics interlaced with rib weaves require, 
for either one system of threads (warp or filling), a high texture. 

Rib weaves classified as " warp effects," must have a high texture for warp, and 
Rib weaves classified as " filling effects," must have a high texture for filling. 

Warp Effects. 

In the manufacture of fabrics interlaced with warp effect rib weaves, the warp forms the face 
and back of the fabric, whereas the filling rests imbedded, not visible on either side. This being the 
case there is no necessity for calculating (in the setting of the warp) for a space for the filling to inter- 
lace; thus, the texture is ascertained by the number of threads that will lie side by side per inch. 



76 

Example. — Find the warp texture for a fabric interlaced with the rib weave (warp effect) as shown 
in Fig. 29, using for warp 6-run woolen yarn. C BBBS 

6-run=9,600 yards per lb., and i/9,600, less 16 per cent.=82.3. ■"■" 



mama 
i r 



'ana* 
■ ■ 

■ ■ i 

■ ■ 

■ ■ 

1»L"!BD 
1 'J 



Answer. — 82 warp threads per inch must be used. Fig. 29. 

Example. — Find texture for a fabric interlaced with the rib weave, shown in Fig. 30, using for 
warp 2/40's worsted yarn. 

2/40's worsted=ll,200 yards per lb., and V 11,200, less 10 per cent.=95. 

Answer. — 95 warp threads per inch must be used. Fig. 30, 

Filling Effects. 

As previously mentioned, for filling effects we require a high number of picks, since the latter 
system has to form face and back of the cloth, and the warp the interior. In most instances the filling 
yarn as used for these fabrics is softer spun than the warp, for allowing a freer introducing of the 
former; thus, we may use even a few more picks per inch compared to the texture previously found for 
rib weaves warp effects. 



^.□.□.□.□□□■■.ddd... d .d. Figured Rib Weaves 

■ ■ ■ ■■■■ i ■■■ ■ ■ 

■ ■ ■ ■ ■■■ j' ■■■ ■ ■ 

■ ■ ■ ■■■ 1 ■■■ ■ ■ :■ J 

■ M^ummu j . t»M^ ■ ■ ■ 
■ 



■ SB 



■ a 



■■n i' ] *■■ ■ '■' ■ a ■ ■ 

■ i . am ■ lint ■ ■ ■ ■ 

■ ■■ I I i ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ :■■■■ 1 



If dealing with figured rib weaves, their texture for warp and filling is 
found by ascertaining the number of threads for both systems that will lie 
side by side in one inch. 



g Example. — Find texture for a cloth to be interlaced with the figured 

rib weave, shown in Fig. 31, using for warp and filling 2/36's worsted yarn. 

gg 2/36's=10,080 yards per lb., and 1 10,080, less 10 per cent.=90. 

■a 
Fig. 31. Answer. — 90 warp threads and 90 picks per inch must be used. 



■ ens ■■■■ ■■■ 

■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ 

■ ■ ■ ■ ■■■ 

■ ■ ■ ■■■■ ■■■ 

■ ■ ■ ■ ■■■ . ■■■ I 



SELECTION OF THE PROPER TEXTURE FOR FABRICS INTERLACED 

WITH CORKSCREW-WEAVES. 

On page 68 of my " Technology of Textile Design" I mentioned, amongst other points, referring 
to the method of construction of corkscrew weaves, "this sub-division of the regular 45° twills is 
derived from the latter weaves by means of double draws, which will reduce the texture of the warp 
for the face in the fabric; hence, a greater number of those threads per inch (compared to fabrics inter- 
laced with the foundation weaves) are required." 

A careful examination of the different corkscrew weaves (see Figs. 345 to 383 in " Technology 
of Textile Design") with regard to their setting in loom, will readily illustrate their near relation to 
the warp effect rib weaves as explained in the previous chapter. In both systems of weaves (speaking 
in a general way) the warp forms the face and back of the cloth and the filling rests imbedded between 
the former; the only difference between both being that the break-line, as formed by the exchanging of 
the warp threads from face to back, is in the rib-cloth in a horizontal direction compared to the running 
of the warp threads, whereas in the corkscrews this break-line is produced in a oblique direction. But 
as this is of no consequence regarding structure (in fact only in preference of the forming of a better 
shed with the corkscrew weave, since not all the threads break — exchange positions — at the same time) 
we may readily use the setting of the number of warp threads per inch in corkscrews the same as done 
in rib weaves warp effects ; i. e., use the number of warp threads that will lie side by side in one inch for 
the texture of warp and again increase this texture one, two, three, or four ends, if dealing with an 
extra good yarn. 



Pig. 83. 



77 

Example. — Find warp texture required for a fabric made with weave Fig. 32. 
Yarn to lie used is 2/40's worsted. 2/40's worsted =11,200 yards per lb., 
and 1 1 1,200, less 10 per cent. =95. 

Answer. — 95 warp threads per inch must be used, and in ease of extra good 
varn we mav increase this warp texture to 98 ends per inch. 

Example. — Find number of threads in warp if fabric in previously given 
example is made 61 inches wide in loom. 95X61=5,795. 



Answer. — 5.800 threads in warp must be used to produce a perfect cloth ; i. e., perfect fabric, and 
5,950 to 5,980 ends can be used with an extra good yarn (98X61=5,978). 

Example. — Find a, texture of warp per inch; b, threads in warp to use if 61 inches wide in loom, 
for fabric interlaced with fancy corkscrew weave Fig. 33, using 2/60's worsted 

tin- warp. : ■"■■ 5 ■ 5 ■"■■ SIS 

* ■ ■ ■ ■■ ■ ■ ■ ■ ■■ ■ ■ 



2/60's worsted =1 6,800 yards per lb., and I 16,800, less 10 per cent.=117. 



■■■■■■■■■■■a 

■ ■:■■■■■■■■■■ 



Answer. — a, 117 warp threads per inch must be used; and 117x61 
=7,137; thus b, 7,140 threads must be used in full warp. Fig 33 

Memo. — In such fine yarn, and correspondingly high texture, it will be hardly necessary to use 
those tw T o to four additional threads as made use of if dealing with a lower count of yarn. 

SELECTION OF THE PROPER TEXTURE FOR FABRICS BACKED WITH 

FILLING; i. e., CONSTRUCTED WITH TWO SYSTEMS OF 

FILLING AND ONE SYSTEM OF WARP. 

A thorough explanation of the construction of weaves for these fabrics has been given in my 
" Technology of Textile Design," on pages 105, 106, 107 and 108. Thus, we will now consider these 
points with reference to the setting of cloth in the loom, since, no doubt, the additional back 
filling will have more or less influence upon the setting of the face cloth. Weave Fig. 34 
(corresponding to weave Fig. 558 and section Fig. 557 in Technology) illustrates the com- 
mon 4-harness twill ^ for the face structure, backed with the 8-leaf satin. 

In this weave, as well as any similar combinations, the texture of the face warp can 
<m£" iiii" :: remain nearly the same as if dealing with single cloth, a deduction of 5 per cent, from the 
Fig. 34. number ends per inch found for the single cloth is all that is required to be deducted for the 
same cloth made with a backing 



■■ 









.-• 



If we exchange the 8-leaf satin, as used for backing:, with a twill, — , as shown in 

saana ° ' '-' ' 

* yg weave Fig. 35, we must deduct 10 per cent, from the warp texture, as found for the face of 
□"So the cloth, to produce the proper chances for weaving. If we back the 4-harness — s twill 
' ' with the arrangement of 2 picks face to alternate with 1 pick back, and use for the interlacing 

of the latter filling (and warp) the ' 4-harness twill, (using every alternate warp thread 

only for interlacing) see weave Fig. 36, no deduction of the warp texture compared to single cloth is 
required ; or, in other words, if using a weave 2 picks face to alternate with 1 pick back, and ! Ha H aEQga 

in which the backing is floating from ' to — — r (or a similar average), no reference must 

be taken of the backfilling in calculating the setting of the warp ; or, in other words, the 

fabric is simply to be treated as pure single cloth. The most frequently used proportions of 

backing to face are : 1 pick face to alternate with 1 pick back, and 2 picks face to alternate 

with 1 pick back. Seldom we find other arrangements, as 3 picks face to alternate with 1 

pick back; or irregular combinations, as 2 picks face 1 pick back, 1 pick face 1 pick back, =-.5 picks 






■■ ■■ 



78 

in repeat, etc. If using the arrangement " 1 pick face to alternate with 1 pick back," be careful to use 
a backing yarn not heavier in its counts than the face filling; for a backing heavier in its counts than 
the face filling will influence the closeness of the latter, and in turn produce an " open face" appear- 
ance in the fabric. 



-*aaaaaaaaa^aa 
■■ , ■■■ . ■ 
aa aaaaaaaaa 



Weave Fig. 37 shows the 



6-harness twill for the face structure, backed 



■■■ 



>■■ 



■SB 

acaaaa 
wa lin □ 

■■■"""■cii" 






■a 






Fig. 37. 



with the 12-leaf satin. Arrangement: 1 pick face to alternate with 1 pick back. 
It will readily be seen by the student that this combination of weaves (also any 
similar ones) will be very easy on the warp threads; thus, the setting of the 
latter per inch in the reed is (about) designated by the counts of yarn used 

with reference to the single cloth weave (' = twill), being the same as if dealing 

with no backing, for the most allowance we would have to make for fabrics inter- 
laced with this weave would be a deduction of 2 to 2| per cent, from the single cloth 
warp texture. 



aaaaaaaa 



Weave Fig. 38 shows the same face weave (' ^ twill), arranged with 2 picks 

face to alternate with 1 pick back. There will be no difference experienced in the 
number of threads (warp) to use per inch between this weave and the single face 
weave (i. e., the face weave if treated as single cloth) ; hence, the setting of the warp 
for both will be the same. 



■■ ■■■ 


B 


■ III ■■ 

BBB BBB 


BBB ■■ 

bbb iBi 


B 


■BB BBB 

BB 1 . 'BBS 


a 


""»■■" "■ 


BB 



aaa EanaHH 

IB III I 

UJDBBBGDn 



Fig. 38. 



r ' G aannaaaaaa aaaaaaa 

■ ■■ i. B ' ■ BBB 

b. v bbb u. ■,■■„„■„„„■ 
o b"^' ■ "bbb'^'bb 
■b"""bb»""b^^b)'"b 

"^ r ■ ")"■■■',' J pBUMGDjjl 

"■■■ i a"" b T'bsb'" 
aaaaaaaa:::::::::::::::: :: 

BBS BBB fl ■ 



3BH 

B BBB ■ ■ BB 

a_aau;:aa::::::;:a:;aaaa 
v ~b .^bbb r JjH^I 

bbb""b"" b" "iii""_ 
c:::):]c:a:::::;:::iu:::::: ::a 



B 

□aa:: 



SB 



"sisa' 



Example. — Find the proper number of warp threads to use for a worsted 
suiting, to be interlaced with the granite weave shown in Fig. 39. For warp 
yarn use 2/50's worsted. 

2/50's worsted=l 4,000 yards per lb. and t / 14 000 l ess 10 per cent.=106.5 
Points of interlacing in face weave=8 
Warp threads in repeat of weave=18 
106.5x18=19,170-^26 (8 + 18)=73.7 

— 3.7 (5 per cent.) 

70.0 
Answer. — 70 warp threads per inch of 2/50's worsted are required. 

Example. — Ascertain for the previously given fabric the proper filling 
texture, if using the same counts of yarn as used for warp, and find weight of 
cloth per yard from loom (exclusive of selvage). 

„ . , f Face filling, 74 picks per inch (2/50's worsted). 
Kequirec j Backingj ?4 „ « « ( s i ng l e 24's worsted). 

Width in loom, 60 inches (exclusive of selvage). Tak>e-up of warp during weaving, 12 per cent. 
70X60=4,200 warp threads in cloth. 100:88:: x : 4,200. 
4,200 Xl00=420,000-r-8tf =4,772 yards of warp are wanted dressed for 1 yard cloth from loom. 
14,000 yards per lb. in 2/50's worsted=875 yards per oz. 

4,772-=-875=5.45 oz., weight of warp, 

74 X 60=4,440 yards face filling wanted, 
4,440^-875=5.07 oz., face filling, 

24's worsted=l 3,440 yards per lb.=840 yards per oz. 
4,440-^840=5.28 oz., weight of backing. 



::c;a 

a 

aaa 



aaa :::::;:::;:::::::;:;:::::::: 

B B BBB BBB 

T 18 



Fig. 39. 



Warp, 5.45 oz. 

Face filling, 5.07 " 
Backing, 5.28 " 



15.80 oz. 



Answer. — Weight of cloth per yard from loom (exclusive of selvage) is 15.8 oz. 



■■ ■_ 
:x::::j:)o:] 
■■ an 

■■ ■■ 
:::: :!::::::l: 

■ ■■ ■ 
i 1 an : ■■ 

annn ixin 

KB ■■ 

■ ■ ■■ J 

Fig. 40. 



79 

Example. — Find the proper texture for warp and filling, and also ascertain the weight of flannel 
maamro per yard from loom (exclusive of selvage). Cloaking: Warn 5-run, filling 5-run, backing 
2|-run. Weave, see Fig. 40 (8 warp threads and 12 picks in repeat). Take-up of warp, 
10 per cent. Width of cloth in reed, 72 incites (exclusive of selvage). 
5-run=8,000 yards per lb. 

I 8,000, less 1(3 per cent.=75 ends of 5-run yarn will lie side by side in one inch. 
75 X 4= 300-^6=50 ends of warp must be used per inch, and 
50x72=3,600 ends must be used in full warp. 

100:90 ::x : 3,600 
.".,(100 X 100=360,000-^-90=4,000 yards of warp yarn are required per yard cloth woven. 
5-run yarn=500 yards per oz. 4,000-^500=8 oz. of warp yarn are wanted. 
52 picks (50 + 2 extra) of face filling, 
26 picks (corresponding to face picks) of back filling, 
52x72=3,744 yards of face filling are wanted. 
3,744^-500=7.5 oz., weight of face filling. 
26X72=1,872 yards of backing are required. 

l,872-=-250 (yards of 2J-run filling per oz.)=7.5 oz., weight of backing. 

Warp, 8.00 oz. 

Face filling, 7.50 " 
Backing, 7.50 " 



are wanted per inch 



23.00 oz. 
Answer. — Total weight of cloth per yard from loom (exclusive of selvage), 23 oz. 



SELECTION OF THE PROPER TEXTURE FOR FABRICS BACKED WITH 

■WARP; i. e., CONSTRUCTED WITH TWO SYSTEMS OF 

WARP AND ONE SYSTEM OF FILLING. 

To ascertain the texture of the warp in these fabrics we must first consider the counts of the yarn 
as used for the face structure, and secondly the weave. 

After ascertaining this texture (for the single cloth) we must consider the weave for the back 
warp ; i. e., the stitching of the same to the face cloth. If dealing with a weave of short repeat for 

the back warp (for example a ^ twill) we must allow a correspondingly heavy deduction from the 

threads as ascertained for the face cloth (about 20 per cent, for the j twill) ; whereas, if dealing 

with a far-floating weave for the back (for example the 8-leaf satin) we will have to deduct less (about 
10 per cent, for the 8-leaf satin) from the previously ascertained texture of the face cloth. Since the 
8-leaf satin is about the most far-floating weave, as used for the backing, thus, 10 per cent, will be 

about the lowest deduction, and as the j twill is the most frequently interlacing weave, in use in 

the manufacture of these fabrics, thus, 20 per cent, deduction from the respectively found texture of 
the face cloth is the maximum deduction. To illustrate the subject more clearly to the student we will 
give both weaves as previously referred to with a practical example. 

Example. — Find warp texture for the following fabric : Fancy worsted trousering. 
«oDnn»a«n Weave, see Fig. 41. Face warp, 2/36's worsted. Back warp, single 20's worsted. 

■::■ 

.:'"■ .:: 2/36's worsted =90 threads (side by side per inch). 

Fig- 41. Face weave ^ ^will =4 threads in repeat and 2 points of interlacing. 

90X4=360-^6=60 threads, proper warp texture for the single structure. 

60 
— 12 (20 per cent, deduction caused by the back warp (- -) stitching in the face structure). 



48 



80 

Face warp per inch, 48 threads 2/36's worsted. 
Back warp " 48 " single 20's worsted. 

96 
Answer. — 96 warp threads must be used per inch. 

Picks per inch must be 52 (4 extra over the texture of the face warp). Use 2/36's filling and 
find weight of cloth per yard from loom (exclusive of selvage), allowing 10 per cent, take-up for face 
warp, and 12 per cent, for back warp, using 62 inches as the width of cloth in loom. 
48X62=2,976 ends of face warp, and 
2,976 " " back warp. 



5,952, total number of ends in the entire warp. 
100 : 90 : : x : 2,976 297,600-=-90=3,306| yards or face warp are wanted per yard of cloth woven. 
2/36's worsted=10,080yardsperlb.-7-16=630yardsperoz. 3,306.66-r-630=5.25oz.,weightoffacewarp. 
100:88 :: x:2,976 297,600-7-88=3,381 A yardsof back warp yarn are wanted per yard of cloth woven. 
1/20's worsted =11, 200 yards. 11,200 yards per lb. -7-16=700 yards per oz. 



3,381.81-7-700=4.83 oz., weight of the back warp. 
52 picks per inch X 62=3,224 yards of filling wanted. 
3,224h-630=5. 12 oz., weight of filling per yard of cloth woven. 



Warp,{J ac ?' 5 - 25oz - 
1 ' 1 Back, 4.83 " 

Filling, 5.12 " 



15.20 oz. 



Answer. — 15.2 oz. is the weight of the cloth per yard (from loom exclusive of selvage). 
To illustrate the difference regarding the weave as selected for interlacing the back warp, we will 
tajonacmanarnmcmi next calculate the previously given example with the same counts of yarn but with 

■ " i : ■ S™ '■□ the weave as given in Fig. 42. 

■ ■ '"' ! ! ■ '5™, I This weave contains the same face weave (- ^ twill) as previously used, the 

1 ™ only difference being the interlacing of the back warp, for which we use the 8-leaf 

satin in place of the g twill as used in the former example. 

Face warp and filling, 2/36's worsted. Back warp, single 20's worsted. 

2/36's worsted=90 threads will lie side by side per inch. 

Face weave r, twill. 90x4=36'J-t-6=60 threads is the proper texture for face structure, and 

60 
— 6 (10 per cent, deduction by means of the back warp stitching with the 8-leaf satin in the face structure)- 

54 Warp threads per inch 54 threads 2/36's worsted, for face. 

54 " 1/20's " « back. 

108 Thus : 108 warp threads per inch must be used. 

Picks per inch, 58 (the same 4 extra pick as in previous given example). 

Filling, 2/36's worsted. Take-up of face warp 10 per cent. Take-up of back warp 8 per cent. 
62J inches for width of cloth in loom, since the 8-leaf satin will permit a readier milling (during 
the process of scouring) than the - — g twill. 

Question : — Find weight of cloth per yard and compare it with previously given example. 
54X62.5=3,375 threads each of face and back warp are wanted. 
100:90:: x : 3,375. 337,500-7-90=3,750 yards of face warp are wanted per yard of cloth woven. 

2/36's worsted=630 yards per oz. 3,750-7-630=5.95 oz., weight of face warp. 
100:92 :: x : 3,375. 337,500-7-92=3,668 J yards of back warp are wanted per yard of cloth woven. 
1/20's worsted=700 yards per oz. 

3,668. 5-7-700=5.24 oz., weight of back warp per yard of cloth woven. 

58 picks per inch X 62.5 inches width of cloth in reed=3,625 yards of filling wanted, and 
3,625-^-630=5.75 oz., weight of filling per yard of cloth woven. 



81 

Face warp, 5.95 oz. 

Buck warp, 5.24 " 

Filling, 5.75 " 



16.94 oz. 
Thus : 16.94 oz. (or practically 17 oz.) is the weight of cloth per yard from loom. 
A comparison between both cloths results as follows : 

(Using weave Fig. 41.) (Using weave Fig. 42.) (Difference.) 

Face warp, 5.25 oz. 5.95 oz. 0.70 oz. 

Back warp, 4.83 " 5.24 " 0.41 " 

Filling, 5.12 " 5.75 " 0.63 " 



Weight per yard, 15.20 oz. 16.94 oz. 1.74 oz. 

Or, the difference between using the 8-leaf satin or ^ twill for the weave for the back warp is 1 .74 oz. 

Given two examples will readily illustrate to the student that he must select the weave for the 
backing with the same care as the face weave, for, as shown in examples given, we produced a differ- 
ence of If oz. simply by changing the weave for the back warp, using the same counts of yarn for 
warp and filling, leaving the face weave undisturbed. 

The most often used proportion of the arrangement between face and back warp is the one 
previously explained ; i. e., 1 end face to alternate with 1 end back, but sometimes we also use — 

2 ends face warp 1 end face warp. 
1 end back warp or 1 end back warp. 

— 2 ends face warp. 

3 ends in repeat. 1 end back warp. 

5 ends in repeat, or any similar arrangement. 

If using the arrangement " 1 end face warp to alternate with 1 end back warp," never use a 
heavier size of warp yarn for the back warp than for the face warp. (See previously given example 
and you find face yarn2/36's worsted, (= single 18's) and for back warp, single 20's worsted yarn used.) 

If using " 2 ends face warp to alternate with 1 end back warp " a proportional heavier yarn 
can be used for the back warp. (See the previous example where 2 ends face warp, 2/36's worsted, 
alternate with one end back warp, 3i-run woolen yarn). 

Great care must be exercised in selecting the stock for the face warp and back warp for such fabrics 
as require any fulling during the finishing process. The material in the back warp, which can be of 
a cheaper grade, must have about, or as near as possible, the same tendency for fulling as the " stock " 
which is used in the face warp. The student will also readily see that there will be a smaller deduction (after 
finding the face texture) necessary if using the arrangement of 2 ends face to alternate with 1 end back than 
if using the simple alternate exchanging of face and back warp explained at the beginning of the chapter. 

For example, take weave Fig. 43, illustrating an 8-harness Granite weave, backed 2 ends face warp, 

. m _ 1 end back warp. The back warp interlaces 1 pick up and 7 picks down 

" ■■ ■::! "" ■■ SlmGj" — 8 picks in the repeat. Examining rules as given for the arrangement 1 



■ '.:■ 



■■ 



8 .' and 1, we find a call for a deduction for the face texture of 10 per cent, (see 

Kfmm^L, — .■_■ Mm^^aam^m weave jrjg ±2), but which, if using the present arrangement, must be reduced 

to 5 per cent. ; this being one-half less reduction to make for 2 face 1 back 

compared to 1 face 1 back. 

Weave Fig. 44 illustrates the 5 twill, backed 2 ends face warp and 1 end back warp. The 

back warp interlaces 1 pick up, 3 picks down=4 picks in the repeat. Examining rules as 

given for the arrangement of 1 and 1, we find a call for a deduction from the face texture of ■!"" ! 

lioocad 
20 per cent, (see weave Fig 41), but which, if using arrangement to suit weave Fig. 44, J_ * 

must be reduced one-half; i. e. t deduct only 10 per cent. 



Example. — Find warp threads per inch for the following cloth : Worsted suiting, Face warp, 
2/36's worsted yarn. Back warp, 3i-run woolen yarn. Use a, weave shown in Fig. 43 ; 6, weave 
given in Fig. 44. 

2/36's worsted=irV inch diameter. Face weave, < . „.,'.' 

I 4 points of interlacing. 

60 

90X8 =60 threadSj proper warp texture f or f aC e. — 3 (5 per cent.) 

12 ' 

57 

Answer. — If using weave Fig. 43, use 57 warp threads per inch for face. 

Thus : 58 ends 2/36's worsted for face, and 

-f 29 " 3J-run woolen yarn for back, giving us 

87 ends of warp to be used per inch. 

2/36's worsted=s'5 inch diameter. Face weave, < . . " ' 

I 2 points of interlacing. 

60 
— ^— =60 threads, proper warp texture for face. ^ " ' 

54 
Answer. — If using weave Fig. 44, use 54 warp threads per inch for face. 
Thus : 54 ends 2/36's worsted for face, 

-J- 27 " 3J-run woolen yarn for back, gives us 

81 ends of warp as total number of ends to be used per inch. 

SELECTION OF PROPER TEXTURE FOR FABRICS CONSTRUCTED ON THE 

DOUBLE CLOTH SYSTEMS; i.e., CONSTRUCTED WITH TWO SYSTEMS 

OF WARP AND TWO SYSTEMS OF FILLING. 

Under double cloth we comprehend the combining of two single cloths into one fabric. Each 
one of these single cloths is constructed with its own system of warp and filling, while the combination 
of both fabrics is effected by interlacing some of the warp threads of the one cloth at certain intervals 
into the other cloth ; hence, in ascertaining the warp texture of these fabrics we have to deal with a 
back warp and back filling, both exercising their influence upon the texture of the fabric at the same time. 

As mentioned and explained in my "Technology of Textile Design," double cloth may be con- 
structed with : 

1 end face to alternate with 1 end back, in warp and filling. 

2 ends face to alternate with 1 end back, in warp and filling. 

2 ends face to alternate with 2 ends back, in warp and filling. 

3 ends face to alternate with 1 end back, in warp and filling, etc. 

The two first mentioned arrangements are those most often used ; hence, we will use the same for 
illustrating the selection of the proper warp texture for the present system of fabrics. 

i End Face to Alternate with i End Back in Warp and Filling. 

For face warp use 4-run woolen yarn. For back warp use 4J-run woolen yarn. 

"Dp qan^n^n^nnnn 

Question. — Find texture for warp yarn: a, if using weave Fig. 5 s-a "*" □ S'Sn 
g d ;□ ^ 45 ; b, if using weave Fig. 46. f : ii*S " L: . £' ip 'l 

" wmU-S First we have to ascertain the warn texture for the face cloth, g g a <d g 5 !" anan 

:: :: am l ' ■ ■"■ - : ' «s 

■■MDnaan dealing with the same as with pure single cloth. P. :: ii*ii:i n " ■ ■ ! 

tlG. 45. Tji £■ r .1 • .1 2 iv. *. mi j xv. ■ bj ■«■ i n 

iace weave for both weaves is the r 4-harness twill, and the .ggSR^D-'S dr "M 

yarn to use is 4-run woolen yarn. Fig. 46. 



83 



4-run==6,400 yards per lb. 
•M00=80 

—12.8 (16 per cent.) 



67.2 



twill = 



f repeat of weave, 4 threads, 

\ points of interlacing in one repeat, 2. 



67.2X4 , 
6 



=268.8-^-6=44.8 threads (or practically 45) required to be used if dealing with a single cloth. 



The next to be taken into consideration is the stitching of both cloths. In both weaves the bach 

warp interlaces into the face cloth. In weave Fig. 45, we find the ! twill used for stitching, the 

proper allowance for the same is a deduction of 24 per cent, from the face structure; hence, in 
example : 45 threads, proper warp texture for face cloth, treated as single cloth. 
— 11 " (24 per cent, deducted for I stitching). 

34 threads per inch must be used for each system if using weave given in Fig. 45. 
In weave Fig. 46, we find the 8-leaf satin used for stitching the same face cloth as previously 
used, the proper allowance for the same is a deduction of 16 per cent, from the face structure; 
In example given, we find — 

45 threads, proper warp texture for face cloth, treated as single cloth. 
— 7 threads (16 per cent, deducted for the I stitching). 

38 warp threads per inch must be used for each system if using weave given in Fig. 46. 
Answer. — Double cloth fabrics given in question require the following warp texture : 
a. If using weave Fig. 45, we must use — b. If using weave Fig. 46, we must use — 

34 warp threads 4 -run woolen yarn for face, 38 warp threads 4 -run woolen yarn for face, 

-f 34 warp threads 4 J-run woolen yarn for back. -f38 warp threads 4|-run woolen yarn for back; 



or 68 warp threads per inch. 



or 76 warp threads per inch. 



«oa zaan 
macamm 

■■ 
u:: :;c: 

1BBGDDD 

Fig. 47. 



2 Ends Face to Alternate with i End Back in Warp and Filling. 

For face warp use 4-run woolen yarn (same counts as used in previously given example). 
For back warp use 2J-run woolen yarn. 

Question. — Find texture for warp yarn : a, if using weave Fig. 47 ; b, if using weave Fig. 48 
The face weave in both weaves is the same as given in previous weaves, Figs. 45 and 

46, or the 5 twill, the counts of yarn being also the same ; thus, we can use texture for 

face cloth required from previous example, being 45 threads per inch in loom. 

In weave Fig. 47, we used the plain weave for stitching, the proper allowance for the 
same is a deduction of 8 per cent, from the face structure ; hence, 

45 threads, proper warp texture for face cloth (single cloth), 
— 3 " 8 per cent. (3.6 actual) deducted for the stitching \ _. 

42 threads per inch to be used for the face system if using weave given in Fig. 47. 
In weave Fig. 48, we find the 8-leaf satin used for stitching the same face cloth as previously 
used. The manner in which the stitching is done in this example will be of very little, if any, conse- 
quence to the face cloth ; hence, the full number of ends (or as near as posible) as ascertained for the 
face cloth, treated as if single cloth, must be used. In the present example this would be 44 or 45 
threads per inch to be used for face system if using weave shown in Fig. 48. 

Answer. — Double cloth fabrics given in question require the following warp texture : a. If using 
weave Fig. 47, we must use — 42 warp threads 4-run woolen yarn for face. 

— 1-21 warp threads 2J-run woolen yarn for back; or 



63 warp threads per inch. 



84 

b. If using weave Fig. 48, we must use— TEggSSgSSMSHSBfflFa 



n ; .i 



44 warp threads 4-ruu woolen yarn for face. □ " -nu "5 □miSS 

-f- 22 warp threads 2J-run woolen yarn for back ; or 



■□■__- 

■ ■■ «a . ■■ 

□ lacnaa □□'•:ig cQriaa 
■•:•■ ■ ■ ■ ■ 



a 



■ ■ : 



□□I in 



bob "a o" "■' ■" "a a j 
■ nn ■■ ^ n ii ; m ■■ m ;. ■ 

"■ a 

B . ;, 

. ._QUDC..._ 
IBB. BvB B B B B 



66 warp threads per inch must be used. 

Example. — Ascertain texture of warp required for a worsted suiting, to 

be made with 2/40's worsted for face warp, and 2/28's cotton for back warp. 

Arrangement of warp and filling to be 2 ends face to alternate with 1 end Q " '□□, "andd "a annan □ 

, ° , . „, ,° „ . . „ „... xmnmjaomamjjsjKMaoamimDcn 

back. Weave to be used, h ig. 48. jNext, ascertain the proper counts of filling * s 

and the number of picks per inch, take-up of warp, width of cloth in reed, and 

ascertain total amount of each kind of material required per yard from loom (exclusive of selvage). 

2/40's worsted=l 1,200 yards per lb. 1/11,200, less 10 per cent.=95 threads will lie side by 
side in one inch. 

Face weave (in Fig. 48) is the twill=4 threads in one repeat, with 2 points of interfacings; 

95 X4 

hence, — =380h-6=63J, warp texture to be used for the face cloth, the same being treated as if 

6 

single cloth. 

In weave Fig. 48, the arrangement between face and back is 2 : 1 ; the weave used for the back is the 

8-leaf satin, and, as we mentioned when laying down rules and examples, for setting double cloth fabrics 

in the loom, that the = requires no deduction on account of the stitching of the back warp in the 

face cloth, texture to use in this example must be 64 face warp threads (2/40's worsted), and 

+ 32 back warp threads (2/28's cotton); hence, 

96 warp threads per inch must be used. 
Take-up of warp during weaving 12 per cent, for face and 10 per cent for back. The width of 
cloth to use in reed will be 62 inches. 

For face filling use the same counts as for face warp, and for back filling use 3-run woolen yarn. 
Picks, 66 face. 
+33 back. 

99, total picks to be used per inch. 
64X62=3,968 threads in face warp — 12 per cent, take-up. Thus: 
3,968X100=396,800-^88=4,509 yards of face warp yarn are necessary for 1 yard cloth woven 
2/40's worsted=l 1,200 yards per lb. -=-16=700 yards per oz. 
4,509-^700=6.44 oz., weight of face warp. 
32X62=1,984 threads in back warp — 10 per cent, take-up. Thus : 
198,400-^90=2,204 yards of back warp yarn necessary for 1 yard cloth woven. 
2/28's cotton=ll,760 yards per lb.-nl6=735 yards per oz. 
2,204^-735=3 oz., weight of back warp. 
66X62=4,092 yards of face filling are wanted. 
4,092-7-700=5.85 oz., weight of face filling. 33X62=2,046 yards of back filling are wanted. 
3-run woolen yarn=300 yards per oz. 2,046-^300=6.82 oz., weight of back filling. 
Hence : 6.44 oz., weight of face warp (2/40's worsted). 
3.00 " " " back " (2/28's cotton). 
5.85 " " " face filling (2/40's worsted). 
6.82 " " " back " (3-run wool). 

22.11 oz. 
Answer. — Fabric given in example will weigh 22.11 oz. per yard from loom. 



ANALYSIS. 



How to Ascertain the Raw Materials Used in the Construction 

of Textile Fabrics. 



In many instances an examination of the threads (liberated during picking-out) with the 
naked eye, will be sufficient to distinguish the material used in the construction of the fabric, 
yet sometimes it is found necessary to use either the microscope, or a chemical test for their 
detection. 

As a means for merely distinguishing between the fibres the simplest and most generally 
applicable test is to make a microscopical examination of the fabric ; and for this reason it is 
necessary for the analyst to be acquainted with the appearance of the individual fibres. By 
means of the microscope the fibre used in the construction of a fabric is at once ascertained on 
account of the different surface structures of the various fibres used in the manufacture of 
textiles. This characteristic surface structure cannot be distinguished with the naked eye ; a 
common magnifying glass will not do either, but an enlargement of about 200 times will in 
most instances suffice. In order to prepare a fabric for examination with the microscope 
liberate (pick out), the threads forming the fabric ; next untwist a few threads so as to liberate 
the individual fibres composing the same.- Place these fibres upon a slide of the microscope, 
carefully wet them with a drop of distilled or rain water, and cover them with a cover glass ; 
or smear the surface of a slide with glycerine or gum water, upon which the fibres, adhering 
slightly, may readily be arranged for examination. 

MICROSCOPICAL APPEARANCE OF FIBRES. 

Cotton. 

Examining cotton fibres under the microscope shows them to be spirally twisted 
bands, containing thickened borders and irregular markings on the surface. The fibre is as a 
rule thicker at the edges than in the centre, and has, therefore, a grooved or channeled 
appearance. The spiral character is much more highly developed in some varieties than in 
others. 

Care must be taken not to mistake wild silk for cotton, since wild silk frequently has a 
similar spiral band like appearance. If any time in doubt remember 
that these two kinds of fibres can readily be distinguished by other tests. 
The accompanying illustration, Fig. 49, shows cotton fibres magni- 
fied. 

In fully ripe cotton the twisted form is regular and uniform, com- 
pared to unripe, half ripe or structureless cotton, which are now and 

then found amongst a lot of cotton, 
yarns or fabrics. 

For illustrating this subject the 
accompanying illustration, Fig. 50, 
is given. A represents an unripe 
cotton fibre ; B, a half ripe fibre, 
having a thin cell wall ; and C rep- A. B. C. 

Fig. 49. resents the ripe fibre having a full Fig. 50. 

twist and a properly defined cell-wall. Fig. 51 shows a structureless fibre as found occa- 
sionally. Half ripe, unripe, and structureless fibres, if found in a lot of cotton, yarn, or 

(85) 





86 



fabric, will greatly depreciate its value on account of their poor dyeing and spinning qualities, 
producing poor yarns and fabrics. 

Silk. 

In its natural state silk is a double fibre (see the accompanying illustration, Fig. 52) 
being two threads which are glued together. In the preparatory process of scouring 
or boiling off these two threads are separated and when examined by the microscope 
appear as structureless, transparent, cylindrical little glass rods, without whatever 



1 

■'.< 






Fig. 51. 



Fig. 52. 




a spiral character, some rather straight and of uniform thickness whereas others are slightly 
bent and irregular as to their diameter. Specimens of silk fibres as appearing under the 

microscope are given in the accompanying 

illustration, Fig. 53. 

Wild Silk. — The most important of these 
is Tussah. Its natural color is a silver drab, 
which requires bleaching of the fibres for 
bright colors. The accompanying illustration, 
Fig. 54, shows its microscopic appearance. 




Fig. 54. 
illustration, Fig. 




Weighted Silk is readily distinguished by 

means of the microscope, the accompanying 

55, representing weighted silk waste as 

appearing when viewed with the 

microscope. 



Wool 



is readily distinguished from other 
fibres by means of the micro- 
scope, being built up of an im- 
mense number of epithelial cells, 
scales or serrations as shown 
in the accompanying illustration 
Fig. 56, representing a typical 
wool fibre viewed under the mi- Fig. 56. 

croscope. The amount of scales 
found per square inch varies with reference to quality— the finer grades having more, 
and the coarser less. If these scales can not be readily seen treat the fibres in question 
with ammoniac copper, and the scales will become distinctly visible to the eye during 
the swelling up of the fibres. Another prominent feature characteristic to wool is its 




Fig. 55. 



87 



wave of the crimp s which again varies with reference 

to the different grades of wool found in the market. The more scales per 
inch, and the more wavy in construction the fibre, the more its felting 
capacity. 

Untrue Fibres (caused either by neglected or sick sheep,) now and then 
found in wool are readily ascertained by means of the microscope as seen by 
the accompanying illustration, Fig. 57, representing two such fibres as termed 
untrue, and which readily show that where these abnormal forms occur, 
there are changes in the form and size of the epithelial scales of the outer 
layer as well as in the diameter of the fibre, consequently the internal 
structure of the fibre must be equally affected, thus reducing the strength and 
elasticity of such fibres, and consequently decreasing the value and strength 
of such lots of wool, as well as fabrics, in which these fibres are more or less 
frequently found. 



Kemp or Kempy Wool Fibres are another kind of imperfect fibres found 
in wool. Kemp fibre is a hair of dead silvery white, thicker and shorter than 
the regular wool. They do not seem to differ in their chemical composition 
from the good or true wool fibres, but they present such different mechanical 
arrangement, and possess no absorbent power, thus resisting either entirely 
or partly, the entrance of dye-stuffs, and in the latter case even producing a 
different shade from the good fibres of the same lot, hence they will be 
readily detected in lots of wool, yarns, or fabrics. The accompanying Figs. 
58 and 59, are given to illustrate the various degrees of these kempy fibres. 
Fig. 58, A, is a fibre where the kempy structure continues throughout the 
entire fibre which looks like a glass rod, yet has short and faint transverse lines Fig. 57. 
which indicate the margins of the scales. When the change is a complete 
one, even the application of caustic alkali fails to bring out the lamination of the scales with 

any degree of distinctness and they seem to be 
completely attached to the body of the fibre up 
to the top of the scale. In some instances even 
the margins of the scales are quite obliterated, 
and the entire surface of the fibre has a silvery 
appearance resembling frosted silver. In Fig. 
.58, B, a fibre is shown where the change from 
true wool to kemp is only partial. The lower 
part of the illustration shows wool structure 
(the scales being distinctly visible,) whereas the 
upper portion of the fibre shows the kemp struct- 
ure (having the scales closely attached to the 
surface, giving the fibre the usual ivory-like 
appearance). Both illustrations, Figs. 58, A, and 
B, are representations of fibres seen by reflected 
light. In Figs. 59, A, and B, illustrations 
are given of kemps seen by transmitted light. 
In Fig. 59, A, a kempy fibre is seen with 
transmitted light and where we see a gradual Fig. 59. 

passage of the kemp into wool. In this case 




A?< 



JC ■: 



'>'■'■£ 



i 



88 

with transmitted light the kempy part retains almost the same transparency as the wool, but 
exhibits none of the interior arrangement of cells. Frequently fibres are noticed which have 
a tendency to kemp and which possess an unusual distinctness in medullary cells. Indeed, it 
frequently happens that the kempy structure tails off in the same fibre, not so much as we 
should have supposed so much on the outer surface, but down the interior of the fibre, as 
though the change commenced in the central cells and was gradually extended to the outer 
surface as the fibre grew. At the extremity, where the kempy structure first appears, the 
central cells are often not contiguous, as though the change commenced in a few cells first 
and then became more numerous both in the longitudinal as well as a diametrical direction. 
These kempy fibres often have a considerable degree of transparency when viewed with 
transmitted light, and in this respect they vary very much, but they are very seldom as 
transparent as the adjacent wool fibres. 

Sometimes, however, they are very opaque, as will be seen in the fibre shown in Fig. 59, B, 
where the light seems hardly to penetrate the centre of the fibre although it is refracted at 
the thinner edges, while the true wool, both above and below, is quite transparent to the 
same light. In this case, the same fibre, when viewed with reflected instead of transmitted 
light, exhibited no more signs of a dark color in the kempy than the true wool part, so that 
the want of transparency was not due to coloring matter. 

Kempy fibres are not always white, they are frequently found in coarse, dark colored, 
foreign wools, and even in colored fibres of more cultivated sheep. 

Shoddy are wool fibres re-manufactured out of soft woolen rags which have yet felting 
properties. Shoddy consists of long fibres of various diameter ; fibres are now and then found 
spoiled by scales being gone or the ends broken. If examining the shoddy-wool more closely 
its color will betray the inferior article compared to wool. The rags had previously to the 
redyeing. different colors and which will influence the second color accordingly. Of the 




Fig. 60. 



Fig. 61. 



Fig. 62. 



accompanying illustrations Fig. 60, shows Cheviot shoddy, Fig. 61, Thibet shoddy as visible 
under the microscope when magnified. 



Mungo is the name for wool fibres re-manufacture out of hard woolen rags, i. e., a cheaper 
grade of shoddy, made out of rags from fulled cloth. During the process of re-manufacturing 
said rags into wool by means of picking, carding or garnetting a great many fibres get hurt, 
broken. Besides, on account of the rags coming from fulled cloth, this mungo wooi has no 
more fulling properties left. The point regarding color previously mentioned at shoddy wool 
will also distinguish mungo wool from wool. Frequently cotton fibres will be found amongst 



said Mungo, in some cases also silk fibres, 
when seen under the microscope. 



89 
Fig. 62, gives us a typical illustration of Mungo 



Wool Extract also called Extract is such artificial wool produced from mixed rags from 
which the vegetable fibres were extracted by means of carbonizing. An examination of a 
sample of extract by means of the microscope will show traces of the process of carbonizing, 
by means of the carbonized vegetable refuse found. 

All three divisions of artificial wool are by some manufacturers simply collectively graded 
as shoddy, and in this manner will mostly be taken into consideration when dissecting woven 
or knitted fabrics with reference to materials used in their construction. 



Foreign Wools. 

Amongst these we find Mohair, Cashmere, Alpaca, Vicugna and Llama wool. 

Mohair is obtained from the Angora goat. The epidermal scales are extremely delicate 

and can only be 
noticed by giving 
the greatest of care 
to the experiment. 
The fibre gets 
smaller in diameter 
towards the top end, 
although not form- 
ing a point, and is 
of bright metallic 
lustre. Character- 
istic to it are the FlG - 6 4- 




mm 





Fig. 63. 
fine spots found all over the surface as shown in the accompanying specimen, Fig. 63 



Cashmere is the product of the Cashmere goat. The fur of this animal is of two sorts, 
viz., a soft wooley under coat of grayish hair, and a covering of long silken hair, that seems to 

defend the interior coat 

from the effects of winter. 
The under coat, i. e., 

the fine fibres, are read- 
ily distinguished b y 

means of the structure 

of their epidermal scales, 

besides there is no cen- 
tral or medullary portion 

found. Fig. 64, gives us 

a specimen of these fibres. 

They are used only in the 

manufacture of the finest 

textiles on account of their 
high value. 

The outer coat, which is of a coarser nature, is used in the manufacture of cheaper yarns, 
and shows under the microscope fibres containing the central or medullary portion as seen 
by the accompanying illustration Fig. 65. 




Fig. 65. 




go 



Alpaca Wool possesses less lustre than Mohair and only shows its fine scales by strong 
magnifying. In white fibres, grayish colored medullary cells are seen. Fig. 66, gives us a 
specimen of this fibre. 

Vicugna 'Wool looks at a first glance like alpaca wool ; it is a delicate soft structure. 
The scales are fine, closely resembling those of wool. 
The medullary cells are visible. Fig. 67 is a specimen 

of this fibre. 



Llama Wool is 

coarser in structure 
compared to vicugna 
wool and of less value, 
being only used in the 
manufacture of cheap 
yarns. 




Fig. 67. 




Fig. 68. 



Camel's Hair is fre- 
quently used in the manufacture of lower grades of yarns 
for backing purposes. The accompanying illustration, Fig. 68, shows camel's hair fibres 
magnified. 

Sometimes we find what 
is claimed to be finer grades 
of Camel's hair in the mar- 
ket ; this material, how- 
ever, refers to fibres of the 
outer cover of the Angora, 
the fur of the vicugna 
and alpaca ; whereas the 
fur of the llama joins more 
toward the camel's hair. 
Now and then the case may 
come up where, in low back- 
ing yarns, 

Fig. 70. 

Cow's Hair is used. For this purpose we give in the accompanying illustration, Fig. 69, 
specimens of this fibre, which in their natural state are of a white, red or black color, and 
possess slight lustres. They clearly show their central or medullary portion. P, indicates the 
point of a hair. 

The fibres mentioned thus far will cover all materials a manufacturer will come in dis- 
pute with. However, in order to make this paper as complete as possible, we thus reproduce 
microscopical views of 

Flax Fibre, in Fig. 70, of 

Hemp Fibre, in Fig. 71, of 

Jute Fibre, in Fig. 72, of 

China Grass, in Fig. 73 ; besides a representation of these fibres we also show their sections. 





9i 

The microscopical examination of fibres, yarns and fabrics is in the absence of experience, 
sometimes misleading, hence it is well in all doubtful cases to apply some corroborative test 




Fig. 71. Fig. 72. Fig. 73. 

of a more definite character. They are supplied by making use of certain chemical reactions 
of the fibres. 

In chemical constitution, cotton is the simplest, and wool the most complex of the textile 
fibres. 

Cotton consists of but three elements, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen, in the proportion 
represented by the formula C 6 H 10 O 5 . In the 

Silk substance another element, nitrogen, is present, and the molecule is at the same 
time much more complex, as is shown by the formula for fibroin, C 10 H2sN 5 O 6 . 

Wool contains still another constituent, sulphur, and the simplest formula which will 
conform to the percentage composition contains 39 atoms of carbon. 

TESTS FOR ASCERTAINING THE RAW MATERIALS USED IN THE CON- 
STRUCTION OF YARNS OR FABRICS. 

Cotton, Linen, Jute, China Grass, Silk and Wool. 

1. By burning the threads, given for testing, in a flame the cotton (or any vegetable) 
fibre will change in carbonic acid and water, and this without smell, while those of animal 
origin (wool and silk) change in combinations containing nitrogen, which element readily 
makes itself known by its disagreeable odor, similar to burnt feathers. 

2. Another point which it is well to note, is the rapidity (flash like) with which cotton 
yarn burns compared to the poor burning of a thread having animal substances for its basis. 
Such a thread will shrivel up, forming a bead of porous carbon at the end submitted to the 
flame. 

In some instances a more exact analysis may be required ; if so proceed after one or the 
other of the following formulas : 

3. Boil the sample to be tested in a concentrated solution of caustic soda or potash, and 
the wool or silk fibre will rapidly dissolve, producing a soapy liquid. The cotton or other 
vegetable fibre therein will remain undisturbed, even though boiling in weak caustic alkalies 
for several hours, care being taken to keep the samples below the surface of the solution 



% 93 

during the operation, since if exposed to the air, the cotton fibre becomes rotten, especially 
when the exposed portions are at the same time also brought under the influence of steam. 
(Any cotton fibres remaining from testing, if colored, may be bleached in chlorine water, and 
afterwards dissolved with cupro-ammonia. ) 

4. To determine whether woolen cloth contains flax or cotton, immerse the sample in a 
bath containing a solution of concentrated sulphide of sodium. This has the effect of dis- 
solving the wool, and the sample can then be entirely freed from it by merely washing in hot 
water ; the residuum will be cotton or linen fibre. 

5. To determine whether a woolen or a linen fabric contains cotton, place the 
sample of the fabric to be tested into a mixture of two parts sulphuric acid, and one part salt- 
peter for eight or ten minutes. After removing it, wash thoroughly and dry, then immerse it 
in a bath of ether containing alcohol, which has the effect of dissolving the cotton (if there is 
any present), while the woolen or linen fibres remain uninjured. 

6. Schweitzer's reagent (ammoniacal solution of oxide of copper) dissolves cotton and 
silk but not wool. Cellulose is reprecipitated by gum, sugar or acids, but the silk substances 
by acids alone. 

7. Concentrated zinc chloride, 138 Tw. (Sp. Gr. 1.69) made neutral or basic by boiling 
with excess of zinc oxide, dissolves silk slowly if cold, but very rapidly if heated, to a thick, 
gummy liquid. This reagent may serve to separate or distinguish silk from wool and cotton, 
since these latter fibres are not affected by it. If water be added to the zinc chloride solution 
of silk, the latter is thrown down as a floccu-precipitate. Dried at 230 to 235 F., the pre- 
cipitate acquires a vitreous aspect, and is no longer soluble in ammonia. 

8. A solution of cotton in concentrated sulphuric acid gives a purple coloration with an 
alcoholic solution of alpha naphthol. This reaction really indicates the presence of sugar, 
and is therefore not given by silk or wool. 

9. Millon's reagent (mercurous-mercuric nitrate) gives a red color with silk or wool but 
not with cotton. 

10. Wool (also hair and fur) is blackened by heating with a dilute solution of plumbite 
of soda, which is prepared by dissolving litharge in caustic soda. Silk and cotton, not con- 
taining sulphur, are unaffected in color. 

11. To distinguish wool and silk fibres from cotton and flax, treat a sample of the material 
with picric acid, which will have the effect of dyeing the former almost a fast yellow, while 
the latter will remain unaltered in color. 

12. An acid solution of indigo extract dyes wool and silk, but not cotton. 

13. To decide whether a linen fabric contains cotton, immerse a sample of the fabric in a 
light alcoholic solution of aniline red for a short time, after which wash thoroughly, and then 
soak it in caustic ammonia for two hours. The treatment will dye the linen fibres a rose red, 
while the cotton fibres will show no trace of color. 

14. In linen and cotton mixed fabric, a strong potash solution will only impart a very 
slight yellowish tinge to the cotton fibre, while the other will be dyed a deep yellow. A 
mixed cloth, after being removed from this solution, would present a striped or spotted 
appearance. 

15. Another easy method to distinguish between linen and cotton is to soak a sample of 
the material in olive or rapeseed oil. Under this process the flax fibre, which in its natural 
condition, is opaque, becomes transparent ; while the cotton, which in its natural condition is 
transparent, becomes under this operation opaque. 

16. Silk fibres become dissolved when treated with concentrated muriatic acid. 

Flax, being cellulose, the action of various chemical agents on it are much the 
same as on cotton, but generally speaking, linen is more susceptible to disintegration 



93 

especially under the influence of caustic alkalies, calcium hydrate, and strong oxidizing 
agents as chlorine, hydrochlorides, etc. Treated with sulphuric acid and iodine solution, the 
thick cell wall is colored blue, while the secondary deposits, immediately enclosing the 
central canal, acquire a yellow color. 

Jute may be considered as consisting of cellulose, a portion of which has become more or 
less modified throughout its mass, into a tannin-like substance. Alkalies actually resolve jute 
into insoluble cellulose and soluble bodies allied to the tannin matters. It is distinguished 
from flax by being colored yellow, uuder the influence of sulphuric acid and iodine solution. 
Under the influence of chlorine, a chlorinated compound is produced, which, when submitted 
to the action of sodium sulphite, develops a brilliant magenta color. 

China Grass is colored blue by sulphuric acid and iodine solution, hence it seems to 
consist essentially of cellulose. 

HOW TO ASCERTAIN THE PERCENTAGE OF EACH MATERIAL 

CONSTITUTING THE FABRIC. 

Test for Wool and Cotton or Silk and Cotton. 

Cut sample for testing to a known size with a sharp pair of scissors, or stamp out the 
desired quantity with a die of which you know the exact size. Next weigh the sample upon 
a sensitive scale, and make a memorandum of its weight ; then dry at a temperature of from 
212° to 230 F., till no further loss of weight is possible, and weigh sample again. This 
weight deducted from the first will give you the amount of moisture in the sample. The 
dried fabric is next boiled for about five minutes in a solution containing about 10 per cent, 
of caustic soda, calculated to the weight of the material, and which will be strong enough to 
entirely dissolve the animal (wool or silk) fibre. The remainder being the cotton the fabric 
contained, which wash well with water, and next with dilute acetic acid and again with 
water. Dry this refuse at 21 2° to 230 F. and when perfectly dry, weigh, thus giving you the 
amount of cotton present, which, if added to the amount of moisture and deducted from the 
original weight of the fabric, will give you the amount of animal (wool and silk) fibre, the 
fabric contains. 

If the sample contains the cotton added in a special structure, for example double cloth, 
the cotton in itself will form a coherent fabric throughout the process. The same, if the per- 
centage of cotton in warp and filling of single cloth structures predominates, or any way is 
sufficient to hold the structure by itself together, no difficulty is apparent. However, if after 
boiling with caustic soda the texture transforms itself into individual fibres or threads floating 
about the liquid, care must be exercised not to lose any of these individual fibres, they must 
be carefully filtered, and the greatest care taken that no fibres get lost in the subsequent 
washing, drying and weighing processes. 

How to Ascertain the Percentage. 

The amount of each kind of fibre in a sample is in proportion to the percentage of each 
fibre in a full piece of cloth. 

Example. — Required to ascertain the percentage of cotton and wool fibre in a fabric. 

Sample for testing weighs 60. 24 grains; after drying at 212 F. , i. e., extracting all 
moisture, it weighs 55.32 grains. The refuse of cotton after drying at 212 F. weighs 
20.08 grains. 



94 

60.24 grains = total weight of sample 

— 55-3 2 " — weight of dried sample 

4.92 " = moisture. 

20.08 grains = weight of dried cotton in sample 
-f- 4.92 " = moisture found in original sample 

25.90 " = weight of cotton and moisture. 

60.24 grains = total weight of sample 

— 25.00 " == weight of cotton and moisture 

35.24 " = weight of wool fibre in sample. 
Answer. — The sample in question contains 
35. 24 grains wool fibre 
20.08 " cotton fibre, and 
+ 4.92 " moisture 



And 



60.24 " tc, tal weight. 



20.08 : 55.32 :: x : 100 = 36.29 per cent, cotton. 
35.24 : 55.32 :: x : 100 = 63.71 per cent. wool. 
Answer. — The sample in question contained 

36.29 per cent, (about 36^3 per cent.) cotton. 
63.71 per cent, (about 63^ percent.) wool. 

Test for Wool and Silk. 

Weigh your sample, next dry it at 212-230 F., weigh it again, and deduct this weight 
from the weight first gotten, and thus obtain the moisture of the fabric. Next dissolve out 
the silk from the fabric by boiling the latter in a solution containing 
850 parts of water 
400 " " zinc chloride 
40 " " zinc oxide. 
Then wash sample thus treated in water, next in dilute hydrochloric acid, and finally in 
water ; dry and weigh. The percentage of silk the fabric contains will be found somewhat 
too low, for the reason that the zinc is permanently absorbed by the wool fibre. 

Test for Fabrics Composed of Cotton, Silk and Wool. 

Proceed with the fabric as in the case before ; after separating the silk and thus ascertain- 
ing the amount of wool and cotton left, the first (wool) is dissolved in caustic soda and the 
amount of cotton in the fabric thus readily obtained. 

HOW TO TEST 'THE SOUNDNESS (i. e. THEIR STRENGTH) OF FIBRES 

OR YARNS. 

The soundness or strength of a fibre (z. e. its elasticity) is of the greatest importance to a 
manufacturer. 

Most often this point will become of importance when selecting or buying a lot of raw 
materials, yet it also will be a necessity to test either fibres used in the construction of yarns, 
or fibres or yarns used in the construction of fabrics. 



95 



Illustration and Description of a Testing Machine.— In order to ascertain exactly the 
strength of the various fibres or yarns, the amount of their elasticity, the use of a little 
machine, as shown in the accompanying illustration, Fig. 74, will be found of great advan- 



tage. Letters of reference in the illustration indicate as 
wood (generally leaded) upon which is fixed a pillar B. 




Fig. 74. 



follows : A, is a base board of hard 
The top end is forked into a jaw, 
carrying on each side a screwed 
centre-piece, into which is fixed 
the fulcrum of the lever C, D. 
These two center-pieces can be 
screwed closer together, or further 
apart, as required, and the pivot 
which forms the fulcrum E, 
of the lever is pointed at 
each end, and fits into a hol- 
low in the two ends of the center- 
pieces and enables it to work 
would be the case if knife edges 



perfectly free, and yet can have no lateral motion as 
were used. 

The lever from E, to D, is divided into five equal parts, each of which is equal to the 
distance of the center of the jaws C, from the centre of the fulcrum at E. G, is a balance 
weight to counterpoise the longer arm E, D, of the lever. Each of the five divisions of the 
lever E, D, are divided into ten parts. The range of the instrument depends upon the weight 
of the sliding weight F, and which can be varied when desirable. Three different weights, 
viz., 50 grains, 100 grains, and 1,000 grains are most frequently used, and the range of the 
instrument with these different weights is as follows : 



Weight. 


First 
Division. 


Second 
Division. 


Third 
Division. 


Fourth 
Division. 


Fifth 
Division. 


Grains. 

50 

100 

1,000 


Grains. 

5° 

100 

1,000 


Grains. 
100 
200 
2,000 


Grains. 

150 

300 

3,000 


Grains. 
200 
400 

4,000 


Grains. 
250 

500 
5,000 



By using the intermediate decimal divisions of spaces on the levers, we obtain in the case 
of the 50 grains weight, an increase of 5 grains for each division ; with the 100 grains weight, 
10 grains for each division, and with the 1,000 grains weight, 100 grains for each division ; 
so that the range is from 50 grains up to 5,000 grains, with difference of not less than 2.5 
grains when the 50 grain weight is used, 5 grains when the 100 grain weight is used, and 50 
grains when the 1,000 grain weight is used. At the end of the lever D, a graduated scale H, 
is placed, divided into spaces which enable the elasticity of the fibre to be measured in terms 
of the distance of the two jaws C, and I, from each other. The generally used arrangement 
is that if the jaws C, and I, are separated one-tenth of an inch it will indicate half an inch on 
the scale H, thus enabling very small ranges of elasticity to be readily seen. 

A small stop S, adjusted by a thumb screw at the back of the plate, is inserted in a long 
slot in the divided plate so as to prevent the lever from falling when the point of fracture is 
reached. 

For moving the weight along the lever a fine silk thread (attached to the ring which 
slides along the lever) is generally used so as to avoid any pressure which otherwise would be 
exercised if using the fingers. Generally two or three experimental tests are made previously 
to the final ones as required for reference. 



96 
HOW TO TEST GIVEN COUNTS OF YARNS. 

The simplest method of testing a given count is thus : — 

Rule. — Reel as many yards as there are hanks to the pound in the count to be tested, 
and weigh against i2}£ (12.5) grains for worsted; 8% (8.33) grains for cotton; 4^(4.375) 
grains for woolen yarn run system, and 23^3 (23.33) grains for woolen yarn cut system. For 
spun silk proceed as per cotton ; for linen, as per woolen cut system. The reason for the 
above shortenings of the process is found in the fact that there are 7,000 grains in one pound 
avoirdupois. For this reason, 1 yard of i's worsted would weigh 7,000 -4- 560 = 12^2 grains ; 
and 10 yards of io's worsted, 20 yards of 20's, 60 yards of 6o's, etc., all should weigh the same. 
The same reasoning applies to the other system of grading (counting) yarns. 



HOW TO ASCERTAIN THE WEIGHT OF CLOTH PER YARD FROM A SMALL 

SAMPLE. 

Frequently it happens to the manufacturer to ascertain from a small sample the weight 
of the fabric in ounces per yard. The more experienced manufacturer will promptly judge 
said weight by simply handling the sample between his thumb and forefinger, i. e., ascertain- 
ing its bulk ; again, by lifting, as to its weight with reference to size of sample in question. 
However, it will also be of benefit to the most experienced manufacturer to test the correct- 
ness of his practical guesswork by weighing the sample on hand on accurate scales, and 
ascertaining from it, by figuring in proportion, the weight in ounces per yard for the fabric. 

How to Proceed. — Trim your sample most accurately to the greatest possible size, for 
the greater the amount of surface you can obtain the more accurately you can figure. After 
you have thus carefully trimmed your sample to a known size, put it on the scales and ascer- 
tain the weight in grains ; from the size of sample and its weight in grains ascertain by pro- 
portion the weight in ounces per yard. 

The whole procedure will be best explained by 

A Practical Example. — Suppose we trimmed our sample, which was a 6/4 fancy cassi- 
mere, to 3 X 3 inches = 9 square inches, and found it to weigh 45 grains ; thus — 

Rule /D" \ . /its weighty .. /\J" in one yard \ . /its weightv 

\in sample/ ' \ in grains / " \of the piece of cloth/ \ in grains / 

Our example : — 9 : 45 :: IQ 44 : x aQ d 

45 X 1944 = 87480 -f- 9 = 9720 grains 
9720 -f- 437^ (grains in one oz.) = 22.21 

Answer : — The fabric in question weighs 22.21 ounce or practically 22^ ounces per yard. 
Above rule given in the proportion might thus be expressed for a standing 

Rule : — Multiply weight in grains of sample with number of square inches in one yard 
of the piece of cloth and divide the product by number of square inches in sample ; the quo- 
tient divide by 437^ thus obtaining the weight of the fabric for one yard expressed in ounces. 

The same result is obtained if proceeding after 

Another Rule : — Cut your sample to a known size and divide the number of square inches 
thus derived into the number of square inches one yard of the fabric contains, multiply the 
quotient of this division with the weights in grains of your sample and divide the product 
by 437^- 



97 

The previously given example will figure according to this calculation : — 
54" fabric = 1944 □" 

1944 — 9 = 216 X 45 = 9720 -i- 437.5 = 22.21 oz. weight of fabric per yard, being the 
same answer as before obtained. 

HOW TO CALCULATE THE WEIGHT OF FINISHED CLOTH. 

Little if anything on this subject can be found in print, since the subject is one which 
must be mastered mostly by experience, again rules would be hard even to apply to every 
fabric of a certain grade of cloth ; however points thus given will assist the student in his 
calculations. 

After mastering the rudiments of the grading of yarns it is an easy matter to ascertain 
the weight of cloth from the loom, since this is nothing but common arithmetic, however, 
it is not so easy for the novice to calculate the weight per yard for finished cloth. In cloth 
made of wool the variation in weight are caused by the loss of oil, grease and dirt in scouring ; 
loss of fibres in fulling, gigging ; increase in weight on account of take up warp-ways of the 
fabric at fulling, and which contraction again may be varied at will according to circum- 
stances. With reference to cotton and linen the influences above mentioned are of no account 
since these materials have little, if any, felting properties. The only modifying influence to be 
taken into account by these materials is, the bending of warp or filling, or of both systems 
during weaving, and the amount of sizing, starching, put into the cotton, etc., during the pro- 
cess of sizing. With reference to silks, variation will also occur, regulated by the condition 
of the yarn, if the same contains a great amount of saliva (gum) left on the fibres quite a loss 
in weight to the fabric may be expected, whereas properly boiled-off silk will lose little, if 
any, during the process of finishing (especially at scouring) of these fabrics. 

With reference to woolen and worsted yarn, as previously mentioned already, the loss of 
oil, etc., which all yarns of this class contain, must be carefully taken into account. The best 
plan will be to reel off a small amount of yarn, weigh it, next scour the same with soap at 
about 96 F., dry and leave the yarn lay for a few days, in order to regain its natural moisture, 
then weigh again, and calculate shrinkage. If you want to be very accurate, test a second 
sample, and proceed as before, and if not obtaining the same result, strike an average between 
both losses for the loss to use in your calculation. 

The next process which will influence the weights of woolen cloths is that of finishing 
and which is a subject that only can be mastered by experience on account of the various 
finishes to which said fabrics are subjected. In fact the only way for a test of this subject is 
the finishing of a sample piece. As previously already alluded to the weight of woolen cloth 
can be varied during the process of fulling by means of shrinking the fabric lengthways, also 
by tentering, crabbing, etc.; however there are limits to the modifying influences of these 
operations, and these limits must be understood if good results are to be obtained. 

This fact of shrinking (take-up) fabrics warp ways during the process of fulling is of the 
greatest influence to the finished weight. Since cloth is sold at a certain price for a certain 
weight, and width of the fabric, any shrinkage (take-up) filling ways, will not influence the 
weight of the cloth per yard. The previously referred to shrinkage of a fabric warp-ways 
will best be explained by an 

Example. — A fabric from the loom 50 yards long weighs 14 ounces per yard. Less in 
oil, fibres, etc., during fulling and scouring 12 percent. Fabric fulled up to 40 yards. 

Question. — Find weight of cloth per yard after fulling. 

50 yards length of cloth from loom. 

X 14 ounces weight of cloth per yard from loom. 



9 8 

700 ounces total weight of the piece from loom ; and 
100 : 88 : : 700 : x 

88 X ? 00 = 616 and 
100 

616 -*- 40 (yards in finished fabric) = 15.4 ounces. 

Answer. — 15.4 ounces weight of cloth per yard after fulling. 

The average loss in weight for woolen cloth, which is generally taken into consideration 
at calculations is thus ; for ordinary goods allow about \ on the calculation weight which 
will bring a fabric of a total weight of 100 pounds from loom down to 80 pounds. For 
clear face finished cloth allow about '4 on the calculation weight, hence a piece of cloth 
weighing 100 pounds from the loom will weigh 75 pounds finished. However, these weights 
will vary. 

After picking out a sample of cloth, the student will find on pages 263-268 of " Tech- 
nology of Textile Design," all the information necessary on the subject of " How to ascertain 
from a finished sample its texture required in loom ; how to ascertain counts of yarn required, 
and the amount and direction of twist ; how to ascertain the weight of cloth per yard from 
loom, etc." 

HOW TO TEST AND ANALYZE THE VARIOUS FINISHES OF COTTON GOODS. 

The first to be done when required to ascertain how a fabric has been finished, is 
to examine the external or physical properties, since a practical eye can detect at once if the 
fabric in question has been simply calendered or glazed, or if starched on the reverse side, etc. 
By examining the fabric against the light, it is easy to observe whether it has been filled or 
not, besides a heavily weighted cloth will lose much of its stiffness by rubbing it between 
the fingers. If, in tearing the sample, a lot of dust flies off, this indicates a weighted finish ; 
and by the aid of the microscope we can readily see whether the thickening is superficial or 
whether it has penetrated into the fabric, and if it contains mineral substances. 

Next we must ascertain the amount of moisture the fabric contains by carefully weighing 
a sample of a known size, drying it in a stove until there can be no further loss of weight, 
then re-weighing the dried piece. The difference of weight is the amount of moisture in 
the cloth. 

Although we cannot come to a conclusion as to the quality of the finish by this process, 
yet it is better to make it, since cellulose by itself is less hygrometric than wheat and other 
starches. If there be a great difference in the weight, this is a certain indication of the cloth 
being heavily starched. 

To know exactly how much foreign matter a cloth contains, treat a large sample of the 
fabric with distilled water containing malt, let it disaggregate, wash afterwards and weigh. 
In this first experiment the difference in weight will indicate the quantity of foreign 
substances deposited on the fabric ; but even after this treatment, certain insoluble soaps may 
still remain in the fabric and it is necessary to again boil in weak acid to remove all fatty 
matters. Weigh again to obtain the actual total loss, and, from the difference in weight, the 
percentage of dry finishing substances is determined. In testing printed or dyed goods, we 
must bear in mind that all colors are more or less attacked by acids. 

The next process is to examine the components, and for which two operations are 
necessary ; first treat with boiling water for a few hours, this removes the feculae, starches, 
thickenings, gums, soluble salts, alum, sulphates, chlorides, etc., and minerals or earthy 
matters ; secondly, by filtering, separate the soluble from the insoluble substances. Soluble 
substances are detected in the following manner : — evaporate part of the liquid, treat a few 
drops with tincture of iodine, which will reveal starchy substances by turning blue j if no 



99 

starch be found, again concentrate the whole and add two or three times its volume of 
alcohol, when glue, dextrine and gum are precipitated. Gelatine is detected by a tannin 
solution which precipitates it. 

To distinguish gum from dextrine, use the Polariscope, when dextrine is diverted to the 
right, gum to the left. The mixture of the two can be sufficiently indicated by basic acetate 
of lead, which, when cold, precipitates gum, but not dextrine; when warm, both are 
precipitated ; if no precipitation be obtained, but an organic substance be still shown by the 
incineration on the platinum blade, this indicates the presence of mosses, lichens, etc. Sugar 
is found by Fehling's liquor, before and after interversion ; add to the tolerably concentrated 
aqueous liquor a few cubic centimetres of pure hydrochloric acid, ordinary concentration, 
warm in water bath, in an apparatus with reflux refrigerator and treat with copper solution. 

If it is desired to examine still more closely the soluble mineral substances, recourse must 
be had to the usual methods of analytical chemistry. 

In the residue insoluble in water, we again find the earthy matters, which it is unneces- 
sary to examine closer, as generally the most economical are employed and China clay is one 
of the only substances which fulfils almost all the conditions and therefore is also the most 
frequently used ; alabaster, gypsum and talc or French chalk, are also found in this residue. 

If it is desired to detect resin, take a sample of the cloth, boil it with carbonate of soda, 
which dissolves the resin the presence of which is shown by the precipitate of sylvic acid 
obtained from the liquor when treated by an acid. The other fatty matters do not give any 
precipitate, but an oily fluid which swims on the surface of the liquor. Glycerine is found 
in the watery solution and can be detected, after the damping of the drying process by the 
acroleine reaction, which takes place after treating with sulphate of potash. 

To ascertain the quantity of fatty matters contained in a certain finish, a second opera- 
tion is performed by ether, which dissolves all fatty matters. After evaporation the weight 
of the residue expresses the quantity of fatty matter. An exact analysis of this mixture is 
not possible practically ; we must be satisfied with treating with boiling water and thus 
ascertain that there are no soluble substances in the water. 

In analysing the quality of a certain finish it is almost impossible to obtain the quantita- 
tive proportions : the various qualities of cloth requiring such varied treatment. The prin- 
cipal point is to know what substances are incorporated and this determination once made, 
it is for the practitioner to discover by preliminary experiments, the proportion of the various 
ingredients. 



THE BEST SIZE FOR COTTON GOODS 

consists of: 

Farina or flour. 

Chloride of magnesium to give the necessary moisture and consequent suppleness and 
pliability to the warp. 

Chloride of Zinc (Antiseptic) to prevent mildew in damp weather, consequent upon the 
necessary use of magnesium. 

Neutralized Fat (in place of Tallow) to prevent the yarn from sticking to the cylinder 
and breaking in the opening rods. This neutralized fat mixes readily with the size and does 
not swim on top same as tallow or oil. 

Sizing Wax (specially made to melt and dissolve in the size at a low temperature) used 
to smooth the yarn and lubricate the heddles and reed. 

Gum (white) to give additional strength. 

China Clay (or French chalk) for extra heavy weight. 



IOO 



Size Glue (Gelatine) or bone size, used for the purpose of fixing the other ingredients. 
The amount of each ingredient required is regulated by the kind of yarn used and cloth to 
be woven. 



TO ASCERTAIN THE PERCENTAGE OF SIZE 

(or finish) in a piece of cotton cloth, weigh sample, then wash and dry it and weigh it again, 
and the difference represents the amount of size or finish in the sample. 

Example: — Sample for testing 6" X 6" = 36Q" weighs 7.46 grains. After scouring 
and drying this sample weighs only 5.32 grains. 

Question: — Ascertain percentage of size employed 
5.32 : 7.46 : : 100 : x = 140.22 

i. e. according to sample 100 pounds yarn have been sized to 140.22 pounds 
giving us 

Answer: — The fabric requires 40 per cent, (actually 40.22 per cent.) sizing. 



SUBSTANCES USED IN FINISHING COTTON CLOTH. 

For Stiffenitig : — Corn, wheat, rice, acorn, maize, barley, chestnut, potato or farina 

starches and diverse flours — Arrow-root, salep, sago, tapioca, linseed — Gums, dextrine, 

leiogomme, gelatine, isinglass, lichens, Iceland moss, algae, apparatim, dulcine, albumen, 
casein. 

For Softening . — Glycerine, glucose, fatty matters, tallow, paraffin, stearine, spermaceti, 
cocoa-nut oil, soluble oil, olive oil, bees or Japan wax, soda ash, ammonia, chloride of calcium 
or zinc. 

For Weighting : — Gypsum, plaster of Paris, chalk, Spanish clay, the sulphates of lime, 
baryta, magnesia, soda, zinc or lead, talc, china-clay, chloride of magnesia or barium, car- 
bonate of barium, cellulose. 

For Coloring Size: — Ultramarine, blues, pinks, violets, greens, Prussian blues, indigo 
blues, Paris blue, soluble indigo blue, aniline blues of all kinds, cobalt blues, indigo carmine, 
ammoniacal cochineal, black, grey and dark mineral matters, etc. Ochres of all colors. 

Antiseptics: — Carbolic, salicylic, tannic, oxalic, boracic, formic, arsenic and arsenious acids, 
reosote, camphor, sulphate of zinc, chloride of zinc, borate of soda, alum, sulphate of alumina, 
chloride of sodium. 

To make Fabrics Water-proof: — Greasy matters of all natures, resin, paraffin, tannic acid, 
drying oils, salts of alumina, alums, carbonate of magnesia. 

To render Fabrics Incombustible .-—Boracic acid, borax, phosphate of soda, lime or 
ammonia, carbonate of magnesia, alum, sulphate of soda or zinc, silicates in general, gypsum, 
salts of magnesia. 

To give Metalic Ltistre : — Sulphides of lead, silver, tin, antimony, etc. Bronze, silver, 
copper and gold powders, argentine, etc. 



IOI 



COTTON SPINNING. 

Power Required to Drive the Various Machines in a Cotton Mill. 

Pickers 6 to 8 horse power 

Cards 3 to 5 cards per horse power 

Railway Head % to i}4 horse power 

Drawing Frame 4 to 6 deliveries per horse power 

Coarse Speeder 27 to 33 spindles per horse power 

Intermediate Speeder 37 to 50 spindles per horse power 

Pine Speeder 42 to 51 spindles per horse power 

Slubber Fly Frame 40 to 50 spindles per horse power 

Intermediate Fly Frame 70 to 80 spindles per horse power 

Fine Fly Frame ... 1 100 to 120 spindles per horse power 

Ring Spindles, Common 70 to 120 spindles per horse power 

Ring Spindles, Sawyer 90 to 130 spindles per horse power 

Ring Spindles, Rabbeth 70 to 90 spindles per horse power 

Spooler 250 to 400 spindles per horse power 

Warper 4 to 6 per horse power 

Slasher 1^ toi^ horse power 

Loom 4 to 6 looms per horse power 

Speed of the Various Machines in a Cotton Mill. 



Revs, per Min. 

Picker, Beater 1,300 to 1,600 

Picker, Fan 1,400 to 1,700 

Card, Cylinder 120 to 150 

Railway Head, Front Roll . . 400 to 500 
Drawing Frame, Front Roll . 300 to 400 

Coarse Speeder, Flyer 720 

Intermediate Speeder, Flyer .... 900 

Fine Speeder, Flyer 1,250 

Slubber Fly Frame, Flyers 600 

Intermediate Fly Frames, Flyers . . . 900 



Revs, per rain. 

Fine Fly Frames, Flyers 1,100 

Ring Spindle, Common . . 6,000 to 7,000 
Ring Spindle, Sawyer . . . 7,000 to 7,800 
Ring Spindle, New Rabbeth, 7,000 to 10,000 
Mule Spindles ..... 5,000 to 10,000 

Spooler Spindles 700 to 900 

Warper, Drum 30 to 40 

Slasher, Pulley 350 to 400 

Loorns on Prints 17010190 

Looms on Sheetings 15010170 



Heat and Moisture Required for Good Cotton Spinning and Weaving. 

In Spinning use 68° F with 65 per cent, moisture ; 
In Weaving use 68° F with 80 per cent, moisture. 

SLIVER TABLE. 



Grains 
Per Yard. 


Number. 


Grains 
Per Yard 


Number. 


Grains 
Per Yard. 


Number. 


Grains 
Per Yard. 


Number. 


120 


069 


86 


0097 


66 


0.126 


52 


160 


no 


0.076 


83-3 


100 


62 


0.134 


50 


0.167 


102 


6.082 


82 


0.103 


60 


0139 


45 


0.185 


98 


0.085 


78 


0.107 


58 


0.144 


40 


0208 


94 


0.089 


74 


0.113 


56 


0.148 


35 


0.238 


90 


0.093 


70 


0.1 19 


54 


0.154 


30 


0.278 



102 

ROVING TABLE. 

(This can be used with one or ten yards readily.) 



Grains 


No. of 


Grains 


No. of 


Grains 


No. of 


Grains 


No. of 


Per Yard. 


Roving. 


Per Yard. 


Roving. 


Per Yard. 


Roving. 


Per Yard. 


Roving. 


83-33 


O.IO 


6 41 


13 


2.3S 


3X 


1 234 


6% 


55-56 


015 


5-95 


1-4 


2.22 


sH 


1 190 


7 , 


41.66 


20 


5 55 


i-5 


2.08 


4 


I 149 


7'X 


27.77 


030 


5 20 


1.6 


1.96 


A% 


I. Ill 


7'A 


20 83 


040 


490 


17 


185 


A l A 


I-075 


1U 


16.66 


0.50 


4 62 


1 8 


1 75 


aH 


j.041 


8 


13-88 


0.60 


4 38 


i-9 


1.66 


5 


I.OIO 


S'X 


11.90 


0.70 


4 16 


2 


1-58 


5'A 


9S0 


8'A 


10.41 


0.80 


3 7° 


2^ 


i-5i 


5'A 


0952 


8% 


925 


90 


3 33 


2^ 


1.44 


5# 


0925 


9 


8.33 


1.00 


3-°3 


2X 


1.38 


6 


. . . 




7 57 


1. 10 


2.77 


3 


1-33 


6% 


. . . 


. . . 


694 


1 20 


2.56 


3'X 


1 28 


6/ 2 




' • ' 



Calculation for Yarns 20's to 26's from the Lap to the Yarn. 

Lap 11 ounces per yard, sliver 54 grains per yard, will give draft on card about 89, 
including loss by waste. 

In this example we will take three processes of drawing, leaving it optional whether we 
use two processes or three ; some spinners only using two, especially when there are three 
frames following. 

Doubling 6 and drawing 6 will produce the sliver at all the heads about the same weight, 
54 grains or o. 154 hank. Product, 1000 pounds per delivery per week of 60 hours. 

Draft in slubbing 4.0 and 54 grains drawing, will give 0.62 hanks slubbing. Product, 
87 pounds per spindle per week. 

Draft on intermediate 4.5 and 0.62 double slubbing will give 1.4 hank intermediate. 
Product 40 pounds per spindle per week. 

Draft in roving 5.3 and 1.4 double intermediate will give 3.7 roving. Product, 12^ 
pounds per week. 

Draft in spinning 7, from this roving will give 26's yarn. 

Production of Ring Throstles i}i to 1^ pounds per spindle per week. 

Production of Self-acting Mule 1 pound to i}i pounds per spindle per week. 

How to Ascertain the Capacity of a Carding Engine. 

Rule. — Multiply the speed of the delivery roller by its circumference, which will give the 
inches turned off per minute ; multiply this result by 60 (minutes per hour), then by 60 (hours 
worked per week), this result by 36 (inches in a yard), multiply this again by the weight of 1 
yard of sliver, and the result equals the card's capacity. 

How to Find the Number of Carding Engines Required to Give Regular Supply of Cotton to 

Each Drawing Frame. 

Multiply the inches taken in by the back roller per minute by the number of ends put 
up; and divide the product by the inches delivered by each carding engine per minute. 

How to Find the Quantity of Filleting Required to Cover a Card Cylinder or Doffer. 

Rule. — Add the thickness of the filleting to the diameter of the cylinder or doffer, which 
total take for the diameter ; then the circumference of the cylinder or doffer, multiplied by 
its length, and divided by the breadth of the filleting, will give the length required. 



103 

Traveller Table for Spinning at Medium Speeds. 

Such as 4,000 per minute for io's counts of yarn ; 5,000 for 12's; 5,500 for I4's ; 6,000 
for 16's ; 6,500 for 20's ; 7,000 24's ; 7,500 for 30's ; 8,500 for 40's ; 9,000 for 50's. 





Diam. of 


Diam of 




Diam. of 


Diam. of 




Rings 1 l 3 in. 


Rings 1 )i in. 




Rings i}4 in. 


Rings l%in. 


Count* 


Nuuitier 


Numbei' 


Counts 


Number 


Number 


of Yarn 


of Traveler 


of Traveler 


of Yarn 


of Traveler 


of Traveler 


10 's require 


8's or 7*S 


7's or 6'S 


30 's require 


3/0 or 4/0 


4/0 or 5/0 


1 1 's 


8's or 7'.s 


7's or 6's 


3 i's " 


3/0 or 4/0 


4/0 or 5/0 


1 2 's " 


7's or 6's 


6's or 5's 


32's " 


4/0 or 5/0 


5/0 or 6/0 


13's " 


7's or 6's 


6's or 5's 


33's " 


4/0 or 5/0 


5/0 or 6/0 


14's " 


6's or 5's 


5's or 4's 


34 's " 


5/0 or 6/0 


6/0 or 7/0 


15's " 


6's or 5's 


5's or 4's 


35's " 


5/0 or 6/0 


6/0 or 7/0 


i6's " 


S's or 4's 


4's or 3's 


36's 


6/0 or 7/0 


7/0 or 8/0 


17's " 


5's or 4's 


4's or 3's 


37 's " 


6/0 or 7/0 


7/0 or 8/0 


18's 


4's or 3's 


3 's or 2 's 


38's " 


7/0 or 8/0 


8/0 or 9/0 


i 9 's' " 


4's or 3's 


3's or 2's 


39's " 


7/0 or 8/0 


S/o or 9/0 


20 's " 


3's or 2's 


2 's or 1 's 


40 's ' ' 


8/0 or 9/0 


9/0 or 1 0/0 


2l'S " 


3 's or 2 's 


2's or 1 's 


4 i's " 


8/0 or 9 


9/0 or 1 0/0 


22 'S " 


2 's or 1 's 


i'sor ) /o 


42 's " 


9/0 or 10/0 


10/0 or 11/0 


23 's 


2 's or 1 's 


i's or 1/6 


43's 


9/0 or 1 0/0 


10/0 or 1 1/0 


24 's " 


1 's or 1/0 


1/0 or 2/0 


44's " 


10/0 or 11/0 


ir/o or 12/0 


25'S 


1 's or 1/0 


1/0 or 2/0 


45 's " 


10/0 or 11/0 


11/0 or 12/0 


26 's 


1/0 or 2/0 


2/0 or 3/0 


46 's " 


11/0 or 12/0 


12/0 or 13/0 


27 's " 


1/0 or 2/0 


2/0 or 3/0 


47's " 


11/0 or 12/0 


12/0 or 13/0 


28's 


2/0 or 3/0 


3/0 or 4/0 


48's 


12/0 or 13/0 


13/0 or 14/0 


29 's " 


2/0 or 3/0 


3/0 or 4/0 


50's 


13/0 or 14/0 


14/0 or 150 



Note. — When spinning long stapled cotton, such as Sea Island or Egyptian, a Traveler 
from four to six grades or numbers heavier than is shown in the above table may be used. 



To Calculate Loss of Twist in Ring Spinning. 

The usual way of calculating loss of twist through the various dias. of the bobbin as it 
fills is as follows : Each coil of yarn deposited on the bobbins is equal to a loss of 1 turn in 
twist in that length of yarn constituting the coil. Let it be assumed that the yarn (20's) 
has 16.75 turns per inch according to roller and spindle speed. 

Smallest circum. of bobbin 2\i inches X 16.75 turns = 1 turn lost in 41.87 turns. 

Largest " " 4.75 inches X 16.75 " = l " " 79 5 6 " 



Average mean loss . . . . =1 " " 60. 7 " 

This calculation, however, is not correct, as the actual loss is more, and in order to get 
at the truth the layers of yarn deposited in one up and down motion of the ring rail must 
be measured and multiplied by the number of turns per inch, and the number of coils in the 
2 layers of yarn must be counted, and divided into total number of turns. Thus, if the 
up motion of the ring rail deposits 72 inches of 20's yarn with 16.75 calculated turns per 
inch, then 72 X 16.75 = T >2o6 -r- 20 coils = 1.8 per cent, of loss, and if the down motion 
deposits 178 inches of yarn with 16.75 calculated turns, then 178 X 16.75 = 2,981.5 — 46 
coils = 1.6 per cent., or an average for one tip and down motion of the ring rail of 1.7 per 
cent. Of course, the finer the yarn spun the less the percentage of loss in twist, as the rings 
are smaller and the difference between the diameter of empty and full bobbin is less, and 
the number of turns per inch is more. 



104 

To Find the Percentage Cotton Yarn Contracts in Twisting. 

Rule. — Divide the number of the yarn by the product of the draught and hank roving, 
and subtract the quotient from i. 

Example. — 28's yarn spun from 4 hank rove, draught 7.25. 

7.25 X 4 = 29 

28 -S- 29 = O.965 
I. OOO 
— O.965 



0-035 

Answer. — The contraction in length amounts to 3^ per cent. 

How to Ascertain the Number of Yards of Cotton Yarn on a Bobbin. 

Rule. — Multiply circumference of front roll (inches) with the number of revolutions 
per minute, and the product by time (minutes) required to fill the bobbin ; divide by 36 and 
deduct the contraction in twisting, the result being the amount (number of yards) of yarn 
on the bobbin. 

TWIST TABLE. 





Extra Warp 




Extra Mule 






Twist for 


Twist for 


Counts. 


Twist. 


Warp Twist. 


Twist. 


Mule Twist. 


Filling Twist. 


Doubling. 


Hosiery 
Yarn. 


1 


4.75 


4.50 


4.00 


3.75 


3.25 


2.75 


2.50 


2 


6 72 


636 


5-66 


5-3o 


4.60 


3.88 


3 53 


3 


8.23 


7 79 


6-93 


650 


563 


4.76 


433 


4 


9 5o 


9.00 


800 


7-5o 


6.50 


5-5o 


5.00 


5 


10.62 


10.06 


8.94 


839 


7.27 


6 14 


5 59 


6 


11 64 


11.02 


9.80 


9 19 


7 96 


6 73 


6.12 


7 


12.57 


11. 91 


10.58 


9.92 


8.60 


7.27 


661 


8 


13 44 


12.73 


11. 31 


10.61 


9 19 


7-77 


7.07 


9 


14 25 


13 5o 


12.00 


11.25 


9-75 


8.25 


7 50 


10 


1502 


14 23 


12.65 


11.86 


10 28 


8.79 


790 


11 


15-75 


14.92 


13-27 


12.44 


10.78 


9.12 


8 29 


12 


1645 


15 59 


1386 


12.99 


11 26 


9-52 


8 66 


13 


17 13 


16.22 


14.42 


13-52 


11.72 


9.91 


901 


14 


'7-77 


16 S4 


14-97 


1403 


12.16 


10.28 


9 35 


15 


1S.40 


17-43 


15 49 


14-52 


1259 


10.65 


968 


16 


19 00 


18.00 


16.00 


15.00 


13 00 


ir.oo 


10. CO 


17 


1958 


iS-55 


16.49 


15.46 


13-40 


11 33 


1030 


18 


20.15 


1909 


16.97 


15 91 


J3-79 


ir.66 


10 60 


19 


20 70 


19.62 


17 44 


16.35 


14 17 


11.98 


10 89 


20 


21.24 


20.12 


17.89 


16.77 


14 53 


12.29 


II 18 


22 


22.28 


21. 11 


18 76 


17 59 


15-24 


12.S9 


II 72 


24 


23 27 


22.05 


19 60 


1837 


I5-92 


13-47 


12 24 


26 


24.22 


22 95 


20.40 


19 12 


16.57 


14.02 


12 74 


28 


25 13 


2381 


21.17 


1984 


17. 2J> 


14-55 


13 22 


3° 


26 02 


24.65 


21 91 
22.63 


20.54 


17 80 


15 06 


1369 


3 2 


2687 


2546 


21 21 


I838 


15.56 




34 


27.70 


26.24 


23-32 


21 87 


18.95 


16.03 








36 


28.50 


27.00 


24 00 


22 50 


195° 


1650 


. 






33 


29.28 


27-74 


24.66 


23 12 


20.03 


16.95 








40 


3004 


28.46 


25 30 


23.72 


20 55 


17-39 








45 


31.86 


30.19 


2683 


25.16 


2I.80 


1844 


. 






5° 


33-59 


31.82 


28.28 


26.52 


22.98 


1944 


. 






60 


36- 79 


34. S6 


30.98 


29.05 


25-17 


21.30 


. 






70 


39-74 


37 65 


33-47 


31 37 


27 19 


23 00 


. 






80 


42 49 


40.25 


35-73 


33 54 


29 07 


24 59 








90 


45 06 


42 69 


3795 


35 58 


30 83 


2608 


. 






100 


47-50 


45.00 


40.00 


37-5o 


32.50 


2750 


. 






120 


5203 


49-30 


43.82 


41 


08 


35.60 


30.12 


. 






130 


54-16 


5I-3I 


45 61 


42 


76 


37.06 


31 35 


. 






140 


56.20 


53 24 


47-33 


44 


37 


38.45 


32 54 


. 






160 


60x8 


56.91 


50.59 


47 


43 


41 IO 


34 78 


. 






180 


63.72 


60.37 


53-66 


5o 


31 


43.60 


3689 


. 






200 


67 17 


6363 


5656 


53 


03 


45.96 


3S.89 









io5 



DRAPER'S TABLE OF THE BREAKING WEIGHT OF AMERICAN COTTON 

WARP YARNS PER SKEIN. 









(Weight given in 


pounds and tenths.) 








No. 


Breaking 
Weight. 


No. 


Breaking 

Weight. 


No. 


Breaking 
Weight. 


No. 


Breaking 
Weight. 


No. 


Breaking 
Weight. 


t 




21 


838 


M 


43-8 


61 


31-3 


8. 


243 


2 




22 


79-7 


42 


43-o 


62 


30.8 


82 


24.0 


3 


5300 


23 


759 


43 


42.2 


63 


3°4 


83 


237 


4 


4100 


24 


72.4 


44 


41.4 


64 


300 


84 


234 


5 


330.O 


25 


69 2 


45 


40.7 


65 


29 6 


85 


23 2 


6 


2750 


26 


66.3 


46 


40.0 


66 


29.2 


86 


22.8 


7 


2376 


27 


63.6 


47 


39 3 


67 


288 


87 


22 6 


8 


209.0 


28 


61.3 


48 


386 


68 


285 


88 


22.4 


9 


186.5 


29 


592 


49 


37-9 


69 


28.2 


89 


22.2 


10 


168.7 


3° 


57-3 


50 


373 


70 


27.8 


90 


22.0 


II 


154 1 


3' 


55-6 


5' 


36.6 


7t 


27-4 


91 


2'.7 


12 


14 -'.0 


32 


54-0 


52 


361 


72 


27 1 


92 


21-5 


'3 


i3'-5 


33 


52.6 


53 


35 5 


73 


26.8 


93 


21-3 


14 


122.8 


34 


51-2 


54 


34-9 


74 


26.5 


94 


21.2 


IS 


I I.S.I 


35 


50.0 


55 


34 4 


75 


26.2 


95 


21.0 


■6 


10S 4 


36 


48.7 


56 


33-8 


76 


25.8 


96 


20 7 


17 


102.5 


37 


47.6 


57 


33-4 


77 


25 5 


97 


20 5 


18 


97-3 


38 


465 


58 


32.8 


78 


25-3 


98 


20.4 


19 


92.6 


39 


455 


59 


32-3 


79 


24 9 


99 


20 2 


20 


88.3 


40 


44.6 


60 


31-7 


80 


24 6 


loo 


20.0 



Table Giving the Amount of Twist for the Various Kinds of Twisted Yarn. 



£°5 
•° £'? 

Pi 



1 

2 
3 
4 
5 

6 
7 
8 
9 
10 
11 
12 
13 
14 
15 
16 
17 
18 
19 
20 
21 
22 
23 
24 



2 Ply 



2.S3 
4.00 
490 
566 
632 

6 93 
748 
8.0O 
848 
8.94 
9-33 
980 
10 20 
1058 

10 96 
11.31 

11 66 

12 00 
[12 33 

12-65 

1 12 96 

113 26 
'3 56 

I1386 



3 Ply 



2 31 
3-28 
4.00 
4.61 

5->7 
566 
6.10 
6-54 

6 93 
7-3° 

7 66 

8 00 
832 

8 64 
8.94 
924 
952 

9 80 
10 06 

'0.33 
10.58 
10 81 
11.08 
11-31 



4 Ply 5 P'y 



6 Ply 



1.65 

230 
2.83 
328 
364 

4.00 

4-33 
4.61 
490 

5 17 
5-4i 
5-66 

589 

6 10 
6.32 

6 54 
6.73 
6-93 
7.12 

7 3° 
748 
766 
7.83 
Soo 



fep 

n a > 

Si- p 

Pi 



20 
27 
28 
29 
30 
31 
32 
33 
34 
35 
36 
37 
38 
39 
40 
41 
42 
43 
44 
45 
46 
47 
48 



2 Ply 



3 Ply 



14.14 


u-54 


14 42 


1 ..78 


14.70 


12 00 


14.96 


12 22 


1523 


12.44 


15-49 


12.65 


T 5-75 


12.86 


l6 OO 


13.06 


'625 


13.26 


1649 


I3-46 


16.73 


13.66 


16 97 


13.86 


17 20 


14.04 


'7 43 


14.24 


17 66 


14.42 


17.89 


14 60 


18 11 


14 79 


'8 33 


14.96 


18.5s 


15-14 


18.76 


15-32 


18.97 


15-49 


19 18 


1566 


19 39 


15.84 


19 59 


16 00 



4 Ply 


5 Ply 


6 Ply 


"° 

■° 5 i 

8 M|- 
Pi 


2 Plv 


3 Ply 


4 riy 














IO.OO 


894 


8.17 


49 


19 So 


16.16 


14 00 


IO 20 


9 12 


8 32 


50 


20.00 


■6 33 


14 14 


IO39 


93° 


848 


51 


20 20 


1649 


14 28 


'O58 


9.46 


864 


52 


20 40 


16 6s 


14.42 


IO.77 


963 


8.79 


53 


20 59 


16.82 


14.56 


IO.96 


9.80 


8 94 


54 


20 78 


16.97 


1470 


1I.I4 


996 


9. IO 


55 


20.98 


17 12 


1483 


II. 31 


10.12 


9.24 


56 


21.16 


17.28 


1496 


II.49 


10 28 


9 3H 


57 


2136 


17-43 


15 10 


11.66 


1043 


9 52 


58 


21-54 


17-59 


'5-23 


■183 


10.58 


966 


59 


21.72 


17-74 


i.S-36 


12 00 


IO-73 


9.80 


60 


21.91 


1789 


15 49 


12.16 


10.88 


9 94 


61 


22 09 


18.04 


1562 


12 33 


11.03 


10. 06 


62 


22.27 


18 18 


15-75 


12 49 


11. 17 


10.20 


63 


2245 


18 33 


■ 5S8 


12.6.5 


11 3i 


1033 


64 


22.62 


1847 


16 CO 


1281 


11.46 


1045 


65 


22.80 


1862 


16 12 


12 96 


11-59 


1058 


66 


22 98 


18 76 


16.25 


13.12 


" 73 


1071 


67 


23-15 


1890 


6.37 


13 26 


11.87 


10 83 


68 


23 32 


1904 


16 49 


13 42 


12.00 


10 96 


69 


23 5° 


19 18 


16 61 


13.56 


12.13 


11.08 


70 


23.66 


1932 


16 73 


13-71 


12.26 


11 19 


71 


23.83 


19.46 


16.85 


1386 


12.39 


it 31 


72 


24 00 


19 59 


16.97 



5 Ply 6 Ply 



Production of Drawing Frames. 

The front rollers of these frames vary from 1% to i}& inches; i}i inches diameter is 
taken ; this with 60 grains sliver will produce in 60 hours as follows : 



Front Roller, i J-a inches. 


Front Roller, 1% inches. 


Revolutions per minute. 


Production, 60 hours. 


Revolutions per minute. 


Production, 60 hours. 


300 
320 
340 


1,000 lbs. 
1,065 lbs. 
1,135 lbs. 


360 
380 
400 


1,200 lbs. 
1,265 lbs. 
1,335 lbs. 



Lighter or heavier slivers in proportion. 



io6 



Table Giving Production per Spindle for Warp and Filling Yarn from 4's to 6o's. 



a 

3 

V. 



4 
5 
6 
7 
8 
9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

18 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

25 

26 

27 

28 

29 

30 

31 

32 

33 

34 

35 

36* 

37 

38 

39 

40 

42 

44 

46 

48 

50 

52 

54 

56 

58 

60 



Warp Yarn Ring Frame. 



a o 

11° 

o2 £ 



o o . 
.2 vii 



Hi 



1550 


4600 


1535 


5100 


1520 


5600 


150.4 


5900 


148.9 


6300 


1474 


6600 


1459 


6990 


'443 


7100 


142 8 


7400 


•4i 3 


7600 


139 7 


7800 


138.2 


8000 


1367 


8200 


135- 1 


8300 


133-6 


S500 


132-1 


8600 


1306 


8700 


129.0 


8800 


127.5 


8900 


126.0 


9000 


124.4 


9100 


122 9 


9200 


121. 4 


9200 


119.8 


9300 


1183 


9300 


116.8 


9400 


"5-3 


9400 


"3-7 


9400 


112. 2 


9500 


1 10.7 


9500 


109. 1 


9500 


107.6 


9500 


106. 1 


9500 


1045 


9500 


1030 


9500 


101.5 


9500 


100 


9500 


98.0 


9500 


96.0 


9500 


94.0 


9500 


82.0 


9500 


90.0 


9600 


89.0 


9600 


88.0 


9600 


87.o 


9600 


86.0 


9800 


85.0 


9800 



a a* 3 - 
o m v 

3 3.5 >. 

■o o an 



Filling Yarn Ring Frame. 



Filling Yarn Mule. 



2.160 

I.716 

1. 418 

I.205 

2.043 

.92 [ 

.822 

.741 

.673 
.616 
.566 
•524 
.486 

•453 
•424 
•398 
•374 
•353 
•333 
•315 
•299 
.284 
.270 
•257 
.245 
•234 
.224 
.214 
.205 
.196 
.188 
.181 

• 173 
.166 
.160 
.154 
.148 
.138 
.130 
.122 

.115 
.108 
.103 
.099 
.094 
.090 
.0S6 



POO 

o." o 



169 1 
168.0 
166.6 

165-5 
1636 

162.5 
160.5 
!59-o 
1580 

157-3 
155-6 
154 2 
i5i-7 
149.6 
147.8 
146 1 
144 6 

143-3 
142. 1 

I39-Q 

136. 1 

135-3 
134.6 

132-1 
130-7 
128.4 
126.2 

1251 
123 1 

121. 2 

"9 4 
117.7 
116. 1 

II5-3 
114.6 

H3-I 

112.5 

1 10.5 

1080 

105.6 

103.4 

101.3 

100.7 

988 

970 

954 

93 8 



« 



3400 

3775 
4100 
4400 
4650 
4900 
5100 
53°o 
55oo 
5700 
5850 
6000 
6100 
6200 
6300 
6400 
6500 
6600 
6700 
6700 
6700 
6800 
6900 
6900 
6950 
6950 
6950 
7000 
7000 
7000 
7000 
7000 
7000 
7050 
7100 
7100 

7150 
7200 
7200 
7200 
7200 
7200 
7300 
7300 
7300 
7300 
7300 



a a«- 
.2 "i " 

"a? 
3 s 2 >, 

gs.u-.-o 



2 305 
1-835 
I.52O 
1 297 
1. 124 

•994 
.885 

•799 
• 729 
.671 
.618 
■573 
•529 
.492 
.460 
■432 
.407 

.385 
■365 
•342 
•321 
•307 
•295 
.279 
.266 

•253 
.241 
.232 
.221 
.212 
.203 

•'95 
.187 
.181 

•175 
.169 
.164 
•154 
.144 
•'35 
.128 
.120 

•115 
.110 
.104 
.099 
.094 



u. o a 

M 41 » 

<U — X 

jj 3 a; 



tl) 



46IO 

4 575 
4 54° 
4-505 
4470 

4 435 
4 400 

4 365 
4 33o 
4 295 
4 260 
4 225 
4.190 

4-155 
4.120 
40S5 
4050 
4015 
3.980 

3945 
3.910 

3S75 
3 840 
3805 
3 77o 
3 735 
3 700 
3665 
3 630 
3 595 
3 560 
3525 
3 49o 
3 455 
3420 

3 385 
3-35o 
3.280 
3.210 
3-i4o 
3 070 
3.000 
2.930 
2 860 
2 790 
2 720 
2.650 



^ a 



D 4> 

a P. 
X 



5.322 
5-291 
5.260 
5 229 
5-198 
5166 
5-134 
5 102 
5-071 
5038 
5-to6 
4 974 
4 941 
4.908 
4.876 

4-843 
4.810 
4-776 

4 743 
4.709 
4676 
4642 
4608 
4-574 
4-539 
4-505 
4.470 

4 435 
4401 
4.366 
4 331 
4-295 
4.260 
4.224 
4.188 
4152 
4 116 
4044 
3-971 
3897 
3-823 
3 748 
3-672 
3597 
3 520 
3 421 
3-364 



o w 41 
<■> a ~ 

3 3.2 ^. 

£&.:/: -a 
ft. 



I-330 
I-05S 

.866 

•747 
.650 

■574 
•5i3 

.464 

■423 
.388 
•358 
•332 
•309 
.289 

.27! 

•255 
.241 
.227 
.216 
• 205 

•195 
.186 
.178 
.169 
.162 

.155 
.149 

.143 

.138 

•132 

.127 

.123 
.118 
.114 

.110 
•107 

• 103 

.096 
.090 

.085 
.080 
•075 

.070 

.066- 

.062 

•059 
.056 



4 
5 
6 
7 
8 
9 
10 
11 
12 
13 
14 
15 
16 
17 
18 
19 
20 
21 
22 
23 
24 
25 
26 
27 
28 
29 
30 
31 
32 
33 
34 
35 
36 
37 
38 
39 
40 
42 
44 
46 
48 
50 
52 
54 
56 
58 
60 



Production of Cards at Various Speeds with Various Weights of Slivers. 





Production in lbs. in 60 hours. 


Speed of Doffer. 


60 grs. Sliver. 


55 grs. Sliver. 


50 grs. Sliver. 


10 revolutions 


665 
730 
800 
865 
930 
1,000 
1,065 

M30 
1,200 


6lO 
670 
730 
790 
850 
915 
975 
1.035 
i, 100 


555 


11 " .... 


12 " 


665 
720 
775 
835 
890 
940 








16 " 




18 







With slivers of other weights the production will be relative. 



Rut 
ference. 



107 

SPEED, BELTING, POWER, ETC. 

SPEED. 

How to Find the Circumference of a Circle, or of a Pulley. 
Rule. — Multiply the diameter by 3 1416 ; or as 7 is to 22 so is the diameter to the circuui- 



How to Compute the Diameter of a Circle, or of a Pulley. 

Rule. — Divide the circumference by 3.1416 ; or multiply the circumference by .3183 ; or 
as 22 is to 7 so is the circumference to the diameter. 

How to Compute the Area of a Circle.. 

Rule. — Multiply the circumference by one-quarter of the diameter; or multiply the 
square of the diameter by .7854 ; or multiply the square of the circumference by .07958; or 
multiply half the circumference by half the diameter ; or multiply the square of half the dia- 
meter by 3. 1416. . 

How to Determine the Speed of a Driven Shaft when the speed of a driving shaft or wheel 
and the size of the gearing transmitting the power is given. 

Rule. — Multiply the speed of the first driving shaft by the size of the driving wheel or 
wheels, and divide by the size of the driven wheel or wheels. 

Example. — A line shaft in a weave room revolves 120 times per minute, and carries 
pulley 12 inches in diameter. The looms driven by them carry pulleys 10 inches in diameter. 

Question. — Find the speed of the looms ? 

M 
T 20 ^ T 2 

Ansiver. — The speed of the looms is = 144 revolutions. 

The term size of the wheel in before given rule includes either the number of teeth, dia- 
meter, radius, or pitch circle, and refers equally to bevel and other cog-wheels or rope or strap 
driving. 

A Pair of Mitre Wheels are bevels which have the same number of teeth, and which 
reverse the direction of the motion, consequently make no change in the speed. 

How to Compute the Velocities, etc., of toothed gears. The relative velocities of gears 
is as the number of their teeth. 

Where idle or intermediate gears intervene they are not reckoned. 

The Pitch of a Gear is the distance apart of the teeth from each other, and gears of un- 
equal pitch cannot run together. 

Bevel Gears are employed for shafts fixed at various angles, and running at different 
velocities, governed by the respective bevels, which may vary in size, as with spur gearing. 

N. B.— These rules are practically correct. Though, owing to the slip, elasticity, and thickness of the belt, the circurufereuce of the 
driven seldom runs as fast as the driver. 

Belts, like gears, have a pilch-line, or a circumference of uniform motion. This circumference is within the thickness of the belt, 
and must be considered if pulleys differ greatly in diameter, and a required speed is absolutely neccsiry. 



io8 

In computing the velocities of gear-wheels their diameters on the pitch line may be 
taken instead of the number of their teeth. 

The Pitch Line of a gear is a circle struck from the centre, and passing through the 
middle of the teeth. It defines the diameter of a gear, which is not, as many suppose, the 
whole distance across from point to point of teeth, but half way from bottom to top of teeth. 

To Measure the Diameter of a Gear it is only necessary to take the distance from the 
bottom of the teeth on one side to the top of the teeth on the opposite side of the gear. 

To Ascertain the Pitch of a Gear. — Find the diameter as above, then count the teeth, and 
divide their number by the diameter. 

Example. — If a gear of 21 teeth measures 3 inches diameter on the pitch line, then the 
gear is 7 pitch. 

Driving-Driven. — The manner of describing the driving wheel must also be applied to 
the driven. If the diameter of the driving wheel be taken, we must also use the diameter 
for the driven wheel, and neither the radius or circumference. 

Example 1. — An engine has a driving wheel 20 feet in diameter, revolving 40 times per 
minute, which drives, by means of ropes, a pulley on the second motion shaft 2 feet in 
radius. 

Question. — Ascertain the speed of the second motion shaft ? 

Two feet radius = 4 feet diameter, thus : 40 X 20 feet -s- 4 = 200. 

Answer. — 200 revolutions speed of the second motion shaft per minute. 

Example 2. — Speed of under shaft of a loom 80, the same carries a 10-teeth bevel, which 
gears with a 10 on an upright shaft at the top of which a 32-teeth wheel on a block of tappet 
wheels, is driven by an 8. 

Question. — Find the speed at which they revolve? 

80 X first driver, 10 X second driver, 8 -s- first driven 10 and second driven 32. 

80 X 10 = 800 X 8 = 6400 -f- 10 = 640 -*- 32 = 20. 

Ansiver. — 20 revolutions per minnte. 

How to Distinguish the Driver from the Driven Wheel. — If the gearing is in motion a 
glance will usually suffice to show this, since if a wheel is bright or worn on the front of the 
tooth, i. e., on the side in the direction of which the wheel is moving, it is the driver ; whereas 
the driven wheel is worn on the side of the tooth further from the direction of motion. , With 
reference to bands or straps, one side of the baud or strap is always tighter than the other 
since the driver is doing the pulling. 

How to Find the Speed of the Driving Wheel, when the speed of the last driven wheel and 
the size of the gearing are known. 

Rule. — Multiply the speed of the last driven wheel by the size of the driven wheels and 
divide by the size of the drivers. 

Example. — A spindle revolving 1,500 times per minute, is driven from a line shaft by a 
30 inch drum to a 10 inch pulley, which is fixed to a 10 inch tin roller driving the 1%. inch 
wharve of the spindle. 

Question. — Ascertain speed at which the Hue shaft will revolve ? 
The drivers being 30 and 10, and the driven 10 and 1%. 

1500 X 10 X 1% = 18750. 
18750 -5- 30 = 625 -s- 10 = 62.5. 
Answer. — 62^ revolutions per minute speed of line shaft. 



109 

How to Obtain the Size of the Driving Wheel the speed of the driven and driving shaft 
and the size of the driven pulleys being given. 

Rule. — Multiply the speed of the driven by the size of the driven pulleys, and divide by 
the speed of the driver. 

Example. — A shaft having a speed of 125 per minute, drives another at 100 per minute, 
on which is a 40-tooth bevel wheel. 

Question. — Ascertain the size of a bevel wheel on the driving shaft? 

100 X 40 -4- 125 = 32, 

Answer. — The bevel wheel on driving shaft has 32 teeth. 

How to Obtain the Size of the Driven Wheel if the speed of the driver and driven wheel or 
wheels are given and also the size of the driver. 

Rule. — Multiply the size of the drivers by the speed of the first driver, and divide by the 
speed of the driven, and by the driven pulleys given, if any. 

Example. — A shaft making 17 revolutions per minute carries a 15-tooth wheel, which 
drives a second shaft by means of a wheel the number of teeth in which it is des'red to find. 
On this shaft is a 120-tooth wheel driving one of 64 teeth, which latter revolves at 16 revolu- 
tions per minute. 

Question. — Required the size of the first driven wheel? 

Drivers 15 and 120. Driven 64. 

120 X 15X 174-15-64=: 30. 

Answer. — 30 teeth required in wheel. 

Worm Wheels. — As drivers only are usually single threaded and are equal to one tooth 
as a multiplier of speed, worm wheels are used to rapidly diminish speed. 

Example. — A worm wheel revolving 750 times per minute, drives a 150-tooth wheel. 

Question. — What is the speed of the latter? 

Answer. — 750 X 1 -*- 150 = 5 revolutions per minute. 

If the worm wheel had been double-threaded it would have taken two teeth at one revo- 
lution, and the result would have been 10, obtained thus : 750 X 2 -4- 150 = 10. 

A Mangle Wheel is a driven wheel only, and is used to reverse its own direction of 
motion. The speed for it is calculated as for an ordinary wheel, but since the tooth at each 
ena is used only once in a double revolution, (all the others being used twice) its size is taken 
as one tooth less than it actually is. 

Example. — A 12 pinion revolving 350 times in a minute, drives a mangle wheel of 140 
teeth or pegs. 

Question. — How many times will the mangle revolve in a minute? 

350 X 12 h- 140= 30. 

Answer. — 30 revolutions (equalling 15 in each direction) speed of mangle in a minute. 

How to Change the Speed of a Driven Pulley, Shaft or Wheel. 

Rule. — Increase the size of the driver or decrease the size of the driven pulley in exact 
proportion to the increase of speed required. 

To Increase the Speed by Increasing the Size of the Driver. 

Example. — A loom now running at 85 picks per minute is required to be changed to 95 
picks; the diameter of the present driving pulley on the line shaft of the weave room is 15 
inches. 



no 

Question. — Find size of new pulley required ? 

95 X 15 h- 85 = i6' r . 

Answer. — Size of new pulley required i6j|. 

To Increase the Speed by Decreasing the Size of Driven 'Wheel. 

Example. — The cams of a loom being set for eight-harness twill, it is desired to weave a 
six-harness twill, thus increasing the speed of the shaft carrying the cams in the proportion of 
6 to 8. The driven wheel on the shaft being an 80. 

Question — To what size must the driven wheel on the shaft be reduced ? 

80 X 6 -5- 8 = 60. 

Answer. — The driven wheel must be changed to a 60. 

How to Ascertain the Circumferential Velocity of a Wheel, Driver or Cylinder. 

Rule. — Multiply the circumference in feet by the number of revolutions per minute. 

Example. — A roller has a circumference of 4 feet and makes 12 revolutions per minute. 

Question. — Ascertain its circumferential velocity? 

4 X 12 = 48. 

Anszver. — Its circumferential velocity is 48 feet. 

How to Find the Speed of Last Shaft where several shafts and pulleys intervene. 
Rule. — Multiply all the drivers into each other and the product by the speed of the first 
shaft, divide this product by the product of all the given pulleys multiplied into each other. 

How to Ascertain the Number of Revolutions of the Last Wheel at the End of a Train 
of Spur Wheels, all of which are in a line and mesh into one another. 

Rule. — Multiply the revolutions of the first wheel by its number of teeth, and divide the 
product by the number of teeth of the last wheel ; the result is its number of revolutions. 

How to Ascertain the Number of Teeth in Each Wheel for a Train of Spur-Wheels, 
each to have a given velocity. 

Rule. — Multiply the number of revolutions of the driving wheel by its number of teeth, 
and divide the product by the number of revolutions each wheel is to make, to ascertain the 
number of teeth required for each. 

How to Find the Number of Revolutions of the Last Wheel of a Train of Wheels, 

and pinions, spurs, or bevels, when the revolutions of the first, or driver, and the diameter, or 
the number of teeth, or circumference of all the drivers and pinions, are given. 

Rule. — Multiply the diameter, the circumference, or the number of the teeth of all the 
driving wheels together, and this continued product by the number of revolutions of the first 
wheel, and divide this product by the continued product of the diameter, the circumference, 
or the number of teeth of all the pinions, and the quotient will be the number of revolutions 
of the last wheel. 

How to Straighten a Crooked Shaft. — Set the shaft on the blocks at each end, and 
under the hollow side make a fire, or apply sufficient heat to make the shaft hot. Now, with 
a swab, put water on the top, and the contraction will, by repeated operations, finally straighten 
the shaft 



Ill 



How to Cool a Hot Shaft.— Make a belt of something of a loose, water-absorbing 
lature, and hang it over the shaft as near the hot journal as possible, allowing it to hang 
down and run loose on the shaft. A pail of water may now be fixed so the lower part of the 
>elt will run in it, and in this simple way the shaft may be cooled while running. 

Another method consists in the use of black antimony and best castor oil ; you may, if 
you like, add a little black lead. Work it up nicely together and lay it on the shaft, first 
thick, and then taper down to nothing but the oil. 

Cooling Compound for Hot Bearings.— Mercurial Ointment mixed with black cylinder 
oil and applied every quarter of an hour, or as often as expedient. The following is also 
recommended as a good cooling compound for heavy bearings : — Tallow, 2 pounds, plumbago, 
6 ounces, sugar o'f lead, 4 ounces. Melt the tallow with a gentle heat, and add the other 
ingredients, stirring until cold. For lubricating gearing, wooden cogs, etc., nothing better 
need be used than a thin mixture of soft soap and black-lead. 

Steel and Iron. — To distinguish steel from iron pour on the object to be tested a drop of 
nitric acid ; let it act for one minute, then rinse with water. On iron the acid will cause a 
greyish-white, on steel a black stain. 

In case of wire, heat in the gas and dip in water ; if hard and brittle it is steel. 

How to Harden Cast Iron. — Heat the iron into cherry red, then sprinkle on it cyanide of 
potassium and heat it to a little above red ; then dip. The cyanide may also be used to case- 
harden wrought iron. 



BELTING. 

Rules for Calculating the Width for Leather Belting (single) required for given power. 
Multiply horse power with 33,000 and divide by velocity (in feet) of belt per minute and result 
is the tensional stress on belt ; allow for each inch in width a stress of 55 pounds and divide 
into the stress due to the horse power and given velocity, and the result is width of belt 
required. 

Example.— Horse power 75 X 33,000 = 2,475,000 pounds h- 2500 feet = 990 pounds 
(mean stress, both pulleys being same diameter) h- 55 = 19 inch, single belt required to 
transmit 75-horse power at 2500' per minute. The actual stress depends, however, entirely 
ou the relative diameters of the driving and of the driven pulley embraced by the belt ; the 
stress becomes less, the more the driven one is embraced (as the leverage of the driver in- 
creases) and vice-versa. 

Another Rule, but which only applies to the best quality of belting is thus : 

Multiply horse power by 7,000 -4- length in feet of that portion of the belt which clips 
smallest pulley and divide again by velocity in feet per minute. 

Exa?nple.— Wanted width of single belt to transmit 75-horse power indicated (smallest 
drum 8" diameter, belt clipping n' of the periphery). 

75-horse power X 7,000 = 525,000 -5- n' = 47,727 -f- 3,000' V. = 15.9 or 16 inches, 



112 



Table of Safe Actual Width of Single Belts to Transmit Given Power at Given 

Speeds, allowing for Leather of Very Indifferent Quality. 

N. B.— The body of the table gives the width of the belts in inches. 









INDICATED 


HORSE POWER. 










Speed 






















in feet per 


10 


20 


30 


40 


50 


60 


70 


80 


90 


100 


mm. 






















400 


20 


36 


48 


60 














600 


16 


32 


40 


50 


60 












800 


12 


20 


30 


42 


48 


60 










1000 


9 


18 


24 


35 


40 


50 


60 








1200 


8 


16 


20 


28 


34 


40 


50 


60 






1500 


7 


14 


iS 24 


28 


36 


44 


5° 


60 




1800 


6 


12 


16 


20 


24 


3° 


36 


44 


50 


60 


2400 


5 


10 


14 


18 


20 


24 


3° 


36 


44 


5° 


3000 


4 


8 


12 


15 


18 


20 


24 


• 28 


32 


36 



(For double belts about half the width of single.) 

To Find the Length of a Driving Belt Before the Pulleys are in Position. — Add the 
circumference of the two pulleys, divide the product by 2, and add the quotient thus obtained 
to double the distance between the centres of the two shafts, which will give the length of belt 
required. For a cross belt, add the circumference of the two pulleys, multiply the product by 
3, and divide by 2 ; the quotient added to double the distance between the centres of both 
shafts will give the length required. 

How to Find where to cut Belt-holes in Floors. — Measure the distance in inches from 
centre of driving shaft to underside of floor ; on the upper side make a mark over the centre 
of shaft. Now measure the distance from centre of shaft on machine to be driven to floor, 
making a mark on the floor immediately beneath the centre, then measure the distance 
between the two marks. Transfer these figures to a board or paper, draw off the driving and 
driven pulleys after finding their diameters, at the distance from each other and the floor line 
previously obtained, and draw the lines representing the belt cutting the floor line, which will 
show where the belt passes through the floor. The drawing can be made to a scale to reduce 
it to convenient dimensions, maintaining the proportions. The holes may now be marked 
off on the floor and cut with a certainty of being correct. In making the drawing it is best 
to make it full size on the floor, if room can be had ; and allowance must be made for the 
thickness of the flooring. 

HOW TO MANAGE BELTS. 

It is better for belts to relieve the strain upon them whenever they are out of use, as they 
last longer and pull better than if kept continually strained up. 

Machines requiring 3-h. p. and upwards to drive them should be from 16 feet to 25 feet 
between centre of driving and driven pulleys ; the length and width of belt, and diameter and 
width of pulleys to increase as the power required is greater. 

Avoid Belts made up of short lengths, varying in quality of leather, as they become 
crooked, causing trouble and expense. 

A Good Dressing for Leather Belts is to sponge them ou the outside with warm water, 
then rub in some dubbin. This done once every four or six weeks keeps the belts supple, 
and prevents them from cracking. 



"3 

Another good dressing may be made by the use of castor oil mixed about half and half 
with tallow or other good oil. Castor oil makes not only an excellent dressing, but renders 
the belts vermin proof. 

For Slipping Belts. — First cleanse the inside by brushing, and drop a few drops of castor 
oil on the inside of the belt, or the side next to the pulleys. 

By no means use resin for belts when slipping, as it hardens the belt, and causes it to 
crack. 

Belts made of India-rubber, with plies of strong canvas interposed between their lengths 
are best in cases were they become constantly wetted. 

A Good Diameter for Drums or pulleys is 5 to 6 times the width of belt. 

A Good Distance from centre to centre of drums is from 2 to 2% times the sum of their 
two diameters. 

A Pulley Covered with Leather, with the Hair Side of the Belt Turned to it, offers 50 per 
cent, more resistance to slipping than a pulley merely polished. When a belt is turned with 
the hair side to pulley, the contact is greater, from the fact of a more even surface being pre- 
sented, than when the flesh side is to the pulley ; and, again, as the outside of a belt must 
necessarily stretch more in bending over a pulley, it follows that if the hair side is the outer 
one it will finally crack ; but by reversing it, so that it must contract in wrapping around the 
pulley, it lays on with great smoothness, and the flesh side, being more open and irregular, 
experiences 110 difficulty or injury by the stretch from being outside. 

It is claimed, however, that, if belts are run with the flesh side to pulley, and tanner's 
dubbin applied thereto, they will become as smooth as the hair side, and will become more dur- 
able. It is also well to remember that the pliableness of a belt has often more to do with its 
adhesiveness to the pulley, than the question of which side shall be presented to it, and for 
that reason they should always be maintained as pliable as possible. 

It is reckoned that leather belts, grain or hair side to. the pulley, will drive 34 per cent, 
more than with flesh side to the pulley; 48 per cent, more than rubber; 121 per cent, more 
than gutta-percha ; and 180 per cent, more than canvas. 

Direction of Running. — Belts where it is possible should always run from the top of the 
driving to the top of the driven pulley. 

Belts always run to the high part of a pulley when the shafts are parallel ; but when they 
are not, the belt will always run toward the ends of the shafts which are nearest together, and 
this tendency is much stronger than to run to the highest part of the pulley. 

To Ascertain Length of a Roll of Strapping add inside and outside diameters in inches X 
number of coils X 0.1309 -5- 12" = length in feet. 

In Order to Preserve Belting in the best condition apply the following mixture while hot 
and thin, with a common hand brush while the belt is in motion, once every two or three 
months : 

Bee's wax 2-5ths. 

Castor oil 2-5ths. 

Resin i-5th. 

To Keep Ropes from Fraying. — Apply a cake of paraffin wax once a month for a few 
minutes while the ropes are running. 

The adoption of belt and rope driving has been greatly influenced by the number of 
breakdowns where gearing was used. 

Where rope or strap driving has not been introduced — these instances, however, are very 
few — cast-steel wheels have been generally substituted for the broken cast-iron ones. 



ii4 
WATER POWER. 

Velocity of Water: — To ascertain mean velocity of stream, find surface velocity by observ- 
ing rate of feet per minute with cork floats ; deduct 25 per cent, for friction and multiply by 
area in feet of cross section of river and product is discharge in cubic feet per minute = 
number of gallons. 

Water Power. 

English Rule : — (33,000 pounds raised 1 foot in 1 minute = 1 H. P. 

200 pounds of water (20 gallons) 3 feet fall per second =1 H. P. or 
60 gallons 1 foot fall per second = 1 H. P. Therefore : — 
1 ton 

224 gallons = 2240 lbs. X 3 feet X 60 seconds _ i2 2 H p calculated _ 

33,000 
minus 25 per cent, on account of turbine loss = 9.8 actual or effective H. P. 

French Rule : — (75 kilos raised 1 metre high in 1 second = 1 H. P.) Therefore, 

1 ton approx. 



1 cubic metre (1000 kilos or 1000 litres), 1 metre fall 1000 
litres X 1 metre fall X 60 seconds 

per second = = 13.33 H. P. calculated. 

75 X 60 seconds, 
minus 20 per cent, on account of turbine loss =10.67 effective H. P. 

6 metres fall of 1 cubic metre or \ 

1 " " .6 " > — ou£l.jt. (^ m i nus 20 per cent. 



6 " " 4 " 1 ._ „ p f turbine loss 



24 " " 1 " 



} 




STEAM POWER, 

For each nominal horse power a boiler should have : — 

1 cubic foot of water per hour (at least). 

1 square yard of heating surface. 

1 square foot of fire-grate area. 

1 cubic yard capacity. 

28 square inches flue area. 

1 pint water evaporates into 206 gallons of steam. 

1 gallon of water is converted into 1648 gallons of steam at the mean atmospheric pres- 
sure of 14.7 pounds per square inch. 

Nominal horse power of boiler = length in feet X diameter in feet. 

5 

To Ascertain the Chimney Area 

lb. of coal per hour X 12 . . , 

n — . . , . — r = ar ea in square inches. 

y height in feet 

To Prevent Incrustation to Boilers use nothing but common soda. Put a bucket full into 
the feed water supply tank once daily, or more, according to quantity and quality of the 
water used. 



"5 

To Ascertain the best Size of Injector for any given boiler, multiply the nominal horse 
power by io, which gives the number of gallons of water required per hour. 

To Find the Number of Cubic Feet of Exhaust Steam emitted from cylinder per minute — 
multiply area of piston (in square feet) by speed of piston in feet per minute. 

A Horse Power (H. P.) is equal to 33,000 pounds lifted one foot high in one minute or 
equivalent motion against resistance. 

To Find the Indicated Horse Power of an Engine : Multiply mean pressure in pounds per 
square inch on piston X the area of the piston in square inches X piston speed in feet per 
minute and the result is number of pounds engine will raise one foot high per minute. 
Divide by 33,000 for the indicated horse power, and deduct one-sixth for friction, which will 
theu be the effective horse power of the engine. 

To find the maximum efficiency of a theoretically perfect steam engine use the following 
T-T' 



Rule .- 



-of which 



T = absolute temperature of steam on admission—/, e. , temperature Fahrenheit + 450°- 
T' =absolute temperature of exhaust steam — i. <?., temperature Fahrenheit + 459°- 
E ^Maximum efficiency of theoretically perfect steam engine. 



HEAT. 

A Unit of Heat is the quantity of heat required to raise the temperature of 1 pound of 
water at or near its temperature of greatest density (31. 9 F.) through i° F. 

How to change degrees of Centigrade or Reaumur into degrees Fahrenheit and vice versa. 



F = Degrees Fahrenheit. C = Degrees 
Centigrade or Celsius. R = Degrees Reau- 
mur. 

Centigrade into Fahrenheit. 
p _ 9 X °C given 

5 6 

Exa7nple. — Find degrees F. for 40 C. 

40 X 9 = 360 -5- 5 = 72 + 32 = 104. 

Answer. — 40 C = 104 F. 

Reaumur into Fahrenheit. 

p _ 9 X °R given + ^ 

4 
Example. — Find degrees F. for 32 R. 

32 X 9 = 288 -*- 4 = 72 4- 32 == 104. 
Answer. — 32 R = 104 F. 

Fahrenheit into Celsius. 

q _ 5 X (degrees F. given — 32) 

9 
Example. — Find degrees C. for 104 F. 
5 X (104 — 32) 72 = 360 -s- 9 = 40. 
Answer. — 104 F = 40 C. 



Fahrenheit into Reaumur. 

R _ 4 X (degrees F given — 32) 

9 
Example. — Find degrees R. for 104 C. 
4 X (degrees F given — 32) 

9 

104 — 32 = 72 X 4 = 288 -*- 9 = 32. 
Answer. — 104 C — 32 F. 

Reaumur into Celsius. 

p _ 5 X degrees R given 
4 
Example. — Find degrees C.for 32° R. 

5 X 32 = 160 h- 4 = 40. 
Answer.— 2,2° R = 40 C. 

Celsius into Reaumur. 

R __ 4 X degrees C given 

5 
Example.— Find degrees R. for 40 C. 

4 X 4° = l6 ° ■+■ 5 = 32- 
Answer. — 40 C = 32 R. 



ARITHMETIC. 



Specially Adapted for Textile Purposes). 



ADDITION. 

Addition has for its object the finding of a number (called sum) equal to two, three, or more 
numbers. 

The symbol + (read plus) is used to indicate tbe operation of addition. The symbol = (read is 
equal to, or are) is the sign of equality. 

Example. — 3 + 4 + 7 yards=14 yards. 

If adding higher numbers than units place figures that represent units in each number in the same 
vertical line, those representing tens in the same vertical line and continue in this manner with the 
numbers representing hundreds, thousands, ten-thousands, hundred-thousands and millions. Next 
draw a horizontal line under the last number, and under this line place (in the same arrangement 
as to value of positions) the sum of the given numbers ; i. e., commencing to add the right-hand column, 
writing the units of the sum beneath, and adding the tens, if any, to the next column, and continue 
in this manner with all the columns until writing the entire sum of the last column. 



Examples. — 206 lbs. 




46 yards 


320 " 




230 " 


+54760 " 




4377 " 
+57698 " 


55286 lbs. 






62351 yards 


Question. — Find number of threads in pattern dressed : 




10 threads black. 




2 " blue. 




4 " brown. 




24 " black. 




+ 2 " 


blue. 





Answer. — 42 threads in pattern. 

Question. — Find total weight for the following lot of wool : 

960 lbs. Domestic. 
40 " Australian. 



Answer. — 



1000 lbs., total weight. 



SUBTRACTION. 



Subtraction is the process of taking away a number (called subtrahend) from a larger number 
(called minuend). The result of a subtraction is termed difference. 

The symbol — (read minus, or less) denotes the operation of subtracting. To prove a subtrac- 
tion, remember that the difference and subtrahend, added, must equal the minuend. 

Example.— 8 — 3 lbs. = 5 lbs. Proof.— 5 + 3 = 8. 

If subtracting higher numbers than units, write the subtrahend under minuend, placing units of 
the same order in the same column. Next draw a horizontal line under the subtrahend and begin 
to subtract with the units of the lowest order, and proceed to the highest, writing the result beneath. 

n6 



ii 7 

If any order of the minuend has less units than the same order of the subtrahend, increase its 
units by ten and subtract ; consider the units of the next minuend order one less, and proceed as 
before. 



Examples. — 4322 lbs. (minuend) 

—2111 " (subtrahend) 



4284 yards 
—3395 " 



2211 lbs. (difference). 889 yards. 

Question. — Weight of cloth required, 21 oz. ; weight from loom, 19 oz. Find difference. 

21 oz. 
—19 " 

2 oz. 
Answer. — The cloth in question is 2 oz. too light. 

Question. — The weight of a lot of wool in grease is 100 lbs.; its weight after being scoured and 
dried is 67 lbs. Find loss during scouring process. 

100 lbs. 
— 67 " 



33 lbs. 
Ansicer. — The lot of wool in question lost during scouring 33 lbs. 

Question. — Basis of cotton yarn, 840 yards per lb. ; basis of worsted yarn, 560 yards per lb. 
Fiud difference. 

840 yards. 
—560 " 



280 yards. 
Answer. — The worsted yarn basis is 280 yards less than the one for cotton yarns. 

MULTIPLICATION. 

Multiplication is the process of taking one number (called multiplicand) as often as another number 
(called multiplier) contains ones. The sum thus derived, or the result of a multiplication, is called the 
product or result. 

The symbol X (read multiplied, or times) denotes the operation for multiplying. 

Example. — Multiplicand. Multiplier. Product. 

4 X 3 = 12 

Proof.— 4 

4 

+ 4 

12 * 

If multiplying higher numbers than units, begin the process with the ones, and write the ones of 
the product reserving the tens if any. Next multiply the tens of the multiplicand, adding number of 
tens reserved from the previous process, write tens in place for tens in product and reserve (if any) the 
hundreds ; continue in this manner, always multiplying the next highest number of the multiplicand, 
adding number of same value (if any) from the previous part of the operation, until all the numbers of 
the multiplicand are taken up, writing in full the last operation. 

Example. — If weaving 212 yards of cloth in one day, how many yards will be woven, under the 
same circumstances, in 3 days? 212x3=636. 

Answer. — 636 yards. 



n8 

The product for multiplying a number by 10, is obtained by simply annexing to the multiplicand. 

Example.— 336 yardsX 10=3,360 yards. 

By annexing 00 to the multiplicand, we multiply the latter by 100; by annexing 000, with 
1000, etc. 

If required to multiply with a number having tens and zeros (0) for ones, we first multiply with 
the tens and annex to the result. 

Examples.— 36X30=1,080; 36X300=10,800; 36X3,000=108,000, etc. 

Remember that the multipler and multiplicand can change places, without altering the product ; 
thus, if zeroes are found in the multiplicand reverse factors so as to apply previously given rules. 

Example. — How many picks per hour does a loom make if running 85 picks per minute? 
1 hour=60 minutes; thus, 60X85=5,100. 

Answer. — The speed per hour is 5,100 picks. 

If the multiplier contains two parts, for example 5 and 60 (or 65), multiply the multiplicand first 
with the units (5 in example) and afterwards with the tens, using zero for ones (60 in example). Iu 
setting down this second result omit the zero, as it has no effect on the addition to be performed. 

Example. — If one loom produces 235 yards of cloth in one week, how many yards will 23 looms 
produce in the same time and on the same work ? 

oqiwoq n 235 X 3= 705 235x23 

235 X 23 Thus : m x 2Q= ^ or, ^g-=- (235 x g) 

470 = (235X20) 

5405 

5405 
Answer. — 23 looms will produce 5,405 yards per week. 

If the multiplier is made up of three parts, multiply with the units and tens as before, next the 
hundreds, using zeros for tens and units, but omitting both zeros in setting down the third result. For 
similar reasons any future value of figures in the multipler requires corresponding increase of zeros not 
set down in the respective result. 

Example. — 783X233 



2349 =(783 X 3= 2349). 

2349 =(783 X 30= 23490). 

1566 =(783X200=156600). 



Answer.— 182439 

In some instances we are requested to find the continued product of three, four, or more numbers. 
In such instances multiply the first two numbers, and multiply product derived with the third, etc. 

Example. — Find number of yards of filling wanted to weave 32 yards cloth, 72 inches wide in 
loom, 45 picks per inch. Thus: 32X72X45. 

32 X 72=2,304 X 45=103,680 
Answer. — 103,680 yards of filling are wanted. 

Some examples call for a number to be multiplied by itself once, twice, three times, or oftener. If 
so, the resulting products are called the second, third, fourth, etc., powers of the number. The pro- 
cess is termed involution, and the power to which the number is raised is expressed by the number of 
times the number has been employed as a factor in the operation. The raising of a number to the 
second power is called square ; the raising to the third power being termed cube. Thus : 

16 is the square of 4, because 4X4=16 
64 " « cube " 4, " 4X4X4=64 



ii9 

DIVISION. 

Division is the process by which we find how many times one number (called divisor) is contained 
into another (called dividend) The quotient is the result of a division, and the part of the dividend not 
containing the divisor an exact number of times, is called the remainder. 

The symbol of division is -s- (read divided by), and is written between the dividend and divisor; 
for example, 8-7-4; but is also frequently substituted, either by writing the divisor at the left of the 
dividend with a curve, for example, 4)8, or by writing the divisor under the dividend, both num- 
bers to be separated by a horizontal line. 

8 
For example, — Dividend. Divisor. Quotient. 

8 -f- 4 = 2 

Example. — If dividing higher numbers than units, find how many times the divisor is con- 
tained in the fewest left-hand figures of the dividend that will contain it ; write answer as the first 
number of the quotient. Next multiply this number by the divisor ; subtract the product from the 
partial dividend used, and to the remainder annex the next dividend figure for a second partial divi- 
dend. Divide and proceed as before, until all the numbers of the dividend are called for, writing the last 
remainder (if there is one left), with the divisor under it (as common fraction), as a part of the quotient. 

Example. — Find number of repeats of pattern in the following warp : 
3,904 threads in warp. 32 threads in pattern. 
3904 -=-32=122 
32 

70 
64 



64 
64 
Answer. — In the warp given in the example there are 122 repeats of pattern. 
Remember that the dividend is the product of the divisor and the quotient ; hence, use this as proof 
for the division in question. 

Divisor. Quotient. 

32 X 122 = 3,904 (Dividend.) 



64 

64 
32 

3904 
If we have to divide a number by ten, simply insert a decimal point between the last two figures 
(toward the right) in the dividend, thus expressing at once the quotient. 

Example. — 4,220 end in warp, dressed with 10 sections. Find number of ends used in each section. 

4,220h-10=422.0, or 
Answer. — 422 ends are used in each section. 

If the divisor is hundred, thousand, or more, always move the decimal point correspondingly one 
more point toward the left in the dividend, so as to get the quotient. 

Example. — 125 lbs. of filling must weave 100 yards of cloth, how many pounds must be used 
per yard, to weave up all this filling? 

125-5-100=1.25 
Answer. — 1^ lbs. yarn must be used per yard. 



120 

Dividing or multiplying the dividend and the divisor by one number does not alter the quotient ; 
thus, if the divisor contains zeros for either units, units and tens, units, tens and hundreds, etc., we can 
shorten the process by throwing out such zeros and reducing the dividend correspondingly, by simply 
placing a decimal point in its proper place. 

Example. — 4,905 threads in warp, 30 threads in pattern. Find number of repeats of pattern in warp. 

4905h-30=490.5-^3P=163.5 
3 

19 
18 

10 
9 

15 

15 

Answer. — There are 163| repeats of patterns in warp. 

Previous example also explains the multiplying of both the dividend and the divisor (without 
altering the proper quotient) towards the close of the division, when 1.5 is to be divided by 3. 

1.5 X 10 = 15 1 

~3~X10 = 30 ° r T ° r0 - 5 - 

PARENTHESIS OR BRACKETS. 

A parenthesis (expressed by symbol ( ) ), is used in calculations for enclosing such numbers as 
must be considered together. Hence, the whole expression which is enclosed is affected by the symbol 
preceding or following the parenthesis. 

Hence, (18x4)-h(4x2)=72-^8=9; whereas without parenthesis example would read as follows: 
18x4-=-4x2=(18X4=72-=-4=18x2=) 36 

If the main operation, as in the present example, is a division, we may use in the place of the 

parenthesis, the vinculum (expressed by symbol ), writing the dividend above the line, and the 

18x4 
divisor below ; thus, previously given example would read . „ = 9 

240-^(7 + 4x2) means that twice the sum of 7+4 equal 22 is to be divided into 240. It might 

i i. ' i. • 240 

also nave been written „ . „ 

(3X4 — 2)X(6X9+4)+43 means: Subtract 2 from the product of 3 multiplied by 4, and multiply 
the remainder (10) by the sum of 6 multiplied by 9, plus 4 (58), and add to the product (10X58=580) 
thus obtained 43, which gives 623 as the result or answer. 

Frequently brackets are made to inclose one another, if so, remove the brackets one by one, com- 
mencing by the innermost. 

Example.— (2+5X(4+82)+8)X(3+10). 

(2+5X 86 +8)X(3+10). 
( 7 X 86 +8) X (3+10). 
( 602 +8)X(3+10). 

610 X 13 

Answer.— (2+5X(4+82)+8)X(3+10)=7,93a 



121 

Example.— (3x(6 + 9-5-2X(4x8)+8) )X2. 

(3X(6+9-5-2x 32 + 8))X2. 

(3X( 248 ))X2. 

744 X2. 

Answer.— (3X(6-f 9h-2x(4X8)+8) )X2=1,488. 

PRINCIPLE OF CANCELLATION. 

18 X4 
Example given in previous chapter on brackets we will also use to explain the subject of 

4 X ^ 

cancelling or shortening calculations. The rule for this process is : Strike out all the numbers common 
to both dividend and divisor, and afterward proceed as required by example. 

18X4 18X4 _ 18 
4X2 ' " 4-X2 2 " . ~ * 

Another point for cancellation is to ascertain if a number in the dividend and in the divisor have 
the same common factor. 

2 
Example.- 36X9 £6x9 2X9 

18X5 ~ J£x5 ~ 1X5 ~ 18 : 5 _ * 
1. 



Proof.- 36X9 = 324 = ^ ^_ ^ = ^ 



18X5 — 90 27Q 

54 I _6_ I _3_ 
90 I 10 I 5 

54-5-9=6-^2=3 

For reducing fractions to their lowest denomination as in previous example oTT^o 10-^-2— 5~ 

as well as for assisting the student quickly to find the same common factor for two numbers, we give 
herewith rules by which he can quickly ascertain if a number is exactly divisible by 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 
9, 10 or 11. 

If the last figure of the number is either zero or an even digit, such a number is exactly divisible by 2. 

Examples.— 420-5-2=210, 336-5-2=168. 

If the sum of the figures is divisible by 3, such a number is exactly divisible by 3. 
Example.— 38,751-5-3=12,917. 

If the last two figures of a given number are divisible by 4, such a number is exactly divisible by 4. 
Example.— 396,564-1-4=99,141. 

If the last digit in a number is either or 5, such a number can be exactly divided by 5. 
Examples.— 320-5-5=64, 38,745-5-5=7,540. 

When the last three figures of a number are divisible by 8, such number can be divided by 8 
Example.— 376,256-5-8=47,032. 

A number is exactly divisible by 9, when the sum of its digits is divisible by 9. 
Example.— 887,670-5-9=98,630. 

A number is exactly divisible by 11, when the difference between the sum of the digits in the 
uneven places (commencing with the units) and the sum of the digits in the even places, is either zero 
or divisible by 11. 

Example.— 514,182,746-5-11=46,743,886. 



122 

COMMON FRACTIONS. 

A common fraction is a fraction in which we write the numerator above, and the denominator 
below, the dividing ( — or / ) line. 

Example.- j = Z2^££25- } Both being the terms of the fraction. 

The horizontal dividing line is the one most frequently used, but the oblique (%) answers the 
same purpose. 

The denominator of a fraction indicates in how many equal parts the unit is divided ; and the 
numerator shows how many of those parts are taken. 

There are two kinds of fractions : 

(a) Proper Fractions, which have for their terms a numerator which is less than the denominator. 
For example, I, I, ?, etc. 

(6) Improper Fractions, which have for their terms a numerator, which is greater than the 
denominator. For example, f, I, i, etc. 

An improper fraction can be changed to a mixed number by dividing the numerator by the 
denominator, setting down the quotient as the integral part, and making the remainder the numerator 
of the fractional part of the mixed number, whose denominator is the denominator of the original 
fraction. 

An integer (= whole number) can be expressed as an improper fraction, without reducing its 
value, for example, 6=f, 8=f, etc. The combination of an integer and a fraction is termed a mixed 

number. For example, 7f ( 7 f — '" nerator \ 

^ c 4 Denominator. / 

A mixed number can be changed to an improper fraction by multiplying the integer by the de- 
nominator of the fraction, adding to the product the numerator of the fraction. This sum is the nu- 
merator of the improper fraction of which the denominator is the denominator of the given fraction. 

2X7-I-4 
Example. — 2} = - — = V improper fraction. 

A fraction is expressed in its lowest terms (i. e., cannot be reduced) when the numerator and de- 
nominator have no common factor except unity, or in other words, when both terms are not dividable 
by any number except one. For example. j\ , f, etc. 

Thus, to reduce a fraction to its lowest terms, use 

Rule. — Divide the numerator and the denominator by their highest common factor. 

The highest common factor of a fraction is the highest number which will exactly divide each of 
the terms of a fraction ; for such small numbers, as are generally used for fractions, the highest com- 
mon factor is found at a glance. For example : f . Readily the student will see that both the 6 and the 
8 can be divided by 2. Thus : f ,-s- 2 = I, or f = !. 

If dealing with large numbers, the highest common factor cannot always be determined by inspec. 
tion, but is found by 

Rule. — Divide the higher number of the fraction by the lower, and the latter (the divisor of the 
first operation) by the remainder ; continue the process until no remainder is left, the divisor used last 
being the highest common factor for the fraction. 

Example. — Reduce to its lowest terms lilt; i. e., find the highest common factor for 2166 and 
and 2888, by previously given rule. 



123 



2166)2888=1 
2166 



722)2166= 
2166 



• or, 722 is the highest common factor. ' ' - 

2,888 -i-iZZ — 4 



Answer. — Ml! expressed in its lowest terms equals J 

Frequently we must change a given fraction to terms of a known denominator ; if so, proceed as 
follows : Divide the required denominator by the denominator of the given fraction and multiply by 
the quotient thus obtained with both terms of the given fraction. 

Example. — Change A to equivalent fraction expresseed in 60's. 

, 5 X 5 = 25 
60^-12=5 and F2 x 5 = To 

Answer. — A equals M in value. 

If two fractions are to be changed to equivalent fractions (fractions having the same denominator) 
find the lowest common multiple (see * below for explanation for lowest common multiple) for the two 
given denominators, which is the new denominator for each fraction. Next find the new numerators 
for both fractions, by means of previously given method for changing a given fraction to terms of a 
known denominator. This rule also applies for three or more fractions. 

Example. — Change I and f to equivalent fractions, having the same denominator. 
4X7 (prime numbers) == 28, new denominator. 
28 -=- 4 = 7 28 -h 7 = 4 





3 X 7 = 21 


5 X 4 = 20 




4X7 =28 


7 X 4 = 28 


Answer. — 


1 = ft and * = H. 





Example. — Change I, I and f to equivalent fractions, having the same denominator. 
3X4X7 (prime numbers) = 84, new denominator. 

84 ~ 3 = 28 84 -T- 4 = 21 84 -t 7 = 12 

_2 X 28 = 56 _3_X21 = 63 5_ X 12 =J50 

3 X 28 = 84 4 X 21 = 84 7 X 12 = 84 

Answer.— f = tt I = II » = *i 

* The lowest common multiple of two or more numbers is the lowest number which is exactly 
dividable by each of them, and is obtained for two numbers by dividing one of the numbers by the 
highest common factor, and multiplying the quotient by the other number. If numbers are prime, their 
product is the lowest common multiple. 

If we have to find the lowest common multiple of three or more numbers, find the lowest common 
multiple of any two, next find the lowest common multiple of the resulting number, and of a third, 
of the original numbers, and so on, the final result being the lowest common multiple wanted. 

ADDITION OF COMMON FRACTIONS. 

Only fractions having the same denominators can be added ; thus, change fractious given to 
equivalent fractions having the lowest common denominator. Next add the numerators of the equiva- 
lent fractions and place the result as the numerator of a fraction whose denominator is the common 
denominator of the equivalent fractions. 



124 



Example. — Find sum of I and I oz. 

24-=-8= 3 24-=-3= 8 

1 y'}^: 3 1X8=8 

8X3=24, lowest common denominator. — -^ -qz, Q 57- &+& = H 

■ o Xo — ^4 0X8 — ^4 

jlnsioer. — I oz. -(- 5 oz. = H oz. 

Example. — Find sum of A, is and tV inches. 

The lowest common denominator of 20, 15 and 10 is 60, since 

60 -^20 = 3 60 -h15 = 4 60 -h10 = 6 

J3 X 3=_9 ^ X 4 =J16 J_ x 6 = J3^ 

20 X 3 = 60 15 X 4 = 60 10 X 6 = 60 
Answer. — -is + A + tV = 11 inches. 

Example. — Find the total yards for the following three pieces of cloth containing respectively 3 rV> 
8 A, and 108i% yards. 

The lowest common denominator of 16 and 20 is 80, since 80-^16=5 and 80h-20=4. 



9 I 1 6 I 6 
Sff + STF + Sir 



J_X5 35 hug . 3A = 3f | 
16 X 5 80' 



2X5 10 ., 

— = — ., thus: 

16X5 80' 



4X4 16 ., 
. — = — , thus : 
20 X 4 80' 



108& = 1081! 



+ ft 



(lOl -=- 6 3) 



3tt + 8tt + 108H = 119H 
Answer. — The total yards for the three pieces cloth given in question are 119!^ yards. 
If the sum derived is an improper fraction, the same can be changed (if required) to a mixed 

number, by dividing the numerator by the denominator, the quotient obtained being the integer. 

The remainder is the numerator of the fraction which has the given denominator of the improper 

fraction for their denominator. 

Example. — Find sum of f and % lb. 

The lowest common denominator of 7 and 9 is 63, since 63-f-7=9, and 63^-9=7. 

• ^X 9 =i_ 5 andl X7== 56 

7x9 = 63 9X7 = 63 

Answer.— fib. + ? lb. = W, or 111 lbs. 

Previously given rule also applies if adding improper fractions. 

Example. — Find sum of ! and J yards. 

The lowest common denominator of 5 and 3 is 15, since 15-r-3=5, and 15-^5=3. 
8X3 = 24 ^7_ X 5 = 35 

TX3 = 15 3X5 = 15 

Answer. — 1 yard -f I yard = 3rl yards. 

If adding mixed numbers, first add the fractions ; if their product is a proper fraction, reduce the 
same to their lowest equal terms ; but if an improper fraction, change the same to a mixed number 
and put the fraction part down for the fraction of the sum. Next add the integral parts of the given 
mixed numbers plus the integral part from the addition of the fractions. 

Example. — Find the sum of 31, 41 and 2\ inches. 

The lowest common denominator of 3, 8 and 7 is 168, since 168-^3=56 ; 168-=-8=21 ; 168-^7=24. 

3f(fXli)=3HI 

262-M68=lfi 

+ 9 



» + 



(.•-e-i»)=31 



4f(fxU)=4iff 
2K*Xi*)=2J& 

+ 



9«}= 



9ftt 



ion 



Answer. — 



31 -f- 4f -f 2\ inches = 1011 inches. 



125 

SUBTRACTION OF COMMON FRACTIONS. 

Only fractions having the same denominator can be subtracted ; thus, change fractions given to 
equivalent fractions having the lowest common denominator. Next deduct the numerator of the 
.smaller of the equivalent fractions from the numerator of the greater fraction. The difference place 
as the numerator of a fraction whose denominator is the common denominator of the equivalent) 
fraction. This fraction is the difference of the given two fractions (can be reduced to its lowest 
terms by previously given rule). 

Example. — Find the difference between S and ?. 

The lowest common denominator of 8 and 7 is 8X7, or 56 ; and 56-^8=7 ; 56-r-7=8. 
6 X 7 = 42 2 X 8 = 16 n „ „ „ 

■ 55 55 = 55 = Z5 

8X7= 56 7X8= 56 

Answer. — I — ? = H. 

Example. — Find the difference between the weight of two pieces of cloth weighing respectively 
23f and 201 lbs. The lowest common denominator of 7 and 9 is 7 X 9 or 63. 

63 -§- 7 = 9 63 -s- 9 = 7. 

23? = 23st 
201 = 20H 



3H lbs. 
Answer. — The difference between the two pieces of cloth given in example is SU lbs. 

Previously given rule also applies, if dealing with improper fractions. In some instances we may 
have to deduct a fraction or a mixed number in which the value of the fraction of the subtrahend is 
greater than the one of the minuend. If so, we must change the fraction by adding one unit of the 
integer (changed to a fraction of the same denominator) to the fraction of the minuend. 

Example. — Find the difference between the weight of two pieces of cloth weighing respectively 
28? and 281 ounces. The lowest common denominator of 7 and 8 is 8 X 7, or 56. 

281=2815=2711 
22f=22|f=225l 

5||, or 5ff oz. 
Answer. — The difference in weight between the two pieces of cloth, given in example, is 5if ozs. 

MULTIPLICATION OF COMMON FRACTIONS. 

A fraction is multiplied by an integer, by multiplying the numerator of the fraction by the integer 
and leaving the denominator of the fraction unchanged, or divide the denominator of the fraction by 
the integer and leave the numerator unchanged. 

Example. — Multiply I with 2. 

Or, — X 2 = 3 = iL 

8 8-h2 4 

Example. — If 1 lb. filling weaves f yards cloth, how many yards will 26 lbs. weave ? 

5 x26 = 5x26 = 130 )Orl30 ^ 8=16i 

o o o 

Answer. — 26 lbs. filling will weave 16^ yards cloth. 



126 

A fraction is multiplied by a fraction by writing the product of the numerators over the product 
of the denominators. The product thus divided change either to a fraction of the lowest term, or, if 
an improper fraction to a mixed number. 

Example. — Multiply A by A inches. 

A v A 3X4 ft X 4 4 _4_ 

13 15 13X15 - 13x;p " 13X5 65 

5 
Answer. — A X A = A. 

Example. — Multiply I by 2f. 

1 X 2f = * X 17 7X17 = £xl7 = 17 or 17 ^ 8 

8X7 8X7 8X/T 8 * 

Example. — If one pound of filling weaves I yards of cloth, how many yards will 38| lbs. filling 
weave. 

f x 38!= (I X 4 1 ) = 5X155 = 775-=-32=24A 
' 8X4 

Answer. — 38f lbs. of filling will weave 24A yards. 

Previously given rules also apply to improper fractions. In the application of the rules to mixed 
numbers, change the latter to their equivalent value in improper fractions and proceed as in the fore- 
going example. 

Example. — Find square inches for a sample cut to the rectangular shape of 31X41 inches. 
(Mixed numbers.) (Improper fractions.) "~| 



31 , = ¥ 



17 25 = 17_X^ = 17X1 = 85 ^ 85 _^ 14i 
5 6 X 6 6 6 

4i = Y 

Answer. — The surface of the sample in question is (31 X4s) 14 J inches. 
DIVISION OF COMMON FRACTIONS. 

A fraction is divided by an integer by multiplying the denominator of the fraction by that num- 
ber, leaving the numerator unchanged; or by dividing the numerator of the fraction by the integer, and 
leaving the denominator unchanged. 

Example. — (Fraction -=- Integer.) Divide i by 2. 

A -- 2 = 4 A = A or A - 2 =- i^A A 

9 = 9X2 : = 18 : 9' ° r 9 9 9 

Answer. — t -*- 2 = I. 

Example. — | lb. of filling weave 3 yards cloth, ascertain amount used per yard 

7_ _,_ o _ J___ _7_ 
8 8X3 ; 24 

Answer. — The amount of filling used per yard, is A lb. 

If we have to divide an integer by a fraction, we must change the integer to a fraction, and use 
the same rule as given next for 



127 
Dividing Fractions by Fractions. 
Rule, — Invert the divisor and proceed as in multiplication of fractions. 
Example. — (Fraction -=- Fraction). Divide H by A. 

5 
11 . 3 „. 11 15 .. 11 tf _ 11X5 _ 55 7 

I2^T5~T2 X T-T2 X T 12 12 

-dnswer. — ii -f- A = 4 A. 

iVoo/ — The product of the quotient and the divisor must equal the dividend, thus : 

11 1 

4A X A = 12 X f5 = 7 ^ ? ^ -4X3- " ° r 

4 3 
4A X A = H» tne same as \\ -s- A = 4A 
Example (Integer-=-Fraction). Divide 8 by I. 

8-3 8 . 3 _ 8 9 8X? _ 8X3 _ 

8 "" f - T ^ "9" _ T X T 1X3 1 

Answer. — 8 -=- f ^= 24. 

In the application of the rules for mixed numbers, change the latter to an improper fraction, and 
proceed as in the foregoing examples. 

Example. — (Mixed Number h- Fraction. Divide 91 by I. 

Q3 , 75 7 75 9 75X9 675 

Answer. — 9f -f- J = 12 A. 

Example. — (Mixed Number -— Mixed Number). Divide 4J by If. 

3 
4i + U- 39 . li_39 ^_i£X_9 _ 27 _ 
4 "8 ^ 9 - 8 X 13 - 8 XJ3 - 8 ~ dt 

Answer. — 4$ -5- 1§ = 3t. 

DECIMAL FRACTIONS. 

A decimal fraction is a fraction whose unit is divided into tenths, hundreths, thousandths, ten- 
thousandths, hundred thousandths, etc. and is expressed without a denominator by means of the decimal 
point. 

Value of decimal fractions commonly termed decimals. 



o B -S S -S . 

? j ', = i | 5 

8 •£ t3 B 5 -t3 2 

8 g 5 i S = 3 

a h X H H X s 

.123456 (.1234 5 6) and so on, each digit decreasing tenfold advancing to the right. 

Above number reads : One hundred twenty-three thousand four hundred fifty-six millionths. 

The denominator of a decimal fraction (which as already mentioned, is not put down, but 
indicated by the decimal point) is 1 plus as .many zeros annexed as there are places in the fraction. 
Hence : .4 reads, 4 tenths, A. 

.73 seventy-three hundredths, AV. 
.821 eight hundred twenty-one thousandths, AVs, etc. 



128 

Some parties also use a zero one point to the left to indicate that the fraction contains no integer 
parts; thus, foregoing fractions may also be written 0.4, 0.73, 0.821, without changing their value 
or their reading. 

Zeros affixed to a decimal do not change its value. 

Hence, .38=.380=.3800, etc., 0.693=0.6930=0.69300 etc. 

Mixed numbers are made up of an integer and a decimal. For example : 3.25 read, three and 
twenty-five hundredths. 347.3 reads, three hundred forty-seven and three tenths. 1873.472 reads, 
one thousand eight hundred seventy-three and four hundred and seventy two thousandths. 

To change a decimal fraction to common fraction of equivalent value, omit the decimal point and 
write the proper denominator as explained previously, next change the fraction to its lower terms. 

Example. — Change .25 to a common fraction. 

2*5 = — "*■ 25 i- 
" 100 -h 25 4 

Answer. — .25 equals J. 

Example. — Change 43.625 to a mixed number having a common fractional part. 

43.625=43fWfc=(rffo-s-iIi=*) 431. 
Answer. — 43.625 equals 431. 

To change a common fraction to a decimal fraction, add decimal ciphers to the numerator, divide 
by the denominator, and point off as many decimal figures in the quotient as there are ciphers annexed. 

Example. — Change 43| to a decimal. 



Example 


— Change \ to a 
1.00-^-4=0.25 


decimal. 




10 
8 








20 
20 






Answer.- 




£ equals 


.25 or 0.25. 



1=5.000-4-8= 



=0.625. 



50 
48 



20 
16 

40 
40 



Answer. — 



43.000 
-f 0.625 

43.625 



431 equals 43.625. 



If the division does not terminate, or has been carried as far as necessary, the remainder may be 
expressed in the result as a common fraction, or may be rejected if less than J, or unimportant, and the 
incompleteness of the result marked at the right of the fraction by -f-. If \, or more than J, the last 
digit of the decimal may be made to express one more. 

Example. — Change ts to a decimal. 

7.000-^9=0.777+ 

70 

63 

70 
63 

70 
63 



Answer. — 



& = 0.777S, or ft =0.777+, or ft = 0.778. 



129 

» 

ADDITION OF DECIMAL FRACTIONS. 

Rule. — Place the decimals to be added one under another, decimal point under decimal point. Next 
add the figures as if dealing with whole numbers, and place the decimal point for the sum under the 
others. 

Example.— Add 0.22, 0.384, and 0.054. 

0.220 

0.384 

+ 0.054 



0.658 
Answer.— 0.22 + 0.384 + 0.054 = 0.658. 

If the numbers to be added be mixed numbers, place integers in front of the decimals, in their 
proper position, and proceed as before. 

Example.— Add 3468.12; 483.39; 27.0003 and 3.18 

3468.1200 

483.3900 

27.0003 

+ 3.1800 



3981.6903 
Answer.— 3468.12 + 483.39 + 27.0003 + 3.18 = 3981.6903. 

Find total cost of a piece of cloth in which the value of the warp is $22.32; of the filling, $16.02; 

of the selvage, $0.64, and (general) manufacturing expenses are $5.00. 

$22.32 

16.02 
... Answer. — The total cost of the piece of cloth in question is $43.98. 

-f 5.00 

$43.98 

SUBTRACTION OF DECIMAL FRACTIONS. 

Rule. — Place the subtrahend below the minuend, keeping the different values of positions under 
each other, also point under point. Next subtract as if dealing with whole numbers, and place 
decimal point for the difference under point of the subtrahend. 

Example.— Subtract 0.27 from 0.473 

0.473 
_0 970 Answer.— 0.473 — 0.270 = 0.203. 



0.203 

If dealing with mixed numbers, place integers in front of the decimals, in their proper place, and 
proceed as before. 

Example. — Find cost of filling in a cut of cloth in which the value of warp and filling is $56.32, 
and the value of the warp is $32.19 

$56.32 
— 32.19 



$24.13 
Answer. — The value of the filling in example is $24.13 



i3° 



MULTIPLICATION OF DECIMAL FRACTIONS. 

Rule. — Multiply as if dealing with whole numbers, and point off in the product a number of 
decimal places equal to the sum of the number of decimal places in both factors. If there are not 
figures enough in the product, prefix the deficiency with zeros, and put the point on the left of these 
factors. Whole number* and mixed numbers are dealt with alike. 

Example.— Multiply 0.26 by 0.35. 
0.26 X 0.35 



130 

78 

910 



Four decimal places are in both factors ; hence 
Answer.— 0.26 X 0.35 = 0.0910, or 0.091. 



Example.— Multiply 4.32 by 2.81. 
4.32 X 2.81 



432 
3456 
864 

12.1392 



Four decimal places in factors ; hence 
Answer.— 4.32 X 2.81 = 12.1392. 



Example. — Ascertain value of 432 lbs. of wool, costing $1.31 per lb. 
432 X 1.31 



432 
1296 
432 



Answer. — The value of the lot of wool in question is $565.92. 



565.92 

DIVISION OF DECIMAL FRACTIONS. 

Rule, — If the dividend is a mixed number, or a fraction, and the divisor an integer, divide as if 
dealing with whole numbers, and mark off in the quotient as many decimal places as there are decimal 
places in the dividend. 



Example.— Divide 39.42 by 2. 
39.42 h- 2 = 19.71 
2 

19 

18 



14 
14 



002 
2 



Example. — Divide 0.84 by 4 
0.84 -r- 4 = 0.21 



04 
4 







Answer. — 



0.84 



0.21. 





Answer.— 39.42 -i- 2 =19.71. I 

Rule.— If the divisor is a decimal, change to a whole number by moving the decimal point a suf- 
ficient number of places to the right, annexing zeros if required, and then divide as if dealing with 
integers. If the dividend is an integer, the quotient will be an integer; and if the dividend is a deci- 
mal, the quotient will be a decimal of the same order. 



I.1I 



Example.— Divide 0.921 by 0.033. 
0.924 h- 0.033 = 924 -4- 33 -= 28 
fid 



26 I 
264 



Here the quotient is an integer, because the 
dividend is an integer; hence 

Answer.— 0.924 -4- 0.033 = 28. 



Example.— Divide 38.76 by 10.2. 
38.76 -4- 10.2 = 387.6 h- 102 = 3.8 
306 



816 
816 



In this instance the dividend is a decimal of 
the first order; hence, the quotient is a decimal of 
the first order, therefore 

Answer.— 38.76 h- 10.2 = 3.8 



Example.— Divide 3.876 by 10.2. 




3.876 -4- 10.2 = 38.76 -4- 102 = 


.38 


306 




816 




816 





Here the dividend is a decimal of the second 
order ; thus the quotient correspondingly also a 
decimal of the second order; therefore 



Ansioer. 



3.876 -h 10.2 = 0.38 



Example.— Divide 0.0924 by 3.3 



0.0924 -4- 3.3 



0.924 -4- 33 = 0.028 
66 



264 
264' 

Here the dividend is a decimal of the third 
order, thus the quotient also a decimal of the 
third order, hence : 

Answer.— 0.0924 -h 3.3 = 0.028 



If the divisor does not terminate, or has oeen carried as far as necessary, the remainder may be 
expressed as a common fraction being part of the quotient, or may be rejected if less than \ or unim- 
portant, and the incompleteness of the result marked at the right of the fraction by -f-, or if the 
remainder is \ or more, the last digit of the decimal may be made to express one more. 



Example. — Divide 409.6 by 8.5 to three deci- 



mals. 



409.6 h- 8.5 



.4096 
340 

696 
680 



85 = 48.188 



160 
85 



750 
680 

700 
680 



20 



Answer.— 409.6-4-8.5=48.188!2=48.188Aor 
409.6-4-8.5=48.188+ or 
409.6-^8.5=48.188 



Example.— I? 437f lbs. wool cost $529.67f 
what will one pound cost? 

529.67fn-437.75 or 52967.75-^-43775=1.21 
43775 



91927 
87550 

43775 
43775 



Answer. — The value of one pound of wool 
given in example is $1.21 



i3 2 



SQUARE ROOT. 

The square root of a given number is such a number which, being multiplied by itself, will 
produce the given number. Hence, the square root of 36 is 6, because 6X6 (or the square of 6) is 36. 

The symbol j/~ ~~ or f/~ ~ placed at the left of a number denotes that the square root of that 
number is to be taken ; hence, V 49 reads : take the square root of -19, which is 7, since 7 X 7=49. 

The square root of a number contains either twice as many figures as the root, or twice as many 
less one. For example : 

V 64 = 8 (since 8X8= 



_£*J\ 2 figures in square. 



i figure in root. 



V 100 =10 (since 10X10=100) JgSSjK* 

A small figure 2 placed to the right and above a number is the symbol that the square of that 
number is to be taken, hence 4 2 denotes the square of 4 or 4X4=16. 

A number which has a whole number for its square root is termed a perfect square, and such 
perfect squares, not greater than 100, must be committed to memory ; i. e., 2 2 =4, 3 2 =9, 4 2 =16, 
5 2 =25, 6 2 =36, 7 2 =49, 8 2 =64, 9 2 =81, 10 2 =100. An imperfect square is a number whose root 
cannot be exactly found. 

Rule. — For finding the square root for any number. 

Separate the given number into periods of two figures each, beginning at the unit places. 

Find the greater square in the left hand period, and place its root as the first figure of the root ; deduct 
its square from the first period, and to the remainder (if any), bring down the next period for a dividend. 

Divide this new dividend, omitting the right hand figure by double the first figure of the root, 
and place the quotient to the right of the first figure of the root, and also to the right of the partial 
divisor. Multiply the complete divisor by the last figure of the root, subtract the product from the 
dividend, and to the remainder bringdown the next period for a new dividend. 

Divide this new dividend, omitting the right hand figure by double the whole root so far found, 
and place the quotient to the right of the root, and also to the right of the partial divisor. Multiply 
the complete divisor by the last figure of the root, subtract product from dividend, and to the 
remainder bring down next period for a new dividend. 

Continue the operation as before until all periods are brought down. 

If the last remainder is zero, the given number is a perfect square. 

Example. — Find square root of 729. 



Vl I 29 = 27. 
4 



47)329 
329 

000 



Ansioer. — v / 729 _ = 27. 
Proof.— 27 X 27 = 729. 



Example. — Find square root of 148,225. 

|/14 I 82 I 25=385 
9 



68)582 
544 

765)3825 
3825 
Answer.- 



In dividing 58 by 6 the quotient is 9, but ff we add this to complete the divisor (6 and 9=69 X 9—621) 
the latter would become 69, which if multiplied by 9 would give 621, a number larger than the 
dividend 582, thus 8 in place of 9 must be used. 



l/l4 I 82 I 25=385. 



Proof.— 385X385=148,225. 



133 

Example. — Find square root of 89,401. 
j/ 8 | 94 | 01 = 299 
4 



49)494 

441 ~®«The division of 49 by 4 illustrates the same remarks as made in previous example. 



589)530 1 "®«The second remainder (53) is In this example greater than the divisor (49), a result not uncommon. 
5301 

Answer.— l/89401 = 299 Proof.— 299 X 299 = 89401. 

If the dividend at any time does not contain the complete divisor, place a zero in the root, and add 
the next period for a new dividend. 

If an integral number is not a perfect square and its root is to be found, annex as many periods 
of ciphers as there are to be decimal places in the root. The more periods of ciphers we use, the nearer 
approximation of the root is obtained. 

Example. — Find square root of 36469521. 

;/36 I 46 I 95 I 21=6039 
36 



1203) 4695 "USaHere in the process as occurs in the root, we annex the to the divisor 12, and 



3609 

12069)108621 
108621 



annex the next period to the corresponding dividend 



Answer.— l/36469521 = 6039. 

Square Root of Decimal Fractions. 

For finding the square root of a decimal fraction, make the decimal sucli that the index of its 
order is an even number ; also, since every period of two figures in the square equals one figure in the 
root, we must use as many periods in the decimal part of the square as there are to be decimals in the root. 

Example. — Find the square root of 0.139 to three places of decimals. 

1/0.13 I 90 I 00 = 0.372 + 

9 

Answer.— i/0.139 = 0.372 + 

67)490 

469 Proof.— 0.372 X 0.372 = 0.138384 

+ Remainder. 0.000616 



742)2100 



1484 0.139000 



616 
The square root of a decimal of an odd order is always a non-terminating decimal. See symbol + 
for it at the right hand of the decimal fraction of the square root in previous example. 

Example. — Find square root of 0.8436 to two places of decimals. 

1/0.84 I 36 = 0.91 + , or 0.92 
81 



181)336 
181 

155 



i34 

For this example the index is of an even order but not terminating; hence, symbol + at the right of 
the root. The last figure of the root is 1J5, which we may change to tU, as the remainder, 155, is 
more than J of the divisor, 181 ; thus: 



Answer. — 



1/0.8436 = 0.92. 

Square Root of Common Fractions. 



If we have to extract the square root of a common fraction, change the fraction to its lowest 
terms; if both terms are perfect squares, take the root of each ; if imperfect squares, change the fraction 
to a decimal, and find root as before. 

3 



Example. — \/ 9 



64 l 64 

Example. — Find square root of if 



Answer. — 



81 



27 



V 13 = 
9 

06)400 
396 



=3.60555 + 



7205)40000 
36025 



72105)397500 
360525 



721105)3697500 
3605525 



91975 



t/ 39 . 1/ 13 3.60555 „,.„. cino-ie 

1 "sT = v ~W 519615" or 3.60555-^5.1 961 o 



l/ 13 

j/IT 



v±. = 

64 



1 27 =5.19615 + 
25 



101)200 
101 



1029)9900 
9261 



10386)63900 
62316 



103921)158400 
103921 



1039225)5447900 
5196125 



251775 



36055500000-^-519615=0.69388 + 
3117690 



4878600 
4676535 

2020650 
1558845 

4618050 
4156920 

4611300 
4156920 

454380 



Answer. — 



l7 lT = 0.69388 



*35 



To prove the correctness of the above example, we will next find answer by changing the com- 
mon fraction f r, for which we have to find the square root in a decimal. 



= 39.0 -J- 81 = 0.481481 + 
324 



660 
648 

120 
81 



390 
324 

660 
648 



120 
81 

39 



lA).481481 
36 

129)1214 
1161 



0.69388 + 



1383)5381 
4149 



13868)123200 
110944 



13876«)1 225600 
1110144 



115456 



Answer. - 



j/ 39 = 0.69388 + being the same result as before. 



Another method of proving this example, is to find the square root out of the common fraction 
without reducing it to its lowest terms. If correct it will also demonstrate to the student that the 
reducing of a common fraction (for drawing the square root) to its lowest terms is correct, and either 
may be made use of or not. 



I :)'.) i/ 39 

81 - >/ir 



T /;39 = 6.24499 + 
36 



122) 300 
244 



1244) 5600 
4976 



12484) 62400 
49936 



124889) 1246400 
1124001 



1248989) 12239900 
11241901 



997999 



• 81 
81 



V\ 



6.24499 + 
9 



or 6.24499 --9 



9)6.24499=0.69388 + 
54 



84 
81 



34 

27 



79 

72 



79 

72 



Ansioer. — 



j/|9 = 0.69388+ or the same answer as already proven. 

Note. — This example will also demonstrate to the student that the reducing of a fraction to its 
lowest terms is not always the shortest course ; i. e., always examine in which fraction you find either 
one or both terms a perfect square ; 81 is a perfect square, whereas 27 is not. 



136 



Square Root of Mixed Numbers. 

If we have to extract the square root of a mixed number composed of an integer and a common 
fraction, change the same to its equivalent value either in an improper fraction, or a mixed number 
expressed by integer and decimals, and proceed as explained before. 

Example — Find square root of 911. a. Use decimals, b. Use improper fraction. 

1/911 = 36 -s- 64 = 0.5625; thus: 911 = 9.05625 and, 



y'9.56 I 25 
9 



64 
3.092+ 



609) 5625 
5481 



Answer. — 



6182) 14400 
12364 



a. 3.092+ is the square root of 911. 



20: :ii 



6. 



1/9H = , / w 

1/6TT2 = 24.739 + 
4 



l/ 612 
] /_ 64 



44)212 
176 



487) 3600 
3409 



l/64 = 8 
64 



l/9ff 


= 24.739 




8 


24.739 n- 8 


=3.092 + 


24 




73 




72 




19 





4943) 19100 
13929 



49469) 517100 
445201 



Answer. — b. 3.092 + is the square root of 911 



71899 



Table of Square Roots. 

(From 1 to 240.) 



Number 


Square Root. 


Number 


Square Root. 




Number 


Square Root. 


Number 


Square Root. 


1 


1. 0000 


19 


4-3589 


37 


6.0828 


75 


S.6603 


2 


1.4142 


20 


4.4721 




38 


6.1644 


80 


8-9443 


3 


1. 7321 


21 


45826 




39 


6.2450 


85 


9- 2 '95 


4 


2.0000 


22 


4.6904 




40 


6.3246 


90 


9.486S 


5 


2.2361 


23 


4-7958 




4i 


6.4031 


95 


9.7468 


6 


2-4495 


24 


4.8990 




42 


6.4807 


100 


10 0000 


7 


2.6458 


25 


5.0000 




43 


6-5574 


no 


10.4881 


8 


2.8284 


26 


5.0990 




44 


6.6332 


120 


io.9545 


9 


3.0000 


27 


5.1962 




45 


6.7082 


130 


11.4018 


10 


3-1623 


2S 


5-29I5 




46 


6.7S23 


140 


11.S322 


11 


3-3166 


29 


5-3 s 52 




47 


6.8557 


150 


12.2474 


12 


3-4641 


3° 


5-4772 




48 


6.9282 


160 


12.6491 


13 


3.6056 


3i 


55678 




49 


7.0000 


170 


13.0384 


14 


3-7417 


32 


5-6569 




5° 


7.0711 


180 


13.4164 


IS 


3-873° 


33 


5-7446 




55 


7.4162 


190 


13.7840 


16 


4.0000 


34 


5-8310 




60 


7.7460 


200 


14. 142 1 


17 


4-1231 


35 


5.9161 




65 


8.0623 


220 


M.8323 


IS 


4.2426 


36 


6.0000 




70 


8.3666 


240 


I5.49I9 



137 



CUBE ROOT. 

If a number is multiplied twice by itself, the product is called the cube of the number ; hence 216 
is the cube of 6, since 6 X 6=36x6=21 6. 

To extract the cube root of a given number, is to find one of the three factors producing. 
The symbol f placed before a given number, indicates that the cube root is wanted. 
There are two kinds of cubes, perfect cubes, being such which have an integer for its cube 
root; and imperfect cubes, containing a mixed number or fraction for its cube root, 
The following numbers of less than 1,000 are perfect cubes': 

8 is the cube of 2 ; 27 is the cube of 3 ; 64 is the cube of 4 ; 125 is the cube of 5 ; 
21 6 is the cube of 6 ; 343 is the cube of 7 ; 51 2 is the cube of 8 ; 729 is the cube of 9. 

Rule for Finding the Cube Root of a Given Number. 

Separate the numbers into periods of three figures each, beginning at units place. 

Fiud the greatest cube root of the left hand period and place its root at the right. Subtract 
the cube of this root from the left hand period, and to the remainder annex the next period for a new 
dividend. Next place three times the first figure of the root to the extreme left and three times the 
square of the first figure of the root, with two ciphers affixed to it, to the left near the dividend for a 
trial divisor. Divide the dividend by this trial divisor and put the quotient at the right of the extreme 
left situated number and also as the second figure of the root. 

Read extreme number and quotient as one number, and multiply the same by the seccnd figure 
of the root. Put this product below the trial divisor and add both ; multiply this sum again by the 
second figure of the root, and put product below the dividend. Next subtract, and if a remainder, 
annex a new period, form second extreme left number, second trial divisor and quotient (= next figure 
for root) and proceed as before. 



Specified figuring. 

4X4X4=64 
4X3=12 
4X4=16X3=48 (4800) 
128X8=1024 
5824X8=46592 



Example. — Find cube root of 110,592. 


(Cube root) 




f 110 1592 


= 48 


/Extreme leftA /,-, \ 
(, number ) (Quotient^ 

12 8 


4800 
1024 
5824 


64 

46592 
46592 

00000 





Answer.- 



V 110592 =48 



Proof.— 48X48=2304X48=110592 



If required to extract the cube root of a decimal fraction, divide the fraction also into periods of 
three figures each, commencing from the decimal point toward the right. If in the last period only 
one figure is left, annex two ciphers ; if two figures are left over annex one cipher, or in other words, 
the decimal fraction must be some multiple of 3. 

Example. — Find cube root of 553.387661. 



24 — 



246 — 



Answer- 



2 — 19200 
484 

19684 


553.387 1 66 
312 


41387 
39368 


1 — 2017200 
2461 


2019661 
2019661 

21. Pre 


209661 


f 553.387661=8. 



Specified figuring. 

8X8x8=512 
8x3=24 
8X8=64X3=192=(19200) 
242X2=484 
19684X2=39368 
82X3=246 
82X82=6724X3=20172 (2017200) 
2461X1=2461 
2019661X1 = 2019661 

8.21 X8.21=67.4041 X821=553.387661. 



138 

The cube root of a common fraction is found either by taking the cube roots of their terras or by 
reducing the common fraction to a decimal and proceeding as before. 



87 



Example. — Find cube root of , 

1^ 27 
1^343^ 



343 



#"27 = 3 



f 343 = 7 ; hence, 



27 
343 



f'27 
Or ' 343 



27 



change 343 to a decimal. (27 -=- 343 = 0.078717 + ) and find 
^0.078 I 717=0.42 + 



64 



12 — 



4800 
244 



14717 

10088 



Answer.— 
Proof. — 



5044 

4629 
0.42 + 
Change f to a decimal 3-f-7=0.42 + 



27 
343 



If we have to extract the cube root of a mixed number composed of an integer and common 
fraction, change the same to its equivalent value, either in an improper fraction or to a mixed number 
expressed by integer and decimals, and proceed as explained before. 

Table of Cube Roots. 
(From No. 2 to 50.) 



Number 


Cube Root. 


Number 


Cube Root. 


Number 


Cube Root. 


Number 


Cube Root. 


2 


1. 259921 


14 


2.410142 


26 


2.962496 


38 


3-36I975 


3 


1.442250 


15 


2.446212 


27 


3.000000 


39 


3.391211 


4 


1. 587401 


16 


2 519842 


28 


3.0365S9 


40 


3-4I9952 


5 


1.709976 


17 


2.571282 


29 


3-0723I7 


41 


3.448217 


6 


I.817121 


18 


2.620741 


30 


3.107232 


42 


3.476027 


7 


1. 91 2931 


19 


2.668402 


31 


3.141381 


43 


3 -50339s 


8 


2.000000 


20 


2.714418 


32 


3.174802 


44 


3-530348 


9 


2.0S0084 


21 


2.758924 


a 


3-207534 


45 


3-556893 


10 


2.154435 


22 


2.802039 


34 


3.239612 


46 


3.583048 


11 


2.223980 


23 


2.843867 


35 


3.271066 


47 


3.608826 


12 


2.289428 


24 


2.884499 


36 


3.301927 


48 


3634241 


13 


2.351335 


25 


2.924018 


37 


3.332222 


50 


3.684031 



AVERAGE AND PERCENTAGE. 

Average. — The average of two, three or more groups of numbers, is found by adding the numbers 
and dividing the sum by the number of groups used. 

Example. — Find average counts between 5 and 6-run yarn. 

5 

+ 6 



11-1-2=5} 



Answer. — 



5i-run. 



139 

Example. — Find average lengths of the following 5 pieces of cloth measuring respectively 42 yards, 
43 yards, 42 J yards, 41 f yards, 42 yards. 

42 
43 

42J 211i _=_ 5 _ 424. 

41f 
+ 42 



211J 

Answer. — The average length of the pieces of cloth in question, is 42^ yards. 

Percentage. — The symbol of percentage is f c , and reads per cent. For example: 32% white 
wool, reads 32 per cent, white wool. 

Per cent, means by the hundred, thus 32 f means 32 of every hundred. For example, we speak 
about a mixture of wool as gray mix, 40 °f white, the remainder black ; this means, that in even- 
hundred pounds wool there are forty pounds white, and sixty pounds black ; thus, if the lot of wool 
contains 450 lbs. wool, we used 180 lbs. white wool, 270 lbs. black wool. 

The Rate per cent, is the number of hundreths. 

The Base, is the number on which the percentage is estimated. 

Rule for finding the percentage : Multiply the base by the rate per cent. 

Example. — Find 12 per cent, of 4:10 lbs. 430 X tVs = 51.60. 

Answer. — 12 per cent, of 430 lbs. is 51.6 lbs. 

Proof.— 100 

12 and 88 per cent, of 430 = 430 X M = 378.40 

88+12 " of 430= U S «,J = 51.60 



430.00 lbs. 

Rule for finding the rate per cent. — Divide the percentage by the base. 

Example. — In a lot of wool of 400 lbs., there are 20 lbs. red wool and 380 lbs. black ; how many 
per cent, of red wool are used in this lot ? 

20 ~ 400 = &% = db. 

Answer. — 5 per cent, of red wool are used. 

Proof.— 400 X t§s = 20. 

Rule for finding the base. — Divide the percentage by the rate per cent. 

Example. — Received 138 lbs. of yarn marked as 8 percent, of the entire lot, how many pounds 
are in the whole lot? 

138 -+- ih = 1725 

Answer. — 1,725 lbs. yarn are in the entire lot of yarn. 

Proof— 138 h- 1725 = 0.08 = rb or 8 percent. 

RATIO. 

Ratio is the relation which one number (called the Antecedent) has to another number (called the 
Consequent) of the same kind, and is obtained by dividing the first by the second ; thus, the ratio of 
20 to 5 is 20h-5 or 4. 

The symbol of ratio is a colon (:), or the ratio may be written as a fraction ; thus, 20 to 5 
may be expressed either as 20: 5 or V. 

Both terms of a ratio are called a Couplet. 

Simple Ratio is the comparing of two numbers; for example, 18 : 6=3. 



140 

Compound Ratio is the comparison of the products of the corresponding terms of two or more 
ratios ; for example. — find the ratio of 2:4, 8:3, and 6 : 2. 

2 2 
2X8X6 JZX0X0. 2X2 4 , 




4X3X2 ;4X^X? 1 1 

Answer. — The simple ratio for example is 4 : 1 or 4. 

This example will give us the rule for changing a compound ratio to a simple ratio as follows: 
Multiply the antecedents together for a new antecedent, and the consequents for a new consequent, and 
reduce both to their lowest equivalent terms. 

As previously mentioned the ratio is a fraction, consequently its terms may be treated like those of 
a fraction, thus the following 

Principles of Ratio. 

The ratio is equal to the antecedent divided by the consequent. 

Multiplying the antecedent, multiplies the ratio. 

Multiplying the consequent, divides the ratio. 

Dividing the antecedent, divides the ratio. 

Dividing the consequent, multiplies the ratio. 

Multiplying or dividing the antecedent and consequent by the same number, does not effect the ratio. 

The product of two or more simple ratios, is the ratios of their products. 

PROPORTION. 

Proportion consists in the equality of two ratios, and is expressed by the symbol of equality (=) 
or the double colon ( : : ). 

Every proportion consists of two couplets, or four terms. For example. — 8 : 12 = 4 : G. 
The Antecedents are the first and third terms (8 and 4 in example). 
The Consequents are the second and last terms (12 and 6 in example). 
The Extremes are the first and last terms (8 and 6 in example). 
The Means are the second and third terms (12 and 4 in example.) 

Principles of Proportion. 

In a proportion the product of the means is equal to the product of the extremes. 

/ 12 X 4 = 48, product of the means. \ 

V 8 X 6 = 48, " " extremes. / 

The product of the extremes divided by either mean will give the other mean. 

f Product of > _j_ J One ) __ ' The other ) 
\ the extremes. J ' { mean, i ( mean. \ 

48 h- 12 = 4 

48 -h 4 = 12 

The product of the means divided by either extreme will give the other extreme. 

( Product } _^_ j One \ __ j The other "1 
| of means, f ' ( extreme. ) ( extreme. J 

48 ~ 8 = 6 

48 -f- 6 = 8 

There are two kinds of proportions ; single and compound proportion. 

Single proportion is an equality between two simple ratios, and is used to find the fourth term 
of a proportion where the other three terms are given. Two terms of the given three must be of the 
same kind and constitute a ratio ; and the third term (of the given three) must be of the same kind as 
the regular term, and constitute with it another ratio equal to the first. 



141 

Example. — 16,800 yards of yarn weigh 16 oz., find the weight of 3,900 yards. 

Yards. Yards. oz. oz. 

16800 : 3900 :: 16 : x 

( Product of ) _;_ ( The given ) __ ( The other ) 
} the means. J ' / extreme. J \ extreme, J 

3,900 X 16 = 62400 (product of the means). 62400 ■+- 16800 = 3[i? or 3*. 

Answer. — 3,900 yards weigh 3? oz. 

Proof.— 3,900 X 16 = 62,400 product of the means. 

16,800 X 3? = 62,400 " " extremes. 

(16,800 X35= 16,800 X " and 16,800 X 26 = 436,800 -j- 7 = 62,400.) 

A Compound Proportion is a proportion in which either one or both the ratios are compound. 

The rule for finding the answer is as follows : Place the number which is of the same kind or 
denomination as the answer required for the third term, form a ratio of each remaining pair of numbers 
of the same kind, the same as done in simple proportion, using each couplet without any reference to 
the other. Next, divide the product of the means by the product of the given extremes, and the 
quotient is the fourth term (= answer.) 

Example. — If weaving 1,536 yards of cloth on 8 looms in 12 days, how many yards will be 
woven on 34 looms in 16 days. 



(Looms to Looms.) 
8 : 34 

(Days to Days.) 

12 : 16 



( Yards to Yards. ) 
1,536 : x 



2 128 

16 X 34 X 1,536 ^ x or J^J<34XJM£ = 2 x 3 4 = 68 X 128 = 8704 
lz X8 J.^ Xp 

Answer. — 8,704 yards will be woven. 

Proof. — 8 looms 12 days = 8 X 12 = 96 looms running 1 day. 
1,536 yards are woven on 96 looms in one day ; thus, 1536 -5- 96 = 16 yards per day (per one loom). 
34 looms 16 days = 34 X 16 — 544 looms running 1 day; thus, 
544 X 16 = 8,704 yards will be woven either on 544 looms in 1 day, or on 34 looms in 16 days. 

Example. — If weaving 9,448 yards of cloth on 12 looms in 9 days, running the looms 10 hours 
per day, how many yards of cloth will 20 looms, running 11 hours per day, produce in 12 days. 

(Looms to Looms.) 



12 20 

(Days to Days.) 

9 : 12 
(Hours to Hours.) 
10 : 11 



(Yards to Yards.) 
9448 : x 



11 X 12 X 20 X 9448 

10 X 9 X 12 x 

2 
11 X W X ffi X 9448 11 X 2 X 9448 

;p x 9 x w 9 

11 X 2 = 22 X 9448 = 207856 
207856 -h 9 = 23095J 
Answer. — 23,0951 yds. will be produced. 



142 

Proof. — 12 looms, 9 days, 10 hours — 1,080 hours for one loom 
9,448 are woven in 1,080 hours on one loom ; thus, 
9,448 h- 1,080 = 8t§5 yds. per hour on one loom. 
20 looms, 11 hours, 12 days = 2,640 hours; thus, 

2,640 X 8iSs = 23,095i yds. will be woven either in 2,640 hours on one loom, or on 20 
looms running 11 hours per day in 12 days. 

ALLIGATION. 

Alligation has for its subject the mixing of articles of different value and different quantities. 

Alligation Medial. 

Rule. — Multiply each cpiantity by its value and divide the sum of the products by the sum of 
the quantities. 

Example. — Find the average value per pound for the following lot of wool containing mixed : 
380 lbs. @ 74/ per lb. 



400 " " 78 


» u 




200 " " 79 


u it 




20 " " 94 


a it 


380 X 74 = $281.20 

400 X 78 = 312.00 

200 X 79 = 158.00 

20 X 94 = 18.80 



770.00 -=- 1000 = 0.77 



1000 $770.00 

Answer. — The price of the mixture is 77/ per lb. 
Proof.— 77/ X 1000 = $770.00. 

Alligation Alternate. 

Pule. — Place the different values of the articles in question under each other, and the average rate 
wanted to the left of them. Next find the gain or loss on one unit of each, and use an additional 
portion (of one, two or more) of any that will make the gains balance the losses. 

Example. — How much of each kind of wool at respective values of 80/, 84/ and 98/, must be 
mixed to produce a mixture to sell at 88/ per lb. 



+ 8X1= 8 

-f 4X1 = + 4 = 12 gain 

— 10 X H = ~= 12 loss 



r 80 

88^ 84 

I 98 

Answer. — We must use 1 part wool from the lot (a) 80/. 
j « k a tt n a g^ 

ji a (< u a 11 a gg 



Proof— 

By alligation medial. 



3s parts, to produce a mixture to sell at 88/ per lb. 

1 lb. X 80/ 80/ 

1 lb. X 84 84 

lilbs. X 98 1171 



3i lbs. 281!/ and Sh lbs. X 88/ = also 281!/ 



To Find the Quantity of Each Kind Where the Quantity of One Kind or of the Mixture 

is Given. 

Example. — A manufacturer has 200 lbs. of wool of a value of 92 cents on hand which he wants 
to use up and produce a lot worth 80 cents per lb. He also has another large lot (2400 lbs.) of wool 



143 



worth 73 cents per lb. on hand. How much of the latter must he use to produce the result ; i. e., a 
mixture worth 80 cents per lb ? 



80 



(92 



\73 



— 12 X 200 = 2,400 loss. 
+ 7 X 342? = 2,400 gain. 

Answer. — He must mix 200 lbs. of the lot at 92 cents per lb. on hand and add 3425 lbs. of the 
lot at 73 cents per lb. to produce a mixture worth 80 cents per lb. 

Proof.— 200 lbs. X 92/ = $184.00 

342? lbs. X 73/ = 250.28* 



5425 



$434.28* 



and 542? lbs. @ 80/ = also $434.28*. 



U. S. MEASURES. 



Measures 


of Length. 


Avoirdupois Weight. 


12 inches (in 


) = 1 foot (ft.). 


16 drachms (dr.) 


= 1 ounce (oz.). 


3 feet 


= 1 yard (yd.). 


16 ounces 


= 1 pound (lb.). 


5 J yards 


= 1 rod (rd.). 


28 pounds \ 


= 1 quarter (qr.) 


40 rods 


= 1 furlong (fur.). 


4 quarters 


= 1 hundred weight(cwt.). 


8 furlongs 


= 1 mile (mi.). 


20 hundredweight 


= 1 ton. 


3 miles 


= 1 league (lea.). 


1 pound Avoirdupois 


= 7,000 grains, Troy. 


1760 yards 


= 1 mile. 


1 ounce " 


= 4371 


6 feet 


= 1 fathom. 











Measure of Capacity. 


e Measure. 




60 minims 


— 1 fluid drachm (fl. dr.) 


j.in.)=l square foot (sq 


ft.). 


8 fluid drachms 


= 1 fluid ounce (fl. oz.). 


= 1 " yard(sq 


yd.) 


20 fluid ounces 


= 1 pint (pt.). 


=1 " rod (sq. 


rd.). 


2 pints 


= 1 quart (qt.). 


= 1 rood (ro.). 




4 quarts 


= 1 gallon (gall.). 


= 1 acre (ac). 




2 gallons 


= 1 peck (pk.). 


=1 acre. 




4 pecks 


= 1 bushel (bus.). 


=1 square mile. 




8 bushels 


= 1 quarter (qr.). 






1 minim equals 


0.91 grain of water. 



9 " feet 
30J " yards 
40 " rods 

4 roods 
4840 square yards 
60 acres 



Cubic Measure. 

1728 cubic inches (cu. in.)=l cubic foot (cu. ft.). 
27 cubic feet =1 cubic yard (cu. yd.). 



Angle Measure. 

60 seconds (") are 1 minute ('). 
60 minutes " 1 degree (°). 

360 degrees " 1 circumference (C). 





Counting. 


Troy Weight. 


12 ones 


= 1 dozen (doz.). 


24 grains (gr.) = 1 pennyweight. 


12 dozen 


= 1 gross (gr.). 


20 pennyweights = 1 ounce. 


12 gross 


= 1 great gross (gr. grs.). 


12 ounces = 1 pound. 


20 ones 


= 1 score. 





Paper. 


Apothecaries' Weight. 


24 sheets = 1 quire. 


20 grains 


= 1 scruple. 


20 quires = 1 ream. 


3 scruples 


= 1 dram. 


2 reams = 1 bundle. 


8 drams 


= 1 ounce. 


5 bundles = 1 bale. 


12 ounces 


= 1 pound. 



144 



METRIC SYSTEM. 

The Metric System, of weights and measures, is formed upon the decimal scale, and has for its 
base a unit called a metre. 

Units. — The following are the different units with their English pronunciation : 

The Metre (meter). — The unit of the Metric Measure is (very nearly) the ten millionths part of 
a line drawn from the pole to the equator. 

The Litre (leeter). — The unit for all metric measures of capacity, dry or liquid, is a cube whose 
edge is the tenth of a metre (or one cubic decimetre). 

The Grram (gram). — The unit of the Metric Weights, is the weight of a cubic centimetre of 
distilled water at 4° centigrade. 

The Are (air). — is the unit for land measure. (It is a square 'whose sides are ten (10) metres.) 

The Stere (stair). — is the unit for solid or cubic measure. (It is a cube whose edge is one (1) metre.) 

Measure of Length. 



Metric Denominations and Values. 



Equivalent in Denominations used in the United States. 





Meters. 


Inches. 




Myriametre (Mm.) 


or ioooo equals 


393707.904 


6.21 miles. 


Kilometre (Km.) 


" iooo " 


39370.7904 = 


3.280 ft. loin 


Hectometre (Hm.) 


" IOO " 


3937-O79 4 = 


328 ft. 1 in. 


Decametre (Dm.) 


" IO " 


393-707904 = 


32.8 ft. 


Metre (M.) 


" 1 " 


39-37O7904. — 


3.28 ft. almost 40 in. 


Decimetre (dm.) 


" O.I " 


3.937079O = 


almost 4 in. 


Centimetre (cm.) 


" O.OI " 


O-3937079 




Millimetre (mm.) 


" O.OOI " 


O.O393707 





TJ. S. Measures. 


Metric Measure. 


U. S. Measures 


Metric Measures. 


1 Inch = 
I Yard = 


2.5399 Centimeters. 
0.9143 Metre. 


1 Foot — 

1 Mile = 


3 0479 Decimetres. 
1609.32 Metres. 



Measure of Capacity. 



Metric Denominations and Values. 



Myrialitre (Ml.) 





1 0000 litres 


' = IO 


cubic meters 


= 2200.9670 


gallons 


Kilolitre (Kl.) 


= 


1000 


= I 


' ' metre 


— 220.0967 


" 


Hectolitre (HI ) 


= 


100 " 


= IOO 


" decimetres 


— 22.0097 


Cl 


Decalitre (Dl.) 


= 


10 


= IO 


1 ' decimetres 


— 2.2009 


" 


Litre (L.) 


■= 


1 


= I 


" decimetre 


1.7608 


pints 


Decilitre (dl.) 


= 


0.1 


= IOO 


' ' centimetres 


= 6.1027 


cubic inches 


Centilitre (cl.) 


= 


O.OI " 


= IO 


" centimetres 


= 0.61027 


" " 


Millilitre (ml.) 


— 


O.OOI " 


= I 


" centimetre 


= 0.061 





Equivalent in United States 
Denominations. 



Measure of Weight. 





Metric Denominations and Values. 




Equivalent in United States 
Denom iuations . 


Myriagram (Mg ) 
Kilogram (Kg. ) 


— 1 0000 grams. 


= 10 cu. decimetres of 


water 


22 046 lbs., Avoir. 


= IOOO " 


= 1 " 


(i 


2.204 " " 


Hectogram (Hg.) 


— IOO " 


= 100 " centimetres " 




3.527 oz., " 


Decagram (Dg.) 


= IO 


= 10 " 


" 


i54-3 2 3 grams. 


Gram (G.) 


— I ■ " 


= 1 " 




15432 


Decigram (dg.) 


= 0.1 


= 100 " millimetres " 


< r 


1-543 " 


Centigram (eg ) 


= O.OI " 


= 10 " 




154 " 


Miligram (mg.) 


= O.OOI " 


= 1 " " " 


(I 


0.015 " 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



INSINGER & CO. # 



^tUt e 



rs of 




Textile Machinery 

Nos. 10 to 30 East Canal Street, 

(Rear 1033 Noith Front Street) 

PHILADELPHIA, PA. 



Insinger & Cn.'s so Space, Circular-Shuttle 
Narrow Fabric Loom. 



This cut represents our 

Fly 

Shuttle 

Looms, 

for weaving narrow fabrics such as 

Tapes, 

Prussian Bindings, 

Etc. 

These Looms are 56 spaces (or 
can be made any number of spaces) 
and make 175 revolutions per 
minute, one person attending to 
two Looms at the same time. 
Our improved shuttle motion will 
allow any number of picks per 
minute, and is smooth and sure 
in its action. These same Looms 
can have rack and pinion shutt'es 
for finer grades of work. 



Looms for Tape, Binding, Ribbon, Goring, Suspender, 

Fringe, etc. 
Jacquard Machines for Shafts and Harness Looms. 
Our new double-acting side Jacquard is specially adapted 

for fast running looms. 
Patented change motions for 2, 3, 4 or 6 banks of shuttles 

and positive in its action at any speed. 
Lathes and Battons, straight or circular shuttles, 2, 3 or 

4 banks. 
Patent Quill Winders for shuttle quills. 




ADVERTISEMENT. 




PHILADELPHIA, PA., 



fc 



Manufacturers of 



FOR WORKING IRON 

. . AND STEEL 



O O 



]V£ACHINE 

TOOLS 

High Speed Traveling Cranes and Swing Cranes. 

Shafting, 
Pulleys, 
Hangers, 



hko. Couplings, 




Etc., 



Estimates Furnished for Work Delivered 
at flill and Erected in Position Ready for the Belts. 

Mechanical 



The VICARS' 



Stokers 



For Automatically Feeding Fuel to Boilers, = = = 

- - . - with entire absence of Smoke. 

Improved Injectors, Turntables, 

Testing Machines, Etc. 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



George Draper & Sons 








HOPEDALE 



MASS • • 



Are Sole Agents. 




For the following 

Corporations 

And their Products 



Sawyer Spindle Co. 



DRAPER 

RABBETH 

WHITIN 

SHERMAN 

McMULLAN 



Hopedale Machine Co. 



Detail of Hopper Mechanism op the Northrop I,oom 

(other parts of loom erased) 

Shows fresh bobbin being inserted iu shuttle with empty bobbin 

falling into box 



TWISTERS 
WARPERS 
SPOOLERS 
REELS 

Dutcher Temple Co. 

TEMPLES for all Goods 

Northrop Loom Co. 

PATENT LOOMS 
With Automatic Filling 
Changers and Warp Stop 
Motion 



Geo- 



W 



aP?X 



^.a. DOUBLE FLANGED SPINNING RINGS 
- G>Ol\& RHOADES CHANDLER SEPARATORS 
C^^-—^~ PATENT CHAIN DYEING PROCESS 

BOBBIN HOLDERS, LEVER SCREWS 
COTTON BALE SHEARS, Etc., Etc., Etc. 



Address all communications 

_to us personally 



GEO. DRAPER & SONS 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



HOWKRD St BULLOUGH, 

AMERICAN MACHINE COMPANY, Ltd. 

PAWTUCKET, R. I. 

j*-ic< u „-« Cotton Machinery 




COMBINED SELF-FEEDING OPENERS 
BREAKER AND FINISHER LAPPERS 

All made from new models, with 
many patented improvements, giving 
better and evener work. 



NEW PATENT 

revolving 
Flat 

CARD 

The simplest and 
most accurate of # 
all cards 



Greatest Production 

Best Quality of Carding 

Least Waste 



ELECTRIC 



SLUBBING 




STOP=MOTION 

DRAWING 

FRAMES 



The quality of the 
sliver produced by 
these Machines can- 
not be surpassed. 
Waste, Sing'e and 
Roller Laps are pre- 
vented, production in- 
creased, and great 
saving effected. 



INTERMEDIATE an° 
ROVING FRAMES 



N 



Patented Differen-ial Motion, 
0\\7 Arrangement of Cord Drums, 
^ *^ System of Balance i Ton or B 




System of Balancrg Top or Bobbin Rail etc. 

Our Machines contain many Valuable Patented Improvements. 

-All parts are made by special tools, and are exact duplicates. 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



Pljins, Estimates *ks 
catalogues oieerfvilly 

FSIRNLfHED 




<+*&++ 



COHPflNT 



nANUFACTURERS OF THE 



Sturtevant Blowers, Etc. 

BOSTON, MASS., U. S. A. 

THC,STQRTCVdNT 5TSTm 

For Heating and Ventilating Textile Hills. 
For Drying and Handling Raw Stock. 

For Drying, Tentering and Oxidizing Plants. 

For Removing Steam from Dye Houses, Slashers, 
Dry Cans, Etc., Etc. 

For Removing waste from French Nappers and 
Collecting same. 

For Forced or Induced Draft on Boiler Plants. 

^Special glowers and Engines for Every D u ty- 





B. F. Sturtevant Company, 



34 Oliver Street, Boston, Mass. 

131 Iaberty Street, New York, N. Y. 

135 North "Third Street, Philadelphia, Pa. 

16 South Canal Street, Chicago, 111. 



75 Queen Victoria Street, London, E. C. Eug. 
31 West Nile Street, Glasgow, Scotland, 
87 Zimmerstrasse, Berlin, Germany. 
2 Klungsholmstorg, Stockholm, Sweden. 



XV 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



IMPORTER OF 



WILLIAM FIRTH, 
Textile 



220 



Devonshire Street, 



jyjachinery 



boston, mass. 



SOLE IMPORTER Of 



Hetherington's Cotton Carding and Combing 

flachines, Drawing, Roving Frames and Mules. 



ALSO 



Pamsden 3 ros - & St e Ph enson Patent Worsted JVl acn ' ner y f° r 
5pinning on gnglish and prench Systems, patent Wool \\fasher. 



T. C. ENTWISTLE. 



MANUFACTURERS OF 



Patent Warping, 
Balling as 



Beaming 



flachines 



. . ALSO . . 

All kinds of Common Expansion 

Combs for 
Warpers, Beamers and Slashers, 

AND 

Traverse Wheel Card 

Grinders for American or English 

Cards. 

164 Worthen St., Lowell, flass. 




'1 ;' 



U 



is? 



D. H. WILSON & CO., 

Coppersmiths, Plumbers, 
a Steam and Gas Fitters. 



Manufacturers of 

SLASHER CYLINDERS, SILK AND DRESSER 

CYLINDERS, COLOR AND DTE KETTLES. 

All Kinds of Copper Work for Mills. 

279-283 Dutton St., Lowell, Mass. 



ADVERTISEMENT 



. WINDLE, 




^^,c,. 



CLOTH r T 

FINISHING 

MACHINERY, 

Friction Clutch Pulleys and 
Cut=off Couplings, 

32 VINE STREET, 

WORCESTER, MASS. 



The illustration represents J. E. Windle's 
. Latest Improved Machine for doub- 
ling and rolling all kinds of either 
Cotton or Woolen Goods. 

For Circulars, prices, etc , address the 
Patentee and Manufacturer, 

J. E. WINDLE, 

"Worcester, Mass. 



Parks & Woolson Machine Co. 

CLOTH FINISHING MACHINERY. 

Send lor New Illustrated Catalogue. 

SPRINGFIELD, yERMONT. 

FULLING MILLS. CLOTH WASHERS. 

SOAPING AND WETTING MACHINES. 

WOOL SCOURERS. 

POWER TRANSMISSION MACHINERY wit 2c a c l o l mpanim EN ts. 

James Hunter Machine Co., 

■ NORTH ADAMS, MASS. 



XVll 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



The Acme Microscopes 




Acme No. 4 Microscope. 



are famous for perfect fitting 
and finish ; we make them suit- 
able for every sort of textile 
work. We will send our cata- 
logue, and will write, if desired, 
making suggestions as to the 
instrument best suited to in- 
dividual needs. 

We also sell thread counters 
aud other magnifying glasses, 
design paper and colors, and all 
scientific instruments and ap- 
paratus, which we manufacture 
or import. 



QUEEN & CO., 

Seientifie Instrument JBakers, 

1010 Chestnut St., 
PHILADELPHIA. 



Hurd & Crehore, 
Crehore & Nea). 
Lemnel Crehore, 
Lemuel Crehore & Sou, 
(Geo. C. Crehore,) 
Lemuel Crehore & Co., 
(C. F. Crehore.) 
C. F. Crehore, 
C. F. Crehore <fc Son, 
(F. ML Crehore,) 



1835. 

I'M. 
1845. 

\ 1854. 

I 1867. 

1868. 

I 1883. 



C. F. CREHORE & SON, 



Established 1825 



MANUFACTURERS OF 

Press Papers 



AND 



«%^%.-%"%.V» 



Cards for 
Jacquard Looms 

87 Milk Street, 
hi BOSTON, MASS. 



Elliot Cloth Folder 
and^jvieasurer 

FOR COTTON AND GINGHAM MILLS, BLEACHERIES, 
PRINT WORKS, BAG MFRS., Etc. 

MANUFACTURED Br 

ELLIOT & HALL, 

54 Hermon Street, 

Send for Circu.ar. WORCESTER, MASS. 

TO. A. COULD, 




Top roll and Clearer Coverer and Leather worker. 
Cots made to order for Spinning Mills Cotton or Worsted. 

2207 East York Street, 

KENSINGTON, PHILADELPHIA, PA. 
GEORGE L. SCHOFIELD, 

Dealer in New and Second-Hand 

Cotton and Woolen Machinery 

Shafting, Pulleys, Belting, Pipes, Tools, etc., 

I23 North Front St, Philadelphia. 

THOMAS STEWART, 

MANUFACTURER OP 

STEEL LOOM REEDS, 

AND DEALER IN 

Caipet and Cotton Mill Supplies, 

312 MASTER ST., PHILADELPHIA. 

HENRY TROEMNER, 

710 Market St., Philadelphia, Pa., 

MAKER OF 




Fine Scales 
and Weights 



For Accurate Weighing. 

Special Scales and Weights J"5££ii°^ r - 

PRICE LIST ON APPLICATION. 



XV111 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



J pTSON f^ ACHINE (^ Q. 



HANUFACTURERS OF 



Cotton Openers v Lappers 
Wool Washers 



Dryers and Carbonizers 



LOWELL, MASS. 




, t///r/jvsfti£j/ASS.l/SA: 



XIX 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



GEORGE R. K. SMITH. 



FRANKLIN S. SMITH. 



STANTON M. SMITH. 



^y* v -*#*- & c 

466, 468, 470 Washington St., 



NEW YORK. 



SOAPS 



Of 

Every 
Description 



flSR^^-'JJSBB. 




For 

Textile 

Manufacturers. 



"THE BEST IS GOOD ENOUGH." 



Our Granulated Carbonate of Soda 

Is the Highest Grade ot Concentrated Sal-soda on the Market. 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



"52"ddnsdcket Press 

Machine ^ 1 _. ^a. 

OTDDNSDCKET, R. I., U. 5. A. 

MANUFACTURERS OF 

The C e l e frrated C^y M acn ine Fly F rames 
Patent Continuous Steam Cloth Press 



1883 PATTERN. 



The Fisher Patent Card Feed- 

for Wool, Worsted, Jute, Etc. 



cs 






00 



<n 



3£ 
O 



O 




33 
O 



Cfl 

> 

v> 

-a 
m 
o 

> 



Cloth Trimming and Inspecting flachines 
Atlantic Fancy Cotton Looms 

The Chapman Pulley and Coupling Forcing Hachine 
Shafting, Pulleys, Couplings, Etc. 

IRON AND BRASS CASTINGS OF ANY DESCRIPTION 

See Our New Continuous Wool Spinning flachine 

JUST OUT 



DfficE and Works, WDonsnckEt, R. I v IT. 5. R. 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



Globe Machine Works, 

FRANKFORD, PA. 



MAKERS OF 




The Denn Warpers, 



Linking Warpers, 



Balling Warpers, 



Section Beam Warpers, 



Beam Warpers, 



From ioo ends to 3200 ends for 
COTTON, WOOLEN, SILK, 

PLUSH, ELASTIC WEB, 

SUSPENDER WORK. 



Electrical Stop Motions Applied to all Creels. 

Charles li. Schnitzler, 

PATENTEE AND SOLE MANUFACTURER OF 

The Pneumatic Conveyor 

For the handling of Wool and Cotton Stock, Rags, 
Excelsior, Jute and all kinds of Fibrous Material, 
wet or dry. Also Spool Elevators. Steam Heating 
and Ventilating and Mill Work generally. Blower 
and Fan Work a specialty. 




Satisfaction Guaranteed. 

215 N. Second St., Philadelphia, Pa. 



HOWSON & HOWSON, 

<?ouQseIlor5 
at Cavu, 
Solieitor5 
of patents, 

119 South Fourth St., Philadelphia. 

38 Park Row, New York. 

918 F Street, Washington, D. C. 



Patent Law Business in the Courts and 
before the Patent Office. 



UNITED STATES HJ4D FOREIGN PATENTS 

SECURED AND TRADEMARKS 

REGISTERED. 






/, 




a-ot; ^c«^ €?,<?z 



'<?z€c iyy<3t'ui 



46 tyVaxf/i <jZ'<wri'f tslre&t, 



XX11 



ADVERTISI'MKNT 



The American Drosophore Company, 

Drosophore Humidifier 



MAKERS OF THE 




FOR HUMIDIFYING 



COTTON, WORSTED, SILK »° FLAX MILLS. 



This system has been introduced into many of the largest 
woolen, cotton, silk and worsted mi'ls in this and foreign 
countries, and used to the greatest advantage. It produces 
from 40 to 50 per cent, more moisture than any other similar 
device to purify the air and to remove all danger from elec- 
tricity generating in certain departments of the mill. The 
device hangs down about a foot from the ceiling, and cannot 
in any way interfere with any other part of the equipment 
of the mill. 

One of the Humidifiers will give the requisite moisture to 
22,000 cubic feet of air. The superiority and popularity of 
this system is proved by the large number in use. 

References from the leading Textile Mills where this sys- 
tem is in use will be furnished by William Firth, who is 
Manager of this Company. 



220 Devonshire Street, Boston, Mass. 

Works: 8 Medford Street, Boston. 



Correspondence Solicited. 



AUGUST STOIZ. 




Write for prices before ordering elsewhere. 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



Beoazet fleddle Company, Ltd. 

SOLE MANUFACTURERS OF THE 



LATEST... 
PATENTED 



WIRE HEDDLES, 



DARBY, DEL. CO., PA. 

Malcolm Mills Co., 

FRANKFORD, PA. 

Office, 229 Chestnut St., 



Philadelphia. 

MANUFACTURERS OF 

NOVELTY YARNS, BOUCLES, 
SPIRALS, KNOTS AND 
FANCY TWISTS, IN WORSTED, 
MOHAIR, COTTON AND SILK. 

cedarTanks, VATs,¥YrruBs,Trc. 





GEORGE WOOLFORD, 

2240 and 2244 North Ninth Street, 

PHILlADELtPHIH. 



LORD'S 

BOILER CLEANSING 

COMPOUNDS, 

MANUFACTURED EXCLUSIVELY BY 

GEO. W. LORD, 

ANALYTICAL AND MANUFACTURING CHEMIST, 

316 UNION ST., PHILADELPHIA, PA. 

Established 18 6S. 

twos n. HALL, 

Cedar Vat tP Tank Factory 

North Second St., above Cambria, Pliila., Pa. 

All kinds of TUBS 
and TANKS for Dyers, 
Bleachers, Factories, etc., 

Made at the Shortest Notice and 
on the most Reasonable Terms. 




Down Town Office, 

140 Chestnut Street, cor. Second. 

Hours : From 12 to 1. 



Fleming & Chapin, 

Tapes, Braids, Lace Edgings. 

TRIMMINGS FOR MANUFACTURERS A SPECIALTY. 

AGENTS FOR 

— HADLEY COMPANY'S 

pipe Qottoi) Yarps, U/arps, Jtyreads. 

Nos. 30 to 100 In single, 3 &. 3 or niore ply. 

215 Church Street, 

PHILiADELjPHIH, ph. 



FREDERICK JONES. 



GEO. H. QILBERT. 



FREDERICK JONES & CO. 

. "*"T \ textile Design Papers 

58 North Fourth Street, Philadelphia. 

WAVING the experience and facilities for making Design Papers in all sizes, we are enabled to supply 
manufacturers and public designers with the best at the lowest rates. Special sizes made to 
order. Will be pleased to quote you prices for any quantity or size } cu may need. 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



LIST OP THE LEADING BOOKS ON DYEING, PRINTING, FINISHING, ETC., FOB. SALE BY 



E. A. POSSELT, Publisher, 2152 

(We only handle modern an 

MANUAL OF DYEING, by Knecht, Rawson, 
and Loewenthal. 

In 3 volumes 910 pages,(6 x 9 inches) 116 illustrations 
and 144 dyed samples of wool and cotton fabrics on 24 
plates. Cloth Bound, Price $15.00. 

Abstract of the Contents:— Chapter I. Theory of Dyeing. 
II. Chemical Technology of the Textile Fibres. III. Water. 
IV. Washing and Bleaching. V. Acids, Alkalies, Mordants, &c. 
VI. Natural Coloring Matters. VII. Artificial Organic Coloring 
Matters. VIII. Mineral Colors. IX. Machinery used in dyeing. 

X. Investigation into the Tinctorial Properties of Coloring Matters. 

XI. Analysis and Valuation of Materials Used in Dyeing. Appendix. 



THE DYEING OF TEXTILE FABRICS, by 
J. J. Hummel, F. C.S., Professor and Director of the 
Dyeing Department of the Yorkshire College, Leeds, 
England. 

Complete in one volume containing 534 pages, (6j4 s: 
\% inches) with 97 diagrams for illustrating the various 
Fibres and the latest and most improved Machinery as 
used in the different processes of Dyeing, also Scouring, 
Bleaching, Finishing, etc. Third edition, Cloth Bound, 
Price $2.00. 

Table of Contents i-Cotton^ Flax, Jute and China Grass. 
Wool. Silk. Cotton Bleaching. Lmen Bleaching. Wool Scouring 
and Bleaching. Silk Scouring and Bleaching. Water. About 
Dyeing. Use of Mordants. Notes on Cotton, Wool and Silk Dye- 
ing. Blue Coloring Matters. Red Coloring Matters. Yellow Color- 
ing Matters. Aniline Coloring Matters. Quiuoline Coloring 
Matters. Phenol Coloring Matters. AzoColoring Matters. Anthra- 
cene Coloring Matters. Artificial Coloring Matters Containing 
Sulphur. Chrome Yellow. Iron Buff. Manganese Brown. Prussian 
Blue. Fabrics of Cotton and Wool. Method of Devising Experi- 
ments in Dyeing. E=tiination of the Value of Coloring Matters. 
The Detection of Colors on Dyed Fabrics. Tables of Color Tests. 
Tables of Thermometer Scales, Weights and Measures, &c. 

THE DYEING AND BLEACHING OF 
WOOL, SILK, COTTON, FLA.X, HEMP, CHINA 
GRASS, ETC., by Antonio Sansone, Late Direc- 
tor of the Department of. Dyeing at the Manchester 
Technical school. Chemist to the Actiengesellschaft fuer 
Anilin Fabrikation, in Berlin Germany. Atpresent Head 
Chemist to the dyeworks of the Cotonificio Cantoni, in 
Legnano, Italy. 

Volume I. 240 pages (Sl4 x 5^ inches), Text with 
72 illustrations of Machinery on plates. 

Volume II. 221 dyed patterns on 29 plates. Both 
volumes, Cloth Bound, Price $8 50. 

Table of Contents: 

Chap. I. History of Dyeing. 

Chap. II. History of Coal Tar Colors. 

Chap. III. General Characteristics of Fibres. 

Chap. IV. Testing Coloring Matters by Dyeing. 

Chap. V. COTTON. BleachingCottou. Cotton Dyeing, Loose 
Cotton, Yarn and Cloth. Basic Aniline Colors. Acid Coal Tar Colors. 
The Kosines. Azo Colors. New Class Azo Colors. Alizarine Colors. 
Dyewood Extract Colors. Dyeing and Finishing Black Italian 
Cotton Cloth. Other Dyewood Colors. Browns, Yellows, Reds, etc. 
Indigo Blues. 

Chap. VI. LINEN. Jute, China, Grass, etc. 

Chap. VII. WOOL. Scouring, Washing. Bleaching. Dye- 
ing, Mechanical Dyeing Processes. Basic. Acid. Alkaline Coal 
Tar Colors Alizarines. Dyeing Wool with Natural OrgauicColor- 
ing Matters. Indigo. Dyewoods. One Dip Dyes. 

Chap VIII. SILK. Anilines. Alizarine Colors on Silk. 
Weighting of Silk. 

Chap. IX. Alizarine Colors in Wool Dyeing. Various New 
Dyes tuffs. Preparing Soaps for Wool Scourings. Gambine. New 
Series of Colors Directly Fixed on the Fibre. Stibine, Etc. Saluffer 
Cudbear and Archill. 

Hermite Bleaching Process. Cochineal Carmine. Black with 
Dinitrosoresorcine, etc. Benzidine Colors. Paraphenglene Blue. 
Rhodomine. 

China Grass or Rhea Ramine Fibre. 

Mordanting Wool and Wool Dyeing. 

Chap. X. Machinery Employed in Dyeing. 

Chap. XI. Explanation to the Dyed Patterns. 

T%vo Hundred and Twenty-one Patterns on Twenty- 
nine Plates form the second volume. 



THE HISTORY OP WOOL AND WOOL 
COMBING, by James Burnley, London, England. 

American Bound Edition, published by E. A. Posselt. 
Complete in one volume, containing 487 pages (6x9 
inches'), with numerous illustrations and portraits. 
Cloth Bound, Price $8.40. 



North 21st St., Philadelphia, Pa. 

d no out of date publications.) 

RECENT PROGRESS IN DYEING AND 
OALIOO PRINTING, by Antonio Sansone, 136 pages 
of reading matter (8yi x s'/i inches) with 5 plates of 
Machinery, and 28 plates of Dyed Samples, Cloth Bound, 
Price $5.50 

Table of Contents : — Changes in Bleaching. Changes in 
Calico Printing. Further developments in Wool Printing. Changes 
in Cotton Dyeing. Aniline Black. Substantive Coloring Matters. 

Dixotized Colors. Basic Series. Acid Colors. Milling Colors 
for Wool, the Alizarine Colors. 

Natural Organic Dyestuffs. Chemistry of Cotton Dyeing. 
Cop Dyeing. Cotton Cloth and Yarn Dyeing. Paper Dyeing. 
Leather Dyeing. Skin Dyeing. Tin Foil Dyeing. Flower Dyeing. 
Lake Manufacture. Dyestuff Manufactures. 

Countries engaged in Dyeing and Calico Printing. On the 
fastness of Colors to Light, Soap Alkalies, Acids, &c. Resistance 
to Acids to Bleaching, Aniline Black. 

Substantive Colors. 

The Titan Colors. 

The Diamine Colors. 

Diazotizing. Developing. 

SILK DYEING PRINTING AND FINISHING 
by Geo. H. Hurst, P. C. S., London, England. 

Cloth Bound, 226 pages (7 x 4)4 inches) and xi 
plates containing 66 Patterns of Dyed Silk Yarns and 
Fabrics. Price of Book "With Sample Plates $200. 

Table of Contents. 

Chap. I. Origin, Structure, Composition and Properties of 
Mori, Tussah and Wild Silks. 

Chap. II. Boiling off and Bleaching of Silks. 

Chap III. Dyeing Blacks on Silk, Logwood Blacks, Tannin 
Blacks, Aniline and other Coal Tar Blacks. 

Chap. IV. Dyeing of Fancy Colors on Silk, Weighting of 
Silks, Reds, Oranges, Yellows, Blues, Greens, Browns, Violets, etc., 
on Silk. 

Chap. V. Dyeing Mixed Silk Fabrics. 

Chap. VI. Silk Printing. 

Chap. VII. Silk Dyeing and Finishing Machinery, Yarn 
Dyeing, Piece Dyeing, Silk Finishing Machinery, Silk Finishing. 

Chap. VIII, Examination and Assaying of Raw and Dyed 
Silks. 

Appendix of 170 Recipes for Dyeing and Printing Silks, 
and 66_Patterns. 

COLOR a Scientific and Technical Manual Treating 
of the Optical Principles, Artistic Laws and Technical 
Details Governing the Use of Colors in Various Arts, 
by Prof. A. H. Church, M. A. Oxon., F. C.S., F. I. C, 
Professor of Chemistry in the Royal Academy of Arts, 
Loudon, England. 

189 pages, (7x5 inches,) Cloth Bound, with 3 1 illustra- 
tions and 6 colored plates. Price $1.50. 



COLOR m "WOVEN DESIGN, by R. Beaumont, 
Member of the Society of Arts, Professor and Director of 
the Textile Department of the Yorkshire College, Leeds, 
England. 

This work is most elegantly gotten up, containing on 
32 special plates, 126 colored illustrations of various 
diagrams, illustrating blending and mixing of colors ; 
Fancy Yarns, Fancy Cassimeres, Worsteds, Trouserings, 
Coatings, Suitings, Ladies' Dress Goods, Cloakings, also 
all different kinds of Fancy Cotton and Silk Fabrics. 
Besides said 126 colored illustrations, the work contains 
203 illustrations, executed in black and white, of Weaves, 
and corresponding Color-effects in fabrics, etc. All these 
illustrations are accompanied by 440 pages, (7 '2x5 inches, ) 
of reading matter. Cloth Bound, Price, $7.50. 



THE FINISHING OF COTTON GOODS, by 

Joseph D^pierre, Chemist, Officer D'Acad^mie, etc. 
Member of the Soci£t£s Industrielles of Mulhouse and 
Rouen. Corresponding Member of the Soci£t6 Industri- 
elle of Amiens Member of the Chemical Society of 
Paris, of the Industrial Society of Vienna, of the Chemi- 
cal Society of Prag, etc., etc. 

Translated from the latest French Edition 459 
pages (9^ x 6>4 inches) Reading matter, numerous plates 
containing illustrations of Machinery and several hun- 
dred Samples of Cloth to explain the Various Finishes. 
Cloth Bound. Price $12. OO. 



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Posselt's Private School of Textile Design 

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A private tuition (the Student being all day under the supervision of practical designers) will give results 
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Course of instruction laid out to suit the wants of each pupil, he being either Manufacturer, Overseer, 
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country, and this with the highest satisfaction on their part. 

The largest collection of technical works and periodicals, as published in Europe and this country, in our 
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The course of freehand drawing is designed with a special reference to practical designing for Jacquard 
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For further particulars address the principal, 

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Department of Textile Terms Edited by E. A. Posselt. Many valuable Scientific Color Formulas, Tables, Plates, etc. 



THE TEXTILE COLORIST, PHILADELPHIA, says: 
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" An important feature for the scientific reader as well as of special 
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of several hundred shades and tones, Many thousand samples 
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THE TEXTILE RECORD, 

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PAPERS ON PRACTICAL PROCESSES FOR THE WOOLEN MANUFACTURER, 

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NOW ON ITS SIXTH EDITION. 

THE MOST COMPLETE TREATISE ON DESIGNING AND WEAVING 
OF ALL TEXTILE FABRICS EVER PUBLISHED. 

Technology of Textile Design, 

Being a Practical Treatise on the Construction and Application of Weaves 

for all Textile Fabrics, with minute reference to the latest Inventions 

for Weaving. Containing also an Appendix showing the 

Analysis and giving the Calculations necessary for the 

Manufacture of the various Textile Fabrics. 

BY 

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ACCOMPANIED BY OVER lOOO ILLUSTRATIONS- 



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ABSTRACT OF THE CONTENTS. 



Division of Textile Fabrics According to their Construction. 



SQUARED DESIGNING PAPER FOR THE DIFFERENT TEXTILE FABRICS. 

Purpose of the Squared Designing Paper— Practical Use of the Heavy Squares in Designing Paper— Selection of Designing 
Paper for Textile Fabrics. 

WEAVES FOR TEXTILE FABRICS AND THE METHODS OF THEIR CONSTRUCTION. 

FOUNDATION WEAVES. 

THE PLAIN OR COTTON WEAVE. 

Construction— Influence of the Twist ol the Yarn— Fancy Effects Produced by Using Threads of Different Sizes ; or by the 
Combination of Two or More Colors. 

TWILLS. 

Construction— Influence of the Twist of the Yarn Upon the Various Textures— Division of Twill-Weaves— Combination o( 
Two or More Colors for Producing Different Effects. 

SATINS. 

Methods and Rules for Constructing the Various Satin-Weaves — Influence of the Twist of the Yarn Upon Fabrics Interlaced 
with Satin- Weaves — Arrangement of Satins for Special Fabrics. 

DRAWING-IN OF THE WARP IN THE HARNESS. 

Description of the Operation — Principle of a Drawing-in Draft — Methods Used for Preparing Drawing-in Drafts — Division ol 
Drawing-in Drafts— STRAIGHT DRAWING-IN DRAFTS— FANCY DRAWING-IN DRAFTS— .4. Broken Draws— B. Point 
Draws — C. Section-Arrangement Draws (ist Plain, 2d Double)— D. Skip Draws — E. Mixed or Cross-Draws — Other Points a 
Drawing-in Draft May Require in Addition to the Indications for Draftingon Certain Harnesses — DRAFTING OF DRAWING- 
IN DRAFTS FROM WEAVES— PREPARING THE HARNESS-CHAIN BY FANCY DRAWING-IN DRAFTS— RULES 
FOR ESTIMATING THE NUMBER OF HEDDLES REQUIRED FOR EACH HARNESS— a. For Straight Drawing-in 
Drafts—*. For the Various Fancy Drawing-in Drafts-THE REED. AND RULES FOR CALCULATIONS. 

(Continued on next Page ) 



DERIVATIVE WEAVES. 

FROM THE PLAIN OR COTTON WEAVE. 

I. Common Rib-Weaves— II. Common Basket-Weaves— III. Fancy Rib-Weaves— IV. Fancy Basket-Weaves— V. Figured 
Rib-Weaves— Effects Produced by Using Two or More Colors in Warp and Filling of Fabrics Interlaced Upon Rib- and 
Basket-Weaves— VI. Oblique Rib-Weaves— VII. Combination of Common and Oblique Rib-Weaves. 

FROM THE REGULAR TWILL WEAVE. 

I. Broken-Twills — Using Two or More Colors for Producing Various Effects Upon Fabrics Interlaced with Broken-Twills — 

II. Steep-Twils of 63° Grading or Diagonals— III. Steep-Twills of 70 Grading— IV. Steep-Twills having a Grading of 75°— 
V. Reclining-Twills or Twills having a 27 Grading— VI. Curved-Twills — VII. Skip-Twills— VIII. Combination of Two Dif- 
ferent Common Twills to Steep-Twills of 63 Grading— IX. Corkscrew-Twills— .4. Derived from One Regular Twill— B. From 
Two Regular Twills— C. Figuring with the Filling Upon the Face — D. Curved Corkscrew-Twills— E. Corkscrew Weaves 
composed of Warp and Filling Twills—/". Corkscrew Weaves Figured by the Warp— G. Corkscrew Weaves in which the 
Face and Back of the Fabric is pruduced by the Filling— X. Entwining-Twills— XI. Twills having Double Twill.Effects— 
XII. Twill Weaves Producing Checkerboard Effects— XIII. Combination of Warp and Filling Effects from a 45 Twill Weave 
after a Given Motive— XIV. Fancy Twill Weaves— XV. Pointed-Twills. 

DERIVATIVE WEAVES FROM SATINS. 

I. Double Satins— II. Granite Weaves. 

Combination of Different Systems of Weaves into One Weave— Figured Effects Produced by the Fancy Arrangement (of Two 
or More Colors) Upon Fabrics Interlaced with Derivative Weaves. 
WEAVES FOR SINGLE CLOTH FABRICS OF A SPECIAL CONSTRUCTION AND PECULIAR 
CHARACTER. 

Honeycomb Weaves— Imitation Gauze (Plain and Figured)— COMBINATION OF WEAVES FOR FABRICS CON- 
STRUCTED WITH ONE SYSTEM OF WARP AND TWO SYSTEMS OF FILLING— Combining Two Systems of Filling 
to One Kind of Warp for Increasing the Bulk of a Fabric— Figuring with Extra Filling Upon the Face of Fabrics Interlaced 
with Their Own Warp and Filling— Principles of Swivel Weaving— Explanation and Illustration of a Swivel Loom— COMBI- 
NATION OF WEAVES FOR FABRICS CONSTRUCTED WITH TWO SYSTEMS OF WARP AND ONE SYSTEM 
OF FILLING— Two Systems of Warp and One System of Filling for Producing Double-Faced Fabrics— Using an Extra Warp 
as Backing for Heavy-Weight Worsted and Woolen Fabrics— Figuring with Extra Warp Upon the Face of Fabrics Otherwise 
Interlaced with the Regular Warp and Filling— Principles of Lappet Weaving— Explanations and Illustrations of the Lappet 
Loom-TRICOT WEAVES. 

DOUBLE CLOTH. 

Description and Object of Making Double Cloth Fabrics— Rules for Designing Double Cloth Fabrics— DOUBLE CLOTH 
WEAVES DESIGNED WITH THE FOLLOWING PROPORTION OF FACE AND BACK IN WARP AND FILLING— 
A. Warp and Filling, One End Face to Alternate with One End Back — B. Warp Ont Face One Back, Filling Two Face One 
Back— C. Warp Two Face One Back, Filling One Face One Back— D. Warp and Filling Two Face One Back— E. Warp and 
Filling Two Face Two Back — F. Warp Two Face Two Back, Filling Two Face One Back — G. Warp and Filling Three Face 
One Back— DOUBLE CLOTH WEAVING WITHOUT STITCHING BOTH CLOTHS-Principle of Constructing Seam- 
less Bags, Hose and Similar Fabrics-DOUBLE CLOTH FABRICS IN WHICH THE DESIGN IS PRODUCED BY THE 
STITCHING BEING VISIBLE UPON THE FACE OF THE FABRIC-Worsted Coatings— Matelasses-Quilts (Plain 
Pique Fabrics and Figured Pique Fabrics)-RIB FABRICS-THREE-PLY FABRICS— Four-Ply Fabrics, Etc. 

PILE FABRICS. 
PILE FABRICS PRODUCED BY THE FILLING. 

Velveteens, Fustians, Corduroys— Chinchillas, Whitneys, Plain and Figured— Chenille for the Manufacture of Curtains and 

Rugs— Chenille Cutting Machine Illustrated and Explained. 

CHENILLE AS PRODUCED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF FRINGES. 

PILE FABRICS IN WHICH THE PILE IS PRODUCED BY A SEPARATE WARP IN ADDITION TO 
THE GROUND WARP. 

Description of the Structure of Warp Pile Fabrics — Terry and Velvet Pile — Explanation and Illustrations of the Method of 
Operation Necessary in Producing Warp Pile Fabrics— VELVET AND PLUSH FABRICS— FIGURED VELVET-ASTRA- 
KHANS, Their Various Methods of Construction — Illustrations and Explanations of Machines for Curling Warp-Threads for 
Astrakhans— TAPESTRY CARPETS— BRUSSELS CARPETS— DOUBLE-FACED CARPETS, in which the Pile is Produced 
by Inserting a Special Heavy Filling in Place of a Wire. 

DOUBLE. PILE FABRICS. 

Principle of their Construction— Methods of Operation for Producing Double Pile Fabrics and Cutting the Same on the Loom 
During Weaving — Illustration of the Machine and Explanation of the Method of Operation for Cutting Double-Pile Fabrics 
After Leaving the Loom — Weaving Two, Three or More Narrow V/idths of Double-Pile Fabrics At Once — "Let-Off" 
and "Take-Up" Motions of the Pile Warp in Double-Pile Fabrics— Double-Pile Fabrics as Produced with a Proportional 
Higher Pile— Figured Double-Pile Fabrics. 

TERRY PILE FABRICS, IN WHICH THE PILE IS PRODUCED DURING WEAVING WITHOUT 
THE AID OF WIRES AS USED IN THE MANUFACTURE OF TURKISH TOWELINGS AND 
SIMILAR FABRICS. 

PILE FABRICS AND REGULAR DOUBLE CLOTH FABRICS OF A SPECIAL METHOD OF CON- 
STRUCTION. 
Smyrna Carpets and Rugs— Imitation Turkey Carpets — Two-Ply Ingrain Carpet. 

GAUZE FABRICS. 

Principle of Construction of Gauze Fabrics — Combination of Plain and Gauze Weaving — Jacquanl Gauze — Imitation of the 
Regular Doup — Cross-Weaving, as Used for Chenille and Loom for Producing the Same Illustrated and Explained— Cross- 
Weaving, as Used for the Manufacture of Filtering Bags— Cross-Weaving for Inside Fast Selvages of Fabrics Produced in Two 
or More Widths on the Loom. 
THE JACQUARD MACHINE as Necessary for Figured Work— GOBELIN TAPESTRY. 

A P PEN DDL ' _____ 

xxxiv 



BY THE SAME AUTHOR 



THE JACQUARD MACHINE 

ANALYZED AND EXPLAINED: 

With an Appendix on the Preparation ot Jacquard Cards & Practical Hints to Learners of Jacqnard Designing 



WITH 230 ILLUSTRATIONS AND NUMEROUS DIAGRAMS 

Bv K. A. POSSELiT, Expert in Textile Designing niid^Maiiufacturlng i Principal of Poseelt's Private School of Textile 
Design, and Editor of The Textile It r cord of America : Author and Pnbl.sl.er of '« Technology 
& of Textile Design " "The Structure of Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics," etc., etc. 

This book, quarto, handsomely hound in cloth, will he mailed, postage prepaid, to any address, npon receipt of Price, $3. 

ABSTRACT OK TfTE CONTENTS- 



History of the Jacquard Machine. 

The Jacquard Machine— General Arrangement and Appli- 
cation. 
Illustration of the different parts of the Jacquard Machine 

— Method of Operation, etc. 
The Jacquard Harness — The Comber-boards. 
Tying-up of Jacquard Harness. 

I.— Straight-through Tie-up. 

II. — Straight-through Tie-up for Repeated Effects, in one 
Repeat of the Design. 
III. — Straight-through Tie-up of Jacquard Loom, having 

Front Harness attached. 
IV.— Centre Tie-up. 

V- — Straight-through and Point Tie-ups Combined. 
VI.— Straight-through Tie-up in Two Sections. 
VII. — Tying-up a Jacquard Harness for Figuring Part of 
the Design with an Extra Warp. 



VIII.— Straight-through Tie-up in Three Sections. 
IX.— Point Tie-up in Three Sections. 
X.— Combination Tie-up in Two Sections. 
XI. — Straight-through Tie-up in Four Sections. 
XII.— Tying-up of Jacquard Looms with Compound Har- 
ness attached. 
XIII. — Tying-up Jacquard Looms for Gauze Fabrics. 

Modifications of the Single Lift Jacquard Machine. 

I. — Double Lift Single Cylinder Jacquard Machine. 
II.— Double Lift Double Cylinder Jacquard Machine. 
III.— Substitution of Tail-cords for Hooks. 

Tying-up of Jacquard Harness for Two-ply Ingrain Carpet 

General Description of the Construction ofthe Fabric. 
Straight-through Tie-up. 
Point Tie-up. 



APPENDIX. 



Preparing and Stamping of Jacquard Cards. 
Dobby Card-Punching Machines. 
Piano Card-Slamping Machines. 
Stamping of Cards. 



Repeating Jacquard Cards by the Positive Actiot, 
Repeater. 
Lacing of Jacquard Cards. 

Lacing of Jacquard Cards by Hand. 
Lacing of Jacquard Cards by Machine. 



PRACTICAL HINTS TO LEARNERS OF JACQUARD DESIGNING-. 



Squared Designing Paper for the different Textile Fabrics 
executed on the Jacquard Machine. 
Selection of the Proper Brush for the different U De- 
signing Papers. 
Colors used for Painting Textile Designs. 
Preservation of Textile Designs 
Sketching of Designs for Textile Fabrics to be executed on 
the Jacquard Machine. 
Methods of Setting the Figures. 
Size of Sketch Required. 

Enlarging and Reducing Figures for Sketches. 
Transferring of the Sketch to the Squared Designing 
Paper. 



Glossary 



Outlining in Squares. 

Rules for Outlining in Squares Inside or Outside the 
Drawing Outline. 

Illustration of a Sketch— Outling on n Paper— Finished 
Design — Fabric Sample (Single Cloth). 

Designs for Damask Fabrics to be executed on a Jac- 
quard Loom, with Compound Harness attached. 

Designs for Two-ply Ingrain Carpet. 

Designs for Dressgoods Figured with Extra Warp. 

Designs for Figured Pile Fabrics. 

The Shading of Textile Fabrics by the Weave. 



ABSTRACT OF COMMENTS OF THE LEADING TEXTILE PRESS ON THIS WORK. 

It is a thoroughly practical work, written by one who is master ofthe business in all its various branches. 

Wade's Fibre and Fabric, Boston 

The work is well gotten up, and with its explanatory illustrations, cannot fail to be of great service both to 
the student and the advanced weaver. 

The Manufacturers' Review and Industrial Record, New York. 
This work has long been a serious need in textile mills, and amongst designers and card stampers, and we 
predict for it a wide circulation. Tributes to its value have reached us from most prominent manufactureis in 
the country. 

The Philadelphia Carpet Trade. 
The most important addition ever made on this side ofthe Atlantic to the literature of the textile industry, etc. 

Textile Record of America, Philadelphia. 
It is a great work, and is a credit to the author, etc., etc. 

The Bulletin of the Philadelphia Textile Association, now the Manufacturer. 

It is the only work in the English language that treats exclusively on the Jacquard Machine. No designer 
v ho wishes to be up in his vocation should be without it. 

Boston Journal of Commerce. 

». IC.ic.k~ by Mail. Free of Postage, to all Paris of the 'World.— Remittances should he made by Drafts or P. O. Orders, 
or in Registered Letters. Not responsible for money lost, when otherwise sent. 

ADDRESS ALE ORDERS TC 

M. A. POSSELT, Publisher, 

2152 N. Twenty-first Street, Philadelphia, Pa. 



THE LEADING WORK ON TEXTILE MANUFACTURING. 

The Structure of Fibres,Yarns $ Fabrics 

Being a Practical Treatise for the Use of All Persons Employed In the Manufacture of Textile Fabrics. 

by 

E. A. POSSELT. 

ACCOMPANIED BY OVER 400 ILLUSTRATIONS. 
Two Yolnmes Bouud in One. Quarto, Handsomely Bound in Cloth. Price, Fire Dollars including: Expressage. 



THE MOST IMPORTANT WORK ON 

The Structure of Cotton, Wool, Silk, Flax, Jute and Ramie Fibres, 
The Preparatory Processes these Fibres are subjected to previously to 
The Picking, Carding, Combing, Drawing, Spinning, and 
Calculations required by the Manufacturers. 

This work, as well as the other books written and published by Mr. Posselt, have been sold by the thousands 
amongst our Manufacturers, Overseers and Operators. 

They also sold extensively in England, Germany, France, Austria, Russia, Brazil, Japan, etc. 
They are used as Text-Books in the various Textile Schools. 



What Practical Manufacturers have to say on the Books: 



SAXON WORSTED COMPANY, Franklin, Mass. 
Mr. E. A. Posselt, Dear Sir : — You may please send to us five 
(5) more copies of your new book, "The Structure of Fibres, 
Yams and Fabrics." This will make six copies iu all , for which 
we will send you check. We trust the work will meet with the 
sale which it deserves. The composition of such an extensive 
and yet accurate work certainly earns for you the thanks and 
appreciation of all interested in textile industries 

Yours, etc , I. G. Ladd, Treasurer. 



FROM CAXIAS, BRAZIL- 
Mr. E. A. Posselt, Dear Sir .-—Have received the books 
" Structure of Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics," " Technology of Tex- 
tile Design," "The Jacquard Machine," and am much pleased 
with them. Yours truly, Robert D. Wall 



BONAPARTE WOOLEN MILL, Bonaparte, Iowa. 
E. A. Posselt, Esq , Dear Sir .-—Your book, " The Structure of 
Fibres, Yarns aud Fabrics," received 4th inst., and have enclosed 
draft $10.00 on New York in payment of same. I have delayed 
for a few days before writing you in order to give myself time to 
look through the work. I must say that I have always received 
from you sterling value for my money, and your present work is 
no exception to the rule. It more than meets my expectations, 
and I shall find it very helpful to myself It will be simply in- 
valuable to the young man learning the art of woolen manufact- 
ure, who has to rely on himself too often aud get littleencourage- 
meut from those around him To such a one your work will prove 
a veritable mine of information. Wishing you much success, I 
am, yours truly, W. R. Dredge, Supt. 

THE KNOX-HILL COMPANY, Warsaw, Ills. 
Mr. E- A. Posselt, D>ar Sir;— Your work " Technology of 
Textile Design ' received, and I am very much pleased with it. 
I expected it would be good but it goes beyond my anticipation. 
Yours truly, J. W. Wilson, Supt. 



RAY'S WOOLEN COMPANY, Ftauklin, Mass. 
E. A. Posselt, 'Esq,., Dear Sir;- I have purchased more than 
$2= 00 worth of boofes on manufacturing before purchasing yours, 
and can truthfully say "Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics," is worth 
double all the others are. I am yours, Joseph aldrich. 

MASCOMA FLANNEL COMPANY. 

E- A. Posselt, Dear Sir ,-— Enclosed please find check for pay- 
ment of enclosed bill for copy " Structure of Fibres, Yarns and 
Fabrics." Was much pl.ased with book, it is weli worth the 
money to an experieuced mauufactuier, and many times its cost 
to beginners iu the art of manufacturing If I could have had 
such a work in my younger days of manufacturing, it would have 
learned me many points that I had to work out by study obser- 
vation and experience, attended with more or less mistakes on 
my part aud expenses otherwise. M. E. George, Supt. 



JAMESTOWN, N. Y. 
Mr. E. A. Posselt, Dear Sir;— Please find enclosed money 
order . . (for books send) I am well pleased with the books. 
The book " Technology of Textile Design," and the book "Struct- 
ure of Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics," I would not be without for 
their weight in gold. Please acknowledge receipt and oblige 

Yours truly, T. D. Douglass 



MILLBURY SCOURING COMPANY, West Millbury, Mass. 
MR. E- A Posselt, Dear Sir ;— Enclosed check in payment of 
book,'' Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics " Thank you for terms, etc. 
Your book " Technology of Textile Design " was the instruction 
book at the Lowell School of Design and therefore have one on 
hand, which is quite inexhaustive and its own talker. 

Yours, W. W. Windle. 



EATON RAPIDS WOOLEN MILLS, Eaton Rapids, Mich. 

E. A. Posselt, Dear Sir;—1 have further examined the hooks 
purchased of you, " Structure of Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics " and 

Technology of Textile Design,'' and find them just what I 
wanted. Yours truly, Wm A Horner. 



MANUFACTURERS OF WOOLEN HOSIERY, Milroy, Pa. 
Many thauks for the superb book you sent on Textile Fibres 
and their manipulations. It is excellent. Yours, etc., 

Thompson Bros. 



HAMILTON, ONT., CANADA. 
Mr. E. A. Posselt, Dear Sir ;— When I was living in Magog, 
Quebec, I sent for two of your books. I am well pleased with 
them and would not be without them for ten times the money 
Harry Marsh, 143 Pkton Street, East. 



BRIDGEPORT SILK COMPANY, Bridgeport, Conn. 
E. A. Posselt, Esq., Dear Sir ;— Please find enclosed amount of 
bill for last publication sent me. J now have all your works up 
to date, and sincerely wish you luck with your last exellent 
effort. What next ? Send circular. 

Respectfully. F. M. Patterson. 



THE ACME FELT COMPANY, Albany, N. Y. 
Mr. E. A. Posselt, Dear Sir-— Book, "Structure of Fibres, 
Yarns and Fabrics," received. Very much pleased with it. 

Yours respectfully, The Acme Felt Company. - 



PROVIDENCE WORSTED MILLS, Providence, R. I. 
My Dear Posselt :— I have your latest work, " Structure of 
Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics," and I assume, in my opinion, it is 
the best work of the kind ever published. H. Sheridan. 



ADDRESS ALL ORDERS FOR BOOKS TO E. A. POSSELT, PUBLISHER, 2152 1V0PTH 21st ST., PHTLA. 



XXX VI 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



First American Builders^Uil 
Revolving Flat Carding Engine. 

Pettee Machine Works, 

Newton upper Falls, Mass., U. S. A. 




Sales over ^QQQ 



QUR SPECIALTIES- 




REVOLVING FLAT CARDS, 
RAILWAY HEADS, 
DRAWING FRAMES. 



SEND FOR DESCRIPTIVE CATALOGUE. 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



The £)anforth 




MANUFACTURERS OF 

pelting of 
Superior 

Quality 



MILLER SPROWLES. 



THOS. R. HOUSEHAN, M. E. 



sprowles & 
Houseman 

Reliance Hachine Works 

(j eneral [ | achinists 

AND F^ 

~ p^ngineers 



Corner - 



APRONS FOR 
WORSTED AND SILK MACHINERY, 

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RUB APRONS, LACE LEATHER AND 

BELTING SUPPLIES 

MANUFACTORY . . . 

221 Chestnut Street 

. . . PHILADELPHIA, PA. 



Hedge and grown 5 ts ' F rar| kford, 



PHILADELPHIA, PA. 



Patented Dyeing Machinery 

General Mill Work and Gearing, 

Calico Printing Machines, and all Machinery 

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Foot and Power Presses. 

Special Tools built in the best manner. 

Estimates cheerfully given. 



ESTABLISHED I86 0. 



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L1NG0ES,MAILS, 

SHUTTLES.QUILLS 

PICKERS AND 
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SUPPLIES. FULL 
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DARD JACQUARD 
THREADS 





REEDS & HARNESS 
6 JACQUARD 

HARNESS BUILDING 
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6 BROAD SILK MAN- 
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A SPECIALTY. COR- 
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30-36 Hamilton Ave., 



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xxxviii 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



■ 1 





f tie Keystone Universal jjapping Machine, 



MANUFACTURED BY 



RICHARD C. BORCHERS & CO., 

Keystone Clutch and Machine Works, 

17DB and 171D Bermantawn Ave., PHILADELPHIA, PA. 

These Machines are perfectly universal, adapted for all kinds of 
woven goods of cotton, wool, or both, with or without face finish. 
All adjustments necessary for the different kinds of goods can be 
made instantaneously, while the machine is running. 



WE ALSO MANUFACTURE 



The Keystone Measuring ^Marking Machine, 

For single width goods, which measures the goods exactly, and prints 
the successive numbers of the yards on the back to avoid claims 
for shortage. 

T WRITE FOR PARTICULARS. 



ADVERTISEMENT. 



u 



se 



the 



"Halton" Jacquard,^: 



SINGLE 

LIFT, 

DOUBLE 

LIFT, 

RISE AND 
FALL, 

CROSS 
BORDER. 




'600" Single Lift with INDEPENDENT CYLINDER MOTION. 



CUMBER= 
BOARDS, 

LINGOES, 

HARNESS 
TWINES, 



MAILS, 



Etc. 



The Original "Fine Index" Machine. 

THOMAS HALTON, 



2627=29 Mutter Street, lm% 



low 
Avenue. 



PHILADELPHIA, PA. 



EVAN ARTHUR LEIGH, 

(Successor to E. A. Leigh & Co.) 

35 and 36 Mason Building, BOSTON, MA55. 

Cotton, Woolen and Worsted Machinery 

of the \ a test and Most Improved Patterns. 

PLATT BROS. & CO.'S IMPROVED COTTON, WOOLEN AND WORSTED MACHINERY. 

Special attention called to their Patent Preparing, Opening and Lapping Machinery, Revolving Flat 

Carding Engines. Improved Machinery for Waste, and for Preparing, Combing, Roving and 

Spinning Worsted on the French System. 
JOHN MASON'S DRAWING, SLUBBING, INTERMEDIATE AND ROVING FRAMES. 
CURTIS SONS & CO.'S "PARR'S" PATENT SELF-ACTING MULES, for both coarse and fine counts. 
COMBING MACHINES for either long or short staple cotton, with all latest improvements, for j'/i" or \o'/i" wide 

laps, with or without double nip. 
JOS. SYKES BROS.' CARD CLOTHING FOR COTTON, wi.h hardened and tempered plough ground polished 

steel wire. 
.IAS. CRITCHLEY & SONS' CARD CLOTHING FOR WOOLEN AND WORSTED. 
MATHER & PLATT'S BLEACHING, DYEING AND FINISHING MACHINERY FOB COTTON GOODS. 
MORITZ JAHR'S SPECIAL MACHINERY FOR FINISHING WOOLEN AND WORSTED GOODS. 
WOOL WASHING AND DRYING MACHINERY. 

BLACKBURN, ATTENBOROUGH & SONS' HOSIERY MACHINERY for Knitting all classes of Hosiery Goods. 
GARNETT'S PATENT MACHINERY for Opening Woolen and Worsted Waste. 
DRONSFIELD'S PATENT GRINDING ROLLERS, CARD MOUNTING MACHINES AND EMERY FILLETTING 

always in stock. 
TATE'S PATENT ELECTRICAL APPARATUS FOR STOPPING STEAM ENGINES OR TURBINES from any part 

of the works ; also automatically stopping same from increased speed resulting from the breaking 

of main driving belts, gearing, etc. 



138 91 




'%;ii\/ %?!?•> f \^f' : y %$Sp> *°X'^vj 

?F % * c/ % "^^V"* %/v3P*V* \'^^\^ %/'Swv^ %/l 



